Today you're more likely to find Aussies dining on Thai, Vietnamese, Malaysian, Lebanese or Italian food than on the more traditional fare borrowed from the British. Seemingly dozens of restaurants open and close weekly. The neighborhoods of Darlinghurst and Newtown have a concentration of vegetarian and Asian restaurants. Italian places are found all over, but particularly in Paddington, Woollahra, Darlinghurst and Leichhardt. Great yum cha (dim sum) can be had in Chinatown and Chatswood.

Modern Australian cuisine, often called Mod Oz, is carving out a reputation worldwide as a distinctive and palate-pleasing cooking style, combining fresh Australian produce with Asian stir-fry techniques and such flavorings as lemongrass and chilies. Australia's seafood ranks among the best in the world, from calamari and smoked trout to rock oysters and the much respected, but rarely afforded, barramundi. Australia also has a number of native specialties (called "bush tucker"): warrigal (a spinachlike green), kangaroo (tastes like venison but contains less fat) and wild buffalo meat. For sweet desserts, try wattle-seed ice cream; lamington, a sheet cake coated with a chocolate spread and dipped in coconut; or pavlova, a soft-crusted meringue, served with kiwi fruit, passion fruit and strawberries. Australia's wines are winning international gold medals, and samples of the country's renowned vintages are widely available.

Note: Whether you're ordering beer or brut, chardonnay or a cordial, Sydney's libations are higher in alcoholic content than you may be accustomed to. When a restaurant is classified as a BYO, it means "bring your own" alcohol, which can be found at bottle shops (liquor stores), often located next to pubs and hotels. A corkage fee of A$2 is usually charged. Licensed establishments serve their own alcohol.

Below is a sampling of restaurants in town. Expect to pay within these general guidelines, based on the cost of a dinner for one, not including drinks, tax or tip: $ = less than A$20; $$ = A$20-$45; $$$ = A$46-$75; and $$$$ = more than A$75.

FAVORITE RESTAURANTS

Banc—This restaurant is blessed with one of the most dramatically spacious dining rooms in town, with soaring green marble columns, mirrors and comfy Spanish chairs. The French and other European cuisine is delicious and as eye pleasing as the surroundings. Lunch Monday-Friday noon-2:30 pm, dinner Monday-Saturday 6:30-10:30 pm. $$$. Most major credit cards. 53 Martin Place, Sydney. Phone 9233-5300.

Catalina—Beloved by society types who don sunglasses indoors, this glass-walled, harborside restaurant is popular for its see-and-be-seen quality. Despite the water's proximity, modern Australian cuisine dominates the menu rather than seafood. Dishes such as crackling pork salad with fig relish and snapper fillet on potato and garlic puree are available on an all-day, order-by-portion menu. Daily noon-midnight. $$$. Most major credit cards. 1 Sunderland Ave., Rose Bay, Sydney. Phone 9371-0555.

Chinta Ria: The Temple of Love—One of the Cockle Bay restaurants across from Darling Harbour, Chinta Ria offers reasonably priced Malaysian dining inside around the Buddhist statues and fish ponds and outside under the thatched umbrellas—particularly nice on a mild night. While none of the dishes is especially innovative, they definitely are tasty, and the atmosphere, very pleasant staff and sparkling city lights make this something to happily queue for. Lunch daily noon-2:30 pm, dinner Monday-Saturday 6-11 pm. No reservations. $$. Most major credit cards. The Roof Terrace, 201 Sussex St., Darling Harbour, Sydney. Phone 9264-3211.

Hugo's—This seaside restaurant is an excellent vantage point for watching sunbeams stream across Bondi Beach. The menu includes a range of exotic tasting dishes in the modern Australian style. The weekend brunches are fabulous. Dinner daily 6:30-11 pm; brunch Saturday and Sunday 9 am-4 pm. $$$$. Most major credit cards. 70 Campbell Parade, Bondi Beach, Sydney. Phone 9300-0900.

MG Garage—Formerly an MG dealership, now this site is one of Sydney's best modern Australian restaurants with a couple of beribboned shiny MGs parked beside the white-linen-draped tables. A long dashboard serves as the bar, and padded leather seats continue the auto analogy. The menu of unusual dishes changes regularly. Lunch Monday-Friday noon-2:30 pm; dinner Monday-Saturday 6:30-10 pm. $$$. Most major credit cards. 490 Crown St., Surry Hills, Sydney. Phone 9383-9383.

Rockpool—There's no harbor view, but restaurant critics clamor for Rockpool assignments and dishes like Chinese roast pigeon with shiitake mushroom lasagne and stir-fried squid with black ink noodles. You'll also encounter slick, intelligent service; discreet colors and lighting; and wide spacing between the tables at this expensive restaurant. Lunch Monday-Friday noon-2:30 pm, dinner Monday-Saturday 6-11 pm. $$$$. Most major credit cards. 107 George St., The Rocks, Sydney. Phone 9252-1888.

Summit—This revolving restaurant looks like a set from The Jetsons with its space-age decor. Summit offers magnificent, changing views of Sydney. The menu offers a wide selection of mostly modern Australian dishes—some with an Asian twist. Lunch Sunday-Friday noon-3 pm; dinner daily 6 pm till late. $$$$. Most major credit cards. 264 George St., Level 47, Sydney. Phone 9247-9777.

Tetsuya's—The plain, glass-brick exterior is home to exquisite Japanese- and French-inspired six-course set meals that are in amazing demand. The restaurant seats only 60, and its minimalist interior of simple, white tablecloths, frosted-glass venetians and stainless steel architectural columns are designed to make you concentrate on your food. Lunch Tuesday-Saturday noon-5 pm; dinner Monday-Friday 7 pm-midnight. Reservations need to be made six weeks in advance. $$$$. Most major credit cards. 729 Darling St., Rozelle, Sydney. Phone 9555-1017.

ASIAN

Fu Manchu—A popular noodle bar and more that offers very good takeout, Fu Manchu is a favorite with inner-city types who aren't ready to go straight home after work. Instead, they grab a beer from the Green Park Hotel across the street and slide onto the communal steel benches for cheap, nutritious meals as they listen to (or join in) nearly always entertaining conversations. Daily noon-3 pm and 5:30-10:30 pm. $. No credit cards. 249 Victoria St., Darlinghurst, Sydney. Phone 9360-9424.

Raw Bar—Willowy models and other health-conscious types sip miso soup and nibble sashimi at this Bondi establishment, looking around to ensure they're being seen. Others sample goodies in a Bento Box. Be prepared for a wait—it's very popular. Bring your own wine. Daily noon-11 pm. No reservations. $$. Most major credit cards. Corner of Warners and Wairona Avenues, Bondi Beach, Sydney. Phone 9365-7200.

ITALIAN (INCLUDING PIZZERIAS)

Il Trattoraro—Overlook the unprepossessing exterior. The food in this large, boisterous restaurant is true Italian, served by a charming staff. The antipasto selections include tomato bruchetta, whitebait, marinated broad beans and grilled field mushrooms. It's much beloved by families and party groups. Diners singing along to Italian music is not uncommon. Bring your own wine. Monday-Saturday 6:30-10:30 pm. $$. Most major credit cards. 10 Elizabeth St., Paddington, Sydney. Phone 9331-2962.

Lucio's—A typical Victorian two-story home, with a wrought-iron terrace, has been extended several times to house the very popular and well-regarded Lucio's. Locals and VIPs such as ex-Prime Minister Paul Keating are regulars in this warmly decorated, intimate place. Local artist and Lucio's fan John Olsen redesigned the menu, which includes tagliolini al granseola, a favorite since 1983. Monday-Saturday 12:30-3 pm and 6:30-11 pm. $$$. Most major credit cards. 47 Windsor St., Paddington, Sydney. Phone 9380-5996.

Mezzaluna—As you walk through its terra-cotta-walled entrance you know you're about to experience something special. From the restaurant there's a beautiful view of the buildings of Potts Point, as far as St. Mary's Cathedral on the skyline. Menu items range from the traditional to the innovative. Try to get one of the few tables on the veranda for the best view. Lunch Monday-Friday noon-3, dinner Monday-Saturday 6-11 pm. $$$. Most major credit cards. 123 Victoria St., Potts Point, Sydney. Phone 9357-1988.

MIDDLE EASTERN

Fez Cafe—This place is wonderful for a late weekend brunch, sitting outside on the Persian bench cushions in the sun and watching the colorful scenesters pass by. Try the creamy scrambled eggs on toasted pita with spicy sausages for breakfast, or later in the day sample the camel or stewed goat. Monday-Friday 7 am-10:30 pm, Saturday and Sunday 8 am-10:30 pm. $$. Most major credit cards. 247 Victoria St., Darlinghurst, Sydney. Phone 9360-9581.

SEAFOOD

MCA Cafe—Grab a sunny outside table for views of the Opera House, Circular Quay and the bustling harbor ferries as you indulge in such dishes as the green garlic and gruyere twice-baked souffle. Monday-Friday noon-4 pm, Saturday and Sunday 9-11:30 am and noon-4 pm (may vary). $$$. Most major credit cards. Museum of Contemporary Art, 140 George St., The Rocks, Sydney. Phone 9241-4253.

VEGETARIAN

Govinda's—Run by the Hare Krishnas (although not dressed in their usual orange robes), this vegetarian restaurant offers a buffet of tasty soups, pastas and salads. Afterward, you can climb upstairs to recline on orange couches to watch current-release movies in the small cinema room (subject to numbers). A$13.90 for a dinner and movie deal. Call ahead for the movie schedule, so you can get there on time to eat beforehand if you're going to the early movie. Daily 6-11 pm. $. Most major credit cards. 112 Darlinghurst Rd., Darlinghurst, Sydney. Phone 9380-5155.

ADDITIONAL EXPERIENCES

bel mondo—This modern Italian restaurant is one of the earlier incarnations of Sydney restaurateur Stefano Manfredi (he now has about seven to his credit). And it's still one of the best. Manfredi commands his talented staff like a film director, from a raised dais overlooking the diners. The seasonal degustazione menu (five-course tasting menu) is popular. Other specialties include the potato gnocchi with brown butter and parmesan and the roast murray cod with spinach, pine nuts and Ligurian olive salsa. Lunch Monday-Friday 12:30-2:30 pm. Dinner Monday-Thursday 6:30-10:30 pm, Friday and Saturday 6:30-11 pm, Sunday 6:30-10 pm. $$$$. Most major credit cards. The Argyle Department Store, 18-24 Argyle St., Level 3, The Rocks, Sydney. Phone 9241-3700.

Harry's Cafe de Wheels—This amusing pie cart, where starving nightclubbers go after a late night before going home, has been a Sydney institution since 1945. You could be sitting between a model in a slip dress and a biker in leather chowing down on meat pies or chili dogs. Monday-Thursday 7:30 am-3 am, Friday 7:30 am-5 am, Saturday 10 am-3 am. $. No credit cards. 1 Cowper Wharf Rd., Woolloomooloo, Sydney. Phone 9357-3074.