This reindeer at Little Creek Mining Station calls Nome home

Our day in Kotzebue was as enlightening as it was chilly (39 degrees Fahrenheit, 4 degrees Celsius, mid-August). At the Inupiat Cultural Camp, we learned that native people have survived in northwest Alaska for more than 10,000 years by using natural resources with astonishing creativity: Moose antlers served as food platters; tundra moss was a handy substitute for diapers. Everything was used, right down to the lining of a walrus stomach.

After lunch at the Nullagvik Hotel, complete with ocean view, we attended an impressive presentation at the NANA Museum of the Arctic. We learned about Arctic wildlife and Eskimo culture, listened to stories, watched dances and took part in the traditional blanket toss.

Weather is a very big deal in Alaska, and it often has its own plans. Sea fog kept us from staying overnight at the Nome's Nugget Inn, but we were able to arrive by plane the next day.

"No matter where you roam," a resident told us, "there's no place like Nome."