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Travel

Taiwan’s Shilin Night Market

Updated 8:50 PM EST, Tue December 22, 2020
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<strong>Taiwan's night market culture:</strong> Taiwan is famous for its night markets, but scholars and experts fear that the "real" ones are disappearing. Pictured is Shilin Night Market, one of the biggest markets in Taipei. Click on for more photos of  the market during its glory days.
Taiwan's night market culture: Taiwan is famous for its night markets, but scholars and experts fear that the "real" ones are disappearing. Pictured is Shilin Night Market, one of the biggest markets in Taipei. Click on for more photos of the market during its glory days.
Clarissa Wei/CNN
<strong>Shilin Night Market, 1980: </strong>In the 1980s and 1990s, Shilin was one of Taipei's most popular night markets. It was packed to the brim with vendors slinging out hot bites of stinky tofu, barbecue squid and copious amounts of grilled meats on skewers.
Shilin Night Market, 1980: In the 1980s and 1990s, Shilin was one of Taipei's most popular night markets. It was packed to the brim with vendors slinging out hot bites of stinky tofu, barbecue squid and copious amounts of grilled meats on skewers.
courtesy of Jason Cheung
<strong>A typical 1990 scene: </strong>Taiwan's markets were often an informal congregation of peddlers that once upon a time relied on the magnetism of temples, where people would regularly congregate.
A typical 1990 scene: Taiwan's markets were often an informal congregation of peddlers that once upon a time relied on the magnetism of temples, where people would regularly congregate.
courtesy of Jason Cheung
<strong>The golden days: </strong>"From a business perspective, night markets were at their most prosperous in the 80s and up until the mid-90s," says Dr. Shuenn-Der Yu, whose doctoral thesis focused on Taiwanese night markets.
The golden days: "From a business perspective, night markets were at their most prosperous in the 80s and up until the mid-90s," says Dr. Shuenn-Der Yu, whose doctoral thesis focused on Taiwanese night markets.
courtesy of Jason Cheung
<strong>Shilin Market, 1990: </strong>Markets were once the apex of economic activity in Taiwan's cities, a way for low-income urban street vendors to provide goods at low prices.
Shilin Market, 1990: Markets were once the apex of economic activity in Taiwan's cities, a way for low-income urban street vendors to provide goods at low prices.
courtesy of Jason Cheung
<strong>End of an era: </strong>Taipei culture writer Jason Cheung, who has been meticulously documenting the night market's history on his blog, is convinced the glory days are long gone. This image was captured by Cheung in 1990, when Shilin Market was a vibrant center of activity.
End of an era: Taipei culture writer Jason Cheung, who has been meticulously documenting the night market's history on his blog, is convinced the glory days are long gone. This image was captured by Cheung in 1990, when Shilin Market was a vibrant center of activity.
courtesy of Jason Cheung
<strong>The new Shilin Market: </strong>In recent years, hygiene and fire safety concerns prompted authorities to relocate and reconstruct night markets multiple times. Here's the entrance of Shilin Market in 2014.
The new Shilin Market: In recent years, hygiene and fire safety concerns prompted authorities to relocate and reconstruct night markets multiple times. Here's the entrance of Shilin Market in 2014.
courtesy of Jason Cheung
<strong>Fading in popularity: </strong>On a typical Friday night, the market is at less than half its usual capacity. Even though Taiwan surpassed 250 consecutive days without a locally transmitted case of Covid-19, Taiwan markets like Shilin are heavily dependent on international tourists.
Fading in popularity: On a typical Friday night, the market is at less than half its usual capacity. Even though Taiwan surpassed 250 consecutive days without a locally transmitted case of Covid-19, Taiwan markets like Shilin are heavily dependent on international tourists.
Clarissa Wei/CNN
<strong>Mr. Li at Shilin Market: </strong>"There are no more people. Back then you wouldn't even be able to interview me. Business was great," says Shilin Night Market vendor Mr. Li, pictured.
Mr. Li at Shilin Market: "There are no more people. Back then you wouldn't even be able to interview me. Business was great," says Shilin Night Market vendor Mr. Li, pictured.
Clarissa Wei/CNN
<strong>No more tourists: </strong>One of the problems is the market's reliance on tourists. "Places like Ningxia Night Market are okay because they cater to locals. Shilin isn't like that. And rent is too expensive," says Li, whose family has been selling Taiwanese spring rolls at Shilin for 47 years.
No more tourists: One of the problems is the market's reliance on tourists. "Places like Ningxia Night Market are okay because they cater to locals. Shilin isn't like that. And rent is too expensive," says Li, whose family has been selling Taiwanese spring rolls at Shilin for 47 years.
Clarissa Wei/CNN
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