Wednesday, January 31, 2007
Young lament the dead in Lebanon


I searched the girl’s eyes for a glimmer of understanding.

Funerals are no one’s favorite place, but as a journalist I get to go to more than most.

They can be quite revealing of a situation, at multiple levels, telling you not just about the victim, but the society at large, and this one -- the burial of a young man killed in last week’s clashes between pro- and anti- government protestors at Beirut’s Arab University -- was going to be no different.

On this day, as we drove out of the center of Beirut, the roads were quiet, people still cautious after the blaze of violence that killed four and wounded more than 150 people at the University.

Our route took us along the old airport highway, once bordered by a beautiful beach, now a dense forest of semi-legal apartments, houses, stores and auto workshops that sprang up when Shias from southern Lebanon poured into the capital, after the Israeli invasion in 1982.

A sprawling shantytown capable of keeping secrets: It’s widely believed that American, British, French and other western hostages passed, without notice or remark, through the labyrinthine back streets and alleyways of this urban jungle.

That wasn’t on my mind, however, as we pulled up yards away from what used to be the golden sands. My first impression was not of poverty, rather more of general abandonment. This was a world apart from the wealthy mansions on the mountains a few miles away, looking down – in every sense of the words – on this and other neighborhoods like it.

Within seconds of stepping from our vehicle, we were accosted by a man on scooter with a two-way radio. Who were we, what were we doing, he asked and we told him, CNN, here to cover the funeral. He politely asked us to wait and returned a few moments later with two burly men. Hezbollah security. They were controlling the funeral and we needed their permission to film. It was granted in an instant. It’s not always that easy. I later found out our chaperones were told we were “untouchable”-- that is, not matter how angry mourners got, we were not to be hassled. And they could not have been more diligent, keeping us ahead of the crowd, and those times when we slipped back, maneuvering us with ease through the tight packed arms and elbows in to the best position to shoot.

Hezbollah’s leadership had clearly decided it was in their interests to let journalists see the pain and suffering in their community. They had also quite clearly decided not to let us film the guns fired at the graveside. I couldn’t see them, but I could sure hear them and see the smoke rise over the gathered heads.

Hezbollah has a shrewd and tightly- controlled media operation, enough to put some
corporations and even governments we deal with to shame.

But if our access was managed, the emotions of the dead man’s family were not. His wife, pregnant with his unborn child, called for revenge. His brother, who had been carried by two men through the length of the wake collapsed, a shambles, no more a man, slumped legs dangling in to the freshly dug hole. He had to be taken away.

But this wasn’t the emotional trigger I had feared. What brought tears to the eyes of even the most embittered of onlookers was the dead man’s daughter. She could barely have been three. She came with her brother, perhaps all of five.

Her mother, sitting by the grave flailed about, wailing, the crowd echoed to get the children away. They stood what felt like an eternity looking at they knew not what. The hole, the crowd, their mother, the men holding them. I searched the girl’s eyes for a glimmer of understanding.

Only raw, red swelling, a mirror of her mother. Next to me, tears ran down a translator's face. In that instant shone every reason not to go to war.

As we moved away, out of the human press surrounding the grave, we came to a different part of the crowd. Their murmuring washed over me like a gentle wave and the intensity of the isolated graveside solitude receded.

It was then I realized that while most of the faces at the graveside were young, the faces of those here in this group were older. They’d seen it all before. Buried generations of brothers, fathers, sons and cousins before. Been through a civil war, knew what could come. It was the young who were at the grave side, it was the young who were lamenting the dead, it was the young simmering in the hatred of the other side that accompanies loss in this way.

If what is happening in Lebanon heralds the start of a wider conflict to come, as many fear, then a fresh cycle of it was forged here in this cemetery.

As large as several football fields, it is already a final accounting for many who’d left their homes in the south during the last civil war. As we exited the graveyard and turned up a tiny alley, we passed the victim’s brother, sitting on a green plastic chair outside a store, his feet resting on another chair.

Some color had returned to his face. As we walked on, I thought about how elsewhere in Lebanon that day, other young men were being buried, young men killed in the university clashes. More brothers, wives, mothers -- more children-- bereaved and bereft and not just where Hezbollah could open the door and put them on display, but from other traditions too.

Everyone loses. Hard not to conclude the seeds of the next conflict are being sown.
So what was in the eyes of your "escorts"? Nothing, I suspect, that would offer any hint of compassion or concern for the dead, and living, at this funeral. Certainly nothing for the dead, and living, on the other side. The people who are originating these funerals are the people you are championing, again.
This story is absolutely heartbreaking.
I am yet to come to terms why Human Beings possess such a great propensity to destroy itself in his bid to "serve" God.I am of the opinion that God if He need to destroy mankind can do it in a neater and quicker method.I pray that may we know God the way He should be known
Thanks Nic,

Your reporting shows a depth of understanding of the region and its history and also its soul. I also appreciated the apolitical human perspective you brought to the topic.
It seems that this conflict is not God's to resolve. let us hope that strong leadership and the wear on the human heart will draw this cycle to a close. The resolution lies deep in the religion - understanding and living it.
evil begets evil. violence begets violence. the struggle to find compassion in times of grief or tragedy is often a harder war to win than the one that caused the problems to begin with. If only we could see, with eyes unclouded, that we are ALL doing the best we can, with what we have. That, should be enough.
interesting. detailed account of burial in lebanon, but not so in israel. is CNN caught up in "TAQIYAA" ?? the only "innocents" muslims recognise are muslims; americans and isralies are not considered "innocents" and thus open season on them. each time americans or isralies are killed, celebration time!
how many thousands of katuysa rockets were fired indescriminately into israel? but isralie casualties are taboo for CNN. each jewish woman and child killed are cause for celebration, as they will then not bear more children, and the child will not grow up to become a soldier. this is the view of mulim's.
What is there in this young girls eyes to understand other then utter misery and hopelessness brought by an impoverished existing? Yes, gone is the scenic beach Hwy. to Beirut's Airport....replaced by cluster of sprawling shantytowns occupied by poor migrants Shias from Southern Lebanon fleeing Israeli's wrath... And yes, indeed a world apart from the wealthy mansions on the mountains only a few miles away...

Wake up media, Wake up world....Lebanon has a social CLASS problem that has been neglected by its government for generations!...With the recent billions of dollars donated to the Lebanese government, some of that money will be going into rebuilding the cities infrastructures destroyed by the Israelis, but will they be rebuilding homes & business to those Lebanese citizens who lost there livelihood? Will the government invest in social programs? Create job training and "equal" job opportunities for the young? Will the billions poured into the country provide community services in some of the poorest neighborhoods?, services such as basic human necessities (clean tab water, electricity, weekly street sweeping & trash pick ups, to mention a few)..How about investing some of that money in elevating the standard of Lebanon's State public school education, to a competitive global high standard and accommodate Lebanese students from ALL walks of life. (In Lebanon, the poor attends State run public schools and has slim chance of prosperous future)....

OK, I figured by the time the government receives its donated billions, a good percentage of it will be squabbled into private investments, build a few more private beach resorts here and there (gotta improve there touristy image!!), and oups... yes, few more private owned lavish mansions on the mountains looking down on shantytowns...

Lebanon wonders why its young university students are so disgruntled?.Take a good look at this young girls face...Perhaps you will find the answers.
Lebanon used to be the "paris of the middle east". a beautiful place. that was when the christians were in the majority. then, over time, muslims became the majority. then came a time of chaos, where to be a christian was considered a death sentence. islam mullahs do not want education for women; after all, they (women) are only property and have not rights at all. researching the history of what happened in lebanon is eye-opening. christians lived in harmony with muslims, until the muslims became the "majority", to islam ALL other religions are as dirt, and non are worthy of living. even now in England, 33% of muslim youths now want to be governed by "sharia" law, and NOT by the laws of england. hatred and animosity are taught at every mosque around the world. against the "great satan" (america) and the "lesser satan" (israel). islam has one voice to talk with the west with, involving "TAQIYYA", which is literally lying and deceit to protect and further the islamic faith.
the other voice that islam talks with is spoken in the mosques; death and destruction to america and israel. and islam itself offers only 3 (three) ways of dealing with unbelievers:
1. convert them to islam
2. make them slaves
3. kill them.
and any muslim that converts to another religion is to be killed.
and we who are unbelievers are in the eyes of islam: KUFFAR !
check out TAQIYYA and KUFFAR and learn !
I'm an Australian of Christian Lebanese descent. I've pondered this thought for a long time but never truly thought that I would one day say it. Lebanon prospered under christian majority. They had no problem living alongside Muslims. But when the muslims become the majority, all of a sudden it becoms a problem living with the christians. I'm just going to go right ahead and say it: the Muslims ruined Lebanon. The made it the mess it is today.
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