Staying well fed in Japan can be an expensive proposition, but it doesn't have to be: If menu prices shock you, you can always stop at a noodle shop for a tasty and filling meal of udon (white wheat noodles) or soba (buckwheat noodles). Yakitori (skewered chicken) from the outdoor food stands are a must if your visit is during warm weather. Definitely try the sushi. According to locals, the quality of a sushi shop can be gauged by how crowded it is, so stay away from places that are nearly empty. Other traditional dishes are sukiyaki, shabu-shabu (thinly sliced beef dipped in broth) and tempura.

Tokyo is also famous for its beer gardens—nighttime rooftop restaurants open during the summer months. Guests guzzle down beer and munch on fried snacks as the sun goes down over the city and the skyline lights up. Almost all of the department stores in Tokyo have beer gardens.

When you enter a Japanese eatery, you'll be happy to discover that the language barrier that makes Tokyo so perplexing at times is not a big problem in restaurants—many have plastic displays of menu items for you to point at.

Below is a sampling of restaurants in town. Expect to pay within these general guidelines, based on the cost of a dinner for one and not including drinks, tax or tip: $ = less than ¥2,000; $$ = ¥2,001-¥5,000; $$$ = ¥5,001-¥8,000; and $$$$ = more than ¥8,000.

FAVORITE RESTAURANTS

Ginza Sushi Kou—This sushi restaurant has a rather intimidating appearance, but has been attracting sophisticated sushi lovers for more than 100 years. Private rooms are available. Near Ginza Station, Ginza, Hibiya and Marunouchi subway lines. Monday-Saturday 11:30 am-3 pm and 5-10 pm, closed holidays. $$$$. Most major credit cards. 6-3-8 Ginza, Chuo-ku, Tokyo. Phone 3571-1968.

Hotel De Mikuni—The Hotel De Mikuni is an exquisite French restaurant in a homelike setting, always serving seasonal specialties. Lunch Tuesday-Sunday noon-1:30 pm, dinner Tuesday-Saturday 6-9 pm. Reservations suggested. $$$$. Most major credit cards. 1-18 Wakaba, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo. Phone 3351-3810.

Kakiden—Serving authentic Japanese cuisine (kaiseki) for more than 25 years, there is as much ritual to this restaurant as there is good food. The decor is elegant, tea ceremony-style. Guests sit on traditional tatami mats, but tables are available. Tatami mat banquet rooms are available. Near Shinjuku Station's south exit. Daily 11 am-9 pm, unless the local food markets are closed (most national holidays). $$$-$$$$. Most major credit cards. Yasuyo Building, 3-37-11 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo. Phone 3352-5121.

New York Grill—Considered one of the most exciting new restaurants in Tokyo, it's located on the top (52nd) floor of the Park Hyatt Hotel in Shinjuku. The view from every window is spectacular, especially at night. As the name suggests, the restaurant offers a selection of food that you'd find in a top New York restaurant—from grilled steaks to lobster dishes—but the menu changes constantly. Tall ceilings and a modern, art-deco interior make a dramatic setting. About a 10-minute walk from JR Shinjuku Station. Daily 11 am-2:30 pm and 5-10:30 pm. Reservations recommended. $$$$. Most major credit cards. 3-7-1-2 Nishi-Shinjuku, Tokyo. Phone 5323-3458.

Nobu Tokyo—Located in the most fashionable part of town, this Tokyo branch of the much-talked-about "nouvelle Japonais" restaurant run by Chef Nobu Matsushita attracts Tokyo's expatriate executives and style-conscious Japanese. Menu features an unorthodox Western version of Japanese cuisine. 10 minutes from the Omote-sando Station, Ginza, Hanzomon and Chiyoda subway lines. Daily 11:30 am-10:30 pm. Reservations suggested. $$$$. Most major credit cards. 6-10-17 Minami Aoyama, Minato-ku, Tokyo. Phone 5467-0022.

Rojack—Rojack features Asian cuisine using organic ingredients. The menu changes daily but the curries are highly recommended. Interior is colonial-style from a century ago. Near Omote-sando Station, Chiyoda, Ginza and Hanzomon subway lines. Daily noon-3 pm and 6-11 pm. Reservations recommended. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. 6-3-14 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku, Tokyo. Phone 3409-6764.

Roy's Aoyama Bar and Grill—This restaurant classifies itself as Pan-Pacific, serving up "borderless hybrid cuisine" not from any particular country. Cozy interior has lots of dark wood paneling, reminiscent of tropical eateries of old. The well-stocked bar includes many original cocktails. Near Gaienmai Station, Ginza subway line. Daily 11:30 am-2:30 pm and 5:45-10 pm. $$$. Most major credit cards. Riviera Minami Aoyama Building, 1st Floor, 3-3-3 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku, Tokyo. Phone 5474-8181.

Serina Honten—This restaurant, with its extravagant interior, has been known for its finest quality shabu-shabu. Quality Kobe beef steaks are available in the basement at Mon Cher Ton Ton, and seafood specialties at Kani Serina within the complex. Near Roppongi Station, Hibiya subway line. Daily noon-10:30 pm, Sundays and holidays until 9:30 pm. $$$$. Most major credit cards. 3-12-2 Roppongi, Minato-ku, Tokyo. Phone 3402-1051.

Ten-Ichi—This is by far the best place to try tempura. A chef will deep fry the best seasonal seafood and vegetables right in front of you. International celebrities often show up when in town. Near Ginza Station, Hibiya, Ginza and Marunouchi subway lines. Daily 11:30 am-9:30 pm. Reservations required. $$$$. Most major credit cards. 6-6-5 Ginza, Chuo-ku, Tokyo. Phone 3571-1272.

LOCAL AND REGIONAL SPECIALTIES

Asakusa Owariya—Since 1860, this place has been famous for its soba noodle soup with the huge shrimp tempuras on top. Watch everybody gasp when the food is brought in! One minute from Asakusa Station, Ginza subway line. Open 11:30 am-8 pm, closed Wednesdays. $. cash only. 1-1-3 Asakusa, Taito-ku, Tokyo. Phone 3841-8780.

Hassan—This restaurant serves high-quality shabu-shabu as well as sushi. Both shabu-shabu and sushi are all-you-can-eat. Hours change frequently, but roughly: 11:30-3 pm and 5-11 pm. $$. No credit cards. 6-1-20 Roppongi, Minato-ku, Tokyo. Phone 3403-8333.

Heirokuzushi—Sit at a counter encircling the chefs and pick sushi plates from those going around on a conveyor belt. Heirokuzushi is one of the oldest and biggest chains of kaiten (round and round) restaurants. Ask at your hotel for the one nearest you. A very popular one is five minutes from Omote-sando Station, Ginza and Hanzomon subway lines. Daily 11 am-8:50 pm. $. No credit cards. 5-8-5 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo. Phone 3498-3968.

Matsuya—Try this place for soba. You'll be served a giant bowl of noodles in a thick soup. Monday-Friday 11 am-7:30 pm, Saturday 11 am-7 pm. $. cash only. 1-13 Kandasudacho, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo. Phone 3251-1556.

Nambantei—All kinds of kushiyaki (skewered foods) are grilled right before you. Decor is traditional Japanese. Daily 5-10:30 pm. $$. Most major credit cards. 4-5-6 Roppongi, Minato-ku, Tokyo. Phone 3402-0606.

Ninniku-Ya—A favorite for its exotic, garlic-spiced food and huge servings. Monday-Saturday 6-10:30 pm, closed holidays. $$. cash only. 1-26-12 Ebisu, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo. Phone 3446-5887.

Tonki—Great tonkatsu (big, juicy pork cutlet) is on the menu. This place is so popular you may have to wait in line a few minutes—but it's worth it. Open 4-10:45 pm, closed Tuesdays and the third Monday each month. $-$$. No credit cards. 1-1-2 Shimo Meguro, Meguro-ku, Tokyo. Phone 3491-9928.

Tsunahachi—This is a chain of reasonably priced, high-quality restaurants specializing in tempura. Phone 3352-1012 for nearest location or ask your hotel's concierge. Daily 11 am-10 pm. $-$$. Most major credit cards. Phone 3352-1012 for nearest location, Tokyo. Phone 3352-1012.

Yasuko—Yasuko specializes in oden, a stew of fish cakes, vegetables, fried tofu and seafood, simmered in flavorful stock. Just point and choose a few delicacies and eat them with a dab of fiery mustard, washed down with warm sake. Daily 4-10:30 pm. $-$$. Visa and MasterCard. 5-4-6 Ginza, Chuo-ku, Tokyo. Phone 3571-0621.

ASIAN

Asian Table—With more than 60 dishes from all over the Far East, this place is great for tasting different foods while enjoying a breathtaking view of Tokyo Bay. Monday-Friday 11:30 am-2:30 pm and 5:30-10 pm, Saturday and Sunday 11:30 am-10 pm. $$-$$$, most major credit cards. Hotel Intercontinental Tokyo Bay, 3rd Floor, 1-16-2 Kaigan, Minato-ku, phone 5404-2222.

Bougainvillea—A cozy, little Vietnamese restaurant, Bougainvillea's food is so good that the place is always crowded. Monday-Friday 5-10:30 pm, Saturday and Sunday 11:30 am-3 pm and 5-10:30 pm. $$, most major credit cards. Romani Building, 2nd Floor, 2-25-9 Dogenzaka, Shibuya-ku (a few minutes' walk from Shibuya Station), phone 3496-5537.

Moti—Moti is a reasonably priced, good Indian restaurant. Daily 11:30 am-10 pm. $$, most major credit cards. 3-8-8 Akasaka, Minato-ku, phone 3584-3760.

New Peking—This place, located in the Hilltop Hotel, is sure to satisfy a craving for traditional Chinese. Daily 11 am-9 pm, reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$, most major credit cards. 1 Kanda Surugadai 1-chome, Chiyoda-ku, phone 3293-2311.

Saimon—This eatery has gooey-good Chinese food. Monday-Friday 11 am-2:30 pm and 5-10:30 pm, Saturday noon-10 pm, Sundays noon-9:30 pm. $$, most major credit cards. Mitsuya Yotsuya Building, 2nd Floor, 2-14 Yotsuya, Shinjuku-ku (near Yotsuya Sanchome Station, Marunouchi subway line), phone 3355-6906.

CONTINENTAL

Lunchan Aoyama—This is an American-style bistro with international cuisine. Daily 11:30 am-2:30 pm and 5:30-10 pm, Sunday until 9 pm. Reservations suggested. $$$, major credit cards except MasterCard. 1-2-5 Shibuya, Shibuya-ku, phone 5466-1398.

FRENCH

Tableaux—An elegant, traditional French restaurant, Tableaux has the appearance of a 19th-century parlor room. The corner bar is a perfect place to relax before or after your meal. Daily 5:30-11 pm, reservations recommended. $$$, most major credit cards. Sunroser Daikanyama Building, B1, 11-6 Sarugaku-cho, Shibuya-ku, phone 5489-2201.

GREEK

The Aegean—Authentic Greek dining—the Aegean is the place to get moussaka in Tokyo. Daily 5:30-10:30 pm. $$-$$$, most major credit cards. Oriental Building, B1, 3-18-3 Shibuya, Shibuya-ku (near Shibuya Station, Ginza subway line), phone 3407-1783.

ITALIAN (INCLUDING PIZZERIAS)

L'Incontro Trattoria—The menu is filled with traditional Italian dishes. Monday-Saturday 11:30 am-2 pm and 5:30-9 pm, closed holidays. Reservations recommended. $$, most major credit cards. Kami Pulp Kaikan Building, B1, 3-9-11 Ginza, Chuo-ku (near Ginza Station, Ginza subway line), phone 3248-4881.

ADDITIONAL EXPERIENCES

Healthy-Kan—For vegetarian and health-food fare, jog over to Healthy-Kan. Monday-Saturday 11:30 am-2:30 pm and 4:30-9 pm, closed holidays. $, cash only. Asahirokubancho Mansion, 2nd Floor, 4 Rokubancho, Chiyoda-ku, phone 3263-4023.