One of Denmark's culinary specialties is "cold table" lunch: hot and cold fish dishes accompanied by ice-cold schnaps (aquavit), then meat-laden, open-faced sandwiches (smorrebrod) accompanied by beer and followed by all manner of cheeses and fruit. An ordinary Copenhagen dinner might feature meatballs, hamburger smothered in onions (hakkebof med log) or meat-and-potato hash with an egg (biksemad). Most dinners end with coffee or tea, sometimes complemented with pastries purveyed by konditori, which are combination bakery, confectioner's shop and tearoom.

Restaurant culture has expanded since the second half of the 1990s. out has become a usual treat for the average Dane. Several new and interesting restaurants seem to crop up each year, emphasizing either fine cuisine or a special atmosphere (and sometimes both).

Below is a sampling of restaurants in town. Expect to pay within these guidelines, based on the cost of a dinner for one, not including drinks, tax or tip: $ = less than 80 DKr; $$ = 80 DKr-120 DKr; $$$ = 121 DKr-180 DKr; $$$$ = 181 DKr-250 DKr; $$$$$ = more than 250 DKr.

FAVORITE RESTAURANTS

Den Gyldne Fortun—A distinguished restaurant whose fish and seafood specialties are highly respected. The Lemon Sole Walewska comes with lobster and truffles and is deboned at your table. Across from Christiansborg Palace. Daily 11:30 am-4 pm and 5:30-10 pm. Reservations recommended. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Ved Stranden 18, Copenhagen. Phone 3312-2011.

Divan II—The most highly regarded restaurant in Tivoli Gardens, Divan II offers impeccably prepared French and Danish cuisine in a flowered garden setting. Exceptional service. Open late April-early September, noon-3 pm and 6-10:30 pm daily. Reservations required. $$$$$. Most major credit cards. Vesterbrogade 3, Copenhagen. Phone 3312-5151.

Els—Hans Christian Andersen used to be a regular at this place. Delightful mix of Danish and French cuisine in a setting marked by original 18th-century frescoes. The devoted waitstaff treats everyone as regulars and is passionate about the food and wine. Daily 11 am-11 pm (but stays open until the last patrons leave). Closed in July. $$$$-$$$$$. Most major credit cards. Store Strandstraede 3, Copenhagen. Phone 3314-1341.

Kong Hans Kaeder—Superb Alsatian cuisine in a 14th-century wine cellar. Sophisticated decor and well-dressed patrons. It serves the finest nouvelle cuisine in the city. Monday-Saturday 6-10 pm. Closed in July. Reservations required. $$$$$. Most major credit cards. Vingaardstraede 6, Copenhagen. Phone 3311-6868.

Sankt Gertruds Kloster—Built in 1397 as a monastery, St. Gertrude's has evolved throughout its history. (It has also served, for instance, as a war hospital.) Cobbled hallways, narrow passages and candlelight throughout—very romantic. Ask for a tour of the impressive wine cellar when reserving your table. A signature dish in this medieval retreat is King Stag Steak. Daily 4 pm-2 am (kitchen operates 5:30-11:30 pm). $$$$. Most major credit cards. Hauser Plads 32, Copenhagen. Phone 3314-6630.

Schultz—This new favorite of the city's trendsetters sits within the charming Bolten's Gard Courtyard. Modern gourmet fusion fare. Tuesday-Thursday 6-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 6-11 pm (bar open to 2 am). Reservations recommended. $$$$$. No American Express. Store Kongensgade 15, Copenhagen. Phone 3316-1213.

Sticks 'n' Sushi—This restaurant initiated the sushi trend in Copenhagen. Funky setting in a culturally active area. The sushi and yakitori sticks are all prepared with great expertise. Daily 6-11 pm. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$. Visa and MasterCard accepted. Nansensgade 59, Copenhagen. Phone 3311-1407.

LOCAL AND REGIONAL SPECIALTIES

Husmann's Vinstue—One of Copenhagen's old, traditional lunch restaurants, located in the charming and colorful Latin quarters. The original 1888 setting has been kept intact. Smorrebrod and old-fashioned Danish cuisine. Monday-Saturday 11:30 am-4 pm. Reservations recommended. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Larsbjornstraede 2, Copenhagen. Phone 3311-5886.

Peder Oxe—A cozy retreat just off Stroget on Grey Friars Square (Grabrodretorv)—an old house with small rooms and a handsome fireplace in back. Good luncheon choice, because there's an excellent salad bar and famous Danish smorrebrod on the menu. The dinner menu urges you to choose between grass-fed or grain-fed beef, but their Danish lamb is splendid. Switch on the little green light when you're ready to order. Sunday-Wednesday 11:30 am-10:30 pm, Thursday-Saturday 11:30 am-11:30 pm (bar open to 1 am). Reservations recommended. $$$. No American Express. Grabrodre Torv 11, Copenhagen. Phone 3111-0077.

Thorvaldsen—Thorvaldsen was a prominent Danish sculptor whose works are housed in the museum across the canal from this restaurant. In summer, the outdoor terrace is an ideal spot from which to view the barges and boats plying the canals of the Old City. Monday-Saturday 11:30 am-10 pm (Friday to 11 pm). $$$. Most major credit cards. Gammel Strand 34, Copenhagen. Phone 3332-0400.

ASIAN

Mitsu—Still the best Japanese food in town, and at reasonable prices. Family-owned and run, it's a charming restaurant with a relaxed feel. The tempura and sushi are justifiably popular. Tuesday-Saturday 5-11 pm. $$. No credit cards. Jagtvej 101. Phone 3585-7997.

BREAKFAST AND BRUNCH

Europa—A stylish cafe on Amager Torv, with historic photographs on the walls and an outdoor eating area on Copenhagen's busiest corner. There's a large selection of international newspapers available, too. Daily 11 am-11:30 pm. $. No credit cards. Amagertorv 1. Phone 3314-2889.

La Glace—The source—despite its French name—for archetypal Danish pastries (which the Danes call Wienerbrod). La Glace is famous for layer cakes as well. This konditori has served breakfast and afternoon tea to grateful patrons since 1870. Monday-Friday 8 am-5:30 pm, Saturday 9 am-5 pm, Sunday 11 am-5 pm. $. No credit cards. Skoubogade 3. Phone 3314-4646.

FRENCH

Langelinie Pavillion—Splendid view of the sea and just steps away from the Little Mermaid. This restaurant was designed by legendary architect Vilhelm Lauritzen and filled with Danish-designer furniture—both reason enough to dine there. But the food is exceptional, too: French haute cuisine in the finest tradition. Daily noon-3 pm and 6-10 pm. The pavilion is open 10 am-11 pm. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Langelinie 1, Osterbro, Copenhagen. Phone 3312-1214.

Le Saint Jacques—Situated on a cozy little square off Osterbrogade, Saint Jacques offers fine French cuisine. Dine inside with huge candles lighting your table or on the square watching the sunset. Owner/chef Daniel Letz is renowned—try his homemade smoked salmon. Sunday-Wednesday 11 am-midnight, Thursday-Saturday 11 am-2 am (kitchen closes at 10 pm). Reservations required. $$-$$$. No American Express. Sankt Jakobs Plads 1. Phone 3542-7707.

ITALIAN (INCLUDING PIZZERIAS)

Quattro Fontane—The first Italian restaurant to open in Copenhagen, it serves good food for the money. Pasta with salmon and seafood entrees are popular choices. Every day there's a special menu with dishes from different regions of Italy. Daily 4 pm-1 am. $-$$. No credit cards. Guldbergsgade 3. Phone 3539-3931.

LATE NIGHT

Pasta Basta—This restaurant features pasta in endless variations, with late-night service and a big pasta-salad buffet. In the basement is a beach bar, complete with sand on the floor. Sunday-Wednesday 11:30 am-3 pm, Thursday-Saturday 11:30 am-5 am. $$. No credit cards, but U.S. dollars accepted. Valendorfsgade 22. Phone 3311-2131.

MIDDLE EASTERN

Riz Raz—A buffet with dazzling vegetarian, chicken, beef and lamb offerings. The falafel is famous, and their baklava-and-ice-cream dessert is delicious. Modern art adorns the white walls. This restaurant is down a staircase on a central street lined with antique shops and crafts stores. In summer you can dine in the charming backyard. Daily 11:30 am-midnight. $. Most major credit cards. Kompagnistraede 20. Phone 3315-0575.

VEGETARIAN

Atlas Bar—Popular, colorful and trendy restaurant with international cuisine and a wide selection of vegetarian dishes. Tasty and generous portions. Enjoy the atmosphere of the Latin quarters. Monday-Friday 11 am-11 pm, Saturday noon-11 pm. Reservations recommended. $$. No American Express. Larsbjornstraede 18. Phone 3315-0352.

ADDITIONAL EXPERIENCES

Alexander Nevsky—This restaurant in the Plaza Hotel serves Russian specialties. Choose from 20 different vodkas, an array of caviars and entrees that include shish kebab and beef Stroganoff. Monday-Saturday 11:30 am-3:30 pm and 4:30-10:30 pm. Reservations required. $$$-$$$$. Most major credit cards. Bernstorffsgade 4. Phone 3314-9262.

Basecamp—The biggest restaurant in Scandinavia has more than 600 seats. The former cannon factory was stylishly revamped: Steel cranes hover over the tables, and a sandy beach occupies the back of the place. The fusion cuisine is good, but there is no service: You order at the bar and pick up your food at the kitchen (or grill it on the beach yourself). The only problem is that, because it's so large, it can easily look empty. Sunday-Thursday 6 pm-1 am, Friday and Saturday 6 pm-5 am. $$. No American Express. Bygning 148, Holmen. Phone 7023-2318.

Konrad—Chic restaurant with a beautiful bar. It's the latest in place for the local jet set. Original menus, way-out design and clubby evenings with a deejay. Lunch Friday and Saturday noon-3 pm. Dinner Monday-Thursday 6-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 6-11 pm. Bar open Friday and Saturday to 3 am. Reservations required. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Pilestraede 12, Copenhagen. Phone 3393-2929.