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Heightened flavor of gourmet salt

January 7, 1997

From Correspondent Carolyn O'Neil

ATLANTA (CNN) -- No matter how you shake it, too much salt isn't good for your health. High intakes of sodium, the mineral in salt, have been linked to high blood pressure, and federal nutrition guidelines recommend limiting salt intake.

So salt lovers are finding ways to make their daily allowance count. They're getting choosy about the kind of salt they use.

For less than 50 cents, you can pick up a container of table salt, iodized and ready to pour. More costly kosher salts and sea salts are gaining ground with gourmets today, though. Whether they come in chunks or flakes, there's a salt to fit every taste bud.

"I use kosher flaked salt, additive free, no anti-caking agents or any of those additives," said Paul Bertolli, a chef at Olivetto's Restaurant in Oakland, California.

And Napa Valley chef Holly Peterson holds out for what she thinks is the best salt in the sea. The rough gray granules of Sea Star Sea Salt are harvested just once a year in Brittany, on the coast of France. The salt is gray because it hasn't been bleached or refined; in fact, if you look closely you can see tiny specks of seaweed, which add to the distinctive briny flavor.

"Basically, this is kind of essence of the ocean itself," Peterson said. "So it's chunky, bring a rolling pin or mortar and pestle for a little finer salt."

Specialty salts do contain sodium, of course. Just because it says "sea salt" or "natural" on the label, doesn't mean you can shake on a lot. But there is a health advantage. Because these salts are often more flavorful, you don't have to use as much.

So don't think of salt as off-limits. In fact, salt may actually be good for your health if a dash of salt gets you to enjoy the taste of fresh salads and vegetables more often.

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