A couple of Frankfurt specialties are grune sosse (green sauce: rich cream or mayonnaise base with herbs, including cress, chives, sorrel and parsley) and rippchen mit kraut (pork chop and sauerkraut). Another local food to try is Handkas mit Musik, a form of curd cheese served with raw onions, oil and vinegar and almost always eaten with bread and butter. It's too strong for some tastes, and its music comes from the gas it produces. The classic Frankfurt drink is apfelwein (known in the local dialect as ebbelwoi), an apple wine served in a decorative clay pitcher (called a bembel).

Travelers with expense accounts have driven up prices in some restaurants, but in most places you'll find them quite reasonable. Reservations are recommended for most restaurants in Frankfurt, especially during trade fairs. Restaurants, if you need to look one up in the phone book, are usually listed under Gaststatten.

Fressen is the German word for "devour," and the Fressgass, a nickname for Grosse Bockenheimer Strasse, is the premier eating district in the city. Cafes, delicatessens, restaurants and many other palate pleasers can be found there. It's near the business district and is popular with the city's residents, particularly during the frequent festivals that fill the streets. Another popular area is the pedestrian zone of Alt Sachsenhausen, where you'll find apfelwein taverns as well as pubs and restaurants.

Below is a sampling of restaurants in town. Expect to pay within these general guidelines based on the cost of a dinner for one, not including drinks (price ranges here include taxes and service fees): $ = less than 20 DM; $$ = 20 DM-30 DM; $$$ = 31 DM-70 DM; $$$$ = more than 70 DM.

FAVORITE RESTAURANTS

Eichkatzerl—They serve a solid battery of German dishes ready to be washed down with homemade apfelwein (or beer for the uninitiated). All that plus an authentic tavern atmosphere. Tuesday-Sunday 3 pm-midnight. $$. No credit cards. Dreieichstrasse 29, Frankfurt. Phone 617-480.

ASIAN

Bombay Palace—The menu includes a broad range of Indo-Pakistani dishes: chicken, lamb, seafood and vegetarian. The restaurant also boasts the only operating Tandoori oven in town. Lunch Tuesday-Sunday noon-3 pm, dinner nightly 6 pm-midnight. $$. Most major credit cards. Abtsgasschen 8. Phone 626-310.

Rainbow Garden—Rococo Thai decor sets the stage for exquisite Thai cuisine. The extensive menu features all the standards as well as little-known dishes from the Isarn province. Daily 11:30 am-3 pm and 5:30 pm-midnight. $$$. Most major credit cards. Dusseldorfer Strasse 1-7. Phone 252-066. There's another branch in the Arabella Grand hotel.

Tao—This is far and away the area's best Vietnamese restaurant, offering a wide range of styles and tastes. Weekly and monthly specials add to the extensive standing menu. Tuesday-Friday noon-2:30 pm and 6-11 pm, Saturday 6-11 pm, Sunday noon-2:30 pm and 6-11 pm. $$$. Most major credit cards. Friedberger Anlage 14 (Bornheim). Phone 449-844.

Utage—Authentic Japanese fare comes with precision service and beautifully decorated dining areas. Sushi bar and teppan grill. Monday-Saturday noon-3 pm and 6-10 pm. $$$-$$$$. Most major credit cards. Taunustor 2. Phone 253-826.

FAST FOOD

A'mir Sandwich—Top-notch Lebanese street food: lamb and chicken schawarma in pita bread, falafel, salads and meat and vegetarian turnovers. It's a great stop before or after an Alt Sachsenhausen pub crawl. Sunday-Thursday 11 am-2 am, Friday and Saturday 11 am-3 am. (Open till 4 am during trade fairs.) $. No credit cards. Paradiesgasse 46. Phone 623-333.

La Rosticceria—This infectiously friendly spot has found its niche in Italian-style fast food. A gallery of antipasti, pizzas and pastas and an excellent daily special. Excellent espresso and cappuccino. Monday-Friday 7 am-6:30 pm, Saturday 8 am-2 pm. $. No credit cards. Allianz Passage, Shop No. 50. Phone 292-640.

FRENCH

Erno's Bistro—This Michelin-star kitchen turns out classic French dishes in addition to innovative nouvelle and post-nouvelle cuisine. Try the homemade pates. Meat and fish entrees are always superb, as are the desserts. The atmosphere is true country bistro style. Monday-Friday noon-2 pm and 7-10 pm. Reservations required. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Liebigstrasse 15. Phone 721-997.

GERMAN

Schuch's—A handsome, cozy, three-sectioned complex (one of which is nonsmoking), Schuch's offers lighter versions of Hessian classics. Try the grune sosse, the apple sherry steak or the Hessian sauerkraut plate. Tuesday-Friday 11 am-2:30 pm and 5 pm-midnight, Saturday 11 am-midnight, Sunday 11 am-11 pm. $$$. MasterCard only. Alt Praunheim 11, Frankfurt. Phone 761-005.

Waldches—Substantial and tasty German fare is served in hearty portions at this rustic eatery. The real star is the homemade beer. In winter, you can watch it being made from your table. In warmer weather, sit outside in the garden setting. Monday-Saturday noon-12:30 am (in winter it opens at 4 pm), Sunday noon-11 pm. $-$$. No credit cards. Woogstrasse 52 (Ginnheim), Frankfurt. Phone 520-522.

Zum Rad—This popular, down-home place is in the more rustic Seckbach section of town. Apfelwein is served with a wide selection of hearty and light local dishes. We liked the Kassler pork chop and the pork shoulder with sauerkraut and mashed potatoes. It's most appealing when fine weather allows for wining and dining in the tree-shaded garden. Monday and Wednesday-Saturday 5 pm-midnight, Sunday 3 pm-midnight. $$. No credit cards. Leonhardsgasse 2, Frankfurt. Phone 479-128.

GREEK

Exedra—Excellent Hellenic fare is served up in ample portions. Fish and lamb dishes are highly recommended, as are the mixed starter plates. Good selection of Greek wines, too. Monday-Saturday 11:30 am-midnight, Sunday 4 pm-midnight. $$$. Most major credit cards. Heiligkreuzgasse 29. Phone 287-397.

ITALIAN (INCLUDING PIZZERIAS)

Cafe im Filmmuseum—This is possibly the best value-for-money eatery in Frankfurt. The kitchen prepares flavorful Sardinian dishes at very reasonable prices. Pasta in rich sauces, seafood and Sardinian-style lamb and rabbit are highlights. It also has standard cafe fare—coffees and desserts. Tuesday-Sunday 11 am-midnight. $$. No credit cards. Schaumainkai 41. Phone 617-191.

Da Claudio—This much-loved bastion of hearty Italian cuisine is sure to please. The rustic atmosphere fits the kitchen style perfectly. We especially liked the pasta trio and the mixed seafood plate. Monday-Friday noon-2:30 pm and 6-11 pm, Sunday 6-11 pm. Closed Saturday. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Zum Jungen Strasse 10. Phone 565-471.

La Trattoria—Their excellent preparations range from familiar Italian classics to imaginative creations. The good wine list, attractive decor and friendly, informed service add to the enjoyment. Portions are rather small, but you're required to order two courses. Monday-Friday noon-2 pm and 6-10 pm. During major trade fairs, also Saturday 6-10 pm. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Furstenbergstrasse 179. Phone 552-130.

MIDDLE EASTERN

Turkis—This smallish, attractive boite near Frankfurt's historic Romer features Turkish delights. The soups, stews and grilled meat specialties are especially commendable, but the Turkish wines and unusual desserts also merit attention. Tuesday-Friday 11:30 am-2:30 pm and 5 pm-midnight, Saturday and Sunday 5 pm-midnight. $$$. Most major credit cards. Bethmannstrasse 11. Phone 296-694.

STEAK HOUSES

Morton's Steakhouse—Rated as the only true American steakhouse in Frankfurt, Morton's menu includes seafood and poultry in addition to prime cuts of beef. Monday-Friday noon-2:30 pm and 6 pm-midnight, Saturday and Sunday 6 pm-midnight. $$$. Most major credit cards. Feuerbachstrasse 11a. Phone 7103-4050.

ADDITIONAL EXPERIENCES

Gebruder Bauer—Twin brothers run the place, and they switch duties annually: While one mans the kitchen, the other provides informed, attentive service. The changing menu features seasonal specialties that fuse local traditions with international trends. The clientele is an easy-going mix, and just about everyone fits in. Sunday-Thursday 6 pm-1 am, Friday and Saturday 6 pm-2 am. Reduced menu after 11 pm. $$$. Most major credit cards. Sandweg 113, Frankfurt. Phone 4059-2744.

Hessler—Owner-chef Doris Hessler is one of Germany's culinary superstars. In her attractive, suburban hotel-restaurant, she creates outstanding cuisine by fusing styles from all over the world. Try the tuna with Asian pesto sauce or the lamb with Arabian spices on couscous. Superb wine list. Wednesday-Sunday noon-3 pm and 7 pm-1 am. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Am Bootshaven 4, Maintal-Dornigheim, Frankfurt. Phone 06181-24662.

King Creole—The Big Easy comes alive with rich Cajun and creole cooking and jazz background music. The seafood gumbo, lamb creole and crab-stuffed chicken are winners. Daily 6 pm-1 am (kitchen closes at 11 pm). $$$. Most major credit cards. Eckenheimer Landstrasse 346. Phone 542-172.

Lounge—This bar-cum-restaurant draws a mixed crowd of young professionals and scene-savvy types. The changing menu is big on multicultural dishes that show off creative impulses of the kitchen. It's a bit overpriced, and service can be cool and inattentive to some, but that's typical of Frankfurt's trendy spots. Monday-Saturday 11 am-10:30 pm, Sunday 6-10:30 pm. Bar is open till 1 am weekdays, 2 am weekends. $$$-$$$$. No credit cards. Weissadlergasse 15, Frankfurt. Phone 288-233.

Meyer's—One of the area's best bistros, Meyer's features international cuisine in addition to local dishes. The atmosphere is classic bistro, with tables close together and bustling staff. It's very popular, so it can get crowded and smoky. Monday-Saturday noon-midnight. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$. Most major credit cards. Grosse Bockenheimer Strasse 54, Frankfurt. Phone 9139-7070.

Sevres—This restaurant and hotel across from the Messe are owned by the Prince of Hesse, and his family's collection of rare Sevres porcelain is displayed in floor-to-ceiling glass cases around the dining room. The menu features light renditions of haute cuisine. Except during big trade fairs, there is a set lunch and dinner menu (three courses plus wine, mineral water and coffee for 49 DM) that's an amazing value for the money. Daily noon-2:30 pm and 6:30-10:30 pm. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Hessischer Hof Hotel, Friedrich Ebert Anlage 40, Frankfurt. Phone 7540-2938.

Tigerpalast—Located downstairs at Frankfurt's top Variete theater, Tigerpalast is known for its special theater meals and good-value set menus (meat, seafood and vegetarian selections). Desserts are obligatory: They're fantastic. Decor is show-biz funky. Tuesday-Sunday 5:30 pm-1 am. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Heiligkreuzgasse 16-20, Frankfurt. Phone 9200-2225.