Practically every cuisine in the world is represented in Amsterdam, from sophisticated French fare to the renowned Indonesian rijsttafel. Enjoy an Argentinean steak in a decor that evokes the vast pampas, dine on a pleasure boat cruising the canals, stop at any of the inexpensive Middle Eastern grills that seem to be on every other block, or try any of the small Chinese restaurants lining the Zeedijk and its many cross streets. The hearty Dutch breakfast consists of a selection of breads, local cheeses, sliced meats, butter and jam. Lunch is usually a light snack, with dinner the main meal, eaten usually between 6 and 8 pm. Most restaurant kitchens close by 10 pm. Reservations are advisable, because restaurants are often small and may be crowded during peak periods.

At least once you should try a cone of french fries served with mayonnaise or peanut-butter sauce or any of an ever-increasing number of exotic condiments. The best french fries are called vlaamse frites (Flemish fries). Other Dutch specialties reflect this people's close relationship with the sea: smoked eel, for example, and raw herring (which is usually eaten whole with chopped onions). In winter, locals savor hearty meals of mashed potatoes combined with such vegetables as cabbage, onions and carrots (hutspot) topped with delicious smoked sausage; or snert (also called erwtensoep), a thick pea soup usually served with sausage. Make a meal of the pannenkoeken, large Dutch pancakes with bacon, cheese, apples or other ingredients mixed into the batter, or poffertjes, tiny pancakes with powdered sugar. Cafes often serve a plate of three fried eggs with ham or cheese, known as an uitsmijter, which the Dutch usually have for lunch (although it makes an excellent breakfast). Restaurants with Dutch specialties on the menu can be recognized by the red, white and blue soup tureen symbol.

The Dutch are famous for their gin (jenever) and beer (pils). A popular winter drink is a rich herbal liqueur called beerenburg. Bottled imported wines are expensive, but a carafe of house wine is usually of good quality. The Dutch drink their coffee strong, usually with cream and sugar, but tea is normally drunk weak and without milk.

Below is a sampling of restaurants in town. Expect to pay within these general guidelines, based on the cost of a dinner for one, not including drinks or tip but including tax (which is never added as an extra): $ = less than fl 15; $$ = fl 15-fl 30; $$$ = fl 31-fl 60; and $$$$ = more than fl 60.

FAVORITE RESTAURANTS

Christophe—This restaurant has three sections: Downstairs is an ample bar for aperitifs, the upstairs dining room has movable tables and the back room is well suited to small groups. The interior was designed by U.S. artist William Katz, known for his striking ballet scenery. Classic French cuisine. Tuesday-Saturday 6:30-10:30 pm. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Leliegracht 46, Amsterdam. Phone 625-0807.

D'Vijff Vlieghen—The name, which translates as "The Five Flies," is no reflection on the sanitation of this popular restaurant, which is famous for its traditional Dutch meals. It occupies five canal houses. Each of the six dining rooms (including the Rembrandt Room and the Glass Room) has a unique story, and the wait staff is happy to relate them. Daily 5:30-10 pm. Reservations essential. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Spuistraat 294-302, Amsterdam. Phone 624-8369.

De Kersentuin—Decorated in cherry red (the name means "the cherry orchard") with gleaming brass trimmings—a truly sumptuous restaurant. The international menu includes foie gras, venison steak and a chocolate tureen with Cointreau-flavored ice cream. Open Monday-Friday noon-2 pm and 6-11 pm, Saturday 6-11 pm. Reservations essential. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Dijsselhofplantsoen 7, Amsterdam. Phone 664-2121.

De Ondeugd—Located near the famous Albert Cuyp Market, this restaurant is a magnet for Dutch celebrities—TV soap-opera stars, national-league soccer players and writers. Creative international treats such as the dish named TV-Chef (fish with chutney) and kletsmajoor (which means someone who talks too much, but it's an ice-cream dessert). Daily 6 pm-midnight (kitchen open only until 11 pm). Reservations recommended. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. F. Bolstraat 13-15, Amsterdam. Phone 672-0651.

Excelsior—Sheer luxury, at the distinguished Hotel de l'Europe on Muntplein. Crystal chandeliers, windows overlooking the Amstel. Its haute cuisine has earned it a Michelin star. Open for lunch Sunday-Friday noon-2:30 pm. Open for dinner daily 7-10:30 pm. Reservations recommended. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Nieuwe Doelenstraat 2-8, Amsterdam. Phone 531-1777.

La Rive—This refined restaurant is situated in the beautiful and distinguished Amstel Inter-Continental Hotel. The French-Mediterranean cuisine includes such specialties as langoustine with tomatoes and warm chocolate cake with ice cream. Lunch Monday-Friday noon-2 pm; dinner Monday-Saturday 6:30-10:30 pm. Reservations recommended. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Prof. Tulpplein 1, Amsterdam. Phone 622-6060.

Le Ciel Bleu—This is, no doubt, the restaurant in Amsterdam with the highest altitude—located on the 23rd floor of the Hotel Okura. Not only is the view impressive, but the restaurant interior is beautifully decorated with a painted, star-filled night sky. The food is French and superb, the wine list extensive, and two set vegetarian menus are available. A relaxing place for Sunday brunch, which is served from 11:30 am. Open daily 6:30 pm-midnight. Reservations required. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Ferdinand Bolstraat 333, Amsterdam. Phone 678-7111.

Oud-Holland Restaurant—A cozy old establishment with antique Dutch decor that serves authentic Dutch dishes of all kinds. Monday-Saturday noon-10 pm. Reservations advised before 7 pm. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Nieuwe Zijdsvoorburgwal 105, Amsterdam. Phone 624-6848.

Supper Club—A combination of dining and dancing. For the dining part, you are seated on pillows next to a low table, as you're served from a menu of Pakistani, Indian, French and Italian food. If you can stir yourself afterward, you can dance to the music cooked up by the deejays. Reservations a must. $$. Most major credit cards. Jonge Roelensteeg 21, Amsterdam. Phone 638-0513.

Takens—Chef Edwin Takens is considered to be the "angry young man" of culinary Amsterdam. His gastronomic experiments are based in traditional French and Italian cooking but dabble in Asian. For a surprise meal, order the Chef's Menu. Daily 6-11 pm. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Runstraat 17d, Amsterdam. Phone 627-0618.

LOCAL AND REGIONAL SPECIALTIES

Brasserie De Port—Located in Hotel Port van Cleve, this restaurant is a citadel of traditional Dutch cooking. Best known for such old Dutch specialties as stompot and zuurkool, but offers international dishes as well. Daily noon-10:15 pm. Reservations recommended. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 176-180, Amsterdam. Phone 624-0047.

ASIAN

Indonesia—One of the best-known Indonesian restaurants, and a haunt of Dutch politicians, located just off Leidseplein. The rijsttafel, with its vast selection of Indonesian dishes wedded to sturdy Dutch vegetables and beef, is an experience not to be missed. Daily 5 pm-midnight. Reservations accepted. $$$-$$$$. Most major credit cards. Korte Leidsedwarsstraat 18, phone 623-2035.

Orient—Many vegetarian dishes and a good rijsttafel. Conveniently located near the Concertgebouw and museums. On Wednesday only, they serve an all-you-can-eat buffet for approximately fl 40. Reservations recommended, necessary on Wednesday. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Daily 5-10 pm. Van Baerlestraat 21, phone 673-4958.

Sama Sebo—A very well-known Indonesian restaurant, located just off Leidseplein. It's often crowded with Dutch politicians, football players and society people. You can eat either at the tables or at the lively bar. Monday-Saturday noon-10 pm. Reservations accepted for table seating only. $$$-$$$$. Most major credit cards. P. C. Hooftstraat 27, phone 662-8146.

BREAKFAST AND BRUNCH

Centraal Station Restaurant—This reasonably priced self-service restaurant, upstairs in Centraal Station next to Track 2a, serves breakfast until 10 am daily. $-$$. Monday-Saturday 7 am-10 pm, Sunday 8 am-10 pm. Stationsplein.

HEMA Department Store—The self-service cafeteria (snelbuffet) upstairs in this department store is good for a late breakfast or lunch. $-$$. Monday-Saturday 9:30 am-5 pm, Sunday noon-6 pm. Kalvertoren, near Muntplein, phone 422-8988.

CAFES AND TEA ROOMS

Cafe Americain—This cafe in the American Hotel is a favorite place to meet for coffee or an after-theater drink. It offers a relaxed atmosphere under high-vaulted ceilings. You can enjoy newspapers at the reading tables. In warm weather, have a salad on the terrace. Cafe open for breakfast from 7 am, restaurant open noon-midnight. Reservations accepted. $$$. Most major credit cards. Leidsekade 97, phone 624-5322.

FRENCH

Het Tuynhuys—Just behind the Flower Market, with a garden open in summer. Monday-Friday noon-2:30 pm, 6-10:30 pm, on Saturday and Sunday dinner only, 6-10:30 pm. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Reguliersdwarstraat 28, phone 627-6603.

LATE NIGHT

De Nachwacht—This charcoal grill is a popular choice for a late dinner. Daily 4 pm-12:30 am, Saturday and Sunday to 1:30 am. Reservations requested. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Thorbeckplein 2, just off Rembrandtplein, phone 622-4794.

MEXICAN

Rosa's Cantina—Packed with Dutch yuppies consuming huge portions of Tex-Mex, washed down with pitchers of margaritas. No reservations taken, but you can get drinks at the bar while you wait. Daily 5-11 pm, bar stays open until 1 am. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Regulierdwarsstraat 38-40, phone 625-9797.

SEAFOOD

De Oesterbar—Very popular fish restaurant. You select your fish from tanks. Daily noon-midnight. Reservations accepted. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Leiseplein 10, Amsterdam. Phone 623-2988.

Sluizer's—Popular draw for fish lovers, who may experiment with a continually changing variety of sauces. Popular and informal, with wooden walls and lots of art. Reservations necessary on weekends. Lunch Monday-Friday noon-3:30 pm; dinner Monday-Thursday 5-11 pm, Friday and Saturday 5 pm-midnight. Reservations necessary on weekends. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Utrechtsestraat 45, Amsterdam. Phone 626-3557.

VEGETARIAN

De Vrolijke Abrikoos—Vegetarian specialties are served, along with some fish and meat dishes. Organic ingredients from around the world. A warm atmosphere, with classical music playing in the background. Daily 5:30-10 pm. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Weteringschans 76, phone 624-4672.

ADDITIONAL EXPERIENCES

Amsterdam Dinner Cruise—Lets you sightsee along the illuminated canals while you dine. The three-hour cruise departs every day from a pier in front of Centraal Station, from April-October at 8 pm, but in winter Tuesday, Friday and Saturday only, at 7 pm. Cost is approximately fl 150 per person, dinner and drinks included. Reservations are essential; make them through your hotel or Holland International Tourist Office. Phone 622-7788.

In de Waag—Built in 1430 as the gatehouse to the city, this structure served for a couple of centuries as the weigh station for goods coming into Amsterdam. Today it's an elegant cafe and restaurant. Internet access can be had for the price of a drink. Sample muffins and uitsmijters for breakfast, salads and sandwiches for lunch, grill offerings at dinner. Daily 10 am-midnight. No reservations. $$$. Most major credit cards. Nieuwmarkt 4, phone 422-7772.

Soeterijn Restaurant—Specializes in the African and Asian cuisines of the countries showcased in the adjacent Tropenmuseum and in performances at the Soeterijn Theater. For a multicultural experience, book tickets for an evening show at the Soeterijn by calling 568-8500 weekdays from 10 am-4 pm, then reserve a table for dinner at the restaurant (see the museum in the afternoon). Lunch Tuesday-Friday noon-3 pm, dinner Monday-Saturday 5:30-8:30 pm. $. Reservations recommended. Most major credit cards. Linnaeusstraat 2, phone 568-8392.

VOC Cafe in de Schreierstoren—The plaque in front of this restaurant, built in 1482, reads, "From this 'Tower of Tears' Henry Hudson set sail for the New World on 4 April 1695." For centuries, women have shed tears waving goodbye to their men from this spot. The brick walls now house a cafe serving lunch and snacks. Two terraces offer fine views. On the top floor is a shop with books, maps and nautical equipment. Open daily 10 am-1 am. $-$$. Credit cards not accepted. Prins Hendrikkade 94, phone 428-8291.