Munich, the city of seven world-renowned breweries, scores of beer halls and the world's biggest beer gardens, is equally blessed with a variety of restaurants. There's something to please virtually every palate (and pocketbook), ranging from traditional Bavarian specialties to ethnic delicacies to fresh seafood flown in daily.

Gasthauser and gaststatten eateries serve rustic German and Bavarian foods. Bavarian dishes tend to be a bit heavy, but good local beers and Franconian wines help to wash them down. Braten (roasts), schweinshaxe (shanks of pork) and weisswurst (spiced veal sausages) are popular meats, usually accompanied by sauerkraut. Dumplings, known as knodel, are made of either grated potato (kartoffel) or bread crumbs (semmel) and are also common side dishes. Leberknodelsuppe is a clear broth served with a liver dumpling. Leberkas, a loaf of minced pork and veal, is similar to hot dogs in taste. Though fish may be on the menu in traditional restaurants, it's usually disappointing in our experience. Regardless of what you eat, locals fervently believe in the digestive properties of an after-dinner schnapps.

You'll also find Italian, Balkan, Greek, Thai, Vietnamese and classical French restaurants, plus scores of others serving everything from American to Afghan to Uzbek dishes. Don't overlook the more than 300 Konditoreien, many making their own caloric pastries and chocolates.

Below is a sampling of restaurants in town. Expect to pay within these general price ranges, based on the cost of a dinner for one, excluding drinks: $ = less than 20 DM; $$ = 20 DM-35 DM; $$$ = 36 DM-80 DM; $$$$ = more than 80 DM. Be advised that not every establishment accepts credit cards.

FAVORITE RESTAURANTS

Gasthaus Glockenbach—The talk of the town when it opened in 1992, it won its first Michelin star in 1994 and secured it again in 1999. Gault-Millau rates it with three toques and 18 out of a possible 20 points. Chef and co-owner Karl Ederer aspires to return to Bavarian regional country cooking, to which he applies the principles of nouvelle cuisine, using only the best and freshest ingredients. Menu changes daily, but when it's offered, try the sauerkraut ravioli with ham and chive sauce or the roast leg of kid in glazed white cabbage with spinach and wild garlic sauce. Modern art decorates the old, wood-paneled tavern. Lunch served Tuesday-Saturday noon-3 pm, dinner served Tuesday-Saturday 6:30-9:30 pm. Reservations required. $$$-$$$$. Most major credit cards. Kapuziner Strasse 29, Munich. Phone 534-043.

Kafer Schanke—Fine dining above one of Munich's best-known gourmet delicatessens. Lobster, fish, delicious soups and seasonal entrees. Changing lunch menus and an excellent wine selection. Monday-Saturday 11:30 am-1 am. Reservations required. $$$. Most major credit cards. Prinzregentenstrasse 73, Munich. Phone 416-8247.

Konigshof—German and international dishes. An unforgettable view from the dining room takes in several landmarks, including Karlsplatz and the Palace of Justice. Daily noon-2:30 pm and 6:45-11 pm. Reservations advised. $$$-$$$$. Most major credit cards. Karlsplatz 25, Munich. Phone 551-360.

Tantris—Fashionable and elegant dining in northern Schwabing. Innovative and light French cuisine, dramatic decor. With two Michelin stars and four toques in the Gault-Millau, it ranks among Germany's very best. Tuesday-Saturday noon-3 pm and 6:30 pm-1 am. Reservations required. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Johann Fichte Strasse 7, Munich. Phone 361-9590.

LOCAL AND REGIONAL SPECIALTIES

Andechser am Dom—The monks of Kloster Andechs (south of Munich) brought their tasty beer and Bavarian specialties to the city. Roast pork in dark beer sauce, grilled bratwurst, duck and fish entrees. Daily 9 am-1 pm. $-$$. No credit cards. Near Frauenkirche. Weinstrasse 7a, Munich. Phone 298-481.

Augustiner Grossgaststatten—Right in the pedestrian area, this building dates from the late 1800s and is one of the few in the Old Town that suffered no wartime damage. It's huge, with seating for 1,000 guests in a dozen cavernous rooms and a picturesque summer courtyard. The menu, too, is vast, and connoisseurs claim that no other eatery serves better traditional dishes. Open daily 9 am-midnight. $$. Most major credit cards. Neuhauser Strasse 27, Munich. Phone 2318-3257.

Unionsbrau Haidhausen—Housed in a huge brewery encompassing a number of restaurants and pubs. At the Unionsbrau, Bavarian specialties are served upstairs in a somewhat formal setting or downstairs on wooden tables laden with bowls of crunchy malt seeds. The true specialty of the house is the naturally cloudy, unfiltered beer. Ask about the nightly 9 pm jazz concerts and jam sessions at Jazzclub Unterfahrt, which is housed in Einstein, the cultural center at the same address. Daily 11 am-1 am, Fridays and Saturdays to 3 am. $-$$. No credit cards. Einsteinstrasse 42, Munich. Phone 477-677.

ASIAN

Benjarong—Its name means "five colors"—a reference to the enameled and glazed ceramic wares used by Thailand's aristocracy. Fine examples are on display, complemented by solid teak furnishings co-owner Chainarong Kahakeaw imported from his native Thailand. Among the specialties on the vast menu are dishes prepared in red or yellow curry. Open Monday-Friday noon-2:30 pm and daily for dinner 6-11:30 pm. Reservations advised. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Falckenbergstrasse 7. Phone 291-3055.

Masala—Many locals consider this to be the best Indian eatery in Munich. Spicy lobster soup and leg of lamb served in a savory Korma sauce are just two of the honorable mentions from the diverse menu. Open daily 5 pm-1 am and Monday-Friday 11:30 am-2:30 pm. $-$$. Most major credit cards. Mariannenstrasse 3. Phone 2194-9072.

Sho-ya-Sushi—Though the city offers a bounty of Japanese retaurants, many are little more than loud, trendy yuppie hangouts. That is not the case at this restaurant. A pub atmosphere and handwritten wall-mounted menus set the stage for excellent sushi and such cooked delicacies as exquisite, lightly battered jumbo shrimp. Open daily 11:30 am-2:30 pm and 6-11 pm. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Gabelsbergerstrasse 85. Phone 523-6249.

BREAKFAST AND BRUNCH

Baader Cafe—One of the owners is a Chicago native and a superb baker. Blueberry muffins, cheese cake, French toast, brownies and other American specialties are served in an artsy, relaxed setting. A hot spot for more than a dozen years, it is cafe by day and student favorite by night. Open daily 10 am-1 am. $-$$. No credit cards. Baaderstrasse 47. Phone 201-0638.

Marktcafe—Strudel heaven, both for the traditional varieties (apple and cherry) and the not-so-traditional (veggie, cheese, spinach or sauerkraut). Good breakfast menu. Monday-Friday 9 am-10 pm, Saturday 9 am-5 pm. $-$$. Heiliggeiststrasse 2 (at Viktualienmarkt). Phone 227-816.

Movenpick im Kunstlerhaus—This Munich branch of the Swiss chain is idyllically located in the 1890s Kunstlerhaus—the clubhouse of one of Munich's numerous artists cooperatives. It's a complex of dining rooms, bars and outdoor terraces serving international cuisine and Swiss specialties year round. But more important, it introduced Munich to an American-style Sunday brunch, served 10:30 am-2:30 pm. Reservations required. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Lenbachplatz 8. Phone 545-9490.

CAFES AND TEA ROOMS

More than 300 cafes and konditoreien serve not only their own pastries, chocolates and ice cream, but also sandwiches, breakfasts and an array of beverages. Most open around 8 or 9 am and close between 6-8 pm. There are magazines and newspapers to read, and you can sit all day without being hassled.

Cafe Hag—Once the confectionery shop by appointment to the Wittelsbach court and still located across the street from the Residenz. Chintz-curtained, with black-garbed and starch-aproned waitresses, it purveys fine pralines and calorific cakes. Open daily 9 am-6 pm. $-$$. Residenzstrasse 25. Phone 222-915.

Caffe Tambosi—Located right on Odeonsplatz facing the Feldherrnhalle and Theatinerkirche, with outdoor seating on warm days. This is a reincarnation and replica of the 225-year-old cafe where Mozart was a guest whenever he visited the city. It's had numerous restorations, the most recent in 1997. Besides choosing from 14 kinds of coffee and 13 kinds of tea, you can have breakfast or lunch or a light after-theater dinner. The strudel specialties—apple, cottage cheese, poppyseed or cherry—are served with ice cream. Open daily 8:30 am-1 am. $-$$$. Most major credit cards. Odeonsplatz 18. Phone 298-322.

Kreutskamm—Famed for pastries and chocolates, Christmas stollen and chocolate-covered baumkuchen. Crowded at lunch. Monday-Saturday 9 am-7 pm. $-$$. No credit cards. Maffeistrasse 4 (close to Marienplatz, just off Theatinerstrasse). Phone 293-277.

CONTINENTAL

Boettner—Here, at the current favorite of German celebrities, it is a lobster-caviar-champagne affair. Non-celebrities receive the same efficient service from a friendly staff. Try the lobster thermidor—as artful as the restaurant's ambience, from the bay windows to the intricately carved door frames. Daily 5 pm-midnight. Reservations required. $$$-$$$$. Most major credit cards. Pfisterstrasse 9, Munich. Phone 221-210.

FRENCH

Le Bousquerey—Excellent French dishes and wines, tempting desserts and a cheese plate you normally find only in France. Daily 6 pm-1 am. Reservations advised. $$-$$$. No credit cards. In Haidhausen (Rosenheimerplatz S-Bahn station), at Rablstrasse 37. Phone 488-455.

Le Galouis—For those who enjoy French cuisine, yet wish to leave the neckie or skirt at home, this is the place. A crackling fire and rustic flare lend the "no airs" ambience. First-rate crepes, fondues and galettes are offered inexpensively. Open daily 6 pm-1 am, food served until 11 pm. Reservations advised. $-$$. Most major credit cards. Horwarthstrasse 4. Phone 467-435.

Rue des Halles—Highly regarded French bistro offering delicious, unpretentious food. Excellent service. Open every day for dinner only, 6:30 pm-1 am. Reservations essential. $$$. Visa only. In Haidhausen at Steinstrasse 18 (near Max Weber Platz and the Gasteig). Phone 485-675.

Werneckhof—Located in a tiny, villa-lined corner of Schwabing behind Munchner Freiheit, this French restaurant offers a romantic atmosphere in additon to its fine cuisine. Chef Daniel Serra adds a creative touch to traditional fare. Menu highlights include breast of poularde stuffed with langostinos and St. Pierre fish served with tomatoes and eggplant in a coriander oil-laced curry sauce. Daily 6 pm-midnight. Reservations required. $$$. Most major credit cards. Werneckstrasse 11, Munich. Phone 399-936.

GERMAN

Weissesbrauhaus—This is the place to go when you are looking for "a real German joint." Generous portions of knodel, blaukraut, schweinsbraten and the like have a homemade quality. Traditional Bavarian Sunday breakfast consists of weissbier, weisswurst, soft pretzels and an oompah band. Favorite of soccer fans. Daily 8 am-midnight. $-$$. No credit cards. Near Marienplatz. Tal 10, Munich. Phone 299-875.

Zum Alten Markt—In a cobblestone alley adjacent to the Viktualienmarkt, this is a favorite of local residents. In good weather, enjoy hearty Bavarian fare on the restaurant's terrace, which boasts an excellent view of the bustling market. Monday-Saturday noon-midnight (food served until 10 pm). $-$$$. No credit cards. Dreifaltigkeitsplatz 3, Munich. Phone 299-995.

GREEK

Paros—Voted one of Germany's ten best Greek restaurants. Typical fare, from gyros to souvlaki, is served by almost giddy waiters. Open 5 pm-1 am. $$. Most major credit cards. Kirchenstrasse 27 (Haidhausen). Phone 470-1877.

ITALIAN (INCLUDING PIZZERIAS)

Cinecitta—Friendly and very busy Italian eatery dedicated to Italian film stars. Great appetizers, good pasta and generous portions of tiramisu for dessert. Daily 11:30 am-11:30 pm. $. Theresienstrasse 144 (Theresienstrasse U-Bahn station). Phone 522-209.

Il Fiore—On a side street around the corner from the Deutsches Museum, this small ristorante is run by food enthusiast Maria Bitacola. While one can order a la carte, it is most wise to let Maria select a price-fixed four- to six-course meal, and, as she puts it, "pamper you." Monk fish wrapped in zucchini slices and served in a green vegetable purse and spinach pasta wtih grilled oyster mushrooms highlight daily specials. Open Monday-Friday and Sunday 11 am-12:30 am. $$-$$$. No credit cards. Lilienstrasse 6. Phone 486-112.

La Cantinella—This cozy restaurant, decorated with huge bouquets of fresh flowers, is on a quiet side street, close to the Haus der Kunst. On warm, sunny days you can dine in the garden. This is one of the consistently best Italian restaurants around: Experience pasta dishes that change daily, fish entrees and such appetizers as vitello tonato (veal in tuna sauce) or arugula salad with sauteed breast of quail. Open Monday-Saturday 11:30 am-2:30 pm and 6 pm-midnight. Reservations needed. $$$. Most major credit cards. Schonfeldstrasse 15a. Phone 285-357.

Massimiliano—It's unusual for an Italian restaurant in Germany to win a Michelin star, but this one in Haidhausen, close to the Gasteig, is one of them. Massimiliano's decor—blond wood with marble paneling—is not very cozy or romantic, but there's no dispute about what proprietor-chef Kurt Gasser delivers from the kitchen. He blends Mediterranean dishes with those of northern Italy, preparing them with a light, nouvelle touch. A typical prix-fixe, four-course meal might be carpaccio of celery root and red beets, poached bream, roast Bresse poularde and lebkuchen ice cream with chestnut cream. Open daily 11:30 am-2:30 pm and 6 pm-midnight, but closed for lunch on Saturday. Reservations required. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Rablstrasse 10. Phone 448-4477.

LATE NIGHT

Cafe Reitschule—Lively nighttime atmosphere with a deejay. An "in" spot for Munich's hip crowd. Uncomplicated food and good breakfast menu. Beer garden, too. Daily 9 am-1 am. $-$$. No credit cards. Near Englischer Garten. Koniginstrasse 34 (Giselastrasse U-Bahn station). Phone 333-402.

Schmalznudel—A Munich institution. After a night of dancing, it's the place to go for an eye-opening cup of coffee and fresh donuts. The atmosphere created by the late-night/early-morning crowd is a show in itself. Monday-Saturday 5 am-5 pm. $. Pralat Zistl Strasse 8 (near Viktualienmarkt). Phone 268-237.

ADDITIONAL EXPERIENCES

Cafe Glockenspiel—This is the place with the million-dollar view: a restaurant, cafe and bar on the sixth floor of an office building that faces the Neues Rathaus. The setting is as memorable as the ambience is romantic. Short international menu, but it changes seasonally, and every dish is impeccably prepared. Most days reservations are essential for dinner. Open daily 10 am-1 am. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Marienplatz 28 (entrance and access to elevator on Rosental). Phone 264-256.

Olympiaturm Restaurant—The top of this radio and television tower, built for the 1972 Olympic Games, now serves as an exceptionally good restaurant, serving international cuisine. Though the view from the 200-meter-high rotating eatery is alone worth the visit, delicious culinary offerings such as crab risotto with smoked lachs garniture are an unexpected bonus. Service can be slow, but peering out at the Alps isn't a bad way to pass the time. Reservations advised. Open daily 11 am-5:30 pm and 6:30 pm-midnight. $$-$$$$. Most major credit cards. Spiridon Louis Ring 7. Phone 3066-8585.

Welser Kuche—A medieval meal served in the cellars beneath the Feldherrnhalle on Odeonsplatz. Hearty, authentic medieval recipes eaten with only one utensil. Reservations necessary. Opens at 7 pm, meal for all guests begins at 8 pm. Closed on two-day holidays. $$$$. Residenzstrasse 27. Phone 296-565.