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Jean-Paul Gaultier's spring line: Parisian punkette
October 19, 1996
Web posted at: 3:00 p.m. EDT
(CNN) -- For Spring, Paris designer Jean-Paul Gaultier leaves cubism behind and turns to punk -- French punk.
His inspiration is a naive, young Parisian girl who interprets fashion her way.
Gaultier makes it easy for her with a series of Trompe L'Oeil jumpsuits that zip up the back. It's a play on the classic man's suit with the ease of one-step dressing.
(884K / 23sec QuickTime movie)
Gaultier is fascinated with bare backs and for evening his best looks are apron-tied dresses over black pants.
It's a witty, wicked collection with Gaultier packing in at least half a dozen different ideas in each outfit.
"(It's) like a Parisian punkette. You know, originally the punk (were) English so it's the French version of punk which means a kind of bourgeois. A little chic, elegant and (some kind of) accident (can) happen," Gaultier said.
For example, sometimes trousers or skirts are low-waisted so that tights can be seen above them. Shirts are tucked inside fishnet tights.
Gaultier's Trompe L'Oeil idea is something different. It's like a traditional outfit -- jacket, vest, shirt, tie and trousers. It looks like separate pieces, but in reality it's all one piece.
"(But) for women, you put it on as a dress, so you have to put your leg in it. That's it," Gaultier says. "And the zipper on the back and that's it."
Gaultier also does body-conscious jackets with small shoulders that have a masculine edge. He likes revealing long skirts and plays with a new look for layering.
His dresses are like aprons revealing a new open look.
"You go through them and...leave it open," he said. "Everything can be open at the back (of the) trousers."
For evening, Gaultier makes a feminine tuxedo with a skirt and legging.
"I should say it's very much the mixing of tradition of masculinity and very feminine at the same time," he said.
Long dresses are worn with trousers underneath. The ones in shantung Gaultier describes as very quiet and calm, but open at the back.
Gaultier says he's had fun with this collection.
"I think I love that collection and I think (it) is very me in some way," he said. "It's at the same time traditional and not. So I think (that's) what my style (is) in some way."
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