Denali National Park SEE ALSO From our archives: Alaska journal (with photos and 360 ° images) Message board: Choosing a cruise

August 6, 1999
Web posted at: 3:58 p.m. EDT (1958 GMT)

By Jennifer Merin

(Los Angeles Times Syndicate) -- Perhaps it's last minute, but consider heading to Alaska and the Yukon during August and September.

Heading the list of compelling reasons to tour North America's Northwest corner late in the tourist season: slashed prices.

You'll pay up to 25 percent less than you would for the same trip in June or July -- and the cruise line Holland America offers last-minute deals -- two-for-one fares or free airfares -- from various gateway cities.

Fall comes early to Alaska and the Yukon, and visitors are treated to a gorgeous display of amber, red and burgundy leaves. Additionally, the 20-hour daylight fades with summer, and the shorter days provide the opportunity to view the Northern Lights, the mysterious rays of light that dance across the darkened skies.

In Alaska and the Yukon, a cruise-and-land tour gives you a bit of the best of everything and is a convenient and economical way to go. When you let the bus driver take the wheel, you free yourself to play tourist full time. And when you raft down a river or ride a scenic narrow-gauge railroad, you don't have to retrace your route to reclaim your car.

Holland America, Westours and Gray Line of Alaska team up to offer varied Alaska and Yukon itineraries that combine Inside Passage cruises with rides along historic railways, "flight-seeing" and driving the scenic byways in motorcoaches.

You can begin the voyage aboard the Westerdam or another Holland America ship, but for a better-paced, more relaxing journey, board the ship after you've exhausted your land legs touring the interior. That way, you visit national parks, wilderness preserves and remote towns, moving from hotel to hotel at the start of the trip -- and then can spend the last days of your vacation aboard ship, sleeping in one bed and repacking just one more time -- for the flight home.

Anchorage is Alaska's capital and gateway city, but you'll want to get to the countryside as quickly as possible. Head for nearby Portage Glacier, a massive, actively calving field of ice, and take an hour's boat ride around the lake formed at its base. Stay overnight at the Alyeska Prince Hotel, a resort hideaway surrounded by soaring peaks. Pick wildflowers and berries along wilderness trails, take the thrilling Alyeska cable car to the mountaintop and dine at the scenic Seven Glaciers Restaurant.

The next day, visit the Alaska Native Heritage Center. New this year, the center features storytellers who impart native legends and describe traditional ways of life in Alaska. There are also exhibits and demonstrations of the arts, crafts and lifestyles of different native Alaskan groups, including the Aleuts, Inuits, Yupics and others. The grounds have authentic native dwellings, and guides in native attire tell the history of their people and discuss traditional construction of the shelters, use of tools, and fishing and hunting techniques.

Mount McKinley can remain hidden by fog for days on end. But when the sky clears, you find it's worth the wait

Stay overnight at the Talkeetna Alaskan Lodge, a new hotel with free shuttle rides to Talkeetna, a village with two streets lined with craft and T-shirt shops. Talkeetna is home to Mahay's Jet Boats, offering breezy river excursions for viewing flora and fauna. Spot bald eagles, beavers, moose and bears along the river banks. During a short wilderness hike, naturalists discuss traditional medicinal uses of native plants and herbs.

Next day, try to catch a glimpse of mist-shrouded Denali -- the mighty Mt. McKinley -- and take a guided walking tour through the surrounding wilderness. Visit the Goose Lake Kennels of three-time dogsled Iditarod champion Jeff King. Then board the glass-domed sightseeing cars of the historic McKinley Explorer luxury railroad for a ride to Fairbanks.

Fairbanks has an interesting experimental garden run by the university, but it's on the town's outskirts. Downtown is industrial and a bit seedy -- a good place to catch up on your sleep.

En route from Fairbanks to the Yukon's Dawson City, visit Gold Dredge No. 8, a historic gold-mining platform that was used until the 1950s. After the tour, you can pan for gold nuggets and keep what you find.

Take a small plane or a motorcoach to the remote and tiny town of Eagle to board Yukon Queen II, a recently inaugurated river boat, for a dinner cruise across the U.S.-Canada border. Disembark in Dawson City, a charming Yukon frontier town that has boardwalks, instead of concrete sidewalks. Weathered buildings house saloons, with nightly stage shows, and shops filled with crafts, local souvenirs and antiques.

Fly from Dawson City to Whitehorse, Yukon Territory's stylish provincial capital. Lots of art galleries, restaurants and shops where you can replenish your stock of camera batteries and other necessaries.

Take a breathtaking narrow-gauge railroad, recrossing the border to enter the United States. Sit on the car's right for best views of high tundra and of thundering waterfalls that careen down the faces of rocky cliffs and tumble into rivers rushing through deep ravines. In Skagway, which is sort of the U.S. version of Dawson City, take the Skagway Streetcar Company's tours of town. You'll ride around in 14-passenger 1930's taxis chauffeured by guides attired in a long dress, bloomers, gloves and picture-pretty straw hats, learning Skagway lore and loving it.

Embark from Skagway to cruise the Inside Passage, visiting Glacier Bay, calling at Ketchikan for scenic flightseeing, local bus tours to Native American communities and kayaking excursions, and arriving at Vancouver, British Columbia's beautiful, sophisticated capital.

If you can't manage to get away this year, consider booking early for next year. If lower prices become available before your departure date, Holland America will give you the lower rate. For brochures with suggested itineraries, call 800-426-6593. For Holland America and Westours information, prices and reservations, call 800-426-0327. For Gray Line of Alaska information and reservations, call 800-544-2206.

Copyright © 1999, Jennifer Merin
Distributed by Los Angeles Times Syndicate

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