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Norway’s Hurtigruten line takes passengers beyond the Arctic Circle

By Daniel Allen, for CNN
Updated 10:08 AM EST, Thu January 14, 2016
Decked out in their distinctive red, white and black livery, Hurtigruten's well-equipped "working" ships are robust enough to handle the vagaries of Arctic weather, yet small enough to explore the intricacies of Norway's heavily indented coastline.
Ships of the line —
Decked out in their distinctive red, white and black livery, Hurtigruten's well-equipped "working" ships are robust enough to handle the vagaries of Arctic weather, yet small enough to explore the intricacies of Norway's heavily indented coastline.
Daniel Allen
Hurtigruten voyages start (and finish) in historic Bergen, a colorful port and Norway's second largest city with 260,000 inhabitants. Highlights include the UNESCO World Heritage-listed architecture of Bryggen, a complex of commercial buildings dating back to the days of the Hanseatic League, and fresh seafood at the popular Bergen Fish Market.
Bustling Bergen —
Hurtigruten voyages start (and finish) in historic Bergen, a colorful port and Norway's second largest city with 260,000 inhabitants. Highlights include the UNESCO World Heritage-listed architecture of Bryggen, a complex of commercial buildings dating back to the days of the Hanseatic League, and fresh seafood at the popular Bergen Fish Market.
Daniel Allen
After fire swept through Alesund in 1904, stone replaced wood as the entire town was rebuilt in just three years in Art Nouveau style. Today architectural enthusiasts can marvel at a whimsical blend of German Jugendstil and Scandinavian mythology sitting among the fjords. <br />
Art Nouveau in Alesund —
After fire swept through Alesund in 1904, stone replaced wood as the entire town was rebuilt in just three years in Art Nouveau style. Today architectural enthusiasts can marvel at a whimsical blend of German Jugendstil and Scandinavian mythology sitting among the fjords.
Daniel Allen
From the beginning of June to the end of August, Hurtigruten ships navigate Geirangerfjord, a UNESCO World Heritage-listed site known by Norwegians as the Pearl of the Western Fjords. Highlights include the Seven Sisters -- a delicate, seven-fingered cascade that drops over steep cliffs into the turquoise waters of the fjord below.
Fantastic fjord —
From the beginning of June to the end of August, Hurtigruten ships navigate Geirangerfjord, a UNESCO World Heritage-listed site known by Norwegians as the Pearl of the Western Fjords. Highlights include the Seven Sisters -- a delicate, seven-fingered cascade that drops over steep cliffs into the turquoise waters of the fjord below.
Daniel Allen
Hurtigruten passengers visiting Geirangerfjord can disembark and explore the Geiranger-Trollstigen route -- a spectacular road trip boasting sheer cliffs and waterfalls, fjords and fertile valleys. The highlight here is the Trollstigen (Troll's Ladder) Road, a series of vertigo-inducing switchbacks. Supernatural beings from Norse mythology, trolls remain important to Norwegians.
Rocks and trolls —
Hurtigruten passengers visiting Geirangerfjord can disembark and explore the Geiranger-Trollstigen route -- a spectacular road trip boasting sheer cliffs and waterfalls, fjords and fertile valleys. The highlight here is the Trollstigen (Troll's Ladder) Road, a series of vertigo-inducing switchbacks. Supernatural beings from Norse mythology, trolls remain important to Norwegians.
Daniel Allen
Regardless of the time of year, photographers aboard Hurtigruten vessels will appreciate the gorgeous displays of light on offer each day. Winter travelers have a great chance of seeing the Northern Lights, while midsummer voyages north of the Arctic Circle mean 24 hours of sunshine.
Light shows —
Regardless of the time of year, photographers aboard Hurtigruten vessels will appreciate the gorgeous displays of light on offer each day. Winter travelers have a great chance of seeing the Northern Lights, while midsummer voyages north of the Arctic Circle mean 24 hours of sunshine.
Daniel Allen
Norwegian cuisine with an international twist, much of the food served aboard Hurtigruten ships is locally sourced. This includes strawberries from Valldalen, reindeer, Arctic char, sea buckthorne, cloudberries, king crabs and scallops.
Coastal kitchen —
Norwegian cuisine with an international twist, much of the food served aboard Hurtigruten ships is locally sourced. This includes strawberries from Valldalen, reindeer, Arctic char, sea buckthorne, cloudberries, king crabs and scallops.
Daniel Allen
Located in central Norway, about 300 miles south of the Arctic Circle, picturesque Trondheim boasts a canal, a castle and cobblestone streets. "Founded in 997, Trondheim was Norway's first capital," explains local guide Hallbjorn Ronning. "Now home to a small army of students, it still has a very youthful feel."
Historical Trondheim —
Located in central Norway, about 300 miles south of the Arctic Circle, picturesque Trondheim boasts a canal, a castle and cobblestone streets. "Founded in 997, Trondheim was Norway's first capital," explains local guide Hallbjorn Ronning. "Now home to a small army of students, it still has a very youthful feel."
Daniel Allen
Trondheim's students support numerous coffee shops. One of the most popular of these is <a href="http://www.skydsstation.no/en" target="_blank" target="_blank">Baklandet Skydsstation</a>, run by the ever amiable Gurli Riis Holmen, who serves up a selection of traditional dishes, great cakes, aquavit and hot chocolate in an 18th-century wooden house.
Cafe culture —
Trondheim's students support numerous coffee shops. One of the most popular of these is Baklandet Skydsstation, run by the ever amiable Gurli Riis Holmen, who serves up a selection of traditional dishes, great cakes, aquavit and hot chocolate in an 18th-century wooden house.
Daniel Allen
On the fourth day out from Bergen, between the villages of Nesna and Ornes, Hurtigruten voyagers pass the Arctic Circle. Marked by a metal globe, this line of latitude marks the southern extremity of the polar, 24-hour sunlit day -- often referred to as the midnight sun.
Across the circle —
On the fourth day out from Bergen, between the villages of Nesna and Ornes, Hurtigruten voyagers pass the Arctic Circle. Marked by a metal globe, this line of latitude marks the southern extremity of the polar, 24-hour sunlit day -- often referred to as the midnight sun.
Daniel Allen
The town of Bodo is known as the gateway to the Norwegian north. Just offshore lies the dramatic Lofoten Archipelago, while the entire region supports the world's densest concentration of white-tailed sea eagles. Hurtigruten excursions include trips by inflatable boat to see nearby attractions, which include Saltstraumen, the world's strongest tidal whirlpool. <br />
Beautiful Bodo —
The town of Bodo is known as the gateway to the Norwegian north. Just offshore lies the dramatic Lofoten Archipelago, while the entire region supports the world's densest concentration of white-tailed sea eagles. Hurtigruten excursions include trips by inflatable boat to see nearby attractions, which include Saltstraumen, the world's strongest tidal whirlpool.
Daniel Allen
About 200 miles (350 kilometers) north of the Arctic Circle, the northern Norwegian city of Tromso is home to approximately 70,000 people. The Tromso Wilderness Center, on nearby Kvaloya Island, is home to over 250 fully grown huskies and puppies, offering visitors a chance to go dog sledding during winter months.<br />
Dog's life —
About 200 miles (350 kilometers) north of the Arctic Circle, the northern Norwegian city of Tromso is home to approximately 70,000 people. The Tromso Wilderness Center, on nearby Kvaloya Island, is home to over 250 fully grown huskies and puppies, offering visitors a chance to go dog sledding during winter months.
Daniel Allen
With just 2,500 inhabitants, Honningsvag is Norway's smallest and most northerly city. It's situated on the island of Mageroya, which also boasts the famous Nordkapp (North Cape) -- mainland Europe's most northerly point. During the summer months the journey from Honningsvag to the North Cape is characterized by rocky tundra and grazing reindeer, while the nearby Gjesvaerstappan nature reserve is home to a huge colony of seabirds, as well as large numbers of the impressive white-tailed sea eagle.
Birds and beasts —
With just 2,500 inhabitants, Honningsvag is Norway's smallest and most northerly city. It's situated on the island of Mageroya, which also boasts the famous Nordkapp (North Cape) -- mainland Europe's most northerly point. During the summer months the journey from Honningsvag to the North Cape is characterized by rocky tundra and grazing reindeer, while the nearby Gjesvaerstappan nature reserve is home to a huge colony of seabirds, as well as large numbers of the impressive white-tailed sea eagle.
Daniel Allen
Situated hard on the Russian border, Kirkenes lies as far east as Cairo and a mere 2,000 kilometers from the North Pole. Street signs in Norwegian and Cyrillic script reinforce the town's frontier feel. Many Hurtigruten voyagers choose to end their sea journey here, continuing on to Russia or flying back to Oslo. <br />
End of the line —
Situated hard on the Russian border, Kirkenes lies as far east as Cairo and a mere 2,000 kilometers from the North Pole. Street signs in Norwegian and Cyrillic script reinforce the town's frontier feel. Many Hurtigruten voyagers choose to end their sea journey here, continuing on to Russia or flying back to Oslo.
Daniel Allen
North by Northwest: To the top of the world on Norway's Hurtigruten line
CNN  — 

Like a Scandinavian version of Chile, Norway’s dragon-tail coastline is long, rugged and packed with natural marvels.

Departing year-round from the southern city of Bergen, ships of Norway’s Hurtigruten (“express route”) service trace this dramatic seaboard north to the remote town of Kirkenes, way beyond the Arctic Circle.

The 2,500-nautical-mile (4,700 kilometers) return journey takes 11 days to complete.

Frequently situated in stunning locations, Norway’s coastal cities, towns and villages are situated on fjords kept ice-free by the warm waters of the Gulf Stream.

Begun in 1893, the Hurtigruten service has long been a vital lifeline for these otherwise isolated communities.

“Some of the smaller settlements in particular still rely heavily on our daily service,” says Hurtigruten managing director Gordon Dirker. “We deliver mail and goods, as well as passengers.”

Today the Hurtigruten fleet consists of 12 ships, each fully equipped with cabins and mod cons such as onboard Wi-Fi, restaurants, bars, gyms and laundry rooms.

Passengers are a mix of Norwegian locals traveling up and down the coast and international tourists on multi-day cruises. The latter are offered a range of excursions each day, depending on the weather, season and port of call.

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Daniel Allen is a journalist and photographer based in London and St. Petersburg

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