Venturing to Transylvania

Times stands still in towns on the Romanian plateau

A Transylvanian adventure begins with a stiff shot of Romanian plum brandy and a raging bonfire roasting an assortment of meats. Waiters dressed as Dacians -- ancient Balkan tribesmen -- greet visitors at Poiana Brasov, a town in the heights of Romania's Carpathian Mountains, accompanied by pan flute and accordion.

The welcome feast is part of a package tour, but any traveler to the northwest and central Romanian plateau would find the people of its colorful Hungarian and Saxon villages generous.