Berlin is a city on the go, and its culinary offerings once seemed geared more to time than taste. Fortunately, the scene has changed dramatically since the opening of the Wall. Good restaurants are sprouting up all the time, particularly in the districts of Mitte and Prenzlauer Berg.

Old-style German cooking is good but heavy, usually centered around roasted meat (braten) with potatoes and a vegetable on the side. Nouvelle German cuisine serves up smaller portions of more delicately prepared dishes. Vegetarian and healthy dishes also appear on menus with greater frequency. And with a large foreign-born population, Berlin also has a wide range of dining options. In summer, many restaurants set up tables outside on sidewalks or in gardens. There are also several moored canal boats and barges where you can dine or enjoy a drink alfresco. In most cases, it's customary to seat yourself in a restaurant—you don't have to wait to be seated.

Below is a sampling of restaurants in town. Expect to pay within these general guidelines, based on the cost of dinner for one, not including drinks or tip: $ = less than 15 DM; $$ = 15 DM-30 DM; $$$ = 31 DM-75 DM; and $$$$ = more than 75 DM. Many smaller restaurants do not accept credit cards.

FAVORITE RESTAURANTS

Altes Zollhaus—An intimate restaurant in a cozy, half-timbered building, originally a customshouse. Refined German cuisine and superb wines from the restaurant's cellar. Tuesday-Saturday 6 pm-1 am. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Carl Herz Ufer 30 (Kreuzberg), Berlin. Phone 692-3300.

Bamberger Reiter—Excellent traditional German and Austrian dishes. Tuesday-Saturday 6 pm-1 am. Reservations recommended. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Regensburgerstrasse 7 (Schoneberg), Berlin. Phone 218-4282.

Borchardt—Continental cuisine in Parisian ambience. The lamb chops are unforgettable, and most fish dishes are also excellent. Daily noon-midnight. Reservations recommended. $$$. American Express and Visa accepted. Franzosische Strasse 47 (Mitte), Berlin. Phone 2038-7110.

Ganymed—An elegant restaurant, good before or after a performance at the nearby Berliner Ensemble theater. Monday-Friday noon-3 pm and 5 pm-1 am, Saturday noon-1 am, Sunday 10 am-1 am. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Schiffbauerdamm 5 (Mitte). Phone 2859-9046.

Kaiserstuben—German and Continental gourmet specialties are served in this sumptuous restaurant across from Museumsinsel. Tuesday-Saturday 6 pm-midnight, Sunday 10 am-6 pm. Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards. Am Kupfergraben 6a (Mitte), Berlin. Phone 2045-2980.

Schwarzenraben—A star hangout for Continental cuisine. Gentle lighting makes the large, long hall seem cozy. Downstairs there's a whiskey and cigar bar. Open daily from 10 am as a cafe. Dinner is served daily 6:30 pm-midnight. Reservations are a must on weekends. $$. Most major credit cards. Neue Schonhauser Strasse 13 (Mitte), Berlin. Phone 2839-16986.

VAU—International food critics have lavished praise on this restaurant, but locals seem a bit more reserved. (Maybe it's just that the wait is longer.) Delicate, international dishes are served in a warm, modern setting. Fish entrees, such as freshwater char on paprika goulash, are particularly good. Extensive wine selection. The kitchen is open Monday-Saturday noon-2:30 pm and 7-10:30 pm (guests are welcome to stay longer). $$$$. Most major credit cards. Jagerstrasse 54-55 (Mitte), Berlin. Phone 202-9730.

XII Apostoli—With the frescoed walls and candlelight, you'll feel like you're sitting in a chapel. When the food arrives, your mind will switch to near-sinful pleasures. Pizzas are the house specialty, and they come with an imaginative mix of toppings, baked in a wood-burning oven. Popular with a late-night, post-club crowd. Open 24 hours a day. Breakfast from 5 am, warm dishes noon-5 am. $$. No credit cards. Bleibtreustrasse 69 (Charlottenburg), Berlin. Phone 312-1433.

LOCAL AND REGIONAL SPECIALTIES

Gugelhof—Very good Alsatian food, nicely presented. Try the onion tart as an appetizer or the tarte flambe as a dessert. Large wood tables make it perfect for groups or for meeting the locals. Breakfast is unbeatable. Daily 10 am-midnight. $-$$. Most major credit cards. Knaackstrasse 37 (Prenzlauer Berg), Berlin. Phone 442-9229.

Henne—Owned and operated by the same family since the 1930s, this no-frills restaurant still has some Old Berlin charm. The ornate bar with art-deco tiles is especially beautiful. As the name implies, there's only one dish: chicken, but not your bucket bird variety. It's crispy, juicy and straight off the rotisserie, served with potato salad or coleslaw. Check out the picture of JFK on the wall—he ate there in 1963. Wednesday-Sunday opens at 7 pm and has an open-ended closing time. $. No credit cards. Leuschnerdamm 25 (Kreuzberg), Berlin. Phone 614-7730.

Kellerrestaurant im Brecht-Haus Berlin—The specialty of this cozy cellar restaurant (in the house where Bertolt Brecht once lived) is perfectly prepared Bohemian and Viennese dishes. Superb wine selection. Monday-Friday noon-midnight, Saturday and Sunday 6 pm-midnight. Reservations recommended. $$. Most major credit cards, but not Visa. Chausseestrasse 125 (Mitte), Berlin. Phone 282-3843.

Offenbach Stuben—A very popular restaurant in eastern Berlin (even before the Wall came down). Delicious German and French food lovingly prepared by the owner, who has decorated his homey establishment with style and humor using theater props from the Komische Oper and Metropol Theater. It opens daily at 6 pm and has an open-ended closing time (kitchen closes at 11 pm). Reservations recommended. $$. Most major credit cards. Stubbenkammerstrasse 8 (Prenzlauer Berg), Berlin. Phone 445-8502.

ASIAN

Amrit—This Indian restaurant packs in the crowds with huge portions at very reasonable prices. Sunday-Thursday noon-1 am (kitchen closes at midnight), Friday and Saturday noon-2 am (kitchen closes at 1 am). $$. Oranienstrasse 200 (Kreuzberg). Phone 612-5550.

Good Friend—Cantonese restaurant popular in the Chinese community. Resembles a canteen in style, but the food is excellent and the waiters are very attentive. Daily noon-2 am. $$. Most major credit cards. Kantstrasse 30 (Charlottenburg). Phone 313-2659.

Kuchi—Japanese gourmet temple that's very popular among celebrities and those who like to dine near them. Apart from sushi and sashimi, the menu features such inspiring specials as virgin monk (vegetarian ingredients) and lost monk (vegetables and meats). Monday-Thursday noon-midnight, Friday-Sunday from 12:30 pm, with an open-ended closing time. Reservations recommended at least two days in advance. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Kantstrasse 30 (Charlottenburg), Berlin. Phone 3150-7815.

Mao Thai—Wonderful food served by a team of Thai cooks. Beautiful decorations brought over from Thailand. Friendly service. Daily noon-midnight. $$. Most major credit cards. Wortherstrasse 30 (Prenzlauer Berg). Phone 441-9261.

Sachiko Sushi—A tastefully designed sushi bar in one of the renovated railway arches near Savignyplatz. Sushi dishes float by on small boats, and diners pluck the ones that interest them. The cook behind the bar also prepares a la carte items. Monday-Sunday noon-midnight. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Savignypassage, in S-Bahnbogen 584 (Charlottenburg). Phone 313-2282.

Shima—Pan-Asian cuisine in a casual, friendly atmosphere. Complete with a cocktail lounge for pre-dinner drinks. Open daily 6 pm-midnight or later. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Schwabische Strasse 5 (Schoneberg). Phone 211-1990.

CAFES AND TEA ROOMS

In Berlin, cafes are very popular because they fill so many needs. Many of them serve breakfast from early morning to midafternoon, light bistro fare from noon to early evening and drinks well into the night. Most important, they dish out kaffee und kuchen (coffee and cake), an afternoon ritual not to be missed. Apart from food, cafes are also good places to socialize or just relax while reading a newspaper or magazine.

Barcomi's—This deli-style cafe, in a beautiful courtyard, serves excellent coffees and a tasty selection of cakes, bagels, cookies and muffins. Monday-Saturday 9 am-10 pm, Sunday 10 am-10 pm. $. No credit cards. Sophienstrasse 21, in the second courtyard (Mitte). Phone 2859-8363.

Barist—In an arch underneath the railway tracks at S-Bahn station Hackescher Markt. A good spot for a cup of coffee, a snack or a whole meal. In the warmer months, tables are set up outside. Open daily at 10 am with an open-ended closing time. $-$$. Most major credit cards. S-Bahn-Bogen Hackescher Markt (Mitte). Phone 2472-2613.

Cafe am Neuen See—A popular spot overflowing with guests during the warmer months. Located next to the lake in Tiergarten called Neuer See. Good for coffee and cake, complete meals or just a beer. Daily 10 am-11 pm in summer, 10 or 11 am-8 pm in spring and fall, and Sunday only 10 am-8 pm in winter. $-$$. Most major credit cards. Lichtensteinallee 2 (Tiergarten). Phone 254-4930.

Cafe am Ufer—Popular meeting spot for Sunday breakfast, but also nice any time, any day (especially Tuesday and Friday when the nearby Turkish market takes place). In the warmer months, tables are placed outside on a large terrace overlooking a canal. Breakfast is served throughout the day, meals till 11 pm. Opens Monday-Friday at 8 am, Saturday and Sunday at 10 am. Closing times are open ended. $-$$. Most major credit cards. Paul Lincke Ufer 42-43 (Kreuzberg). Phone 612-2827.

Cafe Einstein—Housed in an old villa, this is a very popular cafe in the Viennese coffeehouse mold. Breakfast is served till the afternoon, and the apfelstrudel with warm vanilla sauce is a treat any time of the day. Daily 10 am-2 am. $$. Most major credit cards. Kurfurstenstrasse 58 (Schoneberg), phone 261-5096. There's also a second location in Mitte at Unter den Linden 42. Daily 8 am-1 am. Phone 204-3632.

Cafe im Literaturhaus Wintergarten—A beautiful villa and garden oasis on a Ku'damm side street. Sit outside if the weather is good. Light meals and delicious cakes. Open daily 9:30 am-1 am (breakfast served till 2 pm; the kitchen closes at midnight). $-$$. No credit cards. Fasanenstrasse 23 (Charlottenburg). Phone 882-5414.

Cafe Savigny—Quiet cafe during the day, popular hangout for the local scene at night. Breakfast, sandwiches and cake. In summer, tables and chairs set out on the sidewalk are claimed quickly. Daily 9 am-1 am. $. No credit cards. Grolmanstrasse 53-54 (Charlottenburg). Phone 312-8195.

Opernpalais Unter den Linden—An elegant, classic cafe next to the Staatsoper. Huge selection of cakes, as well as light meals. Daily 9 am-1 am. $-$$. Most major credit cards. Unter den Linden 5 (Mitte). Phone 202-683.

FRENCH

Paris Bar—French bistro favored by Berlin intellectuals and artists. Daily noon-2 am or later. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Kantstrasse 152 (Charlottenburg). Phone 313-8052.

GREEK

Z—A cozy neighborhood restaurant that serves hearty Greek dishes and a complimentary ouzo after the meal. Daily 5 pm-1 am. $$. Most major credit cards. Friesenstrasse 12 (Kreuzberg). Phone 692-2716.

ITALIAN (INCLUDING PIZZERIAS)

Don Camillo—One of the best Italian restaurants in town, near Charlottenburg Palace. The waiters give detailed accounts of where ingredients come from—entertaining soliloquies that rival the magnificent food. Monday-Saturday 6-11 pm. $$. No credit cards. Schloss Strasse 7 (Charlottenburg). Phone 322-3572.

Trattoria a Muntagnola—Down-to-earth and richly varied Southern Italian specialties are served up in this bright, airy restaurant. Short but well-chosen wine list and unbelievably good bread. Daily 6 pm-midnight. $$. Most major credit cards. Fuggerstrasse 27 (Schoneberg). Phone 211-6642.

Trattoria Lappeggi—The Italian dishes compete for attention with the lively neighborhood. It can get quite crowded in the late evening. In summer, you can sit outside and people watch. Daily 11 am-1 or 2 am (kitchen closes at midnight). $$. Most major credit cards. Kollwitzstrasse 56 (Prenzlauer Berg), Berlin. Phone 442-6347.

Trattoria Paparazzi—Friendly service and fresh ingredients make this a standout in eastern Berlin. Don't miss the house specialty, malfatti—delicious spinach-and-ricotta rolls served with crispy fried sage leaves. Save room for dessert. Opens daily at 6 pm. The kitchen closes at 11:30 pm. $-$$. No credit cards. Husemannstrasse 35 (Prenzlauer Berg). Phone 440-7333.

MEXICAN

Las Cucarachas—Sizzling fajitas, gourmet tacos and generous portions of everything make this Mexican restaurant a local favorite. Close to Museumsinsel and in the middle of the gallery district around Oranienburger Strasse. Daily noon-3 am (kitchen closes around 1 am). $-$$. Most major credit cards. Oranienburger Strasse 38 (Mitte). Phone 282-2044.

SPANISH

Yosoy—Draws a lively crowd for its Spanish tapas and larger-portioned raciones. Nice interior. Daily 11 am-2 am (kitchen closes at midnight). $$. Most major credit cards. Rosenthaler Strasse 37 (Mitte), Berlin. Phone 2839-1213.

VEGETARIAN

Abendmahl—A long-time favorite for its imaginative vegetarian and fish concoctions (and their sometimes irreverent titles). The name Abendmahl means "Last Supper," so be prepared for the religious-kitsch atmosphere. Daily 6 pm-1 am (kitchen closes at 11:30 pm). Reservations recommended. $$-$$$. No credit cards. Muskauer Strasse 9 (Kreuzberg). Phone 612-5170.

Hakuin—Excellent international vegetarian food, with an Asian accent. Run by Buddhists, it is a quiet, meditative place. Tuesday-Saturday 5-11:30 pm, Sunday noon-11:30 pm. $$$. Most major credit cards. Martin Luther Strasse 1 (Schoneberg), phone 218-2027.

Oren—Popular vegetarian restaurant that also serves fish. Monday-Friday noon-1 am, Saturday 10 am-2 am, Sunday 10 am-1 am. $$. Most major credit cards. Oranienburger Strasse 28 (Mitte). Phone 282-8228.

ADDITIONAL EXPERIENCES

Jolesch—A lively Kreuzberg neighborhood restaurant serving consistently good Austrian food—with a lighter touch. Vegetarian dishes and daily lunch specials. Daily 10 am-1 am. $$. No credit cards. Muskauer Strasse 1 (Kreuzberg). Phone 612-3581.

Kafer Dachgartenrestaurant—It's the view! The food is pretty good, too. Daily 9 am-4:30 pm and 6:30 pm-midnight. Reservations recommended. $$. Most major credit cards. On top of the Reichstag. Access is via the west entrance or, for guests with reservations, via the entrance for wheelchairs just beneath the outside stairs. Phone 2262-9933.

Pasternak—Salonlike restaurant that attracts a mixed crowd to dine on Russian cuisine. Daily 10 am-2 am. $$. Most major credit cards. Knaackstrasse 22 (Prenzlauer Berg). Phone 441-3399.

Skales—A funky, hip Greek restaurant, popular with the young local film crowd. Opens daily at 5 pm, with an open-ended closing time (kitchen closes weeknights at 1 am, Friday and Saturday at 2 am). $$. Most major credit cards. Rosenthaler Strasse 38 (Mitte). Phone 283-3006.

Terra Anatolia—Superb Turkish cooking amidst snazzy decor. Traditional meals, such as grilled trout with mushroooms, tomatoes, paprika, garlic and lemon juice. Desserts are good, too. Monday-Thursday noon-midnight, Friday-Sunday noon-2 am. $$. Visa accepted. Hauptstrasse 65 (Schoneberg). Phone 859-4801.