Florentines, like other Italians, are very proud of their cuisine. "Italian cooking" as such does not exist; Florentine, Roman and Milanese cuisines do. You might say that the cooking in Florence mirrors the character of the city's inhabitants: no frills, solid, dignified.

Typical dishes are the bistecca alla fiorentina, a very thick, high-quality grilled beefsteak, served quite rare, and various rib-sticking, vegetable-based soups served with a drizzle of olive oil on top. Among the soups, two traditional Florentine favorites are pappa al pomodoro (tomato, basil and bread) and ribollita (vegetable soup with bread).

Porcini mushrooms are a staple, too, from risotto ai funghi porcini (rice with porcini) to tagliatelle ai funghi porcini (egg noodles with porcini sauce) to porcini alla griglia (grilled porcini caps). It would be a crime not to elaborate on white beans when talking about Tuscan food. These are deliciously prepared, boiled and served with the best olive oil. The classics are white beans cooked with fresh sage and tomato (fagioli all'uccelletto) and white beans with sausage (fagioli e salsiccia). The prosaic sound of these dishes belies their irresistible flavor.

Tuscany is undeniably one of the greatest wine-producing regions in the world. Chianti is the most ubiquitous, and quality can vary a lot. Other than a good Chianti, you should not leave without tasting the exquisite Brunello di Montalcino (definitely worth the extra expense) or the more moderately priced, but very good, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano.

Navigating the seas of Florentine dining sites—from the unpronounceable fiaschetteria to the enoteca, from the ristorante to the pizzeria and trattoria—can be as bewildering as it is exhilarating. Once upon a time, the trattoria was an everyday establishment offering simple, hearty fare. Nowadays, because the charm of these places has acquired a price tag, a meal in a well-known trattoria may be just as elegant (and expensive) as one in the more soberly named ristorante. Pizzerias frequently offer a whole gamut of choices, from steak to fish, but it's worth remembering that the pizzeria's specialty is pizza. Among the wonderful but lesser-known offerings are the fiaschetteria and enoteca. These specialized wine dealers frequently serve delicious snacks including typical Tuscan sandwiches made with porchetta (roast pork), soup and crostini (bread spread with a Tuscan version of liver pate or tomatoes and basil or anything you can think of). If you'd like to try a take-out specialty and are not too squeamish, try a tripe sandwich from one of the tripe stands (trippaic) in the markets of San Lorenzo, San Ambrogio or Il Porcellino.

Most restaurants open for lunch noon-2:30 pm, with the rush from 1-2 pm. Dinner hours begin at the very earliest at 7 pm (more typically at 7:30 pm) and continue until at least 10 pm. If you want to enjoy your meal at a quiet time, plan to dine between 7:30 and 8 pm.

Below is a sampling of restaurants in town. Expect to pay the following for a dinner for one excluding drinks, tax and service: $ = less than 20,000 lire; $$ = 20,000 lire-35,000 lire; $$$ = 35,001 lire-55,000 lire; $$$$ = more than 55,000 lire.

FAVORITE RESTAURANTS

Cibreo—This eatery boasts an owner-chef (Fabio Picchi) whose unusual and original cuisine attracts fine-tuned palates and a goodly number of noted faces. The first thing you'll notice about the menu is that there is no pasta, which gives you the opportunity to try the minestre (mostly vegetable- and cereal-based soups)—lesser-known and underrated elements of Italian cuisine. Try the polenta all erbe verdi (polenta with green herbs) or choose from among 20 other creative entrees. The bar is a welcoming place to wind down before dinner. Tuesday-Saturday 12:50-2:30 pm and 7-11:15 pm. Reservations required. $$$-$$$$. Most major credit cards. Via dei Macci 118/R, Florence. Phone 055-234-1100.

Relais Le Jardin—The atmosphere is both refined and intimate at this charming site, thanks to two small, attractive dining rooms—one overlooking the garden. Service is excellent, and most important, the food is of the highest quality. The Tuscan/Italian menu changes every two weeks to accommodate seasonal variations in ingredients. Homemade pasta and desserts are a constant, as is the excellent selection of wines. Daily 12:30-2:30 pm and 7:30-10:30 pm. Reservations recommended for lunch, required for dinner. $$$$. Most major credit cards. In the Regency Hotel in the Piazza d'Azeglio, Florence. Phone 055-245-247.

Ristorante-Terrazza Brunelleschi—Located on the top floor of the Grand Hotel Baglioni, across from the Santa Maria Novella station, this restaurant offers a stupendous panorama of Florence. In the summer, you may dine alfresco on the terrace; in the winter, the terrace becomes a glass-enclosed roof garden. The cuisine is good, though not exceptional. Typical Tuscan cooking is highlighted, with such specialties as Tuscan antipasto (a selection of local cold meats and prosciutto) and such splendid desserts as the unique and wicked house specialty, zuppa fiorentina. Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Reservations recommended. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Piazza dell'Unita Italiana 6/R, Florence. Phone 055-235-8560.

Rose's—Much favored by students and Florence's young professionals, Rose's is a pleasant and conveniently central place (just off boutique-lined Via Tornabuoni) to stop off for a drink, a sandwich or a light pasta lunch. In the evenings, Rose's becomes a sushi bar—one of the very few in Florence. More important, for anyone wanting to tune into the city's nightlife scene, early evening (i.e., 10-11 pm) is when Rose's becomes a stopping-off place for partygoers and clubbers. A drink at the bar will fill you in on what's happening in town that night. Monday-Saturday 7 pm-1 am (sushi bar operates 7-11 pm). $-$$. Most major credit cards. Via Parione 26/R, Florence. Phone 055-286-090.

LOCAL AND REGIONAL SPECIALTIES

All'Antico Ristoro di' Cambi—This characteristically Florentine trattoria was once an enoteca; hence, the excellent selection of local wines and olive oil. Its location in the heart of the San Frediano quarter adds to the warm, rustic atmosphere. Specialties include porcini mushroom dishes, bistecca alla fiorentina, ribollita and an amazing pappa al pomodoro. Monday-Saturday 12:15-2:30 pm and 7:30-10:30 pm. Reservations recommended on weekends. $$$. Visa and MasterCard accepted. Via Sant'Onofrio 1/R, Florence. Phone 055-217-134.

Angiolino—The friendly staff and reliably delicious food make this old-style trattoria an unfailingly pleasant place to dine. It's located in the heart of the Oltrarno, halfway between Piazza Santo Spirito and Piazza del Carmine. Among the pastas, the maltagliati all'Angiolino (pasta with tomato, meat and red wine sauce) is an institution, and the wonderfully named gran pezzo ("big piece") is a classic example of Florentine skill in roasting beef, both on the open fire and in the oven. For vegetarians, the fried artichokes, together with other vegetables, are a house specialty. Daily 12:15-2:30 pm and 7:30-10:30 pm. Reservations highly recommended for dinner. $$$. Most major credit cards. Via Santo Spirito 36/R, Florence. Phone 055-239-8976.

Il Contadino—This small trattoria is fun, friendly and extremely cheap. It's a popular place among Italian workmen away from home, and you may find yourself at a table of sociable southerners. The food is mostly Tuscan, tasty and served quickly. Menu changes daily. Fixed-price menus (15,000 lire for lunch, 16,000 lire for dinner) include a first course, a main course and as much wine as you like. Monday-Saturday noon-2:30 pm and 6-9:30 pm. $. No credit cards. Via Palazzuolo 69-71/R, Florence. Phone 055-238-2673.

Mario—A favorite among Florentines and foreigners alike, Mario is more of a theater than a restaurant: The plump ladies in the glass-enclosed kitchen, the friendly service and the crowds sitting at communal tables add up to an intense experience of local color. Its location, in the heart of the colorful San Lorenzo market district, is an added plus. Friday is fish day (the grilled salmon is heavenly). Lunch only: Monday-Saturday noon-3 pm. $$. No credit cards. Via Rosina 2/R, Florence. Phone 055-218-550.

Osteria del Cinghiale Bianco—This place is always packed in the evenings, with good reason: Excellent Tuscan cuisine is complemented by an intimate yet unpretentious atmosphere. Don't miss the strozzapreti (literally, "priest chokers"), light and delicate spinach dumplings. For the adventurous, we recommend homemade egg noodles (pappardelle) in wild boar sauce (the cinghiale of the restaurant's name). Desserts are all homemade, including the decadent mascarpone cream served with a buttery biscuit. The lunch special is an excellent deal at 15,000 lire (not offered on Sunday). Thursday-Monday noon-2:30 pm and 7-10:30 pm. Reservations required. $-$$$. No credit cards. Borgo San Jacopo 43/R, Florence. Phone 055-215-706.

Sostanza—This tiny trattoria has a long history, as you might guess from the faded photos of prominent guests that cover the walls. Nothing could be less pretentious than the atmosphere and the country-style home cooking. Try the vegetable soup (zuppa alla paesana), the homemade tortellini (filled pasta) and the boiled meats. This trattoria attracts a young, lively international clientele. Monday-Friday 12:30-2:10 pm and 7:30-9:45 pm. Closed in August. Reservations highly recommended for dinner. $$$. No credit cards. Via del Porcellana 25/R, Florence. Phone 055-212-691.

ASIAN

Saigon—Florence's only Vietnamese restaurant is worth the 15-minute walk from the center if you've had your fill of Florentine fare. It's tastefully furnished and has a large outdoor dining area in summer. Dishes are fairly simple, with lots of fresh vegetables, and frying is kept to a minimum. Tuesday-Sunday noon-3 pm and 7:30-midnight. $$. Visa only. Via del Ponte alle Mosse 2-8/R, Florence. Phone 055-350-541.

CAFES AND TEA ROOMS

The annoying thing about cafes in the center of Florence is that either they have no tables at which to sit down or you have to pay double the price to do so. There is, however, a small number of comfy cafes where you can eat, drink and talk at leisure. Although Italians don't usually bother with breakfast (apart from a cappuccino and a brioche), these places offer an array of sandwiches, savory snacks, cakes, tea and coffee.

Caffetteria Piansa—Monday-Saturday 7:30 am-8:30 pm. $. No credit cards. Borgo Pinti 18/R, Florence. Phone 055-234-2362.

La Latteria—Daily 8 am-midnight. $. No credit cards. Via degli Alfani 39/R, Florence. Phone 055-247-8878.

ITALIAN (INCLUDING PIZZERIAS)

Ristorante Santa Lucia—The pasta and pizza more than compensate for the lack of atmosphere, the somewhat rude service and the 15-minute walk from the center of town. Naples is the birthplace of pizza, and this restaurant is owned and operated by a Neapolitan family who produce what is arguably the best pizza in town. Among the house specialties, the rigatoni alla Sorrentino (short pasta with mozzarella cheese, fresh tomato and basil) and polpo alla Luciana (octopus slow-cooked with herbs and tomato) are outstanding. Thursday-Tuesday 7:30 pm-1 am. Reservations recommended, especially on weekends. $$. No credit cards. Via Ponte alle Mosse 102/R, Florence. Phone 055-353-255.

Ristorante Vinesio—This Oltrarno restaurant offers a chance to experience the cuisine from another region of Italy—that of Puglia. It serves fresh produce shipped from the south. Especially recommended is the antipasto Vinesio, which includes a hearty selection of grilled vegetables and burata, a melt-in-your-mouth fiordilatte (fresh milk cheese). Of the pasta dishes, try the Orecchiette alla Barese (pasta shells with a light meat sauce), topped with seasoned ricotta cheese. Plenty of vegetarian dishes are served. Fresh fish is served Friday and Saturday. Don't overlook the full-bodied rose wines—Puglia produces some of the best rosati in the country. Tuesday-Sunday 7:30-11 pm. Starting September 2000, lunch Tuesday-Sunday 12:30-2:30 pm. Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards. Borgo San Frediano 145/R, Florence. Phone 055-223-449.

MIDDLE EASTERN

Amon—If you want a quick but filling sandwich, this Egyptian takeout place is central (near Piazza Santa Maria Novella) and cheap. Tasty veal kebabs, felafel and hummus are served in pita bread with fresh salad. Monday-Saturday noon-3 pm and 6-11 pm. $. No credit cards. Via Palazzuolo 26-28/R, Florence. Phone 055-293-146.

VEGETARIAN

Il Vegetariano—Florence's first vegetarian restaurant has the classic, veggie restaurant feel: You could be in San Francisco or New York's Greenwich Village, circa 1970-something. Go to the counter and make your menu choices from the internationally inspired selections. The menu changes daily but always includes a vegan dish. Pasta, soup, couscous, quiches, salads, seitan, tofu. Also organic beer, wine and fruit juice and a disorienting number of herbal teas. Don't miss the desserts. Smoke-free room (a rarity for Italy) and summer dining in the garden. Tuesday-Friday 12:30-2:30 pm and 7:30-10:30 pm, Saturday and Sunday 7:30-10:30 pm. $$. No credit cards. Via delle Ruote 30/R, Florence. Phone 055-475-030.