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Beds on a budget

The city is full of inexpensive establishments bound to satisfy even the most finicky travelers. The cluttered artistic look, however, seems to be making a resurgence in the budget hotels of La Paz. A student of Mexican folk art could skip the Museo Antropológico and tour the lobbies of these hotels instead.

CREA Youth Hostel (tel. 2-46-15), in Forjatero youth center, near the Technical University and at the 3km mark on the Transpeninsular Highway. The hostel offers small, clean rooms with bunk beds, bathrooms, and A/C, as well as a huge swimming pool, volleyball court, and a small eatery (open daily 7am-11pm). The only drawback is that it is terribly far from the center of town, approximately a 12-peso taxi ride (all rooms 30 pesos per person, 10% discount with HI card).

Pensión California Casa de Huéspedes (tel. 2-28-96), Degollado at Madero. Bungalow rooms have concrete floors and beds on concrete slabs, but you have to admire the plastic turtle sculpture, sea shells, and dysfunctional washing machine. Prices include private baths and use of the communal kitchen and TV. If you're lucky, you might get a room that has a huge tree trunk running through the bathroom shower.Hotel Yeneka Bring your own blanket. Padlocks on the doors provide security. Singles 45 pesos. Doubles 60 pesos. HosterÍa del Convento (tel. 2-35-08), across the street, belongs to the same owner and offers an identical setup.

Hotel Yeneka, Madero 1520 (tel. 5-46-88), between 16 de Septiembre and Independencia. Potentially the most unique hotel in all of Baja. It doubles as a museum of eccentric items: a 1916 model-T Ford, a pet hawk, and a live monkey who lives in the trees. Each Tarzan-hut room has been remodeled in matching twig furniture and painted fully with rainbow colors. All rooms come with fans, and the lucky few with small balconies. Singles 95 pesos. Doubles 135 pesos.

Hotel Posada San Miguel, B. Domínguez 151 (tel. 2-18-02), just off 16 de Septiembre. Fountained courtyards, tiled arches, and wrought-iron scrollwork on windows and railings. Cubical rooms with sinks and large, comfortable beds. Singles 55 pesos. Doubles 75 pesos. Triples 95 pesos.




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