Waimea Canyon

Story and photos by Sherry Rauh
Special Correspondent

(CNN) -- Many people who have been to the Hawaiian Islands will tell you Kauai is the most beautiful -- that it's less touristy and more magical than the other islands. Yet, as more people choose to seek out that magic, it becomes harder to find.

Driving north from the airport in Lihue, visitors will now be confronted with rows of t-shirt shops and kayak rentals. It's not really overcrowded, though it's far from the ideal of an untouched Hawaiian paradise. While Kapaa has plenty of restaurants and shops, it has little to offer those seeking a peaceful retreat or outdoor adventure. Hanalei Bay, on the northern coast, is pretty, but seems to exist only to serve tourists.

Fortunately, there is much more to Kauai than the towns and resorts along its main coastal highway. Where it is less developed, the island's raw physical beauty is stunning. Adventurous travelers need only head south and west.

Waimea Canyon
It's hard to believe you are on an island, let alone little Kauai, when you stare down into the deep, jagged Waimea Canyon. There are several impressive views from the rim of the gorge, along the road leading to Kokee State Park. Visitors who want a closer look can take the long, strenuous hike into and out of the canyon.

Kalalau Valley

Polihale Beach

Kokee State Park
A lush valley, native rain forest and swampland offer exciting possibilities for hikers, birdwatchers and shutterbugs. Set up camp or stay in the rustic, economical Kokee Lodge. Brave the three-mile (five-kilometer) boardwalk through Alakai Swamp. Or pick from various trails through the park's forest reserves. Don't miss the lookout over beautiful Kalalau Valley.

Kalalau Valley
Standing at 4,000 feet (1,200 meters), looking over the colorful Kalalau Valley as it slopes down to meet the sea, it's easy to understand how the word magical came to describe Kauai. Walk about half an hour to a second lookout for a different view, and for the starting point of a magnificent trail along the valley's rim.

Na Pali Coast
Kauai's northwestern coast is dominated by sheer sea cliffs that attract serious hikers. The Kalalau Trail is an 11-mile (18-kilometer) backpacking trip with primitive overnight camping. If that sounds a bit daunting, you can hike just two miles (3.2 kilometers -- much of it uphill) to a secluded beach. For this adventure, you will have to drive around to the northern part of the island. The trail begins at Haena State Park. While you are on the northern coast, stop at Tunnels Beach if you like to snorkel.

Polihale Beach State Park
Remote and breathtaking Polihale Beach has sand as soft as flour and reddish cliffs rising from the sea. The sound of the aggressive surf makes the otherwise peaceful setting seem surreal. Take in the dramatic sunset and watch as an incredible number of stars fill the sky. To get there, take Highway 50 to Mana village in the far southwest and then follow a five-mile (eight-kilometer) dirt road. There are campsites behind the dunes. If you're searching for genuine Kauai, this may be where you find it.