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Pursuits

White House Desserts
From top to bottom: Jackson served a traditional crème brûlée, Carter favored Pecan Maple Diamonds and Roosevelt loved Blueberry Chambord Icebox Pudding

What's cooking at the White House?

Get an inside look at the executive mansion's dessert menu ... and the china closet, too

June 17, 1998
Web posted at: 1:05 p.m. EST (1805 GMT)

WASHINGTON (CNN) -- Political parties in Washington, especially official festivities at the White House, are famous for serving up pomp and circumstance.

And since 1801, when John and Abigail Adams first opened the doors to the White House, important decisions have to be made over dinner ... and dessert.

That's the part that interested Chocolatier Magazine. Their research revealed some very distinctive presidential preferences on sweets.

"Andrew Jackson served a traditional crème brûlée, what they called a 'burnt creme' at the time," says the magazine's Dede Wilson.

Franklin Delano Roosevelt loved blueberries -- particularly in a summer dish called Blueberry Chambord Icebox Pudding.

More than a century before, one of the nation's favorite frosty treats began its rise to fame at the White House. Ice cream was first brought to the United States, Wilson says, by Thomas Jefferson.

"He had brought back (an ice cream maker) from France -- he spent many years in Paris -- (and) he told his cooks to put custard in this contraption, and they made ice cream," she says.

Life experience tends to show in presidential desserts. During the Kennedy administration, First Lady Jacqueline brought a European flair to desserts, like pâte à choux (cream puffs) and baked Alaska.

And President Jimmy Carter favored Pecan Maple Diamonds, using a prime crop of his home state of Georgia.

When Ronald Reagan was president, coconut desserts ruled. "He was a texture freak," explains Wilson. "He liked anything crunchy."

These days, White House desserts tend toward fruit.

"President Clinton is allergic to chocolate, and apparently dairy and wheat, so the desserts are heavily fruit-based," says Wilson.

Presidential China
Presidental china (from top to bottom) Mrs. Lincoln ordered purple china, Truman's china matched the state dining room walls and Wilson's china is now one of the patterns used by the Clintons

The other China

As President Clinton readies for his trip this month, there is talk in political circles of China. Set Momjian, former U.S. ambassador to the United Nations under President Carter, is an expert ... on the kind around the dinner table, that is, not around the world.

With more than 300 pieces, Momjian owns the largest presidential china collection outside of the White House. No easy hobby -- after Dwight D. Eisenhower took office in 1953, it became law that the china was a part of the White House art collection, and could not be removed.

Each executive chief is allowed to order a pattern. But the results have, at times, left a sour taste in some people's mouths.

"Mary Todd Lincoln ordered purple china," says Momjian, "and the press and the people complained she thought she was royalty."

Eleanor Roosevelt's china also brought criticism.

"(She) ordered china with a nautical theme, but around the blue border, she put a filigree of a rose and three feathers, which was a foreign coat of arms on the china of an American president," he says.

The Kennedys used Benjamin Harrison's china. Harry Truman had his made to match the state dining room walls. But not every president has a pattern.

"A lot of presidents feel they will order it in their second term, which never comes: Nixon was drummed out of office; Ford thought he would be re-elected," says Momjian.

Even in its second term, the Bill Clinton White House does not have a china pattern.

"Instead of ordering china of her own, (Hillary Clinton) brought the Wilson, the Roosevelt and Truman orders up to their original quantities."

Whether creating tradition or maintaining it, these epicurean choices will remain with the White House long after its current occupants have moved on.

Food & Health Correspondent Holly Firfer contributed to this report.



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