The Twin Dolphin's prime location allows guests to see whales right from their shore-side cabins

Visitors can explore the desert on the hiking trails

April 15, 1999
Web posted at: 3:56 p.m. EDT (1956 GMT)

Photos and story by Colleen McEdwards
Special to CNN Interactive

(CNN) -- The porter hadn't gathered up our luggage at check-in when we first heard the "oohs" and "ahs" coming from the poolside deck. At the Hotel Twin Dolphin on Baja's windy tip, the pool is perched on a cliff overlooking the Sea of Cortez and, at this time of year, all the whales you'd ever hope to see.

Not long into our five-day stay, my companion and I began to call sitting by the pool or looking out the glass doors of our room "Whale TV."

"It's the best whale-watching season we've had in nine years," the hotel receptionist told us. It wasn't hard to believe.

Nine different species head to the Baja between January and April to nurse their young where the Sea of Cortez and the Pacific meet. And all day, from the comfort of the shore, we could see them passing like so much traffic. A burst of spray to the left, another to the right, then a few moments later, a dorsal fin and the graceful sweep of a tail a mere thousand feet offshore.

The Twin Dolphin provides telescopes on tripods for its guests. It's in a prime location, so close to shore, so high on that cliff. And with no other hotels in sight, this one lives up to its billing: small, private and luxurious. Its 50 rooms are more like individual cabins, steps from the shore, and it brags of having "the most photographed pool in the world."

But at this time of year, the only cameras on deck appear to be pointed toward the whales. If you've dreamed of watching them in their natural state, not harassed by boats, or if the idea of zooming after one in a Zodiac makes you seasick, then this is your place. From the safety and comfort of shore you can experience the whales, peaceful, quiet, blowing gently, rolling along alone or sometimes in pairs.

The Mexican state of Baja California Sur's tip is rugged and beautiful, a mecca for serious marlin fishers, desert walkers and whale watchers. The nearby town of Cabo San Lucas is a typically blemished tourist town. There's a Planet Hollywood and (gasp!) the golden arches. If you're looking for night-life you'll find it. If you're looking for peace and quiet, one trip to shop will be more than enough. It's become known as the most expensive place in Mexico. Prices approximate what you'd expect to pay at good restaurants in the United States. Alcohol is also priced for the U.S. market.

What's more, Cabo San Lucas has been overrun by time-share salespeople -- "hawkers," the local newspaper calls them, dubbing them "a sub-species of mankind." They start to hit on you as soon as you arrive at the airport, promising free dinner, free drinks, a Mexican blanket, if you'll only tour (with your husband of course) the newest Baja hotel. In town, innocent travelers might want to book a whale-watching boat tour, only to be told they can have the tour "free" if they'll take a one hour tour of a new hotel "in the hope," the sales pitch goes, "you'll tell a friend about it."

Land's End, at the tip of Baja, has great snorkeling if the winds are calm

Of course, the tour turns out to be a vigorous sales pitch for the time share. We took ours, curious to know if the local media were over-stating the problem. Our congenial tour guide promised we would still be friends even if we opted not to spend thousands of dollars, on the spot, on property we'd never seen. We almost weren't friends, in the end. Some harsh words were required to secure our exit after more than an hour of the hard sell had elapsed. To their credit, the marketers made good on the promise for a free boat trip. Was it worth it? Well, that depends on whether that kind of encounter makes you feel triumphant or tainted.

Most of the hotels around Cabo San Lucas will arrange a shopping, deep-sea fishing, whale-watching or desert tour for you. Agencies like Xplora (2-90-00, ext. 9316) and Los Delfines (2-32-47) provide complete services to book your excursions. You can also negotiate, in pesos, with the operators of tiny (and I mean tiny) fishing boats which line the marina. They'll gladly race you toward feeding whales, another disturbance that's received criticism in the local media.

Baja's tip is not the part of Mexico you want to see if you're interested in ancient ruins, or if the purpose of your trip is to come away with a more nuanced view of the world. It's the place for desert hikes, snorkeling, game fishing and yachting. Golf has come a long way in this area, since the first nine-hole course was built in 1988. But many courses are still in their infancy.

The most graceful thing about the southernmost point of Baja has to be the whales: their abundance, and the chance to watch them, uninhibited in their rightful place -- from our rightful place, on the shore. At this time of year, at the hotels that form a horseshoe around Baja's tip, "Whale TV" is a channel well worth watching.

Climate: Be prepared for Baja's hot, dry climate. Plan to do your desert walking in the mornings or evenings. For long hikes or adventurous desert exploring, good footwear is a must, both for comfort and for safety on rough terrain, home to snakes.

Boating tips: If you plan to watch whales by boat or do any deep-sea fishing, windbreakers are recommended for protection from the strong breezes. Most fleets operate out of the main dock in the Los Cabos Marina, or at Medano Beach. Most operators maintain a "catch and release" policy, encouraging anglers to tag and throw back fish they don't intend to eat.

Water activities: In Los Cabos, almost all roads lead to the water. Best beaches include El Medano just north of the town. Snorkeling is excellent at Playa del Amor (Lovers' Beach) and, if the winds are calm, in a small cove at Land's End. Experienced divers also frequent this spot. Most hotels provide decent equipment. About seven miles north of Cabo San Lucas, Playa Santa Maria is a beautiful stretch of sand bordered by towering cliffs. The best waves for surfing are at Costa Azul, between San Jose del Cabo and Cabo San Lucas.

Hotel: Twin Dolphin's reservation number is (800) 421-8925 or (Los Angeles office) (213) 386-3940. The direct number (Mexico) is 011-52-114-581-90

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