October 20, 1999
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NEW ORLEANS (AP) -- New Orleans, which labels itself the most haunted city in the nation, has no trouble living up to the reputation.

With its elaborate cemeteries known as "Cities of the Dead," its ancient buildings, moss-draped trees and colorful history full of flamboyant characters and violent events, lovers of the occult are constantly inspired. Small wonder that Halloween has become a major holiday in the Crescent City.

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"We have haunted houses, haunted streets, haunted bars, haunted restaurants, haunted theaters," said Mary Millan, who operates tours that cover everything from the city's haunted sites to voodoo ceremonies to the aboveground cemeteries. "This place is a ghost home."

For centuries the cultures brought here from dozens of countries have lived and died in a city surrounded by water and swampland. Mix in a history of yellow fever epidemics, duels, illicit loves, greed, war and depravity and you have, believers say, a breeding ground for legend and hauntings.

"The city is steeped in death since its conception," says Robert Florence, author of "New Orleans Cemeteries" and "The Cities of the Dead." "We've had epidemics, yellow fever that wiped out thousands, hurricanes, floods, wars. It was a struggle to live here and that left us with a lot of tales of restless spirits."

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Finding haunts in the city is easy. Tours offer visits to well-known haunted houses and locations throughout the French Quarter. Many are conducted at night when the narrow, twisting streets are appropriately draped in shadow.

The city's cemeteries, with their rows of tombs, many with tiny lawns and fences surrounding them, are open to the public.

St. Louis No. 1, the oldest cemetery, houses the tomb believed to be that of Marie Laveau, the fabled voodoo priestess. It is best visited with a tour because of a number of crimes committed against tourists there. But other cemeteries, including Metairie Cemetery, which features the most elaborate tombs and statues and is on the National Register of Historic Places, are safe to wander without a guide.

Metairie Cemetery offers tape-recorded tours that detail three areas for visits. They can be obtained free at the cemetery office.

There are voodoo tours, vampire tours, spirit tours and a variety of haunted house tours. They costs about $15 for adults, less for students and senior citizens, and are conducted from 8 a.m. until midnight.

There are even swamp tours that promise looks at monsters and legends. "We've got ghosts everywhere," says Cathleen Grant, owner of New Orleans Spirit Tours. "They're uptown, out in the bayou, in the French Quarter. Ask anyone who lives here and they'll tell you about one."

For those with a historic bent, the Cabildo, a French Quarter museum where the Louisiana Purchase was signed, holds its "Ghostly Gallivant" October 30-31. The tour of private buildings and courtyards in the French Quarter has costumed historical characters at each stop to provide a history lesson.

"It's not frightening, people bring their children," says Barbara Hyland of the Friends of the Cabildo. "But it gives you a great feel for the events and people that make New Orleans so exciting."

Families will find a wide range of spooky happenings suitable for children, including a pumpkin carving and decorating contest in the French Market, a celebration by the Louisiana Children's Museum, "Boo at the Zoo," a party for kids at the Audubon Zoo, "Scary'um at the Aquarium," which features story telling, art activities and puppet shows at the Aquarium of the Americas, and even a picnic at one of the cemeteries.

During the picnic, participants will weed the grounds and whitewash tombs in preparation for "All Saints Day," the day after Halloween, a New Orleans tradition.

Bars welcome costumed customers, streets are haunted by guests in ghastly garb and parties celebrate the witching hour all night long.

But, more and more Halloween in New Orleans has become an adult holiday.

Bars welcome costumed customers, streets are haunted by guests in ghastly garb and parties celebrate the witching hour all night long.

One of the most famous is the "Gathering of the Coven," hosted by novelist Anne Rice's Vampire Lestat Fan Club. The party, which began in 1988 with about 150 people, will have upwards of 3,000 at the State Palace Theater this year. Tickets are $27.50 and available from Ticketmaster.

Costumes are not mandatory, but those without them will feel out of place. Rice is expected to make an appearance. She usually does and last year spent time talking to guests and answering questions.

The Voodoo Music Festival on October 31 will have live music on three stages. Tickets are $19.

The 27th annual All Hallows Eve Voodoo ritual will present an authentic voodoo ritual and Creole voodoo traditions. It is open to the public. Information can be obtained at the Voodoo Museum in the French Quarter.

New Orleans also has become a major holiday for gay people. "Halloween 16," a four-day celebration that begins October 28, will feature events ranging from a cocktail party and buffet to a costume and dance extravaganza and gospel concert. It benefits Lazarus House, an AIDS hospice.

If you prefer communing with your spirits in a quieter atmosphere, stop by Lafitte's Blacksmith Shop, a French Quarter bar alleged to be haunted by a number of ghosts, including the famous pirate and "E.J," a longtime patron who met his wife and proposed to her at the bar. Legend has it that he told her on his death bed he'd wait for her at the bar.

For a haunting in sumptuous surroundings, Brennan's, the famous French Quarter restaurant, offers it's red dining room. Tucked away upstairs and lit by gas chandeliers, the room was the scene of a murder-suicide during the Civil War when the owner of the house killed his wife and son then hanged himself from the elaborate brass chandelier.

"I've seen the ghost there myself," says David Sledd, a waiter at Brennan's for 23 years. "The cleaning crew won't go in there at night, but a lot of people request that room for dinner. They hope to see the ghost.

Getting there: New Orleans is served by a number of airlines, including Delta, American, United, U.S. Air, Continental, TWA, Southwest and Air Canada.

Getting around: The city is compact. The French Quarter is within easy walking distance of most hotels, so unless you stay in one of the suburbs, such as Metairie or an airport hotel, a rental car is not needed.

Taxi fares are reasonable, with most in-city trips under $10. Taxis from the airport to mid-city cost $21 for one or two people, $8 each for three or more.

Accommodations: There are 20,000 hotel rooms in New Orleans. Room rates range from about $59 to $200 a night.

Dining: Restaurants run from high-end chic to neighborhood spots. In a city that prides itself on food, almost any restaurant offers tasty dishes.

Cafe du Monde on the bank of the Mississippi River in the French Quarter is a must for cafe au lait and beignets, a New Orleans tradition. The rich, cream-laced coffee is $1.20. An order of three beignets, a hot fried pastry similar to a doughnut topped with powered sugar, is $1.20. The restaurant is open 24 hours a day, making it a favorite for late night snacks and breakfasts. It also offers views of many street performers and a good place for people watching.

Breakfast at Brennan's, an elegant tradition, will cost $35 for a three-course meal that features an appetizer such as baked apple with cream, an egg dish such as eggs Benedict, and bananas Foster for dessert.

Weather: Temperatures in New Orleans in October are normally pleasant, ranging from the upper 70s in the daytime, the low 50s at night. Rain is always a possibility in the sub-tropical climate.

Information: The New Orleans Tourism Marketing Corporation can be reached at 365 Canal St., One Canal Place, Suite 2020, New Orleans, Louisiana. The phone number is (800) 584-3166. The Web site is www.neworleansonline.com.

Copyright 1999   The Associated Press. All rights reserved.