The true national cuisine of Switzerland is a remnant of the time when the country's rural people were among the poorest in Europe. Raclette, rosti, polenta and fondue are all simple meals prepared with easily stored basic food items. Recently, the cuisine has become a mix of dishes from neighboring countries (Austria, Germany, Italy and France). Increasingly, other world cuisines have gained a foothold. Swiss specialties are cheese and meat fondues, geschnetzeltes Kalbfleisch nach Zurcherart (veal in a delicious cream and mushroom sauce), air-dried beef (Bundnerfleisch) and rosti (grated and fried potatoes). Raclette is prepared by melting a slice of semisoft cheese over a fire. The melted cheese is scraped directly onto a plate with a wooden blade and served with new potatoes, gherkins and pickled onions.

In cafes, tea rooms and less expensive restaurants, table sharing is common. If your table has vacant seats, allow other diners to use them. out is very popular in Zurich and therefore it is advisable to make a reservation at the more expensive restaurants—which are the most frequented—or if your party is larger than four people.

Restaurants are obliged by law to display their menus and prices outside. The price you see on the menu is the total price you pay, including a service charge of 15%.

Below is a sampling of restaurants in town. Expect to pay within these general guidelines, based on the cost of dinner for one, not including drinks: $ = 15 Sfr-20 Sfr; $$ = 21 Sfr-35 Sfr; $$$ = 36 Sfr-60 Sfr; $$$$ = more than 60 Sfr.

FAVORITE RESTAURANTS

Blaue Ente—This is one of Zurich's finest restaurants. It's a bright, lively affair set in an old mill on the east shore of Lake Zurich. The house specialty is duck in every form. Daily 9 am-midnight. Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards. Tiefenbrunnen, Seefeldstrasse 223, Zurich. Phone 388-6840.

Ermitage—Ermitage is situated on the shore of Lake Zurich, seven minutes from the city center. Enjoy drinks before dinner in the Beech Club Bar and watch fellow diners arrive at the restaurant's own mooring. Savor the finest cuisine from the south of France with a hint of Italian influence. A spectacular mille-feuille d'artichauts et tomatoes confit makes this place the new favorite. Daily noon-midnight (kitchen closes at 9:45 pm). $$$$. Most major credit cards. Seestrasse 80, Kusnacht, Zurich. Phone 910-5222.

Haus zum Ruden—This guild house—the building dates back to the 13th century—belongs to the hunters' guild. Its emblem is a red hunting hound. The restaurant overlooks Limmatquai and the river. The subtle offerings include small strips of sole "Constaffel style" and a terrine of Flowers of the Woods (wild mushrooms). Monday-Friday 11:30 am-3 pm and 6:30 pm-12:30 am (last orders at 10 pm). Closed Saturday and Sunday. $$$-$$$$. Most major credit cards. Limmatquai 42, Zurich. Phone 261-9566.

Kronenhalle—Highly regarded Continental cuisine. The specialty is sliced veal in a cream sauce with veal sausage. The good service and elegant atmosphere are enhanced by beautiful paintings. Daily noon-midnight. Reservations required. $$$$. Most major credit cards. At Bellevueplatz, Ramistrasse 4, Zurich. Phone 251-6669.

Kropf—Situated in the heart of Zurich, this very old tavern deserves its nickname—"the Bulge"—which refers to the old guild house members who overindulged at dinner and sported bulging stomachs. Various architectural styles have left their mark. The restaurant is renowned for its rich atmospheric decor that depicts historic views of the city and surrounding countryside. Monday-Saturday 10:30 am-11:30 pm. $$$. Most major credit cards. In Gassen 16, Zurich. Phone 221-1805.

Wirtschaft zum Wiesengrund—One of the finest restaurants in the country, this is a wonderful place for a quiet evening. Try the perfect baby lobsters in artichoke vinaigrette, delicate turbot baked to perfection with grilled vegetables and a touch of balsamic vinegar. Open Tuesday-Saturday. Reservations required. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Kleindorfstrasse 61, Zurich. Phone 921-1709.

Zunfthaus zur Zimmerleuten—This old guild house has a marvelous decor. The menu combines Zurich specialties with innovations by the current chef. Daily 11:30 am-2 pm and 6:30 pm-midnight (kitchen closes at 10 pm). $$$-$$$$. Most major credit cards. Limmatquai 40, Zurich. Phone 252-0834.

LOCAL AND REGIONAL SPECIALTIES

Crazy Cow—Within walking distance of the Hauptbahnhof, the Crazy Cow offers Swiss specialties together with international favorites. A popular menu item is the crazy picnic with grilled pork sausage, cheese and Swiss cider served on a patch of green grass. Open daily for lunch and dinner. $$. Most major credit cards. Leonhardstrasse 1, Zurich. Phone 262-4055.

Le Dezaley—This restaurant in the Old Town is famous for wonderful fondues and other Swiss specialties. The service is always good. Monday-Saturday 11 am-11 pm. $$$. Most major credit cards. Romergasse 7/9, Zurich. Phone 251-6129.

Raclette Stube—The Raclette Stube has a charming and cozy atmosphere—great for fondue or raclette. Its Old Town location is just two minutes from the city center. Tuesday-Sunday 11:30 am-11 pm. Reservations required. $$. MasterCard only. Zahringerstrasse 16, Zurich. Phone 251-4130.

Zeughauskeller—Once an arsenal, Zeughauskeller is now a large, popular Swiss restaurant. The menu also features traditional German dishes such as sausages and sauerkraut and Wiener schnitzel, plus a variety of beers. Expect good food and a rowdy atmosphere. Patio dining is available in the spring and summer. Daily 11 am-11 pm (kitchen closes at 9:55 pm). $$. Most major credit cards. At the corner of Bahnhofstrasse 28a and In Gassen 17, Zurich. Phone 211-2690.

Zuri-Stube—In a rustic atmosphere, the Zuri-Stube serves up local specialties including fresh trout. Daily 11:30 am-1:30 pm and 6:30-8:30 pm. $$. Most major credit cards. Steinwiesstrasse 8, Zurich. Phone 267-8702.

ASIAN

Raja Bongo—Vegetarian and nonvegetarian dishes are served at this traditional Indian restaurant. It's located a short walk from Bahnhofstrasse. Monday-Friday 11 am-2 pm and 6-11:30 pm, Saturday 6-11:30 pm. Reservations recommended. $$-$$$, most major credit cards. Zwinglistrasse 3 at Kanonengasse, phone 241-8011.

Sala of Tokyo—Sala offers superb Japanese fare. Tuesday-Saturday 11:45 am-1:45 pm and 6-9:30 pm. $$$$, most major credit cards. Limmatstrasse 29, phone 271-5290.

CAFES AND TEA ROOMS

Cafe Schober—This delightful tearoom serves special Swiss chocolates and desserts—a nice place to stop for a break while walking through the Old Town. A light lunch menu is also offered. The cafe can be hard to find because of the greenery masking its entrance on a dead-end lane. Monday-Friday 8 am-6:30 pm, Saturday 8 am-4:30 pm, Sunday 10 am-5:30 pm. $-$$, most major credit cards. Napfgasse 4, phone 251-8060.

FRENCH

La Brasserie Lipp—This popular, typical French brasserie offers good, reasonably priced food and excellent service in the heart of the shopping area. It's popular with couples who enjoy a romantic night out. Monday-Thursday 9 am-midnight, Friday and Saturday 9 am-1 am, Sunday 11:45 am-11 pm. $$$, most major credit cards. Uraniastrasse 9 (just off Bahnhofstrasse), phone 211-1155.

Mere Catherine—An exquisite little French restaurant, Mere Catherine is simply and tastefully furnished. All manner of French cuisine is on the menu. Daily 11 am-midnight. $$$, no credit cards. Nagelihof 3 (in the center of the Old Town, near the Grossmunster), phone 262-2250.

ITALIAN (INCLUDING PIZZERIAS)

Piccoli-Accademia—Outstanding classic Italian cuisine—the best in Zurich. If you visit during summer, try their antipasta misto with shrimp, sardines, calamari, peppers and other vegetables. If you visit during winter, try the mushroom and goat dishes. Monday-Saturday 11:45 am-2 pm and 6:15 pm-midnight (kitchen closes at 9:45 pm). Reservations recommended. $$$$, most major credit cards. Located about 15 minutes' walking distance from the Hauptbahnhof, between Helvetiaplatz and Zweierplatz. (Tram 8 will take you there as well.) Rotwandstrasse 48, phone 241-6243.

Tre Cucine—This is a great place for lunch in the city. Classic Tuscan pasta is made on the premises. The pizzas and risotto are also good choices. On warm days, it becomes a street cafe. Monday-Friday 11:30 am-2 pm and 6 pm-2 am. Saturday 6 pm-4 am, Sunday 6 pm-2 am. Reservations recommended. $$, most major credit cards. Fraumunsterstrasse 14, phone 211-5750.

SEAFOOD

Lobster Village—Zurich's one and only fresh lobster restaurant is situated near the Kunsthaus. Enjoy lobster, oysters, seafood and Argentine beef tenderloin on the pleasant open-air terrace. Tuesday-Saturday noon-2:30 pm and 6:30-10:30 pm. $$$, no credit cards. Ramistrasse 45, phone 261-8228.

SPANISH

Bodega Espanola—This is a cozy Spanish restaurant in the center of the Old Town. All their dishes are good, but make it a point to try the paella. Monday-Saturday 10 am-12:30 am, reservations required. $$, most major credit cards. Munstergasse 15 (at the far end of Niederdorfstrasse near the Grossmunster), phone 251-2310.

VEGETARIAN

Hilti—Hilti is probably the best-known vegetarian restaurant in Zurich. An evening Indian buffet commences nightly at 5:30 pm, but the restaurant also offers a comprehensive menu and daily salad buffet. Monday-Saturday 7 am-11 pm, Sunday 11 am-11 pm. $$$, most major credit cards. Sihlstrasse 28, phone 227-7000.

ADDITIONAL EXPERIENCES

Movenpick—These restaurants are particularly good for families with small children. You'll find excellent food with a lengthy menu, good service and appealing prices. Fried chicken, salads and hamburgers are just a few of the choices. Many people come in just for a dish of their renowned ice cream. Locations throughout Zurich, all open daily 5:30 am-11:30 pm. $-$$, most major credit cards. One (called Claridenhof) is at Dreikonigstrasse 21, phone 286-5252. Another (called Dreikonighaus) is at Beethovenstrasse 32, phone 286-5353.

Sprungli's—This restaurant and confectionery shop creates delicious, not-to-be-missed Swiss masterpieces of confectionary art. A must is their Luxemburgerli, a mouth-sized, mouth-watering light meringue filled with fresh cream fillings in various flavors. There's a light lunch menu, too. Monday-Friday 7:30 am-6:30 pm, Saturday 8 am-4 pm. The restaurant is closed on Sunday, but the shop is open. $-$$, no credit cards. Bahnhofstrasse 21, phone 252-5757. Also at the airport and in the Hauptbahnfof's underground shopping area.