Seafood still reigns supreme (you must try the New England clam "chowdah"). Generally, we recommend eating any seafood that's presented to you, but go out of your way to find fresh lobster or steamed clams.

But, that said, the impact of multiculturalism on local cuisine can't be overstated. Thai, Vietnamese, Middle Eastern, Indian, Caribbean and Cajun restaurants have taken hold in a town with a (partially deserved) reputation for provincialism. Current dining trends run to exquisitely prepared and presented contemporary French cuisine, Mediterranean-inspired bistros and "Asian fusion" restaurants.

This city has long had a large Italian-American community, so there is a daunting array of great Italian places to choose from, too. For authentic Italian flavor and a neighborhood to match, head to the North End—but don't drive! Instead, take the Green or Orange Line to the Haymarket T stop and walk through the pedestrian underpass beneath the Central Artery. Part of the fun of the North End is strolling up and down the streets comparing menus and prices. Leave room for espresso and sweets at one of the neighborhood's pastry shops or cafes.

Having such a wealth of choices does not come cheap, however; Boston can be a very expensive city in which to dine. For a less costly option, consider taking your main meal at lunch, especially at Legal Seafoods or the Barking Crab for clams or lobster. Stop for a dim sum brunch in Chinatown or at the ever-touristy, ever-reliable Durgin Park.

Below is a sampling of restaurants in town. Expect to pay within these general guidelines for a single dinner without tax, tip or drinks: $ = less than US$10, $$ = US$10-$20, $$$ = US$20-$50, $$$$ = more than US$50.

FAVORITE RESTAURANTS

Ambrosia—This restaurant has been a critically acclaimed sensation since it opened several years ago, across from the Christian Science Center, where Back Bay meets the South End. Quite successfully, the chef prepares a fusion of French and Japanese cuisines. Lunch Monday-Friday 11 am-2 pm; dinner Monday-Thursday 5:30-10 pm, Friday 5:30-11 pm, Saturday 5-11 pm, Sunday 5-10 pm. Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards. 116 Huntington Ave., Boston. Phone 617-247-2400.

Aujourd'hui—Inspired contemporary American cuisine (its name notwithstanding) in an elegant dining room overlooking the Public Garden—the perfect place for a celebration. Flawless grand hotel dining without attitude or artifice. In addition to perusing the standard a la carte menu, consider the prix-fixe Tasting Menu (a multicourse dinner of seasonal specialties. Four Seasons Hotel (between Arlington and Boylston T stops on the Green Line). Monday-Saturday 5:30-10 pm. Reservations recommended. $$$$. Most major credit cards. 200 Boylston St., Boston. Phone 617-451-1392.

Biba—When you want something truly different, check out this innovative restaurant by Lydia Shire and Susan Regis. A multicultural menu, with such dishes as fried boned quail, green-tea duck with ginger-and-scallion pancakes, maple- and rum-smoked salmon. And where else can you get lobster pizza? Amazing array of bar food in the first-floor bar. Daily 11:30 am-1:30 am (no lunch served Saturday). Reservations accepted. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. No American Express. 272 Boylston (across from Public Garden), Boston. Phone 617-426-7878.

Hamersley's Bistro—Exquisite, seasonal menus prepared in a country French-American style. Start with the grilled garlic and mushroom sandwich. Outdoor patio, weather permitting. No smoking. Monday-Friday 6-10 pm, Saturday 5:30-10:30 pm, Sunday 5:30-9:30 pm. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$. Most major credit cards. 553 Tremont St., Boston. Phone 617-423-2700.

Les Zygomates—This wine bar and bistro serves French-influenced specialities such as lobster bisque and joues de porcelet (pork cheeks). Parisian-type zinc-topped bar. Jazz entertainment on Tuesday and Saturday evenings. Lunch Monday-Friday 11:30 am-2 pm; dinner Monday-Thursday 6-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 6-11 pm. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. 129 South St. (near South Station), Boston. Phone 617-542-5108.

Mistral—Mistral is both a bar and bistro with elegant decorations. Dazzling grill and sublime French cuisine. Valet parking. Dinner daily 5:30-10 pm. $$. Most major credit cards. 223 Columbus Ave., Boston. Phone 617-867-9300.

Olives—Wildly popular Mediterranean-style bistro. Expect a long wait, but it's worth it. Chef Todd English features food from "where the olives grow." Stop in on a weeknight after touring the USS Constitution and Bunker Hill monuments. Arrive early. Monday-Friday 5:30-10 pm, Saturday 5-10:30 pm. No reservations for parties of fewer than six. $$$. Most major credit cards. 10 City Square (Main Street), Charlestown, Boston. Phone 617-242-1999.

LOCAL AND REGIONAL SPECIALTIES

Barking Crab—A "clam shack" in the city. Go for the lobster and fried clams, not crab. Have a late lunch on a sunny afternoon. Sit out on the deck with your food and a local microbrewery beer and watch the boats go by. Daily 11:30 am-11 pm. Most major credit cards. 88 Sleeper St. (near Northern Ave.), Boston. Phone 617-426-2722.

Durgin Park—An absolute must for travelers in search of local flavors. Crowded, noisy, with more-than-occasionally-haughty wait staff. The meals are pure New England (seafood, huge cuts of prime rib, baked beans and Indian pudding), and the atmosphere is...harried. Don't miss the chowder! No parking available. Monday-Saturday 11:30 am-10:30 pm, Sunday 11:30 am-9 pm. No reservations. $$. Most major credit cards. Most major credit cards. 340 Faneuil Hall, Boston. Phone 617-227-2038.

East Coast Grill and Raw Bar—Combines grilled specialties with fiery spices and fruit salsas from around the world. Emphasis is on grilled fish. Daily 5:30-10 pm. Reservations accepted Sunday-Thursday only for parties of 5 or more. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. 1271 Cambridge St. (in Cambridge, near Inman Square), Boston. Phone 617-491-6568.

Legal Sea Foods—Boston means seafood, and seafood means lobster, swordfish, bluefish, calamari and littleneck clams and, of course, scrod. This restaurant chain provides some of the best seafood in town. Try the one at Park Square, near the Boston Public Garden. There's another restaurant in Kendall Square in Cambridge. The lines are long, but the seafood is ultra fresh, varied and delicious. (Park Square: near the Arlington T stop on the Green Line; Cambridge: Kendall T stop on the Red Line). Monday-Thursday 11 am-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 11:30 am-11:30 pm, Sunday noon-10 pm. Call to inquire about reservation policy. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. 26 Park Square, Boston. Phone 617-426-4444.

Sonsie—Newbury Street chic, this is the place to see people and be seen. Gorgeous wooden decor and some of the best appetizers in Boston: Try the skillet-roasted mussels. Also good for breakfast before shopping your way down the street. Breakfast daily 7-11 am; lunch Monday-Friday 11:30 am-2:30 pm; dinner Sunday-Tuesday 6-10:30 pm, Wednesday-Saturday 6 pm-midnight; brunch Saturday and Sunday 11:30 am-3 pm. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. 327 Newbury St., Boston. Phone 617-351-2500.

AMERICAN

The Bay Tower—The harbor views from 33 floors above the Faneuil Hall Marketplace are spectacular. There's a range of seasonal American and New England cuisine—try the rack of lamb with an herb crust and onion confit. Eclectic music at night includes swing and jazz. Cocktails and dancing: Monday-Thursday 4:30 pm-1 am, Friday and Saturday 4:30 pm-2 am. Monday-Thursday 5:30-9:45 pm, Friday and Saturday 5-10:15 pm. Reservations strongly suggested. Jackets required for men. $$$. Most major credit cards. 60 State St., Boston. Phone 617-723-1666.

ASIAN

China Pearl—A dazzling selection of dim sum in a busy, crowded upstairs room: Servers circulate carts laden with steamy, flavorful "little tastes"—you point at what you want, and the server keeps a tally. Regular menu features Hong Kong and Sichuan styles. Dim sum seven days a week. Daily 8:30 am-11 pm. $$. Most major credit cards. 9 Tyler St. (Chinatown), phone 617-426-4338.

Elephant Walk—Cambodian, with French nuances and a friendly staff to explain the unfamiliar. Bring a group so you can sample many dishes, and don't forget desserts (which are more traditionally Western). Lunch served daily except Sunday 11:30 am-2:30 pm. Dinner served Sunday-Thursday 5-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 5-11 pm. Reservations accepted for lunch and Sunday-Thursday dinner. $$. Most major credit cards. 900 Beacon St. (near Kenmore Square), Boston. Phone 617-247-1500.

Ginza—Top-notch Japanese...in Chinatown. Fresh sushi, maki and other entrees. Lunch: Monday-Friday 11:30 am-2:30 pm, Saturday and Sunday 11:30 am-4 pm. Dinner: Sunday and Monday 5 pm-2 am, Tuesday-Saturday 5 pm-4 am. Reservations for five or more. $$. Most major credit cards. 16 Hudson St., phone 617-338-2261.

Passage to India—Some of the best Indian food in the 617 area code and worth the T ride from downtown Boston. This is a tiny place in Porter Square, down Mass. Ave. from Harvard Square. The dishes are spicy and full of flavor, and the atmosphere is relaxed, with unself-conscious decor. Daily 5-11 pm. $-$$. 1900 Massachusetts Ave., Cambridge, phone 617-497-6113.

Penang—If you've ever been curious about Malaysian food, this is a great place to get your feet wet. Sharp, distinct flavors in such dishes as the yam pots (with taro root) and beef rendang. Sunday-Thursday 11:30 am-11:30 pm, Friday and Saturday 11:30 am-midnight. $-$$. Most major credit cards. 681-685 Washington St., phone 617-451-6372.

Thai House—Among the numerous Thai restaurants that have burgeoned in the Boston area over recent years, this is one of the very best. Country pad thai and the excellent satays are recommended. Monday-Friday 11:30 am-10 pm, Saturday 11 am-11 pm and Sunday noon-10 pm. $$. Most major credit cards. 1033 Commonwealth Ave., Brighton (near Boston University), phone 617-787-4242.

BREAKFAST AND BRUNCH

Ritz Cafe—Home of the power breakfast—before business or shopping your way down Newbury Street. Daily 6:30-11:30 am. $$. Most major credit cards. Ritz-Carlton Hotel, 15 Arlington St., phone 617-536-5700.

FRENCH

Aquitaine—A Paris bistro in Boston's hot South End. Try the pomme frites, roast salmon and an excellent wine list. Also, a wonderful Sunday brunch menu. Wednesday 5:30-10 pm, Thursday-Saturday 5:30-11 pm, Sunday 10 am-2 pm and 5:30-10 pm. $$$. Most major credit cards. 569 Tremont St., Boston. Phone 617-424-8577.

Clio—Romantic and elegant; creative without being too far out. Contemporary French-American cusine served up in a swank dining room carpeted with a leopard print. Tasting menu available. Daily 5:30-10 pm. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$. Most major credit cards. 370A Commonwealth Ave. (Eliot Hotel), Boston. Phone 617-536-7200.

L'Espalier—Luxurious townhouse setting for contemporary French dining. Select from a 3-course prix fixe menu or multi-course tasting menus (including vegetarian and caviar menus!). Excellent wine pairings. Monday-Saturday 5:30-10:30 pm. Reservations recommended. $$$$. Most major credit cards. 30 Gloucester St., Boston. Phone 617-262-3023.

Maison Robert—Housed in what used to be Boston's City Hall prior to the 1970s, Maison Robert presents a classic menu of exquisite French dishes with contemporary touches. Eating on the outdoor terrace (weather permitting) is delightful. For a haute-cuisine bargain, try the prix-fixe menu in the more casual Cafe (formal dining room menu also available). Lunch Monday-Friday 11:30 am-2:30 pm, dinner Monday-Friday 5:30-10 pm, Saturday 5:30-10:30 pm. Reservations suggested. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. On the Freedom Trail, in historic City Hall. 45 School St., phone 617-227-3370.

Radius—Dramatic and elegant, this is the place to observe the Financial district power scene. Fabulous flavors and presentation in a contemporary French-American style. Try the sea scallops and the caramelized grapefruit tart. Great service. Lunch Monday-Friday, 11:30 am-2:30 pm. Dinner Monday-Saturday, 5:30-10:30 pm (Friday-Saturday until 11 pm). $$$$. Most major credit cards. 8 High St., Boston. Phone 617-426-1234.

ITALIAN (INCLUDING PIZZERIAS)

Caffe Vittoria—For your after-dinner espresso and cannoli (many North End restaurants do not serve dessert). Daily 11 am-midnight, Friday-Saturday until 1 am. $-$$. No credit cards. 294 Hanover St., phone 617-227-7606.

Giacomo's—Northern and southern styles of Italian cooking are featured in this popular little place in the North End. The daily specials are posted on two blackboards. The casual ambience is augmented by exposed brick walls and pressed-tin ceilings. Monday-Thursday 5-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 5-10:30 pm, Sunday 4-10 pm. $$. Most major credit cards. 355 Hanover St., phone 617-523-9026.

Mamma Maria's—Romantic atmosphere featuring classic Italian dining. Many tables overlooking the city. Lunch Tuesday-Saturday 11:30 am-2 pm. Dinner Sunday-Thursday 5-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 5-10:30 pm. Reservations required. $$$. Most major credit cards. 3 North Square (across a cobblestone plaza from the Paul Revere House in the North End), phone 617-523-0077.

Piccola Venezia—Great food, reasonably priced. Straightforward southern Italian red sauce served by a very accommodating staff. Daily 11 am to approximately 10 pm. Reservations weekdays only. $$. Most major credit cards. 263 Hanover St. (North End), phone 617-523-3888.

Ristorante Toscano—Authentic northern Italian. Florentine chef prepares food "like his mama did"—superbly. Try the risotto, scallopini or swordfish. Breads and pastas made on premises. Lunch Monday-Saturday 11:30 am-2 pm, dinner served daily 5:30-9:30 pm. Reservations suggested. $$-$$$. American Express only. 41 Charles St. (Beacon Hill), phone 617-723-4090.

Terramia—Classical Italian prepared with fresh, seasonal ingredients. The risotto is lovely. Intimate dining room (i.e., small). Monday-Thursday 5-10 pm, Friday 5-10:30 pm, Saturday 4-10:30 pm, Sunday 2-10 pm. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. 98 Salem St. (North End), phone 617-523-3112.

STEAK HOUSES

Capital Grille—Too much seafood or Asian-Mediterranean fusion cuisine? This upscale steakhouse may be the antidote. Sip your Scotch and enjoy an impeccably grilled steak (or fish) with a salad and potato. Sunday-Wednesday 5-10 pm, Thursday-Saturday 5-11 pm. Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards. 359 Newbury St., phone 262-8900.

ADDITIONAL EXPERIENCES

Blue Diner—Reliable, American diner fare for late night meals or breakfast anytime. Monday-Thursday 7 am-4 am; open all weekend 7 am Friday-Monday 4 am. $-$$. Most major credit cards. 150 Kneeland St. (near South Street), phone 617-695-0087.

The Bristol Lounge—Afternoon tea in the lounge of the Four Seasons is a lovely experience, especially at Christmastime when you can watch the snow fall on the illuminated Public Garden. British-style high tea, daily 3-4:30 pm. $$. Most major credit cards. Four Seasons Hotel, 200 Boylston St., phone 617-338-4400.

Jake's Boss BBQ—Some of the best barbecue in the state—the meats are tender, flavorful and well spiced. Go early, as the neighborhood can become sketchy later at night. Thursday-Saturday 11 am-11 pm, Sunday, Tuesday and Wednesday 11 am-10 pm. $. Most major credit cards. 3492 Washington St., Jamaica Plain, phone 617-983-3701.

Lala Rokh—Let the seductive marriage of meat, fruit, vegetables and spices that are Persian cuisine transport you to another time and place. Don’t be intimidated by your lack of knowledge of the menu choices—the wait staff are expert and gracious guides. Daily 5:30-10 pm. $$. Reservations recommended. Most major credit cards accepted. 97 Mt. Vernon St. (Beacon Hill), phone 617-720-5511.)