Reservations are a good idea at most establishments. Credit cards are now widely accepted, particularly Visa. (American Express is only rarely usable.) But you never know for certain what a restaurant’s policy is going to be, so bring along plenty of rubles. Keep in mind that the smoke level can be a problem -- Russians frequently smoke between courses, and a no-smoking section is not always available. Expect to pay within these general guidelines, based on the cost of dinner for one, not including drinks, tax or tip:

$ = less than US$10
$$ = US$10 to US$20
$$$ = US$20 to US$50
$$$$ = more than US$50

BEST IN TOWN

The Europa Restaurant -- Located in the Grand Hotel Europe, the Europa is exquisite and expensive. Evenings the restaurant hosts live jazz or ballet performances. The Sunday jazz brunch is possibly the best on the planet—mounds of caviar, delicacies, champagne, entrees, desserts and fresh cheeses, all for US$45. Make a reservation and go! Breakfast 7-10:30 am, dinner 7 pm-midnight, Sunday brunch noon-3 pm. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Mikhailovskaya Ulitsa 1-7, phone 329-6000.

Dvorianskoe Gnezdo -- Probably the best restaurant in town, this restaurant is located in the tea pavilion of the Yusupovsky Palace, formerly the home of one of the city's richest families. It's also the scene of the murder (by poisoning, stabbing and drowning) of the mad Siberian monk Rasputin. The Dvorianskoe Gnezdo is exquisitely decorated, expensive and serves wonderful food -- oysters flown in fresh every day, for example, among many other delicacies. A cup of Royal Coffee is brewed at your table in a giant contraption of gold, glass tubes and Bunsen burners. There's also a very reasonable set lunch. Reservations essential for both lunch and dinner. Daily noon-midnight. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Ulitsa Dekabristov 21 (not far from the Mariinsky Theater), phone 312-3205.

Bella Leone -- Italian and Russian cuisine, comfortable decor and soothing piano music. Daily 1-11 pm. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Vladimirsky Prospect 9, just off of Nevsky, phone 113-1670.

LOCAL FAVORITES

The Senat Bar -- A huge imported-beer menu and a mishmash of Russian-, German- and American-style entrees make this a popular place. An evening walk to this restaurant from Nevsky is very pretty and takes you past St. Isaac’s Cathedral. Daily 11 am-5 am. $$. Most major credit cards. Galernaya Ulitsa 1, phone 314-9253.

U Petrovicha -- True Russian specialties, such as elk, suckling pig and rabbit, in a cozy atmosphere. Daily noon-midnight. $$. Most major credit cards. Sredneokhtinsky Prospect 44, phone 227-2135.

Tandoor -- A place popular with expats and knowledgeable Russians, this Indian restaurant provides fresh fare, attentive service and an intimate atmosphere. Open noon-11 pm. $$$. Most major credit cards. Voznesensky Prospect 2 (between the Admiralty and St. Isaac’s), phone 312-3886.

1001 Nights -- Good Uzbek food, spicy and hot, in an exotic setting. A great taste of central Asia. $$. Cash only. Millionaya Ulitsa 21-6, phone 312-2265.

1913 -- This cozy restaurant behind the Mariinsky Palace is one of the better-kept secrets of St. Petersburg. Elegant, yet affordable, with a giant menu and giant portions. Traditional Russian cuisine, plus some European samplings and lots of pasta and fish. Daily noon-1 am. $$. Most major credit cards. Voznesensky Prospect 13, phone 315-5148.

The Idiot -- Another great place a few minutes' walk from St. Isaac's Square, The Idiot (named for Dostoevsky's novel) is a vegetarian cafe, but not self-consciously so. They have great Russian fare—beet and potato salads, blini and pelmeni, mixed in with such Western goodies as garden salads, sweets and enormous cups of cappuccino. The cafe doubles as a used-books store. It's a favorite haunt of U.S. expatriates, who meet to play chess and backgammon, watch movies on a VCR and lounge about. Try the weekend breakfast specials. $$. Rubles only. Naberezhnaya Reki Moika 82, phone 315-1675.

FRENCH

Le Bistro Francaise -- A decent, very comfortable French restaurant, under French management, with cozy atmosphere, friendly service and quality fare. The interior is welcoming and understated. Located down the street from the Senat Bar. $$$. Galernaya Ulitsa 20, phone 315-2465.

ASIAN

Arirang -- A terrific Korean restaurant, with a Korean cook from Seoul and karaoke every night. The dishes are still sizzling when they get to your table. $$$. Rubles only. Sovetskaya Ulitsa 8, phone 274-0466.

Chopstix -- This is a fine Chinese restaurant, even by international standards. $$$. Most major credit cards. In the Grand Hotel Europe, Ulitsa Mikhailov 1/7, phone 329-6000.

ADDITIONAL DINING EXPERIENCES

Sadko's -- With its strange and casual mix of American and Russian cuisine, this place draws an interesting mix of ostentatious 'New Russians,' foreign businessmen and expats. The food is overpriced, but the Swedish beer on tap is satisfying. A good jazz band entertains during lunch on Sunday. Open daily noon-2 am. $$$. Most major credit cards. At the Grand Hotel Europe, Mikhailovsky Ulitsa 1, phone 329-6000.

La Cucaracha -- The first authentic Tex-Mex cantina in St. Petersburg -- much fun and affordable. Sunday-Thursday noon-1 am, Friday and Saturday noon-5 am. $. Rubles only. Naberezhnaya Fontanka 39, phone 110-4006.

California Grill -- Western-level service and food: barbecue, quesadillas, margaritas and terrific New York steaks. The famed 50-ruble meal is accompanied by fries, a Coke and a dish of ice cream. English spoken. Daily noon-midnight. $$. Most major credit cards. Nevsky Prospect 176, phone 274-2422.

Pizza Hut -- Dine in or take out. (Call ahead to the 'Slice Bar,' as it's known, for takeout.) Open to 11 pm. No delivery. At the corner of Naberezhnaya Reki Moika and Ulitsa Gorokhovaya, phone 315-7705.