The national Czech dish is roast pork, sauerkraut and dumplings. Another specialty is goulash, often served with dumplings. The main meal of the day is eaten at noon. It usually consists of meat and dumplings, potatoes or rice, and soup. In addition to a simple breakfast and evening meal, Czechs enjoy a snack (svacina) at about 10 am. Tea is the most common beverage. However, Czech beer is famous worldwide. The best-known brands are Pilsner (Plzenske) and Budweiser (Budvar), but just as good are Radegast, Staropramen and Velkopopovicky Kozel. The favorite aperitif is Becherovka, a Czech-invented liqueur, potently herbal and touted as having medicinal qualities. Plum brandy (slivovice) is popular.

Because so many of the good restaurants are quite small, they tend to fill up quickly: We recommend that you reserve well ahead of time. There are usually no dress requirements (though your judgment might dictate more formal apparel for those that are very expensive). In less expensive places, it's not considered rude for another party to join you at your table if seats are free.

Below is a sampling of restaurants in town. Expect to pay within these general guidelines, based on the cost for one person for dinner, excluding tax, drinks and tip: $ = less than 300 Kc; $$ = 300 Kc-600 Kc; $$$ = 601 Kc-1,000 Kc; $$$$ = more than 1,000 Kc.

FAVORITE RESTAURANTS

Bellevue—On the bank of the Vltava and affording a magnificent view of the river, Charles Bridge and Prague Castle. International and Czech favorites—good food, especially their filet of venison with cranberry cream sauce. Occasional live music. Daily noon-3 pm and 5:30-11 pm. Reservations required. $$$-$$$$. Most major credit cards. Smetanovo Nabrezi 18, Prague 1, Prague. Phone 2222-1438. Fax 2422-8932.

Chez Marcel—Everything a good French cafe in Prague should have, including the best (and cheapest) steak as well as the best cappuccino. Open 9 am-midnight or 1 am (kitchen open to 11 pm). $$. No credit cards. Hastalska 12, Prague 1, Prague. Phone 231-5676.

Fakhreldine—Lebanese cuisine in an exotic atmosphere. We suggest an array of the splendid appetizers as your main course. Also Arabic breads and sweets made on-site, Arabic coffees, wines and liqueurs. Daily noon-11:30 pm. Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards. On a corner a little north and west of Namesti Republiky. Klimentska 48, Prague 1, Prague. Phone 232-7970. Fax 232-1721.

Ostroff—This fashionable restaurant, situated on an island in the Vlatva river, serves a range of eclectic dishes, from guinea fowl salad to handmade gnocchi stuffed with artichokes in clam sauce. Daily noon-2 pm and 7 pm-midnight. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Strelecky Ostrov 336, Prague. Phone 2491-9235.

Reykjavik—Outstanding fish and seafood flown in from the cold waters of Iceland and the North Sea. The salmon steak and fish soup are gems, but the menu lists meat and vegetarian options as well. The dark-wood interior is lit by candles and hurricane lamps; an incongruous assemblage of musical instruments adorns one wall, while the painting of an ample nude adorns another. Open daily 11 am-midnight. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Not far from Charles Bridge. Karlova 20, Prague 1, Prague. Phone 2422-9251.

LOCAL AND REGIONAL SPECIALTIES

Buffalo Bill's—Country music and decor, Tex-Mex specialties, great iced tea in tall glasses. Daily noon-midnight. Evening reservations required. $-$$. Vodickova 9, Prague 1, phone 2494-8624.

Kampa Park—On the water (Kampa Island), with a wonderful view from the winter garden onto the Vltava River. Scandinavian seafoods and seasonal specialties are popular. On weekdays, there's a reasonably priced lunch menu. 11:30 am-midnight. Call in advance for evening reservations. $$$. Most major credit cards. Na Kampe 8b, Prague 1. Phone 5731-3493. Fax 5731-3495.

Nebozizek (Little Auger)—Overlooks the city from Petrin Hill on the Lesser Town side of the river. Can be reached by a special funicular train, by taxi or by foot (if you're in the mood for some aerobics before dinner). Great appetizers and Czech specialties. Daily 11 am-11 pm. Reservations required.Reservations required. $$. Most major credit cards. Petrinske Sady 411, Prague 1, Prague. Phone 537-905. Fax 551-017.

U Maltezsych Rytiru (Knights of Malta)—Consistently great Czech food, gourmet and steak specialties. The deep-underground wine cellar is especially atmospheric. Daily 11 am-11 pm. Evening reservations recommended. $$. Most major credit cards. Prokopska 10, Prague 1, Prague. Phone 5753-3666/1324. Fax 536-650.

ASIAN

Delux—Thai and international cuisine served within an amazing interior of white furniture on a red carpet. Live jazz 8-11 pm and soul funk djs after 11 pm. Monday-Friday 11 am-2 am or later if busy, Saturday and Sunday 6 pm to 2 am or later. Wenceslas Square 4, phone 9624-9444.

Jewel of India—Authentic Northern Indian cuisine. Daily 11:30 am-3 pm and 5:30-11:30pm. Parizska 20, phone 2481-1010.

CAFES AND TEA ROOMS

A cafe society has emerged once more in Prague. Places to sit and chat over a creamy cappuccino or cool drink can be found throughout the city.

Bohemia Bagel—A New Yorker's dream come true: Bagels are made on-site. Also cream cheeses and gourmet coffee, as well as sandwiches and brownies. Open Monday-Thursday 7 am-10 pm, Friday 7 am-midnight, Saturday 9 am-midnight, Sunday 9 am-10 pm. Ujezd 16, Prague 1, phone/fax 531-002.

Cafe Milena—Viennese-style cafe named in honor of Czech-born Milena Jesenska, who was Franz Kafka's friend and translator. English, German and Czech newspapers to read and a nice selection of pastries, ice creams and light meals. Picturesque Old Town Square location. Open daily 10 am-10 pm. $. Staromestske Namesti 22, Prague 1, phone 260-843.

Cybeteria—Prague's first on-line cafe with 11 terminals and English-speaking programmers to steer you through the Internet. 50 Kc for one half hour on line. Open Monday-Friday 10 am-8 pm, Saturday noon-6 pm. $. Stepanska 18, Prague 1, phone 269474, fax 2423-5020.

French Institute Cafe—Mais oui! Great cappuccino and big cups of coffee, fresh croissants and pastries. Magazines and French papers to peruse. Open Monday-Friday 9 am-6 pm. $. Stepanska 35, Prague 1, phone 2421-4032.

Kavarna Obecni Dum—The old-Vienna decor of this cafe, crowned by chandeliers, is a pleasant backdrop for good coffee or lunch. It's just inside the entrance to Obecni Dum (the gilded Municipal House) and shares its opulent spirit. Service staff needs to be nudged—but this is a good place to wait for a guided tour of Obecni Dum. The cafe is to the left of the entrance (the far more expensive French restaurant is to the right). Open 7:30 am-11 pm daily. $-$$. Most major credit cards. Namesti Republiky 5, Prague 1, phone 2200-2763.

Kavarna Slavia—Literary minds such as Kafka, Max Brod and Vaclav Havel came to this cafe in their time to drink coffee, write or plot revolutions. Full menu, fine coffee. There's a view of Prague Castle and the beautiful National Theater (Narodni Divadlo). Open daily 8 am-midnight. $-$$. Smetanovo Nabrazy 1012, Prague 1, phone 2422-9057.

Rudolfinum Kavarna—Spacious cafe with drinks and sweets at reasonable prices. Old-fashioned, elegant atmosphere. Open daily (except Monday) 10 am-6 pm. $. Alsovo Nabrezi 12 (Namesti Jana Palacha), Prague 1, phone 2489-3317.

Terminal Bar—120 Kc for one hour, half price with membership. Monday-Thursday 9 am-2 am, Saturday and Sunday 10 am-2 am. Soukenicka 6, phone 2187-1111.

COFFEEHOUSES

Kavarna at Knihkupectvi Academia—Quiet coffeehouse on the first floor of this bookshop. Daily 11 am-7 pm. Vaclavske namesti 34, phone 2422-3511.

CONTINENTAL

Palffy Palac—Romantic, candlelit restaurant serving international dishes on the second floor of a palace. Daily 11 am-12 am. $$. Valdstejnska 14, phonr 5732-0570.

FRENCH

La Provence—Beautiful interior (and well-dressed clientele to match). French specialties, including salads, poultry, desserts and French wines. Restaurant open daily 10 am-noon (brunch) and 6 pm-1 am. Two bars open daily noon-1 am. Restaurant reservations recommended three days in advance. $$$. Most major credit cards. Stupartska 9, Prague 1, phone/fax 232-4801.

Le Bistrot de Marlene—Excellent French bistro featuring duck breast, veal, roast leg of lamb and delicious desserts. Menu changes daily. Monday-Friday noon-2:30 pm and 7-10:30 pm, Saturday 7-10 pm. Dinner reservations required. $$$. Plavecka 4. Prague 2, phone/fax 291-077.

ITALIAN (INCLUDING PIZZERIAS)

Il Ritrovo Spaghetteria—A true Italian restaurant established and frequented by Italians. 35 different sauces and pastas. Monday-Saturday noon-3 pm and 6 pm-midnight. Reservations recommended. $$. No credit cards. Lublanska 11, Prague 2, phone/fax 296-529.

Pizzeria Rugantino—Variety of pizzas with crispy crusts. Salads, bread baked on the premises daily. 8 am-11 pm, closed Sundays. Reservations recommended. $$. No credit cards. Dusni 4, Prague 1, phone 231-8172.

VEGETARIAN

Country Life—Healthful eating option away from traditional fried fare of pub menus. Vegetarian buffet offering a range of salads, pizza and hot entrees including goulash. Pay by weight. Often long queues at lunchtime. Monday-Thursday 7:30 am-6:30 pm, Sunday noon-6 pm. $. Melantrichova 15, phone 2421-3366.

FX Cafe—A popular ex-pats' meeting place offering large portions of very good vegetarian fare, including a few Mexican and Italian specialities. Seafood becomes an option on the Sunday-night menu. $. Monday-Friday 11 am-2 am, Saturday and Sunday 11 am-5 am. Belehradska 120, phone 2425-4776.

ADDITIONAL EXPERIENCES

EVD-Evropska Vodni Doprava—Cruise along the Vltava River, past the city's famous landmarks. Prague by Night dinner cruise 7-10 pm includes buffet dinner, aperitif and live music. $$-$$$. EVD port is located at Checuv Most (Chech's Bridge) on the embankment Na Frantisku, directly across the street from the Hotel Inter-Continental. Best to call ahead for reservations. Phone 231-0208, fax 231-0426.

Jama—A popular, often noisy, ex-pats' hangout. Czech-Mex eatery . Daily 11 am-1 am. $. V Jame 7, phone 2422-2383.

Modra reka (Blue River)—Cosy restaurant serving delicious Yugoslavian dishes. Monday-Friday 11am-11 pm, Saturday and Sunday 1 pm-11 pm. $$. Manesova 13, phone 2225-1601.

Restaurant Boat Moravia—Two-hour cruise with dinner. $$. Located on the embankment Na Frantisku, phone 0601-211-333 or 0602-323-988, fax 258-003.