
Skiing fantasy land: Levi in Lapland is Finland's biggest and most popular ski resort. It's reputed to have some of the cleanest air in the inhabited world -- on a cold day, it sparkles.

Airport access: The ski slopes of Levi mountain are only 15 minutes' drive from Kittilä Airport, where planes land on icy-looking runways.

How cold?: Minus 3 C is actually mild for February in Levi. Temperatures can plunge to 17 degrees below. If you haven't packed for the weather, it's possible to hire Arctic-proof boots, bodysuits and gloves.

Magical light: Levi is relentlessly beautiful though. Even when the winter sun vanishes, overhead floodlights bathe the slopes in an atmospheric glow.

Snow beasts: Nightfall is when the snow creatures come out to play. In low light, snow-caked trees and shrubs take on a life of their own, resembling giant gnomes, humans or other weird things.

They're coming to get you: The final ski run of the night goes a little faster with these snowy creatures looming over you.

An empty world: While most of Europe's ski slopes are crowded during peak vacation periods, Levi's are mostly wide open. It does get busy with holidaying Finns, but not much.

Time for a cold one: No crowds means no long lines for the mountaintop bars and restaurants. This little place probably sells the coolest beer in Lapland.

Smallest, coldest room: Best not to drink too much up here. It's a lonely, freezing walk to the mountaintop bathrooms.

Ski jumps: Levi is perfect for the intermediate skiier, but there are tougher slopes and a few fun areas to practice tricks.

Way up: Lift lines are typically short or non-existent. While there are a few chairlifts and gondolas, most ascents of the mountain involve long drags on T-bars or button lifts.

Snow-caked: Pretty much everything gets covered in snow on Levi mountain. Though relatively low altitude, its location 170 kilometers north of the Arctic Circle ensure snow right up until May.

Snow signs: Those ski maps can get hard to read under all that snow and frost. Levi isn't huge, though. It's hard to get lost, even if you head into the trees for some slalom action.

Warming Teepee: It may be cold outside, but it's pretty snug inside the warming teepees or huts that dot the slopes of Levi. Barbecuing sausages over these communal fires is a thing.

Changing weather: Though the mountain is often clad in mist, when the sun shines it brings out a new magic to the landscape. Especially when viewed through orange ski goggles.

Great views: The largest mountain for miles around in the flat forests of Finnish Lapland, Levi offers great views over the surrounding countryside.

Snow mobile safaris: Downhill skiing and snowboarding aren't the only attractions in Levi. There are extensive cross-country ski trails, reindeer and husky-sled ride and snowmobile safaris.

On the snow road: The area around Levi is geared up for snowmobile outings, with dedicated routes out of town, across frozen lakes and rivers.

Watch out: The snowmobile routes are clearly marked and carry speed limit signposts and the occasional alarming warning.

Nemo the reindeer: One highlight of a snowmobile safari is a visit to a reindeer farm run by indigenous Sami people, who herd reindeer across Lapland.

Reindeer kiss: Antlered animals are a way of life in Lapland. Among the indigenous Sami people, wealth is often judged in terms of reindeer numbers. If you can bring yourself to eat them after kissing them, they're widely used in local cuisine.

Luvattumma Ice Hotel: The family-run and built Luvattumma Ice Hotel is built every winter from frozen river ice. Its interior is sculpted using a snow cannon.

Cold nights: The ice hotel has a bar and a wedding chapel. There's even a bridal suite. Guests keep warm in extra-thick sleeping bags, or retreat to the fireside of the hotel's traditional restaurant.

Aurora Borealis: The best views can be at night though. Thanks to its Arctic location, Levi is a prime viewing spot for the Northern Lights.