Aside from those countless ramshackle food stalls selling spicy treats around the clock, Bangkok is full of restaurants offering the best cuisine from every region on the map. You're apt to find restaurants offering Indonesian rijsttaffel, Indian malai kofta, Hungarian goulash, Mexican flan and even Wiener schnitzel served in a biergarten.

Diversity aside, however, you'll be missing out if you don't taste the local specialties. Most people agree that eating Thai food is one of the more sensual dining experiences. Be sure to try the sweet gaeng kiew wan (green curry) or tom yam kung (a sour and spicy soup with prawns). For those with mild palates, beware of anything described by the term preek (it'll be fiery hot). Generally, any Thai food is going to seem hot by Western standards, so be sure to tell the chef you want it mai pet if you prefer a gentler experience.

Below is a sampling of restaurants in town. Expect to pay within these general guidelines, based on the cost of a dinner for one and not including drinks, tax or tip: $ = less than 250 baht; $$ = 250 baht-500 baht; $$$ = 501 baht-1,250 baht; and $$$$ = more than 1,250 baht.

FAVORITE RESTAURANTS

Baan Khanitha—Baan Khanitha is a quaint, old house with gardens in a quiet location. It specializes in royal (refined) Thai cuisine and regional dishes, including green curry with coconut tips. Daily 11:30 am-2 pm and 6:30-11 pm. Reservations recommended for Saturday and Sunday dinner. $$$. Most major credit cards. 36/1 Sukhumvit Rd. (on the east side), Bangkok. Phone 258-4181.

Cafe Siam—Located among the back sois behind Sathorn Road, this outstanding Thai-French restaurant should be considered a must. Set in a '20s Thai house, it's a combination of antique and art deco, with a stunning colonial-style bar upstairs. And all the furniture is for sale. Call to have a map faxed to your hotel. Daily 6 pm-2 am. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$. Most major credit cards. 4 Soi Sriaksorn, Bangkok. Phone 671-0031.

Harmonique—This is like dining in someone's antique-strewn home. It's very popular for excellent Thai cuisine, eaten indoors or in the courtyard. Sample some of the "dishes from the past" and the homemade ice cream. Daily 10 am-10 pm. Reservations advised. $$. Most major credit cards. 22 Charoen Krung Rd., Soi 39 (near the General Post Office), Bangkok. Phone 237-8175.

Sala Rim Naam—This is probably the best Thai restaurant in the whole country. Owned by the Oriental, this exquisitely furnished traditional Thai pavilion sits across the river from it. Diners arrive by private boat. The dinner show starts at 8:30 pm and features traditional dance and theater. Daily 1-2 pm and 7-11 pm. Reservations suggested. $$$$. Most major credit cards. 48 Oriental Ave., Bangkok. Phone 236-0400.

LOCAL AND REGIONAL SPECIALTIES

Apostrophe's—This is one of a half-dozen cafes and restaurants that line a trendy strip of Phra Arthit Road. Funky but small, the restaurant serves good Thai food so cheap that it's almost free. It's a comfortable spot to wind down after seeing the Grand Palace. Monday-Saturday 11 am-2 pm and 5 pm-1 am. $. No credit cards. 92 Phra Arthit Rd., Bangkok. Phone 282-7040.

Baan Thai—This is a great place for the first-time visitor. Beautiful gardens outside the Thai-style house include a pond with monster catfish and carp. Inside, tables are sunk into the floor, the floor becomes your seat, and your feet drop into a comfortable space underneath. A Thai menu is served piping hot, and there's a floor show of Thai music and dancing on two stages. Beautiful traditional costumes illuminate these traditional, dramatic pieces. Show begins at 9 pm. Daily 7:30-10 pm. Make reservations to get the best seats. $$. Most major credit cards. Soi 32 (next to the Rex Hotel on Sukhumvit), Bangkok. Phone 258-5403.

Lemon Grass—A tucked-away oasis amid the hustle and bustle of Sukhumvit Road, Lemon Grass offers Thai and Vietnamese cuisine. Even though it's slightly pricey for its slightly small portions, the atmosphere and attentive service make it worth a trek across town. Daily 11 am-2 pm and 6-11 pm. $$. Most major credit cards. 5/1 Sukhumvit Soi 24, Bangkok. Phone 258-8637.

Vientiane Kitchen—This authentic Issan (northeastern) restaurant has a friendly atmosphere with live, traditional music (often played by a talented group of 10-year-olds). The food can be very spicy, but dont shy away from trying some of the exotic menu items. Daily 11 am-2 pm and 5-11 pm. $$, Visa and MasterCard. Sukhumvit Soi 36, phone 258-6096.

Whole Earth—The menu is terrific Thai vegetarian fare with an Indian influence. There are a few meat and seafood entrees as well. You can sit on floor cushions as in the old days, but it's not required. A much larger and more secluded branch is at 71 Sukhumvit Soi 26. Daily 11:30 am-2 pm and 5:30-11:30 pm. $$. Visa and MasterCard. 93/3 Soi Lan Suan (off Ploenchit Road), Bangkok. Phone 252-5574.

ASIAN

Le Dalat Indochine—You'll be served mouthwatering, authentic Vietnamese cuisine at this premier establishment. Once you get used to the staff's garish costumes, the atmosphere is intimate and the service is impeccable. Daily 11 am-2:30 pm and 6-10 pm, reservations recommended. $$$, most major credit cards. 14 Sukhumvit Soi 23, phone 6617-9678.

Mayflower Restaurant—At the Dusit Thani hotel, the Mayflower serves highly praised Cantonese specialties in a fine, colonial-style room decorated with Chinese antiques. Roast suckling pig is a house specialty. Vegetarian dishes are excellent. Dress code. Daily 11:30 am-2 pm and 6-10 pm, reservations suggested. $$$, most major credit cards. 946 Rama IV Rd., phone 236-0450.

Mrs. Balbir's North Indian Food—This Bangkok institution has some of the best Northern Indian food available. Aside from running the restaurant, Mrs. Balbir also hosts cooking courses that are well worth investigating. Try to get a table upstairs if you prefer a quiet meal. Daily noon-11 pm. $$, most major credit cards. 155/18 Sukhumvit Soi 11 (behind Siam Commercial Bank), phone 651-0498.

Shin Daikoku—Every hotel has its obligatory Japanese restaurant; this is one of the best outside the hotels. Shin Daikoku's renowned chef serves sashimi, sushi and teppanyaki-style dishes. They offer many private rooms. Daily 11 am-2:30 pm and 6-10:30 pm. $$$, most major credit cards. 32/8 Sukhumvit, Soi 19 (on the east side, past the Ambassador Hotel), phone 259-9980.

BREAKFAST AND BRUNCH

Old Dutch Cafe—This cafe is a real breakfast treat for late risers and one of the best values in Bangkok. A gut-stuffing breakfast for 85 baht consists of three eggs, bacon, cheese, ham, turkey, sausage, french fries, rolls, orange juice and all the Dutch coffee you can drink. At night, try their famous cheese fondue with wine. It's cozy and rustic, even though the remainder of this soi is dedicated to sex tourists. Open 10 am till late. 9/3-4 Sukhumvit, Soi 23 (just outside Soi Cowboy), phone 258-9234.

FRENCH

Le Banyan—Bangkok's premier French restaurant offers both traditional and nouvelle cuisine in a lovely, colonial-style house with gardens. The wine list is astounding (and so are the prices). Dress up for this establishment. Monday-Friday 11:30 am-2 pm and 6:30-11 pm, Saturday and Sunday 6:30-11 pm. Reservations suggested. $$$$, most major credit cards. 59 Sukhumvit, Soi 8, phone 253-5556.

Le Moulin de Sommai—This comfortable French restaurant has a very attentive and friendly staff and an impressive wine list. The bar is a great spot to relax before you're seated. Monday-Saturday noon-2 pm and 6-10:30 pm, Sunday 6-10:30 pm. $$, most major credit cards. 93/3a Langsuan Rd., phone 251-3058.

ITALIAN (INCLUDING PIZZERIAS)

Airplane—Un-Italian in name, but certainly not in taste, this restaurant is a favorite choice among Thai society. Don't be surprised to see people having their photograph taken with Thai celebrities. Daily 11 am-11 pm. $$, most major credit cards. 63/10 Soi Langsuan, Ploenchit Road, phone 252-4630 or phone 729-5325.

Papparazzi—Set within the Chateau de Bangkok, Papparazzi has staked a claim on the city's pizza and pasta scene. Try the crab on ink linguini. Daily 11 am-2 pm and 6-10 pm. $$, most major credit cards. 29 Soi Ruamrudee 1, phone 651-4400.

LATE NIGHT

The sidewalk restaurants that spring up every night but Wednesday often run until 4 or 5 am. (Thai customers will insist you join their party.) And most hotels—luxury and economy—run a 24-hour coffee shop.

Ambassador Hotel—You can always get something to eat late at night at the Ambassador Hotel (Soi 11).

Greenhouse Restaurant—For a bit more class, try the Greenhouse Restaurant (open 24 hours) at the Landmark Hotel, 138 Sukhumvit, phone 254-0404, ext. 4105.

Narai Hotel—The Narai Hotel boasts an excellent restaurant that's also open 24 hours. 222 Silom Rd., phone 237-0100.

SEAFOOD

Panthong Seafood Restaurant—Specializing in Thai food and seafood, this restaurant allows you to select your dinner as it swims in front of you. Thai dance and cultural shows are performed while you eat. Select an indoor table or one in their lovely outdoor garden. Daily 5-11 pm. $, Visa and MasterCard. 133 Pan Rd. (near Silom), phone 234-6687.

Seafood Market—You enter this restaurant through an active fish market and select your entree from dozens of large fish tanks. Then, you enter a small market area where a clerk helps you select salads and vegetables. And finally, you choose a bottle from the wine rack. Give instructions on how everything should be cooked to the cashier, then sit at your table under the stars and wait for your meal to arrive. If you can't bear to look your dinner in the eye while it's still swimming, go straight to a table and order from a standard menu. Daily 11 am-midnight. $, most major credit cards. 89 Soi Sukhumvit 24 (Kasem), Klongtoey, phone 661-1252 or phone 661-1253.

ADDITIONAL EXPERIENCES

The Ayutthaya Princess—This is one of the dining highlights in Bangkok. Built to resemble a royal barge, this floating restaurant provides dinner cruises with traditional Thai culture shows. The food is great, and despite the large size of the boat (seats 170 persons), the service reflects the high standards of the boat's owner, the Shangri-La Hotel. Daily cruises depart at 7 pm, return at 9:30 pm. Dressy. $$$, most major credit cards. 89 Wat Suan Phlu, Charoen Krung Road, phone 236-7777.

Bourbon Street—Fun and boisterous, this restaurant serves Creole and Cajun dishes, Mexican food and home-style fare. Specialties include gumbo, jambalaya, tacos, chili and barbecued ribs and chicken. You can wear your grubby jeans since it's in a frankly grubby karaoke-massage area. Daily 7 am-1 am. $, most major credit cards. Washington Square, Sukhumvit, Soi 22, phone 259-0328.

Cafe at the Park—Thai and other cuisines are served in this glass-enclosed corner of the Century Park Hotel. You'll feel like you're eating in an air-conditioned park. Try the lunch or dinner buffet. On Friday and Saturday nights, a large, fresh seafood selection is added. Open 24 hours. $$, most major credit cards. Rajaprarop Road, phone 246-7800.

Wit's Oyster Bar & Restaurant—Wit's is the only oyster bar and restaurant in town. It offers typical British cooking with the freshest ingredients. Besides oysters, expect steak and kidney pie, Stilton soup, spotted duck and fish-and-chips. Their collection of spirits is excellent. Daily 11:30 am-10:30 pm. $$$, most major credit cards. 20/10-11 Ruamrudee Village, Soi Rumrudee, Ploenchit Road, phone 252-1820.