Saturday, April 21, 2007
"Shhhhhh ... "


Some streets are quieter than you'd expect.

'Tis the night before the election and it almost feels like France isn't going to the polls in less than 24 hours. Some streets around the Champs-Elysees are quieter than you'd expect on a Saturday; and because of a campaign blackout before the vote, very little is said about Sunday’s crucial election on the air.

French law forbids candidates from campaigning or the media from disclosing poll numbers for almost 48 hours before the big day. It also threatens fines of some $100,000 to anyone disclosing exit poll results before 8 p.m. local time Sunday.

In my hotel room, I try catching up on the morning's developments. One network is airing a game show, another a decorating program and a third an American series.

No luck on the web either. French Web sites must abide by the same rules. Though French law seems almost archaic, with foreign Web sites, newspapers and television networks saying they will publish results as they please.

Anyone with an Internet connection in France can get around the rules. Twenty-first century technology is making the legislators' job harder.

Still, today, the country’s 45 million voters sound almost like a murmur even though, in a few hours, they will all cast votes that will radically change their country's future.

This is the end of an era in France and for the French. It is the first time since 1974 that none of the candidates running have held the office of prime minister or president.

Goodbye Jacques Chirac and the World War II generation, France is getting a political facelift: Conservative Nicolas Sarkozy on the right, Socialist Segolene Royal on the left and the so-called "third man" Francois Bayrou in the middle. All in their fifties, all promising to bring down unemployment and bring back France’s glory abroad.

But hang on, don't forget the extreme right-wing candidate Jean-Marie Le Pen. One of the last polls published put him in third place, ahead of Bayrou. And because when polled a portion of Le Pen voters do not admit to voting for the National Front leader, some analysts warn he might make it to the second round and shock France in the same way he did in 2002.

No matter who makes it, France is bound to change and French voters are craving a new chapter. Unemployment is high, crime is on the rise and issues like immigration and "national identity" are high on the agenda.

The CNN operation is in full swing to bring you the latest results. We will be anchoring live from the Champs-Elysees in the lead-up to the vote and from 1800GMT with the official results. In a little more than 24 hours, the top two candidates will emerge and break their silence.

From Hala Gorani, CNN International Anchor/Correspondent
Friday, April 20, 2007
Six things we learned in the Arctic


A very well-padded "Spirit of Adventure" team.

Equipped with our trusty snowmobiles, Becky, Chris Mansson, Darren Bull and I went on an Arctic adventure with our guide Kristin last week. The shoot was for the new feature "The Spirit of ...," which launches in the first weekend of May.

Where did we go? And how did we get there, you ask?

For "The Spirit of Adventure" we went up to Spitsbergen, a Norwegian island in the Arctic Ocean. For all you geography fans, Spitsbergen is at latitude 78°57 N, longitude 12°27 E (i.e. very, VERY far up north).

The temperature while we were there varied from -20C to 4C, plus wind chill.

We flew to the town of Longyearbyen. Longyearbyen is known as the world's northernmost settlement with a population of about 1,800 (they have a Thai restaurant and the supermarket sells L'Oreal makeup.) However, we spent the majority of the trip outside Longyearbyen -- about a 2-hour snowmobile ride away from the town.

The beauty really is awe-inspiring! I'm sure I had a smile frozen (literally) on my face the entire week we were there (it really was FROZEN on my face; thankfully I wasn't FROWNING when we landed.)


Any concerns I had about the logistics and potential difficulties of the shoot went right out the window, the moment we caught a glimpse of the island from the plane. The sun was out 24 hours a day, albeit not always shining brightly.


A frozen ship ... the starting point of our journey.



Six things we learned in the Arctic:

1. If you don't want Atlanta to call you while in the Arctic, leave your phone at home. Your mobile and blackberry will work.


2. "Lamb" does not necessarily mean "lamb" as we know it. Arctic winds blur the vision and sense of taste.

3. Never leave home without: thermal long johns, thermal top, woollen jumper, windproof fleece
jacket, wool gloves, leather gloves, two pairs of wool/thermal socks, ski mask, wool hat, windproof, wool-insulated trousers, snow boots with 3-inch sole and wool lining, padded windproof snowmobile jumpsuit, woollen hat number 2 OR a viking-hat (Mansson's choice) OR Snowmobile-helmet-with-windguard OR all of the above (if you can find a size big enough -- I tried!)

4. 4C with windchill is still freezing. 4C in the Arctic does NOT equal "Arctic summer", as Becky and I found.

5. Hotel bedroom slippers are the apparel of choice in Spitsbergen hotels/restaurants; just make sure they match your cocktail dress (ALL outdoor shoes are BANNED from all indoor places in Spitsbergen).

6. Polar bears are not always cute and cuddly.

Watch a report by Becky Anderson about her trip: Becky's Briefing

From Leone Lakhani, CNN International Producer
Wednesday, April 18, 2007
The Road to Baghdad

The pharmacy at Amman's Hotel Intercontinental stocks almost nothing but anti-depressants. Dwarfing a handful of sunblocks and shampoos are shelves packed with Prozac and Zoloft.

"It's for the people coming out of Iraq," explains the pharmacist. "They just see things they've never seen before - they ask for these things."

It is almost four years since I was last in Jordan. Then I was getting out of Iraq after months reporting the build-up and onset of the war.

Now, Amman is groaning under a population boom. In the last 18 months, two million Iraqis have fled their country. They are disproportionately Iraq's educated and middle classes, who now eke out a wretched existence in Syria and here in Jordan.

The young man brewing me a glass of tea near Amman's two thousand year old Roman amphitheatre is one such refugee. When I tell him I am going to Iraq tomorrow, he laughs with astonishment.

"No, no - don't go!" he says. He shakes his head good-naturedly, and draws a finger across his throat.

But it is an intriguing time to be in Iraq. President Bush's "surge" is underway. The deployment of an extra five brigades to try to bring security to Baghdad will peak in late May. Even John McCain, the Presidential candidate with the strongest enthusiasm for America's presence in Iraq, admits if the "surge' doesn't work, there is no Plan B.

For now, perhaps for the last time, there are more American boots arriving in Iraq than leaving. For the US, it's the last throw of the dice.

-- From Hugh Riminton, CNN International Anchor/Correspondent

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