Cairo's restaurant scene is looking better every year. In addition to the many Egyptian restaurants in all price ranges, this city is an excellent place to sample other Middle Eastern cuisines. Fresh fish, ordered by the pound from a display and cooked to order, is a local specialty. Cairo now boasts fine Italian, Swiss, French and Asian restaurants. Muslims do not eat pork, and few restaurants serve it. Alcohol is also forbidden to strict Muslims; however, most restaurants serve at least wine and beer. In most places listed, major credit cards (Visa, MasterCard and American Express) are accepted, but it's best to call first to make sure. Reservations are not necessary unless otherwise noted.

Below is a sampling of restaurants in town. Expect to pay within these general guidelines, based on the cost of a dinner for one and not including drinks, tax or tip: $ = less than £E 50; $$ = £E 50-£E 100; $$$ = more than £E 100.

FAVORITE RESTAURANTS

Blues—A sophisticated spot frequented by Cairo's nouveau riche. Good French-accented cuisine and an excellent bar. Live music. Open noon-3 am. $$. Al-Nil St. (Giza), Cairo. Phone 335-5552.

Ciro's Pizza Pomodoro of Knightsbridge—This is the place to see and be seen, if you're a wealthy, trendy young thing in Cairo. Bouncers at the door ensure a selective ambience. While the food is good, it's the live music and lively atmosphere that draw the crowds. Open daily noon-2:30 am. $$$. Most major credit cards. 11221 Corniche al-Nil (in Zamalek, across from the World Trade Center), Cairo. Phone 579-9678 or 579-6512.

El Gato Negro—This bar/restaurant went through several incarnations before settling on the current one: a sort of party scene. This is a hip, expat crowd in a small, hot space. Weekly events include salsa night, Russian night, deejay night and Mexican night. Food and drink specials correspond to the theme of the night. Thursday nights are a must for the preclub warm-up crowd. Lots of fun. $-$$. No credit cards. 32 Jeddah St. (Mohandiseen), Cairo. Phone 361-6888.

The Grill—Housed on the second floor of the Semiramis Hotel, the grill boasts stunning views of the Nile, along with exquisite service. Try such nouveau French specialties as shrimp wrapped in wontons and filet of beef in parmesan crust and black-olive sauce. Open nightly 7 pm-midnight. Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards. Semiramis Inter-Continental Hotel, Corniche al-Nil (Garden City), Cairo. Phone 355-7171.

Jounieh—Named after Beirut's hip suburb, this open-air restaurant and bar by the Nile has the best, most authentic Lebanese food in Cairo. Service is swift and subtle, the live Middle Eastern music is sublime. Start with a selection of Lebanese meze ranging from the traditional hummus to less traditional hendeba. If there's still room, choose a flavorful meat entree. End with watermelon topped with ice cream and Turkish coffee. Open noon-midnight. $$$. Most major credit cards. Corniche al-Nil, opposite the World Trade Center, Cairo. Phone 575-9709.

Justine's—Leather armchairs and artful service distinguish this as a sophisticated, cosmopolitan place. Chicken in a pineapple and pepper curry sauce, and beef in Bernaise sauce are two highlights. Save room for the warm apple tart. Open daily 1-3 pm and 8-11 pm. $$$. Most major credit cards. In the Four Corners at 4 Hassan Sabry St. (Zamalek), Cairo. Phone 341-2961.

Khan Khalili Restaurant/Naguib Mahfouz Cafe—The only good place to eat in the Khan al-Khalili bazaar, this restaurant and cafe is run by the Oberoi chain and named for the famous Nobel Prize-winning writer, who used to eat there almost every day. Service is impeccable, and the Middle Eastern food is excellent—the atmosphere a perfect complement to the delicately spiced food. For a snack or a light meal, try the Naguib Mahfouz Cafe in the front of the restaurant. Open daily noon-midnight. Reservations recommended for dinner. $$. Most major credit cards. 5 Sekket al-Badistan, Khan al-Khalili, Cairo. Phone 590-3788 or 593-2262.

Le Chateau—This upscale French restaurant is a favorite with business executives, possibly because of the hushed environment heavy on wood paneling and the attentive service. The menu leans toward red meat and seafood. Try the warm chunks of lobster, shrimp and scallops aux croustades in creamy dill sauce; finish with crepes suzettes flamed in Grand Marnier. Open noon-11:30 pm. Reservations recommended for dinner. Jacket required. $$$. Most major credit cards. Al-Nast building, al-Nil St. (Giza), Cairo. Phone 348-5321.

Les Trefles—Elegant dining in an intimate and cozy atmosphere, perfect for special celebrations and romantic evenings—the view of the Nile from there is very tranquil. French favorites abound: The duck a l'orange is superb, and pastries and desserts are heavenly. Open daily noon-3 am. $$$. Most major credit cards. Corniche al-Nil (opposite the World Trade Centre), Cairo. Phone 579-6511.

The Moghul Room—Not only the best Indian food in Cairo, but some of the best food, period. Located in the fabulous Mena House Oberoi Hotel across from the pyramids, this restaurant matches sublime food with peerless service. Portions are large. We recommend everything without question on the menu, but advise you definitely to leave room for the kulfi (Indian ice cream). Live Indian music is performed at a volume appropriate for dining and conversation. Open daily 12:30-2:45 pm and 7:30-11:45 pm. Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards. Mena House Oberoi Hotel, al-Haram Street, Cairo. Phone 383-3222.

LOCAL AND REGIONAL SPECIALTIES

Alfi Bey—This restaurant specializes in kebab and kofta dishes and has been in business for more than 60 years. Also on the menu are stuffed pigeon, lamb chops and grilled chicken. Basic Egyptian food at its best, served in a friendly atmosphere. $. No credit cards. 3 al-Alfi St. (downtown), Cairo. Phone 577-1888.

El-Omda—A popular (and packed) restaurant specializing in the local favorite, kosheri, a rice, lentil and pasta dish blended together and served with hot sauce on the side. Locals and visitors come from all over the city just for it. Upstairs is a vegetarian cafe with a pool table and coffee corner. Open 24 hours daily. $. No credit cards. 6 al-Gazar St. (Mohandiseen, near the Atlas Hotel), Cairo. Phone 345-2387.

Felfela—Part of a Cairo chain of restaurants specializing in down-to-earth Egyptian cuisine. Particularly good (and cheap) is fuul (bean dish) drizzled with oil or topped with an egg. This downtown branch is the one most convenient for visitors. Interior: pure kitsch. Guests range from the designer dressed to the galabiya-clad. Daily 7 am-12:30 am. $. No credit cards. 15 Hoda Shaarawy St. (downtown, near Talat Harb Square), Cairo. Phone 392-2833.

Ghash—For a taste of real Cairo, head for this fuul restaurant famous throughout the city for serving the best beans in town. Fuul comes with a variety of toppings, salads and bread. Guests sit outside at tables set up in the street. The place is open to 4 am and really gets going only after midnight, when (it seems) all of Cairo is hanging out in the street, eating fuul and chatting. Shisha (water pipe with tobacco) and soft drinks served, no alcohol. A little English is spoken. About five minutes from downtown by cab. No phone. $. Maraseena Street (Sayeda Zeinab), Cairo.

Samakmak—Fish lovers should try Samakmak, the Cairo branch of the famed Alexandrian restaurant. There's an intimate ambience and an excellent selection of fresh fish; you choose from a large counter dripping with ice. Try your selection grilled and slathered in Samakmak's famous spice blend. Fresh, delicious Middle Eastern salads, rice and pasta come with every meal. Open daily 10 am-5 am. $$. No credit cards. 92 Ahmed Orabi St. (Mohandiseen), Cairo. Phone 347-8232.

ASIAN

Chin Chin—That disco party ball and flocked wallpaper may be kitsch, but the food is serious at this upscale Chinese restaurant. The cuisine is drawn from several regions, with Sichuan probably the most heavily represented. Waiters are efficient and discrete, and the complimentary appetizers give edge to your appetite. Sweet and sour actually tastes sweet and sour—not gooey—and the deserts resemble modern art. Do be aware, though, that portions are tiny. 7:30-11:30 pm. $$. Most major credit cards. In the Four Corners, 4 Hassan Sabry St. (Zamalek), Cairo. Phone 341-2961.

Ha Na—If you like Korean food, try this authentic, no-frills restaurant. All meals begin with pa'anchan, small dishes of pickled cabbage, fried tofu, black beans and other vegetables. Move on to pulgogi, strips of beef cooked at your table. Excellent hot and cold soups. In the Nile Zamalek Hotel. Daily noon-10 pm. $. No credit cards. 21 Maahad al-Swissry St. (Zamalek), Cairo. Phone 341-9734.

Kandahar—The best-kept secret in town, this restaurant is tucked away on the first floor of a downtown building with a glass elevator on the outside. Owned and operated by the same Oberoi chain that runs the estimable Moghul Room in the Mena House Oberoi Hotel, but with a location perhaps more accessible to tourists. It provides the same richly flavored food, served by efficient staff in a peaceful, elegant atmosphere. The kandahari dal, paneer makhani and buttery naan are particularly delicious. Open daily noon-midnight. $$. Most major credit cards. 3 Gamaat al-Dowel, al-Arabia Street (Mohandiseen), phone 303-0615.

The Regent—Authentic Sichuan cuisine prepared by Chinese chefs. The hot and sour soup is as good as it gets and the entrees, especially the sweet and sour shrimp, are delicious. Elegant atmosphere, beautiful furnishings, excellent service. Open daily noon-midnight. $$. Most major credit cards. In the Ramses Hilton Hotel, 1115 Corniche al-Nil (downtown), phone 575-8000.

Sushiyama—As authentically Japanese as they come. Wonderfully fresh fish, perfectly prepared sushi. Try the jozushi, the chef's selection of seven different kinds of sushi, or the light and tender fish and vegetable teppanyaki. Open daily noon-3 pm and 6 pm-midnight. $$$. Most major credit cards. Ground Floor, World Trade Center, 1191 Corniche al-Nil, phone 578-5161.

DINNER CRUISES

Nile Maxim—Operated by the Marriott Hotel, this is one of the most elegant cruising restaurants on the Nile. Daily cruises 8-10 pm and 11 pm-1 am include a la carte menu choices with live entertainment. Lunch cruises are also available Friday-Sunday 2:30-4:30 pm. $$$. Most major credit cards. For reservations, call 340-8888, ext. 8340. The boat docks across from the Cairo Marriott Hotel.

Nile Pharaoh—This boat, operated by the Oberoi hotel chain, is one of the best dinner cruises in town. Fixed-price menus with your choice of five entrees plus salad and desert bars. Food is good, but the two "bars" are the best part. Very good entertainment, including a belly dancer and a folklore show. Pharaonic decor puts you in the mood. Dinner cruises daily at 8, 8:45 and 10 pm. Lunch cruises daily at 2:30 and 4:30 pm. $$. Most major credit cards. For reservations, call 570-1000. 31 al-Nil St. (Giza).

Scarabee—One of the oldest and most famous of the city's cruising restaurants. Buffet dining with an international flavor. Good selection of appetizers and entrees (grilled meats, chicken and fish) and excellent desserts. Middle Eastern cabaret with belly dancer. The deck is the place for sunset aperitifs and after-dinner digestifs. Daily cruises 2:30-4 pm, 7:30-9:30 pm and 10 pm-midnight. $$. Most major credit cards. For reservations, call 354-3198. The boat docks in front of the Shepheard Hotel on Corniche al-Nil (Garden City).

FRENCH

Le Champollion—A sleek, private dining room with a ground-floor Nile view and classic French cuisine, classically arrogant waiters. Excellent beef filet, creamy white bean soup with smoky slices of duck, and delicious jumbo shrimp with asparagus. Experienced, professional service. Open nightly 7:30-11:30 pm. $$$. Most major credit cards. Le Meridien Cairo Hotel, Corniche al-Nil (Garden City), phone 362-1717.

ITALIAN (INCLUDING PIZZERIAS)

Rossini—Upscale, relaxed Italian enhanced by a soothing peach color scheme and live piano music. There's an open-air pergola for outdoor seating on warm evenings. Recommended: the calamari and octopus salads, shrimp in garlic sauce, grouper with pesto, followed by tiramisu. Reservations are a good idea. Open daily 1 pm-1 am. $$$. Most major credit cards. 66 Omar ibn al-Khattab St., phone 291-8282.

Tia Maria—Small, cozy restaurant drawing fans from throughout Cairo. Excellent pasta, beef and seafood, full bar. Be aware that this place is somewhat difficult to find—just keep asking people on the street for directions. Open daily 1 pm-midnight. $$. Most major credit cards. 32 Jeddah St. (Mohandiseen), phone 335-3273.

Tuscany—This restaurant is popular with nearly everyone: The fabulous service, great food and convivial atmosphere are perfect for business dinners, romance or even a relaxed meal for one. The antipasto bar delivers varied starters, to be followed by creamy pastas and then (perhaps?) lamb with rosemary. Open 1-4 pm and 6:30 pm-midnight. Reservations recommended for dinner on weekends. $$. Most major credit cards. Cairo Marriott Hotel (Zamalek), phone 340-8888.