Trying to find a good restaurant in Moscow used to be difficult. No more. Moscow now has a good selection of restaurants in all price ranges, though eating out is still relatively expensive by international standards. Fortunately, the fashion for opening super-high-end restaurants appears to be ending, and moderately priced eateries are springing up every week. "Theme" restaurants are still the rage, with lavish decor ranging from fairytale scenes to prerevolutionary hunting lodgings—and everything in between. The era of terrible Soviet dining is well and truly over, as are the days of "Lenin's revenge," inflicted by Intourist restaurants.

Traditional Russian cuisine is hearty, and there's little that's subtle in the preparation. (Russians like meat and potatoes.) The breads and ice creams, however, are excellent, and pastries taste similar to those found in other parts of Europe. While in Moscow, do try pelmeni (dumplings), sturgeon and, of course, the Russian delicacy, caviar.

The best restaurant in town, as far as we're concerned, is The Grand Imperial: classic Russian cuisine, ornate decor, very expensive. Among the theme restaurants, the most interesting are Beloye Sointse Pustyni (fairytale atmosphere, waterfalls, Uzbek food) and Boyarsky Zal (a dream world, lots of gold paint and tourists). If you want hearty Russian comfort food, we recommend U Babushki (the name means "At Grandma's Place") and U Pirosmani (Georgian food, near the Novodevichy Convent). Moscow also has a variety of French, Italian, Asian and English pub-style eateries.

When eating out, do specify chisti stol (clean table) or you may find your table laden with expensive appetizers you didn't order and don't want. Also be aware that many restaurants do not have everything that's listed on the menu.

In Moscow, restaurants are usually open every day of the week, with very few exceptions. Restaurant hours are generally noon-3 pm for lunch, 7-11 pm for dinner. Breakfast is usually available only in hotels.

Restaurants that accept credit cards usually take American Express, Visa and MasterCard. Reservations are required at the upscale restaurants. Russian only is spoken at many restaurants, so you may want to ask the hotel receptionist to make reservations for you.

Below is a sampling of restaurants in town. Expect to pay within these general guidelines, based on the cost of a dinner for one, not including drinks, tax or tip: $ = less than 250 rubles; $$ = 251 rubles-500 rubles; $$$ = 501 rubles-1,200 rubles; and $$$$ = more than 1,200 rubles.

FAVORITE RESTAURANTS

Angelico's—One of the most stylish of the city's newer restaurants, Angelico's serves Mediterranean specialties and boasts Moscow's best dessert selection. The ceilings are decorated with beautiful murals, the service is good and the food is superb: Try the grilled king prawns and any of the pasta dishes, but leave room for the tiramisu with mangoes and strawberries. 11:30 am-2 am. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Near the Old Circus. Bolshoy Karetny Pereulok 6, Moscow. Phone 095-299-3696. Fax 095-923-8638.

Beloye Solntse Pustyni—A fairly recent example of restaurants whose fanciful costumes and decor create a wrap-around fairytale atmosphere. This is one of the best and quirkiest. Its name comes from a classic Russian film and is translated as "White Desert Sun." Waitresses wear pajamalike silk, waterfalls trickle from the walls and the food evokes that served in exotic regions of Central Asia. The Uzbek cuisine includes shashlik (kebabs) and plov, a rice dish. Expect to pay a lot. Noon-1 am. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Neglinnaya 29/14, Moscow. Phone 095-209-7525. Fax 095-923-2469.

Boyarsky Zal—A dream world: A stuffed Russian bear and balalaika players complement the mismatched prerevolutionary silver with which you carve your caviar-stuffed trout. A wonderful balcony, lots of gold paint—and lots of tourists. Open 7 pm-midnight. $$$$. Most major credit cards. In the Metropol Hotel, Teatralny 1/4, Moscow. Phone 095-927-6063 after 3 pm. Fax 095-927-6031.

Grand Imperial—Classic Russian cuisine is served in this beautiful restaurant set in the dining room of a 19th-century Russian mansion, complete with gloriously painted walls and ceilings, a tinkling fountain and a string quartet. Daily noon-11 pm. $$$$. Visa only. Near Kropotkinskaya Metro station. Ulitsa Ryleeva 9/5, Moscow. Phone 095-291-6063. Fax 095-927-6031.

LOCAL AND REGIONAL SPECIALTIES

Aragvi—A Georgian restaurant near the monument to Moscow founder Prince Yury Dolgoruky (otherwise known as George the Longarmed) in Tverskaya Square. The food is good, the atmosphere cozy and romantic. Open daily noon-11 pm. $$-$$$. Visa accepted, American Express not accepted. Near Tverskaya Metro station. Tverskaya Ulitsa 6, Moscow. Phone 095-229-3763 or phone 229-3720. Fax 095-928-4572.

Furs-Sticks—With a wood-paneled interior reminiscent of a 19th-century Russian bar, Furs-Sticks is one of nine traktyrs (Russian buffets) in the city. Very popular with Muscovites: They serve hearty borscht, mushrooms, lots of salads—and vodka. Open daily 11 am-11 pm. $. No credit cards. South of the Kremlin and the Moska River in central Moscow. Near Tretiakovskaya Metro station. Klimentovskyy Pereulok 14, Moscow. Phone 095-953-9130.

Guria—Across the river from Gorky Park: a cheap Georgian cafe that has not raised its prices despite its success. Feast on cheesy Georgian bread, khachapuri (chicken in garlic) and lobio (a great bean dish). Bring your own alcohol. Open 11 am-10 pm. No reservations, so go early for a table. $$. No credit cards. Komsomolsky Prospekt 7/3, Moscow. Phone 095-246-0378.

U Babushki—U Babushki means "At Grandma's Place," and this restaurant is just as friendly and warm as its name suggests. Good Russian comfort food at moderate prices. Always full, it has become a favorite of both Russians and Moscow's foreign community. Owned by a former actress and decorated with theatrical memorabilia. $$-$$$. Accepts only Visa and MasterCard. Ulitsa Bolshaya Ordynka 42, Moscow. Phone 095-230-2797.

U Pirosmani—A pretty, wood-paneled restaurant near the Novodevichy Convent and one of the first "cooperative" (not run by the government) restaurants to open in the Gorbachev era. The Georgian food and wine are good, but the plentiful appetizers are better than the main courses. (Check out the photo display of notables who have dined there—U.S. President Bill Clinton was one.) The music—piano, viola and guitar—starts at 8 pm. Open 1-11 pm. $$$. Only cash and Visa accepted. Novodevichy 4, Moscow. Phone 095-247-1926.

ASIAN

Korea House—The dining room is a large, cavernous room where friendly waitresses serve up good, spicy Korean food, cooking the meat in front of you. They serve good Korean beer and accept most major credit cards. $$. Open 1 pm-midnight. East of the center at Volgogradsky Prospekt 26, phone 270-1300 or 270-9070, fax 270-0911.

Tokyo—Great service and expensive but delicious Japanese delicacies. The marble beef is prepared according to the Teppan-Yaki method (on a grill in front of you). Open noon-10 pm. Most major credit cards. $$$$. Off Red Square in the huge Rossiya Hotel behind St. Basil's, phone 298-5707, fax 298-2812

FAST FOOD

Jack's—This is a call-in place that will deliver orders of excellent pizza, burritos and sandwiches to you. Free delivery within 9 mi/15 km of the Kremlin. No credit cards. To order, phone 956-6196 or fax 281-8263.

FRENCH

Borodino—French cuisine meets nouvelle Russian cooking in this discreet hideaway. Very good food and excellent service. Open 6-11 pm. $$$$. Most major credit cards. In the Aerostar Hotel, Leningradsky Prospekt 37, Korpus 9, phone 213-9000.

ITALIAN (INCLUDING PIZZERIAS)

Il Pomidoro—Superb Italian cuisine in an authentic, upscale trattoria atmosphere—fresh, simple food that's a rarity in Moscow. Fantastic veal, pesto, salads and tiramisu, and a decent wine list. Open noon-11 pm. $$$. Most major credit cards. Bolshoy Golovin Pereulok 5, phone 924-2931, fax 924-9301.

STEAK HOUSES

Exchange—The place to go for a big steak. A favorite with expats, it dishes up good salads and desserts as well, in a dark-paneled, dimly lit room. Open daily 6-11 pm. $$$$. Most major credit cards. In the Radisson Slavjanskaya Hotel, Berezhkovskaya Naberezhnaya 2, phone 941-8020.

ADDITIONAL EXPERIENCES

John Bull Pub—Another retreat for Anglophiles in Moscow, this imitation of an English pub is a casual (don't dress up), comfortable place spread over two floors. Besides English beer (of course) and more than 150 wines, Chinese food and steaks are served. Menus are in English. Open noon-midnight, until 2 am on Friday and Saturday (when there's also live music). Two locations, both near the U.S. Embassy: Smolenskaya Square 4, phone 241-0644; and Ulitsa Krasnaya Presnya 25, phone 252-5540.

Le Gastronome—Moscow's most magnificent setting, in a palace of Stalinist marble and stained glass at the foot of the Barrikadnaya skyscraper. The Gastronome used to be a food store before its conversion in 1997; unfortunately, the food doesn't quite live up to the splendor of the setting, but it's worth a visit just for the dining experience. $$$$. Cheaper lunch menu available. Open 11 am-11 pm. Most major credit cards. Kudrinskaya Ploshchad 1, phone 255-4433, fax 255-4354.

Picadilly—This British-managed eatery overlooking Leninsky Prospekt serves international foods: U.S.-style Caesar salad and lamb chops, New Zealand-style grilled lamb chops, Greek salads, French pan-fried frog legs and grilled Russian sturgeon, as well as steaks. You can also choose from a long list of wines from around the world. Open noon-midnight, until 2 am on Friday and Saturday. Live music and dancing on Friday nights. $$. Accepts Visa and MasterCard, but not American Express. 1 Kaluzskaya Square, phone/fax 795-2406.