Montreal's diversity is reflected in its 4,000 or so restaurants, representing more than 35 ethnic groups and as many price ranges. You'll find French food in many permutations from wallet-busting haute cuisine to casual bistros. Add to that the plethora of hybrid cuisines and Asian imports that have challenged the city's older gourmet institutions in the forms of "Cal-Ital," mixed Mediterranean, and Thai, Vietnamese and Indian food. Nearly all restaurants post their menus outside, though many of them are in French only.

One popular local dish is poutine, which is French fries covered in curd cheese and brown gravy. It can be ordered with extras such as chicken or pepperoni. If this sounds unappealing, try some of Montreal's famous smoked meat (similar to corned beef) at one of the delis along St. Laurent.

Given the lower cost of living in Montreal (compared with the U.S. and other large Canadian cities), you'll find some good deals.

Below is a sampling of restaurants in town. Expect to pay within these general guidelines, based on the cost of a dinner for one, not including drinks, tax or tip: $ = less than Can$10; $$ = Can$10-$20; $$$ = Can$20-$50; and $$$$ = more than Can$50.

FAVORITE RESTAURANTS

The Beaver Club—Located within the Queen Elizabeth Hotel, the Beaver Club is considered one of the best French restaurants in North America. Classic menu, excellent wine cellar. Dancing on Saturday night (orchestra starts at 7:30 pm). Lunch Monday-Saturday noon-3 pm, dinner Tuesday-Saturday 6-11 pm. Reservations required. $$$. Most major credit cards. 900 Blvd. Rene Levesque W. (McGill Metro stop), Montreal. Phone 514-861-3511.

Cafeteria—Luxurious decor and stylish clientele provide the ambience that draws the crowd here; while the fare is fresh and satisfying, the crowd will more likely entice you. Have the eggs Florentine for breakfast. Monday-Friday 7 am-1:30 or 2 am, Saturday and Sunday 9 am-1:30 or 2 am. No reservations taken, but know they're terribly busy on weekends. $$. Most major credit cards. 3581 St. Laurent (St. Laurent Metro stop), Montreal. Phone 514-849-3855.

Claude Postel—Nestled in Old Montreal, Claude Postel is the restaurant for all seasons—whether in front of the fireplace on a cold winter day, surrounded by flowers on the terrace in the summer or settled in a comfortable chair in the oak dining room. Traditional cuisine is served in hearty portions; particularly renowned are their fresh fish dishes. Monday-Friday 11:30 am-11 pm, Saturday and Sunday 5-11 pm. $$$. Most major credit cards. 443 St. Vincent, Montreal. Phone 514-875-5067.

Les Halles—Modeled after the old Market les Halles in Paris, with mirrors, bistro atmosphere, formal waiters. Exceptional lobster with ginger and coconut or duck with pear. Classic desserts. Lunch Tuesday-Friday 11:45 am-2:30 pm, dinner Monday-Saturday 6-11 pm. Closed from 23 December 1999-18 January 2000. Reservations required. $$$. Most major credit cards. 1450 Rue Crescent (Guy Concordia Metro stop), Montreal. Phone 514-844-2328.

Psarotaverna Symposium—A taste of the Greek islands in Montreal's Plateau district. Frequent diners often make a meal out of Symposium's impressive array of appetizers. But not to be missed are the grilled shrimp, octopus and squid, the oven-grilled feta, and an ever-changing selection of fresh fish. For true authenticity, try washing it down with a bottle of retsina. Daily 5 pm-midnight. Reservations suggested. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. 5334A Ave. du Parc. (Place des Arts Metro stop), Montreal. Phone 514-274-7022.

Shed Cafe—Perpetually trendy destination on St. Laurent. Don't expect haute cuisine. And as long as you have a cocktail in hand to accompany the simple meals, you won't mind cramming into the small tables. If fighting crowds is not your idea of a good time, swing by for lunch instead. The stir-fry is one of the best bets. Open daily 11 am-3 pm. No reservations. $-$$. No credit cards. 3515 St. Laurent, Montreal. Phone 514-842-0220.

Soto—The trendiest restaurant street by far is the lower strip of the Main (Boulevard St. Laurent). On this street, expect to pay more—but you'll get your money's worth in people watching. Soto provides a feast for the eyes and the stomach. Lovely, pleasing presentations of sushi, sashimi and teriyaki in a soothing Asian environment. Try a carafe of sake while watching the sushi master prepare your meal at the sushi bar. If you're not keen on raw fish, try the vegetarian sushi. Open Monday-Friday noon-2:30 pm, 6-11 pm, Saturday and Sunday 6-11 pm. $$. Most major credit cards. 3527 St. Laurent, Montreal. Phone 514-842-1150.

Toque—This hot restaurant has arguably the best French nouvelle cuisine in town. It boasts one of Montreal's finest chefs, who uses only fresh ingredients in preparing pheasant, duck and lamb dishes. The menu changes daily (depending upon what looks good in the market). Wine selection of 100 labels. Modern decor, impeccable service. Daily 6-11 pm. Reservations required. $$$-$$$$. Most major credit cards. 3842 St. Denis (Sherbrooke Metro stop), Montreal. Phone 514-499-2084.

LOCAL AND REGIONAL SPECIALTIES

Auberge Le Vieux St. Gabriel—Reputedly North America's oldest inn, and good to try when exploring Old Montreal. Features such Quebec favorites as pea soup, meat pie, homemade baked beans and caribou liquor. Very courteous service. Lunch Monday-Friday 11 am-3 pm, dinner Monday-Saturday 5:30-11:00 pm, Sunday brunch 11 am-3 pm. Reservations suggested. $$$. Most major credit cards. 426 Rue St. Gabriel, Old Montreal (Champ de Mars Metro stop), Montreal. Phone 514-878-3561.

Coco Rico—Coco Rico serves a variety of salads, but its specialty is broiled chicken and potatoes—and it's the best tasting in the city. Although there are a few stools and a long narrow counter inside, most people order their food to go and eat it as they cruise Boulevard St. Laurent. Daily 8 am-10 pm. $. No credit cards. 3907 Blvd. St. Laurent (St. Laurent Metro stop), Montreal. Phone 514-849-5554.

Main St. Lawrence Steak House Delicatessen—A second contender for Montreal's best deli, known as "The Main," is just across the street from Schwartz's. With booth tables, dining is a somewhat more private affair than at Schwartz's, and the menu is pretty much the same as, and as good as, its competitor's. Have some potato latkas with applesauce or sour cream. Open 24 hours. $. No credit cards. 3864 St. Laurent (St. Laurent Metro stop), Montreal. Phone 514-843-8126.

Schwartz's Montreal Hebrew Delicatessen—This revered place serves up heaping portions of smoked meat in a true, old-style-deli atmosphere. Diners are packed in at tables set close together and at the counter. Try a lean smoked meat sandwich on rye with mustard and one of their famous dill pickles. Beware of the often lengthy lines on weekends. Daily noon-midnight. No reservations. $. No credit cards. 3895 St. Laurent (St. Laurent Metro stop), Montreal. Phone 514-842-4813.

ASIAN

Katsura—The place that turned Montreal on to sushi. Relaxed atmosphere, good seafood dishes in a Japanese-style tatami room. Try the grilled fillet of salmon marinated in teriyaki. For dessert, green tea ice cream is served on top of beans. Monday-Friday lunch 11:30 am-2:30 pm. Dinner is served Monday-Thursday 5:30-10 pm, Saturday 5:30-11 pm, Sunday 5:30-9:30 pm. Reservations suggested. $$. Most major credit cards. 2170 Rue de la Montagne (Guy Concordia Metro stop), phone 514-849-1172.

Piment Rouge—In the center of the city, this is world-class Sichuan cuisine. Informal yet elegant with impeccable service and lovely presentation. Business clientele. Recommendation: General Tao chicken. Monday-Thursday 11:30 am-11 pm, Friday 11:30 am-midnight, Saturday noon-midnight, Sunday noon-11 pm. Reservations recommended. $$. Most major credit cards. 1170 Rue Peel (Peel Metro stop), phone 514-866-7816.

Souvenir de Bangkok—Good Thai food and very inexpensive. Three versions of Pad thai (a spicy noodle dish)—vegetarian, seafood and chicken—are all delicious. On weeknights a second meat or vegetable dish is half price. Lunch specials. Daily 11 am-3 pm and daily for dinner 5-10 pm. $-$$. 1925 Ste. Catherine W., near St. Marc (Atwater or Guy Concordia Metro stops), phone 514-938-2235.

Star of India—This is one of the best Indian restaurants in the city. It serves many traditional Indian dishes and has a selection of British beers on tap. Small and subdued, the restaurant is an excellent spot for enjoying a long meal and good conversation. Lunch specials. Daily noon-11 pm. $$. 1806 Ste. Catherine W., near St. Mathieu (Guy Concordia Metro stop), phone 514-932-8330.

BREAKFAST AND BRUNCH

Beauty's—Retro '50s-style diner is sleek but authentic and serves a terrific breakfast. Famous for the Beauty's Special: tasty cream cheese, Nova lox, tomato and onion on a toasted bagel. Quality eggs and bacon, pancakes and sausage. Monday-Saturday 7 am-5 pm, Sunday 8 am-5 pm. $. Most major credit cards. 93 Mont Royal W. (Mont Royal Metro stop), phone 514-849-8883.

Dusty's—A diner-style restaurant, it sits at the foot of the eastern slope of Mont Royal; people have breakfast here before a morning walk on the mountain. Pleasant atmosphere and good food, especially the home fries and buckwheat pancakes. Daily 7 am-7 pm. $. 4510 Ave. du Parc (Place des Arts Metro stop), phone 514-276-8525.

Eggspectations—Without a doubt, the best big breakfast in town. Huge portions served with an abundance of fresh fruit and coffee. And there are three central locations: 198 Laurier W., phone 514-278-6411; 1313 Blvd. de Maisonneuve W. (Guy Concordia Metro stop), phone 514-842-3447 (this location is open for dinner until 10 pm June-September); and 201 Rue St. Jacques in the Old Port, phone 514-282-0119. Open daily 6 am-5 pm. $.

FRENCH

Alexandre Restaurant Francais—French cuisine at a terrace bar, with wicker chairs and marble tables—like the Cafe de la Paix at the Place de l'Opera in Paris. Wide variety of British beers. Try a simple steak and fries or a green salad. Cuisine is basic, not too fancy: a good place to grab a bite before heading downstairs to the Funky Town disco for dancing. Daily 11:30 am-2 am. Reservations suggested Thursday-Sunday. $$. Most major credit cards. 1454 Rue Peel (Peel Metro stop), phone 514-288-5105.

ITALIAN (INCLUDING PIZZERIAS)

La Sila—Located in the Latin Quarter, La Sila boasts very fresh produce, such regional specialties as veal scallopini and homemade ravioli, and a very complete Italian wine list. Lunch Monday-Friday 11:30 am-2:30 pm. Dinner Monday-Saturday 5:30-11 pm, Sunday 5-10 pm. Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards. 2040 Rue St. Denis (Sherbrooke Metro stop), phone 514-844-5083.

Le Latini—The menu in this fine Italian restaurant changes weekly, with daily table d'hotes (fixed-price meals). Savor the fabulous risotto. Lunch Monday-Friday 11:30 am-3 pm, dinner Monday-Saturday 5 pm-midnight. $$-$$$. 1130 Jeanne Mance (Place des Arts or Place d'Armes Metro stops), phone 514-861-3166.

Porto Fino—This downtown favorite has a charming atmosphere. Homemade pastas, good veal and seafood dishes. Monday-Friday 11:30 am-11 pm, Saturday and Sunday 5 pm-11 pm. Reservations. $$. Most major credit cards. 2040 Rue la Montagne (Peel Metro stop), phone 514-849-2225.

ADDITIONAL EXPERIENCES

Cafe Cherrier—Located just north of the Latin Quarter, this cafe has a lovely terrace with a perfect view of Carre Saint Louis (St. Louis Square). Though they serve breakfast, lunch and dinner, it's the perfect place for a cafe au lait and croissant or just a glass of wine. Simple French bistro fare is served to a loyal clientele who are as interested in watching passers-by as they are in the menu. Monday-Friday 7:30 am-11 pm, Saturday-Sunday 8:30 am-midnight. $$. 3635 St. Denis, phone 514-843-4308.

Chez Delmo—Chez Delmo specializes in fresh seafood—from lobster and oysters to Canadian Arctic char and halibut. The restaurant also has two bars. Lunch Monday-Friday 11:30 am-2:30 pm, dinner Tuesday-Saturday 5:30-10:30 pm. $$. 211 Notre Dame W. (Place d'Armes Metro stop), phone 514-849-4061.