Mexicans place great importance on dining. The main meal is usually eaten between 2 and 4 pm at a leisurely pace. A good deal of business can be conducted during those long lunch hours. Most restaurants remain open into the evening, so even though you may dine as early as you choose, don’t expect to see many others until 9 pm. Typical hours for breakfast are 8-11 am, for lunch 2-4 pm and for dinner 9-11 pm. Many of the large hotels offer sumptuous breakfast buffets and weekend brunches.

Not-to-be-missed treats representing authentic Mexican cuisine are tacos de pollo (chicken wrapped in tortillas), carne asada (thin slices of broiled beef fillet) and enchiladas suizas (chicken-filled tortillas, covered with a delicious sauce of green tomatillos, sour cream and cheese). If you see chile rellenos (poblano peppers stuffed with cheese or meat) with a walnut cream sauce, be sure to order them! Also try sopa de tortilla (chicken-tomato broth poured over strips of fried tortillas): very tasty and not too spicy. And remember: Mexicans sip their tequila, so don’t gulp yours down in one shot!

Expect to pay within these general guidelines, based on the cost of dinner for one, not including drinks, tax or tip:

$ = less than 85 pesos
$$ = 85-175 pesos
$$$ = 175-425 pesos

BEST IN TOWN

San Angel Inn -- Located in the colonial San Angel area to the south, this is a beautifully restored 18th-century hacienda. Elegant dining rooms surround a flower-filled courtyard. Specialties include pepper steak, pork loin and roast duck. A delightful dessert is Bavarian cream topped with fresh strawberries. This is the place to indulge in a margarita, served from individual silver pitchers. Monday-Saturday 1 pm-1 am and Sunday to 9:30 pm. Reservations suggested. Coat and tie required for dinner. $$$. Most major credit cards. Diego Rivera 50 (corner of Altavista), San Angel, phone 5616-1527 or 5616-1402.

Cicero Centenario -- In the heart of the Historic Center, this restaurant is housed in a restored colonial mansion with stained-glass windows and paneled walls. Superb Mexican cuisine. Recommended dishes include the filet Centenario in red wine sauce, sea bass a l’orange, and chicken breasts stuffed with a Mexican delicacy called huitlacoche (a delectable corn fungus). Monday-Saturday 1 pm-1 am, Sunday 1-7 pm. Reservations suggested. $$$. Most major credit cards. Republica de Cuba 79, phone 5521-2934 or 5521-7866. There’s also a branch in La Zona Rosa, but it’s not as atmospheric.

Del Lago Chapultepec -- An outstanding romantic dining spot with a majestic fountain and unique modern architecture overlooking a lake. Specialties of the house are prime rib and grilled meats. Daily 1-6 pm for lunch, 7:30 pm-midnight for dinner. Sunday 1:30-5 pm. Reservations necessary. Coat and tie at lunch and dinner. $$$. Most major credit cards. On Lago Mayor in Chapultepec Park, phone 5515-95868.

Maxim's de Paris -- An outstanding restaurant, with the same traditional elegance and fine cuisine of its Parisian namesake. The tables are set with Limoges china, and the service is excellent. Specialties are Dover sole, poached salmon and roast breast of duck with apples. Live string music. Monday-Friday 1:30 pm-11 pm, Saturday 8-11 pm. $$$. Reservations suggested. Coat and tie required. Campos Eliseos 218 (in the Presidente Inter-Continental), Polanco, phone 5281-3687.

HOT AND TRENDY

La Petaluma -- A popular restaurant, located in the fashionable section of Polanco and very much in vogue right now. Spacious dining area with large windows. It has an open kitchen, so diners can watch their international specialties being prepared. Recommended are the charcoal-broiled tuna and the filet of beef Sichuan. Monday-Saturday 1 pm-1 am. $$. Most major credit cards. Valet parking. Masaryk 513, Polanco, phone 5281-4020.

La Valentina -- Nouvelle Mexican cuisine in hacienda-style decor. A favorite dish is the chicken breast with chile chipotle sauce. Also delicious are the sopa de cilantro and pollo con mole tamarindo. Trio music in the evenings. The restaurant is located on the second floor of a posh shopping center; a popular bar called Bar Fly occupies the first floor. Daily 1 pm-midnight. $$. Most major credit cards. Masaryk 393 (in the Plaza Mazaryk), Polanco, phone 5282-2812.

Los Girasoles -- Light nouvelle Mexican cuisine in one of the trendiest restaurants in town. Meats and fish blended with exotic herbs. The adventurous may try fried grasshoppers or maguey worms—traditional pre-Hispanic fare that is making a comeback in the city. Tropical fruit desserts. Reservations suggested for lunch. Monday-Saturday 1:30 pm-1 am, Sunday 1:30-8 pm. $$. Most major credit cards. Plaza Manuel Tolsa on Calle Tacuba (downtown), phone 5510-0630.

LOCAL FAVORITES

Cafe de Tacuba -- Among the city’s best-established restaurants, with handsome Mexican decor (hand-painted antique tiles, 18th-century paintings). Enchiladas Tacuba (chicken-filled tortillas covered with a spinach and green poblano pepper sauce) are especially delicious; so are the Chalupas a la Poblana. Daily 8 am (great choice for a real Mexican breakfast) to 11:30 pm. The downtown restaurant has spirited mariachi music on Wednesday nights and estudiantina (student) singers Wednesday-Sunday. $. Most major credit cards. Tacuba 28 (in the Historic Center), phone 5518-4950. There’s a second location in Polanco, but it has no charm.

Fonda del Recuerdo -- Lively marimba music has folks tapping their feet as heaping platters of huachinango a la Veracruzana (sea bass Veracruz style) emerge from the kitchen of this seafood emporium. Squid, crab and lobster dishes, plus the smooth-but-lethal toritos—tequila mixed with exotic fruit juices—have made this one of the most popular spots in town since it opened more than 20 years ago. Monday-Saturday noon-midnight, Sunday 10 am-7 pm. Reservations advised. $$. Most major credit cards. Bahia de las Palmas 37 (about 10 blocks east of the Camino Real Hotel), phone 5260-1292 or 5260-2045.

La Cava -- A magnificent restaurant with a mix of Mexican and Mediterranean decor. You may dine next to a fountain in a lovely patio area. The menu has excellent Mexican and international dishes; some favorites are the quail and the trout amandine. Live piano and string music. Monday-Saturday 1 pm-1 am, Sundays 1-6 pm. $$$. Most major credit cards. Insurgentes Sur 2465 (in the south, near Avenida San Jeronimo and just before University City), phone 5550-0852.

La Hacienda de los Morales -- A lovely, restored colonial building that used to be a hacienda in what is now the posh Polanco neighborhood. It has a beautifully kept garden and a large courtyard with Mexican decor. Excellent Continental and Mexican cuisine. The shrimp in tequila sauce is delicious, and don’t miss the cold walnut soup. Live piano and violin music. Coat and tie required. Daily 1 pm-midnight. $$$. Reservations necessary. Vazquez de Mella 525, Los Morales, Polanco, phone 5281-4703.

FRENCH

Fouquet's de Paris -- Straight from its famed Parisian namesake, with the same French cuisine, atmosphere and service. It’s one of the capital’s outstanding restaurants. Excellent wines. Soft music after 1:30 pm. Monday-Friday 7 am-11 am, 1:30-5:30 pm, 7:30-11 pm, Saturday 8 pm-midnight, closed Sunday. Jacket and tie at night. Reservations advised. $$$. Most major credit cards. Mariano Escobedo 700 (at the Camino Real Hotel), phone 5203-2121, ext. 8500.

Les Celebrites -- Very elegant and popular spot in the Hotel Nikko in Polanco. Specialties include smoked salmon and rack of lamb. Piano lounge. Monday-Saturday 7-11 am, 1:30-4:30 pm and 7:30-11:30 pm. $$$. Most major credit cards. Campos Eliseos 204, Polanco, phone 5282-2222.

Les Moustaches -- Elegant French-Continental atmosphere in a European-style, turn-of-the-century mansion. The main dining room is a leafy covered garden. Specialties include tongue Veronique in a champagne and fresh grape sauce, as well as trout marinated in white wine. Lavish dessert menu. Monday-Saturday 1 pm-midnight. Coat and tie. Reservations advised. $$$. Most major credit cards. Rio Sena 88 (a few blocks east of the U.S. Embassy), phone 5533-3390.

ASIAN

Suntory -- Some of the best Japanese food in Mexico. You can eat in one of the private dining rooms, the teppanyaki room (where your meal is cooked on a grill in front of you) or at the sushi bar. Monday-Thursday 1-11 pm, Friday and Saturday 1-11:30 pm, Sunday 1-9 pm. Reservations advised. $$$. Most major credit cards. Two locations: Torres Adalid 14 (in the south), phone 5536-9432, and Montes Urales 555 (in Lomas Chapultepec), phone 5202-4711.

Chez Wok -- Haute Chinese cuisine in impressive surroundings, with excellent service. The extensive menu features glazed duck and filet of beef in orange sauce. Monday-Saturday 1:30-5 pm and 7:30 pm-midnight, Sunday 1:30-5 pm. $$$. Reservations recommended. Tennyson 177, Polanco, phone 5281-3410.

Hunan -- An elegant Chinese restaurant, specializing in Hunan-style cuisine. Located in Lomas, a choice residential spot. Pretty decor—a dining area surrounded by lush greenery. Monday-Saturday 1:30 pm-midnight, Sunday 1:30-6 pm. $$$. Reforma 2210 (corner of Ixtlan), Lomas de Chapultepec (about 5 mi/8 km west of the city center), phone 5596-5011.

Luau -- Located in La Zona Rosa, this is a traditional favorite for Chinese food, Cantonese style. Authentic cuisine and decor, which includes a pond and fountain. Monday-Thursday noon-10:30 pm, Friday and Saturday noon-11:45 pm, Sunday noon-9:45 pm. No reservations. $$. Most major credit cards. Niza 38, phone 525-7474.

ADDITIONAL DINING EXPERIENCES

Anderson's -- Extremely popular with residents and tourists alike, this restaurant near La Zona Rosa is small but full of action and usually crowded. Very informal atmosphere, friendly service, good Mexican specialties grilled and served with sauces. Try the barbecued ribs. Monday-Saturday 1 pm-midnight, Sunday 1-6 pm. No reservations. $$. Most major credit cards. Main branch: Reforma 382, near the Angel monument, phone 5208-2150.

El Meson del Perro Andaluz -- Named after the movie by Luis Bunuel, this place with its outdoor terrace is the perfect site for people watching. It’s situated right in the center of La Zona Rosa, near many other small restaurants in a pedestrian mall. Try one of the Spanish dishes—paella or fabada (bean casserole)—or the salmon pasta. It gets crowded on weekends. Open daily noon-1 am. No reservations. $-$$. Copenhague 29 (in La Zona Rosa), phone 5533-5306.

Sir Winston Churchill's -- A remodeled Tudor-style mansion with wood paneling, beamed ceilings and garden. Traditional British fare. Favorites are prime rib with Yorkshire pudding and steak-and-kidney pie. Monday-Saturday 1 pm-1 am. Reservations suggested. Though not required, a coat and tie would make you feel comfortable there. $$$. Most major credit cards. Avila Camacho 67 (in Polanco), phone 5280-6070.

ADDITIONAL DINING EXPERIENCES

Los Girasoles -- Light nouvelle Mexican cuisine in one of the trendiest restaurants in town. Meats and fish blended with exotic herbs. The adventurous may try fried grasshoppers or maguey worms -- traditional pre-Hispanic fare that is making a comeback in the city. Tropical fruit desserts. Reservations suggested for lunch. Monday-Saturday 1:30 pm-1 am, Sunday 1:30-8 pm. $$. Major credit cards. Plaza Manuel Tolsa on Calle Tacuba (downtown), phone 510-0630.

Anderson's -- Extremely popular with residents and tourists alike, this restaurant in La Zona Rosa is small but full of action and usually crowded. Very informal, zany atmosphere, friendly service, good international specialties grilled and served with sauces. Monday-Saturday 1 pm-midnight, Sunday 1-6 pm. No reservations. $$. Most major credit cards. Main branch: Reforma 382, near the Angel monument, phone 208-2150.

El Meson del Perro Andaluz -- Named after the movie by Luis Bunuel, this place with its outdoor terrace is the perfect site for people watching. It's situated right in the center of La Zona Rosa, near many other small restaurants in a pedestrian mall. Try one of the Spanish dishes -- paella or fabada (bean casserole) -- or the salmon pasta. It gets crowded on weekends. Open daily noon-1 am. No reservations. $. Copenhague 29 (in La Zona Rosa), phone 533-5306.

Sir Winston Churchill's -- A remodeled Tudor-style mansion with wood paneling, beamed ceilings and garden. Traditional British fare. Favorites are prime rib with Yorkshire pudding and steak-and-kidney pie. Monday-Saturday 1 pm-1 am. Reservations suggested. Though not required, a coat and tie would make you feel comfortable there. $$$. Most major credit cards. Avila Camacho 67 (in Polanco), phone 5280-6070.

BREAKFAST

Casa del Azulejos (House of Tiles) -- This is a wonderful place for a traditional Mexican breakfast, such as a plate of sliced papaya, huevos rancheros (eggs on a tortilla smothered in tomatoes and onions), cafe con leche (hot milk with a bit of coffee in a tall glass) and fresh Mexican sweet rolls. The restaurant has a gorgeous colonial interior filled with Mexican tiles, high ceilings and murals gracing the old-fashioned stairwells. Owned by the Sanborn’s chain. Open daily 7:30 am-1 am. No reservations. $. Most major credit cards. Madero 4 (in the Historic Center), phone 5512-9820.

La Terraza -- The Sunday breakfast buffet is both inexpensive and splendid at the terrace restaurant on the rooftop of the Hotel Majestic. Sitting at its umbrella-shaded tables gives you an unparalleled view of action in the huge Zocalo below. (This is also the ideal spot for a drink later in the day. Go around 5 pm and watch soldiers lower the gigantic flag in the middle of the Zocalo.) Daily 7 am-midnight. $. Hotel Majestic, Madero 73, phone 5521-8600.