Variety is the key word in London, where the culinary specialties of a couple dozen countries and regions reflect the cosmopolitan nature of the city. Different areas evoke different cuisines: For the best Chinese, go to Gerrard Street, W1, in Chinatown; for cheap, authentic Indian food, head for Brick Lane, E1; for Middle Eastern, try Edgeware Road, W2. For something cheap and filling, try a pub.

Traditionally, London has had good restaurants offering cuisines from its former colonies, but now a renaissance of sorts is happening within British cuisine. Londoners are now obsessed with good food. Celebrity chefs are vying to open ever trendier restaurants in Soho and Kensington. The "New British" cuisine consists of traditional English (or Scottish or Welsh) ingredients blended with Continental styles. When the combination works and the ingredients are fresh, the result is delightful.

out is expensive. But keep in mind that menu prices always include 17.5% VAT. The gratuity may be added to the bill by your waiter; if not, you are expected to tip 10%-15%. Some restaurants—typically, Italian ones—assess a cover charge (not a tip) of £1-£2 per person, intended to cover the cost of bread or other nibbles placed on the table. It's a good idea to reserve a table at all restaurants, save the most humble.

Below is a sampling of restaurants in town. Expect to pay within these general guidelines, based on the cost of a dinner for one, including tax, but not tip, and not including drinks: $ = less than £10; $$ = £10-£20; $$$ = £21-£50; $$$$ = more than £50.

FAVORITE RESTAURANTS

Cafe Baroque—Sit back and enjoy the intimate, elegant atmosphere in Hilary Marsh's dining room. The modern British cuisine is as exceptional as the service. You can even try British tapas in the Cafe Bar. If you're headed to a West End performance, try their Express Theatre Menu for £10.95. The wine list includes a fine range—100 selections, with 25 available by the glass. Daily noon-3 pm and 5:45 pm to late closing. $-$$. Most major credit cards. 33 Southampton St., Covent Garden, WC2, London. Phone 7379-7585.

Dorchester Grill Room—Holding its place at the forefront of hotel dining excellence, the Dorchester Grill Room serves quality British cuisine in surroundings of pure elegance. Here's the place to try out steak and kidney pie, beef and Yorkshire pudding and English trifle for dessert. Breakfast Monday-Saturday 7-11 am, Sunday 7:30-11 am. Lunch daily 12:30-2:30 pm. Dinner Monday-Saturday 6-11 pm, Sunday 7-10:30 pm. $$$$. Most major credit cards. 53 Park Lane (facing Hyde Park), W1, London. Phone 7317-6336.

Gordon Ramsey—Renowned chef Gordon Ramsey has struck off in his own new restaurant venture. The food at this Chelsea restaurant can be described as a new twist on traditional French cuisine. Daily noon-3 pm and 6:45 pm-midnight. Last orders are taken at 10:30 pm. Reservations required. $$$$. Most major credit cards. 68 Royal Hospital Rd., SW3, London. Phone 7352-4441.

Le Gavroche—The haute-cuisine establishment of Albert Roux offers exceptionally high standards recognized by numerous awards. Monday-Friday noon-2 pm and 7-11 pm. Reservations required. $$$$. Most major credit cards. 43 Upper Brook St. (near the U.S. Embassy), Mayfair, W1, London. Phone 7408-0881.

Mash—Chaotic, cool and relatively inexpensive, this Fitzrovia hangout is perfect for a casual meal—if you've got it together to book far ahead. Specialties include pizzas, pastas and salads with attitude. The bar downstairs is for being seen. Monday-Saturday noon-3 pm and 6-11 pm, Sunday noon-10 pm. Reservations required. $$. Most major credit cards. 19-21 Great Portland St., W1, London. Phone 7637-5555.

Moro—This airy, sleek restaurant and tapas bar serves modern Spanish cuisine with Moorish/North African influences. The food is created with mostly organic, free-range, fresh and healthy ingredients. The restaurant is open Monday-Friday 12:30-2:30 pm and 7-10:30 pm. The tapas bar is open Monday-Friday 12:30-10:30 pm. Both are closed Saturday and Sunday. Reservations required. $$$. Most major credit cards. 34-36 Exmouth Market, EC1, London. Phone 7833-8336.

Pharmacy—This ultratrendy Notting Hill restaurant and bar is lined inside with shelves displaying medicines, ointments and creams—a creation of Damien Hirst. The cuisine is advertised as modern European. The sign out front may confuse: The letters are periodically rearranged into such anagrams as Achy Ramp or Army Chap, the result of a lawsuit challenging the restaurant's right to have the words "Pharmacy" displayed. Monday-Saturday 12:30-2:45 pm and 7-10:45 pm, Sunday 7-10 pm. Reservations required. $$$-$$$$. Most major credit cards. 150 Notting Hill Gate, W11, London. Phone 7221-2442.

LOCAL AND REGIONAL SPECIALTIES

Bibendum—British design guru Terrence Conran's flagship restaurant serves New British cuisine in a high-style setting. You'll also taste some of the best (and priciest) fish-and-chips in London. Lunch Monday-Friday 12:30-2:30 pm, Saturday and Sunday 12:30-3 pm. Dinner Monday-Saturday 7-11:30 pm, Sunday 7-10:30 pm. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Michelin House, 81 Fulham Rd., Fulham, SW3, London. Phone 7581-5817.

Mezzo—This boisterous megarestaurant in the heart of Soho is the latest creation of style guru Terence Conran. It's a great place for sampling modern British cuisine. Lunch Monday-Friday noon-2:30 pm. Dinner Sunday-Wednesday 6-11 pm, Thursday-Saturday 6 pm-1 am. $$$. Most major credit cards. 100 Wardour St., W1, London. Phone 7314-4000.

Simpson's-in-the-Strand—Excellent traditional English meat and fish dishes are served in the atmosphere of an exclusive gentleman's club. A wide range of fine wines and ports is available. Monday-Friday 7 am-2:30 pm and 5:30 pm-1 am (Monday only until 11 pm); Saturday noon-2:30 pm and 5:30 pm-1 am; Sunday noon-2:30 pm and 6-9 pm. Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards. 100 Strand, WC2, London. Phone 7836-9112.

ASIAN

Blue Elephant—This place is widely regarded as the best Thai restaurant in London. An extensive vegetarian menu is available. Monday-Saturday 7 pm-12:30 am, Sunday 7-10:30 pm. $$. Most major credit cards. 4 Fulham Broadway, SW6. Phone 7385-6595.

Bombay Brasserie—This restaurant carries diners to the Age of the British Raj. Yards of space between tables, potted palms, overhead fans and fine cuisine deliver an authentic (if expensive) taste of India. Daily noon-3 pm and 7:30-11:30 pm. $$$. Most major credit cards. Courtfield Close, Gloucester Road, SW7. Phone 7370-4040.

Poons—There are several Poons, all serving delicious Chinese food. We recommend the crispy duck with pancakes. The original on Lisle Street doesn't take credit cards and has a very minimalist approach to atmosphere. Daily noon-11:30 pm. $-$$. 27 Lisle St., WC2, phone 7437-4549, and 4 Leicester St. (just off Leicester Square), WC2, phone 7437-1528.

Red Fort—This upscale Indian restaurant is tastefully decorated and offers a regularly changing menu of northern Indian foods. Lunch daily noon-2:30 pm; dinner Monday-Saturday 6-11:30 pm, Sunday 6-11 pm. $$$. Most major credit cards. 77 Dean St., W1. Phone 7437-2525.

Royals Indian Cuisine—Dine on fine, inexpensive northern Indian cuisine in Covent Garden. Try the kabab shaslik (spiced lamb roasted in a clay oven) or the trout tandoori. A vegetarian buffet is available every day. Daily noon-2:30 pm and 5:30-11:45 pm. $. Most major credit cards. 3-7 Endell St., WC2. Phone 7379-1099.

CAFES AND TEA ROOMS

The Dorchester—Elegant, leisurely afternoon tea is served daily 3-6 pm in the Promenade at this hotel. A selection of sandwiches, fresh scones with clotted cream and jam, crumpets, fresh pastries, tea and coffee is brought around continuously by white-gloved waiters. A pianist provides background music. Reservations essential. $$. Most major credit cards. 53 Park Lane (at Hyde Park Corner), W1. Phone 7629-8888.

Fortnum and Mason—The famous department store serves both traditional high tea and afternoon tea. (High tea includes a hot dish such as Welsh Rarebit or other traditional English foods.) A violinist or pianist is usually performing. Monday-Saturday 3-5:15 pm. $ for afternoon tea, $$ for high tea. Most major credit cards. St. James Restaurant, 4th Floor, 181 Piccadilly, W1. Phone 7734-8040.

The Ritz—Afternoon tea is served in the Palm Court of the hotel. Traditional cake stands entice you with unlimited supplies of finger sandwiches, scones and pastries. Service can occasionally feel a bit rushed because you're rarely permitted to stay more than one and a half hours. Tea is served without reservations at 2 pm; reserved sittings at 3:30 and 5 pm. (If you want to linger, try the 5 pm tea, because "they won't throw you out if you have a scone on your plate," according to a spokeswoman.) Reservations for the two late sittings should be made up to one month in advance for weekdays, to two months ahead for weekends. $$$. Most major credit cards. 150 Piccadilly, W1. Phone 7493-8181.

The Savoy—Afternoon tea served daily in this elegant hotel, with a copious stream of sandwiches, cakes and teas. Monday-Saturday 3-5:30 pm, Sunday afternoon tea 2:30-4 pm, then a tea dance 4:40-6 pm with a four-piece band. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. The Strand, WC2. Phone 7836-4343.

COFFEEHOUSES

Bar Italia—This is one of the liveliest late-night coffee bars in bustling Soho—an authentic blast of Italy, complete with sports TV, frothing cappuccinos, snacks and Formica-top tables. There's a small selection of meals available (around £6), including cooked breakfasts. It's always packed. Monday-Thursday 7 am-5 am, Friday-Sunday open 24 hours. $. No credit cards. 22 Frith St., W1. Phone 7437-4520.

FRENCH

The Ark—The Ark is an intimate, atmospheric, modern French bistro. Lunch Monday-Friday noon-3 pm; dinner Monday-Thursday 6-11 pm, Friday and Saturday 6 pm-midnight. $$. Most major credit cards. 122 Palace Gardens Terrace (a back street between Kensington and Nottinghill Gate), Notting Hill, W8. Phone 7229-4024.

Aubergine—With its new one-star Michelin chef, this Chelsea hot spot still turns out great British versions of classic French cuisine. The service is always superb. Monday-Friday 12:15-2:30 pm and 7-10:35 pm, Saturday 7-10:45 pm. Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards. 11 Park Walk, SW10. Phone 7352-3449.

Mirabelle—This glamorous place is relatively affordable for a Marco Pierre White restaurant. Savor the relaxed approach to classic French cuisine. The wine list is excellent. Lunch Monday-Friday noon-2:30 pm, Saturday noon-3 pm. Dinner Monday-Saturday 6 pm-midnight, Sunday 6-10:30 pm. Reservations required. $$$-$$$$. Most major credit cards. 56 Curzon St., Mayfair, W1. Phone 7499-4636.

ITALIAN (INCLUDING PIZZERIAS)

Bertorelli's—Since 1913 Bertorelli's has been serving great Italian food, with a menu featuring both contemporary and traditional dishes. The interior of this popular eatery has a sleek new look. Floral Street hours: Monday-Saturday noon-3 pm and 5:30-11:30 pm. Charlotte Street location is open daily 10 am-midnight. $$. Most major credit cards. 44a Floral St., Covent Garden, WC2, phone 7836-3969; and 19 Charlotte St., Fitzrovia, W1, phone 7636-4174.

River Cafe—This place is almost as famous for its decor, created by world-famous architect Richard Rogers, as for the inventive neo-Italian cuisine prepared by Ruth Rogers and Rose Gray. After a delightful meal with an enchanting view, diners can stroll along the Thames. It's hard to reach via public transport, but not too difficult by taxi. Monday-Saturday 12:30-3 pm and 7:30-9:30 pm. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Thames Wharf, Rainville Road, Hammersmith, W6. Phone 7381-8824.

MIDDLE EASTERN

Maroush I—Maroush I is the largest and most classically Lebanese of the six restaurants in the London-based chain. Feast on spicy meat entrees and no less than 41 rich appetizers such as maroush kalaj (hallowmi cheese in pastry) and warak inab bizeit (stuffed vine leaves), as well as pastries. No alcohol is served. Live entertainment, which might include belly dancers, singers or violinists, is presented nightly 10 pm-2 am. Customers who linger for the entertainment must spend (or be charged) £50 per person. Daily noon-2 am. Reservations recommended for the weekend. $$$. Most major credit cards. 21 Edgeware Rd., W2. Phone 7723-0773.

VEGETARIAN

Blah! Blah! Blah!—Sample vegetarian cuisine at its trendiest and most beautiful, with a strong international influence. The restaurant is high on taste, low on atmosphere. Two or three vegan options are always on the menu. Monday-Saturday 12:30-2:30 pm and 7-11 pm. Reservations recommended for dinner. $$. No credit cards. 78 Goldhawk Rd., W12. Phone 8746-1337.

Food for Thought—A longtime favorite in central London, this cozy Covent Garden spot serves up large helpings of hearty but delicious vegetarian fare. The desserts are especially tasty. Come early if you want a seat. Monday-Saturday 9:30-11:30 am and noon-8:30 pm, Sunday noon-4 pm. $. No credit cards. 31 Neal St., WC2. Phone 7836-0239.

ADDITIONAL EXPERIENCES

Bank Restaurant and Bar—This is a great place to go if you can't decide what you're hungry for—the menu has a variety of sophisticated flavors to choose from. From English fish-and-chips and Cajun blackened chicken to Thai grilled tuna and Chateaubriand, you can't make a poor selection. Breakfast Monday-Friday 7-11 am. Weekend brunch 11:30 am-3:30 pm. Lunch Monday-Friday noon-3 pm. Dinner daily 5:30-11 pm. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. 1 Kingsway, Aldwych, WC2. Phone 7234-3344.

Cafe-in-the-Crypt—This little cafe beneath St. Martin-in-the-Fields church, with its vaulted ceiling and flagstone floor, is an ideal spot to take a break from the bustle of London. At 1 pm on Monday, Tuesday and Friday there are free concerts in the church—a perfect complement to the homemade food. Monday-Saturday 10 am-6 pm. $. No credit cards. Trafalgar Square, WC2. Phone 7930-0089.

The Engineer—Set in idyllic Primrose Hill, just north of Regent's Park, this restaurant serves imaginative Mediterranean and some modern English cuisine in a converted pub and inn. On a warm (rare) summer day you can eat on the garden terrace, if you've made arrangements in advance. Daily 11 am-10:30 pm, reservations required. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. 65 Gloucester Ave., NW1. Phone 7722-0950.

Fox & Anchor—This pub traditionally served the meat porters in the Smithfield Market; now it's a regular haunt for tourists, lawyers and stag parties. At 200 years old, this place is still turning out huge, traditional English breakfasts, and it's perhaps the only place in London where you can buy a pint of beer at 7 am. Monday-Friday 7 am-8:30 pm. $-$$. Most major credit cards. Charterhouse Street, EC1. Phone 7253-4838.