Belgian food is ranked among Europe's finest, with considerable regional variation among the provinces. Most of Brussels' best restaurants serve French-style cuisine because their chefs use the French techniques taught in hotel schools. (Even the French will admit that it's easy to find excellent French cuisine in Brussels.) Traditional Belgian foods include gaufres (the famous waffles that Belgians eat as an afternoon delicacy, not usually for breakfast), waterzooi (a chicken or fish dish with a cream-based sauce and finely sliced vegetables), as well as Ardennes ham, endive, mussels and frites (french fries). Wild game cooked with Belgian beer, such as gueuze (brewed only in Brussels), or red wine is an autumn treat. Other popular dishes include endive with cheese and ham, shrimp croquettes and spicy meatballs in tomato sauce.

When choosing a restaurant, do avoid some obvious tourist traps, such as those along the Rue des Bourchers and surrounding streets. The restaurants from that neighborhood we recommend—Aux Armes de Bruxelles, Vincent, La Roue d'Or, Spinnekopke and Chez Leon—are completely to be trusted. Be very careful of establishments with large displays of exotic-looking fish on the sidewalk. If you should be tempted to try one, make sure you're told exactly how much the meal will cost before you place your order. These restaurants—unfortunately in a very attractive area not far from the Grand-Place—have a citywide reputation for fleecing tourists! And watch out for astronomicallly priced house wine.

Cafes all around Brussels serve sandwiches, salads and omelettes usually for less than 400 BF. Along the Petite Rue de Bouchers and the March aux Fromages you'll find inexpensive Greek, Vietnamese and pizza restaurants.

Strict vegetarians should check menu items with waitstaff before ordering. Many Belgians are of the view that vegetarianism is an aberration, and that not much meat is equal to no meat.

Below is a sampling of restaurants in town. Expect to pay within these general guidelines, based on the cost of a dinner for one, excluding drinks: $ = less than 600 BF; $$ = 600 BF-1,000 BF; $$$ = 1,001 BF-2,000 BF; and $$$$ = more than 2,000 BF. In Belgian restaurants, tax and service charges are included in the bill.

FAVORITE RESTAURANTS

Amadeus—This intimate and atmospheric wine bar and restaurant is located near Avenue Louise (in the former studio of sculptor Auguste Rodin). The informal brasserie fare is not as elaborate as the Gothic-style decor. Their Sunday brunch is popular with all-night partiers and families with small children. Monday 6 pm-2 am, Tuesday-Friday noon-3 pm and 6 pm-2 am, Saturday 6 pm-2 am, Sunday 10 am-2 pm. Reservations required. $-$$. Most major credit cards. Rue Veydt 13, Brussels. Phone 538-3427.

Bonsoir Clara—One of the places to see and be seen on the fashionable Rue Antoine Dansaert, Bonsoir Clara has an adventurous wine list, background jazz and salsa, and trendy decor that features a patchwork colored wall. The French-inspired food includes stuffed lamb and caramelized duck. Monday-Friday noon-2:30 pm and 7-11:30 pm, Saturday and Sunday 7-11:30 pm. Reservations required. $$$. Most major credit cards. Rue Antoine Dansaert 22, Brussels. Phone 502-0990.

Claude Dupont—Classical chef Dupont, one of Brussels' rising culinary stars, opened this calm, elegant restaurant in Ganshoren, northern Brussels, and it's well worth the detour. French-cuisine specialties include roasted veal kidney with mustard and tarragon sauce, grilled turbot and foie gras. The restaurant is closed the beginning of July to the beginning of August. Wednesday-Sunday noon-2 pm and 7-10 pm. $$$-$$$$. Most major credit cards. Ave. Vital Riethuisen 46, Brussels. Phone 426-0000.

Comme Chez Soi—Don't be put off by its location in a somewhat scruffy square: Everybody who's anybody has tasted top chef Pierre Wyinants' imaginative French-cuisine masterpieces in these art-nouveau surroundings. The sole mousseline with Riesling is an all-time classic. We suggest you take your aperitif in the wine cellar and eat in the small dining room: Glass separates the dining room from the kitchen, so you can see your food being prepared. Tuesday-Saturday noon-2 pm and 7-10 pm. Reservations required. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Place Rouppe 23, Brussels. Phone 512-2921.

Du bruit dans la cuisine—Refreshingly different, this excellent restaurant serves Pacific Rim and "Mediterrasian" dishes. Its Australian chefs concoct healthy, imaginative and beautifully presented dishes such as seared tuna steak with beetroot tapenade and warm chicken salad with mesclun and preserved limes. The decor is minimalist but cozy. Daily 11 am-3 pm and 7-11 pm. Reservations recommended. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Chaussee de Waterloo 593, Brussels. Phone 345-5045.

L'Ecailler du Palais Royal—This is one of the best fish and seafood restaurants in town. Virtually all the other fish restaurants are in and around the Place Ste. Catherine, but this one—in a quaint old bottle-glass-windowed building—faces the church in elegant Sablon Square. Oysters freshly arrived from Zeeland or Colchester, turbot and lobster are highlights on the menu. Monday-Saturday noon-2:30 pm and 7-10:30 pm. Reservations required. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Rue Bodenbroeck 18, Brussels. Phone 512-8751.

La Maison du Cygne—Probably more business meals have been consumed at La Maison du Cygne than in any other Brussels restaurant. Its location—in one of the old guild houses in the center of the Grand-Place—and the elegance of the dining room are equalled only by the French haute cuisine served. Pheasant with braised endives and chevreuil (roebuck) with apples are menu stand-outs. Monday-Friday noon-2:15 pm and 7-10:15 pm, Saturday 7-10:15 pm. $$$-$$$$. Most major credit cards. Grand-Place 9 (entrance at Rue Charles Buls 2), Brussels. Phone 511-8244.

La Quincaillerie—Located in a converted hardware store, this attractive eatery south of the city center serves imaginative brasserie food: duck with honey and lime, scallop carpaccio. There's also an oyster bar downstairs. Trendy, upwardly mobile clientele. Lunch Monday-Friday noon-2:30 pm. Dinner Sunday-Friday 7 pm-midnight. Reservations required. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Rue du Page 45, Brussels. Phone 538-2553.

La Truffe Noire—Translated, the name of this restaurant, which serves classic Italian and modern French cuisine, is The Black Truffle, and truffles figure significantly in the dishes (or as a garnish). Slightly off the beaten track, on the edge of a residential area, it's in a typical Brussels town house. Monday-Friday noon-2:30 pm and 7-10:30 pm, Saturday 7-10:30 pm. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$. Most major credit cards. Blvd. de la Cambre 12, Brussels. Phone 640-4422.

Salons de l'Atalaide—The decor at this place is a heady mix of baroque gothic meets Jules Verne. While the setting probably outclasses the food, it's worth a visit. The cuisine is Continental, and the staff is young and trendy. It's a restaurant where you'll want to savor the atmosphere. Daily noon-3 pm and 7-11 pm. Reservations required. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Chaussee de Charleroi 89, Brussels. Phone 537-2154.

Terra del Fuego—Close to Place Stephanie, this is a place to visit for outside summer fun. Cross the drawbridge to the restaurant and you'll find a miniature versions of Gaudi's Guell Park, complete with mosaic-covered banquettes. The food is primarily Cuban and Chilean; some Castilian fare is also on the menu. Lunch Monday-Friday noon-2:30 pm. Dinner nightly 7-11 pm (Friday till 1 am). Reservations recommended. $$. Most major credit cards. Rue Berckmans 14, Brussels. Phone 537-4272.

LOCAL AND REGIONAL SPECIALTIES

Auberge des Chapeliers—A three-storied, yet still tiny, restaurant just off the Grand-Place, it serves classic Belgian-French cuisine. Unusual dishes include horse steak. Monday-Thursday noon-2:30 pm and 6-11 pm, Friday-Sunday open 24 hours. $$. Most major credit cards. Rue des Chapeliers 1-3, Brussels. Phone 513-7338.

Aux Armes de Bruxelles—A favorite Bruxellois hangout, this place serves Belgian dishes such as waterzooi, white asparagus Flemish style and mussels (in season). Once the favorite haunt of singer Jacques Brel, it's in the heart of the Ilot Sacre restaurant area. Tuesday-Sunday noon-11:15 pm. Reservations recommended. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Rue des Bouchers 13, Brussels. Phone 511-5598.

Chez Leon—This casual, loud place, which opened more than a century ago, is packed tight with locals and tourists all eager for bottomless pots of steamed mussels and frites. It's also famed for seafood waterzooi and eels. Even when they're slightly out of season (i.e., during months not ending in R), this is a safe place to eat mussels (they're shipped daily from the Netherlands). Daily noon-11 pm. $-$$. Most major credit cards. Rue des Bouchers 18, Brussels. Phone 511-1415.

La Grande Porte—This is a very old, popular, unpretentious restaurant with elbow-to-elbow atmosphere—great for late-night eating. Hearty Belgian regional cuisine includes a steaming onion soup to cut the cold in winter, chicory baked with cheese and ham, and stoemp (mashed potato often flavored with vegetables, typically served with sausages). Background music is French chanson, decor is odds-and-ends from the nearby flea market. Lunch Monday-Friday noon-3 pm, dinner Monday-Saturday 6 pm-2 am. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Rue Notre Seigneur 9, Brussels. Phone 512-8998.

La Roue d'Or—Magritte-inspired murals decorate the walls of this lively, atmospheric art-nouveau eatery. Traditional Belgian and French cuisine is served, including pig's trotter vinaigrette, eel in mustard sauce, snails in garlic sauce and home-made frittes. It's located a stone's throw from the Grand-Place. Daily noon-12:30 am. Closed 15 July-15 August. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Rue des Chapeliers 26, Brussels. Phone 514-2554.

Spinnekopke—Don't be put off by the slightly rundown square where this monument of Brussels cuisine is hidden. Formerly an 18th-century inn, this is the place for rabbit cooked in gueuze beer, coquilles Saint-Jacques with Roquefort sauce and other hearty specialties. Monday-Saturday noon-3 pm and 6-11 pm. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Place du Jardin 1, Brussels. Phone 511-8695.

Taverne Restaurant Plattesteen—This just shows you how prices drop when you leave the Grand-Place area. An informal restaurant and cafe, the Taverne serves up traditional Belgian cuisine. The outdoor eating area is filled mostly with locals drinking beer. Typical dishes: tomatoes stuffed with shrimp and smoked filet of trout. Monday-Saturday noon-2:30 pm and 6-9:30 pm. $-$$. Cash only. Rue Marche au Charbon 41, Brussels. Phone 512-8203.

Vincent—This traditional Belgian restaurant in the heart of the Ilot Sacre is worth a visit—although you may be disappointed by the predominance of American, English and Irish diners. In the dining room, many of the seats are made out of the upturned hulls of ships. On the walls, set in the original tiles, you can read the first menu and the prices of that day. Daily noon-2:45 pm and 6:30-11:30 pm (Sunday till 10:30 pm). No reservations. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Rue des Dominicains 8-10, Brussels. Phone 511-2303.

ASIAN

Les Perles de Pluie—Close to fashionable Place Chatelain and Avenue Louise, this Thai restaurant is popular with residents and visitors alike. The lunch buffet is an excellent value, and particularly good if you're pressed for time. Monday-Friday noon-3 pm and 7-11 pm, Saturday 7-11 pm. Open Sunday for brunch. Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards. Rue du Chatelain 25, Brussels. Phone 649-6723.

Yen—There is a growing number of Vietnamese restaurants in Brussels, and this is one of the best. It's located off the tourist track, between Avenue Louise and Place Flagey. The modern decor has won architectural prizes. Nice atmosphere, courteous service. Monday-Saturday noon-2:30 pm and 7-11 pm. Reservations recommended. $$. Most major credit cards. Rue de Lesbroussart 49, Brussels. Phone 649-0747.

BREAKFAST AND BRUNCH

Au Gateau de Bruxelles—This tearoom, near the Galeries St. Hubert, offers breakfast beginning at 7 am. $. Most major credit cards. Rue du Marche aux Herbes 113, Brussels. Phone 514-0171.

Manneken—Just off the Grand-Place, this place serves eggs, waffles and other standard fare starting at 8 am daily. $. Most major credit cards. Rue au Beurre 42-44, Brussels. Phone 511-2612.

FRENCH

Le Garde-Manger—You can eat outside on fine days at this small restaurant and bar opposite Tenbosch Park. The decor is imaginitive, and the staff is welcoming and friendly. It's a local restaurant that's not too local. French-inspired cuisine is on the menu. They cater to vegetarians. Monday-Friday 11 am-3 pm and 6 pm-midnight, Saturday 6 pm-midnight. $-$$. Most major credit cards. Rue Washington 151, Brussels. Phone 346-6829.

SEAFOOD

Bij den Boer—One of the best-value restaurants on the fish market, this authentic, unpretentious cafe-cum-restaurant serves delicious fish dishes. Try the monkfish with oyster mushrooms and the bouillabaisse. At 795 BF, the four-course fixed menu is hard to beat. Monday-Saturday noon-3 pm and 6-11 pm. $$. Most major credit cards. Quai aux Briques 60, Brussels. Phone 511-6122.

La Truite d'Argent—Located on the site of the old fish market, this restaurant naturally specializes in seafood, especially lobsters. Locals mostly go to dine inside, but there's slightly more casual dining on the terrace during summer. Lunch Monday-Friday noon-2:30 pm, dinner Monday-Saturday 7-11:30 pm. $$$. Most major credit cards. Quai au Bois a Bruler 23, Brussels. Phone 219-9546.

STEAK HOUSES

Au Stekerlapatte—The name means "steak on the hoof." This is a popular, late-night bistro in an area (off the Boulevard du Waterloo) where you'd not normally go for a stroll. You'll find elbow-to-elbow seating and plenty of good-natured ambience. Besides steak, expect some Belgian staples on the menu. Tuesday-Sunday 7 pm-1 am. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Rue des Pretres 4, Brussels. Phone 512-8681.