Bubbly 101

In this story: What is the difference between a sparkling wine and Champagne? What are the price ranges and what's the difference between vintage and non-vintage? How do you know what you like? What are sweetness or dosage levels? What is body? Are sparkling wines good with food, or just for toasts? How much will you need? How early should you buy sparkling wine, how do you store it and prepare to serve it? What's hot in sparkling wines and Champagnes? RELATED STORIES, SITES

(CNN) -- A bottle of bubbly often tops shopping lists whenever the word celebration is mentioned. The problem many face, though, is how to tell if a Champagne or a sparkling wine is any good? What should one be looking for on the label? And are expensive sparkling wines really any better?

Below are some answers for the casual drinker on how to choose, buy, care for, open, pour, drink, and of course, enjoy the perfect bottle for any occasion.

Champagne comes from the region of the same name in France. Sparkling wine has been produced in the area since the days of the Roman empire.

Though many people use the term "champagne" to designate all sparkling wines, in truth Champagne is a specific type of French sparkling wine. Champagne comes from the region of the same name in France. The area has produced sparkling wine since the days of the Roman empire, and still bottles some of the best vintages in the world.

The producers of Champagne carefully guard the right to use the name Champagne on a bottle, and have done so since 1891, when the Treaty of Madrid was signed. The treaty declared that only wines made in a particular region could use the name on the bottle. In 1919, the Treaty of Versailles, the peace agreement ending World War I, reaffirmed that rule.

Why, then, do we often see bottles marked "champagne" that are produced in the United States? The U.S. never signed the Treaty of Versailles, but rather had a separate peace agreement with Germany. That agreement did not include regulations regarding spirits. The U.S. was in the midst of Prohibition in 1919 and did not see the need to agree to rules dealing with alcohol, since liquor was banned in the U.S.

Long after prohibition was lifted, some vintners in the U.S. took advantage of the loophole, and bottled American champagne. This is also why you'll see bottles of Burgundy, or Chablis or other French regions adorning the labels of American wines.

The Champagne region, established by law in 1927, is located 90 miles northeast of Paris. It includes over 312 villages.

"Unfortunately in the U.S. far, far, far too many people will use the name Champagne to designate any and every sparkling wine. And honestly I believe it is to everybody's disadvantage," says Jean-Louis Carbonnier, Director of the Champagne Wines Information Bureau.

Carbonnier says it makes it difficult for a consumer to tell where a wine is produced. And region does make a difference when it comes to taste. He believes Champagne flavors are "more complex and less fruity than some other sparkling wines from other regions."

"I think Champagnes will be more refined, have more delicacy of flavor. I would also say generally (true) Champagnes have been aged a little longer," Carbonnier adds.

Many French Champagne houses also operate American vineyards. For example Domaine Chandon is owned by the French house Moët & Chandon, makers of Dom Pérignon. Taittinger has a California sparkling wine under the name Domaine Carneros, and there are many others.

On their labels, these American sparkling wines note that they use the traditional method of producing Champagne called méthode champenoise, but are careful not to call their product Champagne.

Many French Champagne houses also have California vineyards. Domaine Carneros, pictured above, is owned by the French house Taittinger.

According to Iron Horse Vineyards, a California sparkling wine producer, the big difference between a Champagne and an American sparkling wine is in the fruit. Because California enjoys more sunlight hours, Iron Horse claims the fruit is richer and the resulting wine generally drier than many Champagnes.

While that may be true, New York restaurateur Joe Scalice believes many people have the misconception that sparkling wines that aren't Champagne are somehow inferior. "In reality, sparkling wine can be every bit as good as champagne," Scalice says.

Other vintners around the world also bottle their own sparking wines. A quick look at a bottle could clue you in to where the sparkling wine is made. For example, "Vins Moussex," means it is a French sparkling wine made outside the Champagne region. A Spumante is Italian sparkling wine, Sekt is German and a Cava is Spanish.

First let's deal with price. Sparkling wines and Champagnes can range in price from under $10 to well over $2,000.

The bottom line is that if you choose a vintage Champagne, you are going to spend the most money.

Blanc de noir, a sparkling wine varietal, is made entirely from black grapes or Pinot Noir grapes.

A vintage sparkling wine is made of grapes from one specific year. A non-vintage sparkling wine is a blend, or cuvée, of grapes from at least two years.

"You can get something really really fabulous," Scalice says. "I just tasted the Pol Roger Winston Churchill 1998 and my god, it's so delicious. And if you want to have a special celebration, you know, that's the way to go if money is no object."

But if you are looking to serve a Champagne without spending top dollar, you might want to go for a non-vintage Champagne or a sparkling wine from the U.S.

Scalice says the American vineyard Domaine Chandon has a special sparkling wine for the year 2000, called Cuvée 2000, that is "wonderful."

"Don't be afraid to have something that's not expensive," Scalice says. "Just because it doesn't cost a lot of money, doesn't mean it's not good."

Most experts agree the most important thing is to find a good retailer with a wide selection and competitive prices.

The only way to determine what you like is to try several different sparkling wines, but we can give you some suggestions on where to start.

First you need to determine how and when you'll consume the wine. Will it only be used for a toast, will you drink it with dinner, or simply sip the wine with hors d'oeuvres?

"That's going to determine what kind of style you want," Scalice says.

One way to choose a sparkling wine is by varietal. Most Champagnes and sparkling wines are made of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier grapes.

But you could choose a blanc de blanc which is made completely from white grapes, usually Chardonnay. A blanc de blanc is very appropriate for a toast or with light hors d'oeuvres, according to Scalice.

If you are looking for something to go with a meal, you might choose a blanc de noir which is made entirely from black grapes or Pinot Noir grapes.

"This is more meaty on the palate, richer, and can stand up to some food," Scalice adds.

If you want something a bit lighter, sparkling wine can also be chosen by mousse or bubble style. Scalice says a sparkling wine densely packed with bubbles makes for a very thick mousse or head.

If flavor is your greatest concern, Scalice says you should look at the sweetness level.

There are many designations for sweetness levels. Brut nature is considered bone dry, whereas a simple brut has no perceptible sweetness. Though it might seem contrary, extra dry actually isn't as dry as a regular brut. It has a slightly sweet taste. A sec has a noticeable sweetness, while a demi-sec is very sweet. For those who are looking for an extremely sweet sparkling wine, a doux is the answer.

What is body?

Food and wine experts say sparkling wine is not just for celebrations and can be enjoyed any time of year.

Beyond price and the label, lies the idea of style.

"I group champagnes with very broad strokes, they are either light, medium or full," says Michael Green, Wine consultant to Gourmet Magazine and co-founder of Grape Finds, a new retail wine concept in Washington.

Body is an important concept.

For example, the blanc de blanc mentioned above, made only of Chardonnay grapes, tends to have a lighter and crisper body than an older Champagne or sparkling wine. Those can be more full bodied, powerful and concentrated.

"But there is every possible nuance in between," Carbonnier says.

While it is very easy to describe light and full, there are wines that fall between, these are medium bodied.

Carbonnier defines medium as "everything that is not as assertive as certain Champagnes can be, but at the same time is richer and more powerful than a light Champagne."

He says a good way to associate light, medium and full bodied is in terms of food. For example, a light sparkling wine goes with food that is light, crisp and delicate, such as cheese straws, goat cheese or small oysters. A medium bodied wine makes a good accompaniment to fish dishes such a roasted sea bass or sauteed sea scallops. A full bodied wine goes well with foods such fois gras or serano ham, which are richer and have deeper flavors.

Are sparkling wines good with food, or just for toasts?

Food and wine experts say sparkling wine can be enjoyed at any time of year, and is not just for celebrations.

"I am not saying people should drink Champagne everyday, although there is nothing wrong with that," Carbonnier says. "But the point is, it is a wonderful wine, and it is almost silly to only have it once a year. It is not that expensive, it is one of those small luxuries, if you like, that one can afford from time to time."

He fears that because the product has been so closely tied with celebrations and holidays, people have considered it sacred and haven't learned to enjoy it.

"It is a wonderful product," Carbonnier says, "but I think wonderful products are made to be enjoyed as frequently as one can."

How much you need depends on the role champagne will play at a party, dinner or celebration.

For an all night party, or if sparkling wine is the only beverage served, Carbonnier says to provide a bottle per person.

If the gathering will last just a few hours, the rule of thumb is two glasses per person. A bottle serves approximately six glasses, so your needs will be determined by the number of guests.

How early should you buy sparkling wine, and how do you store it, and prepare to serve it?

Because California enjoys more sunlight hours, winemakers from Iron Horse Vineyards, pictured above, claim the fruit is richer and the wine drier than many French sparkling wines.

If stored properly sparkling wines do not go bad, so there is no need to delay purchasing the wine until the last minute.

It should be kept in a cool dark place, preferably on its side so the cork doesn't dry out. Any wild temperature changes should be avoided and it should be kept away from vibrations. The experts say storing it on top of the refrigerator is not a good idea.

Sparkling wine needs to be chilled before it is served. Scalice stresses that it needs to be chilled properly and never thrown into the freezer. Three to four hours in a normal refrigerator should work fine. The wine should be about 45 degrees when it is served. If it is too warm when opened, it will foam excessively and probably not taste as good.

Carbonnier says when he is preparing for a party, he puts as many bottles as he can into the refrigerator early in the day.

"What I have done also, is half and hour or so before the party, if the champagne isn't chilled yet, I would put it in a bucket with ice and water, in a bucket or in the sink to cool it down." Carbonnier says. "And during the party itself I would put bottles that are open back into an ice bucket. I would be sure to provide a napkin so guests can help themselves without making a mess and dripping water."

What's hot in sparkling wines and Champagnes?

According to Green, a Rose sparkling wine is well worth trying. Roses are dry, not sweet, as many assume, and are often the most expensive offerings from Champagne houses. The pink coloring comes from a blending of red wine, usually Pinot Noir.

Other hot items include the growers' own specially bottled champagnes -- made, of course, in France's Champagne region, and well away from the mass-market producers.

The large Champagne houses rarely grow all their own grapes, instead they contract with growers who nuture the fruit in their own vineyards, and sell at harvest time. In some cases, these growers also bottle and sell their own Champagnes.

Green believes these are some of the most exciting products coming from the Champagne region.

"These products are really exciting, not only because they are a little bit more obscure, unique, but they also taste really good," Green says.

Carbonnier agrees that the taste of these wines is distinctive.

"... their blends tend to emphasize a smaller more specific part of the Champagne area. That contributes to making wines that in some ways appear to be more concentrated or somewhat fuller," he said.

In France, many of these Champagnes are purchased directly from the growers. The vineyards have built up their own mailing lists over the years and ship directly to their customers.

It's quite a bit more difficult to find growers' Champagnes outside Europe, but a small number are showing up in American wine shops, and they are relatively easy to identify. The registration number on the label of a grower's Champagne would begin with the letters RM followed by several digits.

"The more cutting edge sommeliers in the United States will have been seeking out some of these smaller Champagne producers, and they are very proud to have one or two of them on their wine lists. And then some of the retailers have been doing the same thing," Carbonnierm says.

So if you are up for the search, exclusive growers' wines may be worth trying. The prices range from moderate to expensive, and are generally competitive with other Champagnes. And a boldly-flavored, exotic bubbly may lift an ordinary toast, a party, or New Year's celebration well beyond the ordinary.