Eating well in Rio is a pleasure that might evoke thoughts of Europe. If, however, you want native cuisine, go to a churrascaria, a Brazilian barbecue restaurant. Most of them operate under the rodizio system (all-you-can-eat, served at your table). Or try a restaurant that specializes in comida baiana, a spicy African-influenced cuisine from Bahia (in northeastern Brazil). Be sure to sample Rio's overwhelming variety of tropical fruits and fresh juices (suco), served at juice bars on just about every corner. And the national dish, traditionally served Wednesday and Saturday, is feijoada, a delicious black bean stew made with a variety of meats and vegetables.

For a fast, cheap meal, go to one of several restaurants that sell meals by the kilo. Food is arranged buffet style and you help yourself. What you pay depends on the weight of your plate.

Note: Many restaurants don't accept credit cards, so call beforehand to be sure.

Below is a sampling of restaurants in town. Expect to pay within these general guidelines, based on the cost of a dinner for one, not including drinks, tax or tip: $ = up to R$15; $$ = R$16-$30; $$$ = R$31-$60; and $$$$ = more than R$60.

FAVORITE RESTAURANTS

Antiquarius—A Rio tradition. Browse through the restaurant's antique shop before dining in this luxurious, award-winning establishment. The chef is known for creating some of the best Portuguese dishes in the city—transforming traditional dishes with the addition of exotic Brazilian spices and ingredients. Try the cozido, a Portuguese stew jazzed up with jilo (similar to okra), banana and yucca. Good wine cellar. Daily noon-2 am. Reservations required. $$$$. Diners Club. Rua Aristides Espinola 19 (Leblon), Rio de Janeiro. Phone 294-1049.

Garcia and Rodrigues—The menu is based on French cuisine, but with a dash of Brazilian style. We recommend the grilled lobster with garlic risotto and the duo de tomate (dried tomatoes with Parma ham and yogurt). There's also a coffee shop in front. Tuesday-Friday noon-4 pm and 8 pm-midnight, Saturday and Sunday 1-5 pm and 8 pm-midnight. The coffee shop is open daily 8 am-midnight. Reservations suggested at the restaurant. $$$. Most major credit cards. Ataulfo de Paiva 1251 (Leblon), Rio de Janeiro. Phone 512-8188.

Gattopardo—This is a great spot to have a pizza before heading to a disco. Expect the weekends to be noisy and crowded with young people. Specializes in traditional pizza baked in a stone oven and pasta dishes. Try the fettucine all triplo salmone (fettucine with salmon). Monday-Thursday and Sunday noon-2 am, Friday and Saturday noon-4 am. $$. MasterCard and Diners Club. Ave. Borges de Medeiros 1426 (Lagoa), Rio de Janeiro. Phone 219-3133.

Le Saint Honore—An extraordinary view of Copacabana Beach combined with excellent French cuisine. Try the duck and roasted almond salad. Monday-Saturday 8 pm-12:30 am. Reservations suggested. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Ave. Atlantica 1020 (Copacabana), at the top of Le Meridien Hotel, Rio de Janeiro. Phone 275-9922.

Mariu's—One of Ipanema's best churrascarias. More than a dozen kinds of grilled meats, including the coveted picanha. Meat is brought to the table already cut—instead of the traditional offering of still sizzling meats on spits that are then cut at your table. Daily 11:45 am-midnight. Reservations suggested. $$$. Visa, MasterCard, Diners Club. Rua Francisco Otaviano 96 (Ipanema), Rio de Janeiro. Phone 521-0500.

Quadrifoglio—A small, quaint establishment with superb Italian cuisine, current favorite of Rio's rich and famous. House specialty: fresh ravioli. Comfortably nestled between the Lagoa and Jardim Botanico. Monday-Saturday 12:30-3:30 pm and 7:30 pm-1 am, Sunday noon-1 am. Reservations suggested. $$$. American Express and Visa. Rua J. J. Seabra 19 (Jardim Botanico), Rio de Janeiro. Phone 294-1433.

ASIAN

Kotobuki—The most traditional Japanese restaurant in Rio. The Botafogo location is large, with private rooms and beach views. The Jardim Botanico location is more cosy. Monday-Friday noon-4 pm and 7 pm-2 am, Saturday and Sunday 1 pm-2 am. $$. Most major credit cards. Two locations: Ave. Pasteur 86 (Botafogo), phone 541-0001, and Rua Maria Angelica 21 (Jardim Botanico), phone 539-1989.

Leblon Sushi Bar—Excellent sushi, sashimi and tempura. Large and festive, this partially open-air restaurant is in the heart of Leblon's nightlife area and a great place to people watch. Tuesday-Saturday 7 pm-1 am, Sunday 2 pm-midnight. $$$. Most major credit cards. Rua Dias Ferreira 256 (Leblon), phone 274-1342.

CONTINENTAL

Mistura Fina—Very popular restaurant facing the Rodrigo de Freitas lagoon. Continental cuisine in a spacious, modern setting. Good wine selection. Try the fresh trout stuffed with spinach. Daily noon-2 am. $$$. Most major credit cards. Ave. Borges de Medeiros 3207 (Lagoa), phone 557-2844.

FRENCH

Allons Enfants—A small restaurant with friendly service. Menu includes typical French cuisine, but this is one of the places in Rio where you can try wild boar with red berry sauce (you must call in advance to request it). Monday-Saturday noon-1 am, Sunday noon-5 pm. Reservations recommended. $$$. Visa only. Rua Visconde de Carandai 5 (Jardim Botanico), phone 239-3397.

Claude Troisgros—Known for innovative French cuisine that integrates native ingredients, resulting in surprising, delicious dishes. Try the codorna (a small bird), filled with farofa (stuffing made with manioc flour) and spiced with garlic, cilantro and raisins. Monday-Friday noon-3:30 pm, Monday-Saturday 7:30 pm-12:30 am. Reservations suggested. $$$$. American Express only. Rua Custodio Serrao 62 (Jardim Botanico), phone 226-4542.

ITALIAN (INCLUDING PIZZERIAS)

Enotria—Ranks among the best Italian restaurants in Rio. Menu renewed daily. Try the panzerotto, a pasta crust filled with seafood and white sauce. Excellent wines. Monday-Friday noon-4 pm and 7 pm-12:30 am, Saturday noon-1 am, Sunday noon-10 pm. Reservations suggested. $$$. Most major credit cards. Estrada da Gavea 899, Store 206 (in the Sao Conrado Fashion Mall), phone 246-9003.

Margutta—This is among the best Italian restaurants in Rio. The menu includes a wide variety of seafood dishes. Particularly good are the risotto ai funghi secchi (rice with dried mushrooms) and the pesce alla neroni (fish with tomatoes and herbs). Excellent wines. Tuesday-Sunday noon-1 am. Reservations recommended. $$$. Visa and American Express. Ave. Henrique Dumonot 62 (Ipanema), phone 259-3718.

LATIN AMERICAN

Confeitaria Colombo—This is a traditional spot for cakes and breads, but on Saturdays, it opens for feijoada. Monday-Friday 8 am-7:30 pm, Saturday noon-4 pm. $$. Most major credit cards. Rua Goncalves Dias 32 (downtown), phone 232-2300.

Gula Gula—Light and tasty meals. Monday noon-4 pm, Tuesday-Sunday noon-midnight. $. American Express and Sollo. Rua Anibal de Mendonca 132 (Ipanema), phone 259-3084.

Manoel e Juaquim—Cozy and informal, this restaurant has now opened branches in several parts of the city. Their appetizers are highly rated, including the Brazilian version of chicken fingers (frango a passarinho), which are fried with lots of garlic. Tuesday-Sunday 5 pm-4 am. $$. Most major credit cards. Ave. Atlantica 1936 (Copacabana), phone 236-6768.

Siri Mole & Cia—If you want Bahian food, this is the place. This small but comfortable establishment makes some of the best and most exotic dishes in Rio. Don't miss the shrimp or fish moqueca—a spicy stew made with fresh cilantro and coconut milk. Monday 7 pm-midnight, Tuesday-Sunday noon-midnight. $$$. Most major credit cards. Rua Francisco Otaviano 50 (Ipanema), phone 267-0894.

Yemanja—This place specializes in food from Bahia. And be warned—it's hot. We recommend the shrimp moqueca. For dessert, try a black or white cocada—a treat of coconut and sugar with the consistency of a chocolate bar. Monday-Friday 6 pm-midnight, Saturday noon-midnight, Sunday noon-10 pm. $$. Most major credit cards. Rua Visconde de Piraja 128a (Ipanema), phone 247-7004.

SEAFOOD

Lokau—Breezy, palm-thatched fish restaurant between the Marapendi lagoon and the Recreio beach. Try the shrimp and lobster entrees. Daily noon-1 am. $$$. MasterCard and Visa. Ave. Sernambetiba 13500 (Barra da Tijuca), phone 431-1276.

VEGETARIAN

Celeiro—This place has a fantastic variety of sophisticated vegetables for you to employ in creating healthy and tasty salads. Monday and Tuesday 11 am-10:30 pm, Wednesday-Saturday 11 am-5 pm. $. Most major credit cards. Rua Dias Ferreira 199 (Leblon), phone 274-7843.

ADDITIONAL EXPERIENCES

Siqueira Grill—Typical dishes include seafood casseroles, meat stews, pastas and curries. Daily 11 am-midnight. $. Most major credit cards. Rua Siqueira Campos 16b (Copacabana), phone 255-3446.

Yoruba—The atmosphere starts with decoration—African sculptures, blue windows and green leaves all over the floor. Then add sensational African-Brazilian dishes. Try the ebubu-fulo (fish in coconut milk with cooked bananas). Wednesday-Friday noon-3 pm and 7 pm-midnight, Saturday noon-4 pm and 7 pm-midnight, Sunday noon-8 pm. $$$. No credit cards. Rua Arnaldo Quintela 94 (Botafogo), phone 295-5193.