China's forgotten village swallowed by nature

Maggie Hiufu Wong, CNNUpdated 14th June 2018
(CNN) — Like something straight out of a fairytale, the abandoned village of Houtouwan on Shengshan Island, part of the Shengsi Archipelago off the eastern coast of China, has recently become an Internet sensation and an unusual travel hotspot.
Houtouwan was once a prosperous fishing village, with a 1980s population of more than 3,000 residents. However, because of its remote and hard-to-access location, its residents started to move out in the '90s.
In 2002, the village was officially depopulated and merged into a nearby village.
After decades of abandonment, empty houses in the ocean-facing, cliffside village -- some of them still furnished -- have been taken over by a blanket of lush climbing plants.

A ghost village-turned-tourist hotspot

The ghost village looks even more enchanting in misty weather.
The ghost village looks even more enchanting in misty weather.
JOHANNES EISELE/AFP/AFP/Getty Images
Houtouwan soared to fame among Chinese netizens in 2015 when a series of mesmerizing photographs of the deserted village went viral.
Instead of celebrating its new-found popularity, the officials of Shengsi Archipelago were cautious of the impact brought by the sudden surge of tourists.
"Our telephone lines are jammed and we are getting more tourists to Houtouwan," Chen Bo, an official of Shengshan Island, said in an official statement at the time.
"Houtouwan of Shengshan hasn't been equipped with the conditions to open to tourists... We urge visitors to preserve its tranquility for now."
But now, it's ready for tourists. Sort of.

Hiking Houtouwan

Hiking around the village will easily take up a few hours.
Hiking around the village will easily take up a few hours.
JOHANNES EISELE/AFP/AFP/Getty Images
After more than two years of planning, Houtouwan -- despite still being comparatively off-the-grid -- has implemented a few new moves to control and monetize the boom.
A new viewing platform opened last year, offering an overview of the village from afar (for a ticket price of $3).
Visitors can hike around the hilly village for a fee of $8. Signs are put up outside empty houses to warn tourists about the possible danger of entering the deteriorating structures.
New bed-and-breakfast accommodations have also popped up around the island. In 2017, it brought in more than $100,000 in revenue.

A popular weekend trip from Shanghai

Shengshan Island is famous for its seafood.
Shengshan Island is famous for its seafood.
JOHANNES EISELE/AFP/AFP/Getty Images
The Shengsi Archipelago, around 40 miles from Shanghai, is the only archipelago officially declared a National Scenic Area in China.
With more than 400 islets, the archipelago is a popular weekend getaway from Shanghai.
Shengshan is the easternmost island and, together with neighboring Gouqi Island, is famous for its seafood.
It boasts one of the biggest fish farms in China.

How to get there

Summer is the best season to visit the village.
Summer is the best season to visit the village.
JOHANNES EISELE/AFP/AFP/Getty Images
The best time to see the village is summer -- when vegetation is in full bloom.
Getting to Houtouwan isn't a straight-forward trip. Limited ferry services run between mainland China and Gouqi Island (the island is connected to Shengshan by a short bridge).
Usually, only one ferry ride departs daily from Shanghai's Shenjiawan Pier (at 9:15 a.m.) and Zhoushan Shenjiamen Banshengdong Dock (at 7 a.m.).
The ride takes around three hours and will drop you off at Gouqi Island, where you can get a local taxi to Houtouwan.
Overnight visitors can reserve their return tickets and taxi ride in advance through their hotels or bed-and-breakfasts.