Parks eye strict rock climbing rules

The National Park Service is on the verge of issuing strict rules to regulate nearly every aspect of rock climbing at Joshua Tree National Park

March 2, 1999
Web posted at: 10:45 AM EST

Recreational rock climbing is taking off like never before. And 'wall rats' are flocking to U.S. national parks to scale some of the best rock around. However the increasing popularity of the sport is starting to take its toll on the parks, especially in the West.

At Joshua Tree National Park, for example, the rocks are in trouble. So many climbers are swarming up the sides of them that the National Park Service is on the verge of issuing strict rules to regulate nearly every aspect of the sport, from where climbers can create new trails to how they can affix metal bolts into rocks to anchor their ascent. Even the color of the climbing bolts will be required to match the shades of the rocks.

The changes are stirring debate among conservationists and climbers.

Federal officials believe that growing recreation in national parks and forests is threatening their sanctity, and thus, officials are implementing policies to limit man's impact on nature. Without these rules, officials believe the beauty of the parks will be destroyed by the masses of climbers out for a workout.

Joshua Tree, located about 150 miles east of Los Angeles, is one of the most acclaimed and crowded climbing spots in the country.

"You can destroy the value of something by excess," said Ernest Quintana, Joshua Tree park superintendent. "And for us to keep doing nothing about it would be irresponsible."

Many other parks in the West are beginning to regulate climbing traffic.

In January, officials at Mount Hood National Forest in northern Oregon proposed limits on public access to many of the most popular climbing and hiking trails there. If approved, the restrictions would reduce the number of visitors allowed in some spots during peak periods, such as spring and summer weekends, by 90 percent. Some parts of Mount Hood now draw more than 200 climbers a day during those times. The new plan would allow only 25 a day.

Mount St. Helens in Washington and Pinnacles National Monument in California have also proposed climbing rules, such as banning metal bolts. However, climbers have strongly disputed the rules and have threatened to file lawsuits.

At the half-million-acre Joshua Tree National Park, most visitors come not to climb but to marvel at its freakishly beautiful Joshua trees and its panoramic desert vistas. Some are complaining that it is not easy to commune with nature when small metal bolts are jutting out of rock after rock.

"This is an extremely delicate issue," said Brian Huse, the Pacific Region director for the National Parks and Conservation Association. "There's a lot of emotional investment in recreation out here now, and people keep coming up with new forms of it all the time. Most of the stuff is equipment-intensive, and it has tremendous potential to have an adverse impact on natural resources if we don't start getting more careful."

The problem has escalated in recent years as rock climbing has become more popular. Today, business at climbing schools, stores and magazines is booming.

"Ten years ago, climbing was practically nothing," said Ami Odeen, who regularly climbs at Joshua Tree. "But its popularity keeps growing. I don't think it's out of control yet, but some restrictions may be appropriate. Many of us really want to protect nature, too."

To protect soil and vegetation from being trampled in climbing areas, and to save rock faces from wear and tear, officials at Joshua Tree have been developing the new rules for more than a year. At first, the plan was more severe. It would have prevented climbers from replacing worn bolts and banned new bolts and routes in wilderness areas. But climbing advocates from across Southern California objected.

After contentious hearings, the National Park Service softened its stance. Now, it plans to allow some old bolts to be replaced but only if they are the same shade as the rock. It also will allow a limited number of new routes on rocks, but only if climbers get permission from a newly formed park panel. Using power drills to install bolts in rocks will be prohibited.

Currently, the Park Service does not have a national policy on climbing. But many officials say the blueprint to protect Joshua Tree could become a national model.

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