The past decade or so has seen an explosion of quality restaurants in Washington, so many that Washingtonian magazine has expanded its annual review of top eateries to 100. Recent waves of immigration have brought an immense diversity of cuisines. The ethnically rich Adams Morgan neighborhood, especially along 18th Street just south of Columbia Road N.W., is wall to wall with restaurants, many both cheap and good. Across the river in Arlington, Virginia, a host of fine, inexpensive Vietnamese restaurants face the Clarendon subway station (Nam Viet is the best).

Below is a sampling of restaurants in town. Expect to pay within these general guidelines, based on the cost of a dinner for one, excluding drinks, tax or tip: $ = less than US$10; $$ = US$10-$20; $$$ = US$21-$50; $$$$ = more than US$50.

FAVORITE RESTAURANTS

Alamo Grill of Georgetown—Known for its homemade sauces, the Alamo Grill serves both Tex-Mex and regional Mexican food in a spacious dining room. Try the traditional enchiladas. Sunday-Thursday 11:30 am-11 pm, Friday and Saturday 11:30 am-3 am. $$. Most major credit cards. No Metro nearby. 1063 31st St. N.W., Washington D.C. Phone 202-342-2000.

Ardeo—In Latin ardeo means passion. This talked-about restaurant in Cleveland Park serves New American cuisine with a twist. Try the black bean soup topped with grilled bananas or the lemongrass-scented sticky rice. Don't pass up the chocolate mousse cake. Sunday-Thursday 5:30-10:30 pm, Friday and Saturday until 11:30 pm. Brunch Saturday and Sunday 11 am-3 pm. $$. Most major credit cards. In Cleveland Park. 3311 Connecticut Ave. N.W., Washington D.C. Phone 202-244-6750.

Coco Loco—Very popular with the under-35 crowd, Coco Loco features live music, dancing and two different menus: Mexican tapas and Brazilian roasted meats served in a garden like atmosphere. Lunch Tuesday-Friday 11:30 am-2:30 pm, Monday-Thursday 5:30-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 5:30-11 pm. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Chinatown area near Renaissance Hotel, Metro: Gallery Place. 810 7th St. N.W., Washington D.C. Phone 202-289-2626.

Equinox Bar & Grill—Chef/owner Todd Gray established himself in the Washington restaurant world as chef at Galileo. Equinox provides his own spin on contemporary American cooking, emphasizing flavor over presentation. Monday-Friday 11 am-10 pm, Saturday noon-10:30 pm. $$$-$$$$. Most major credit cards. Metro: Farragut West or North. 818 Connecticut Ave. N.W., Washington D.C. Phone 202-331-8118.

Galileo—Although the staff has sometimes been less than courteous, Galileo has been the benchmark for Washington dining since the early 1980s. The Northern Italian menu changes daily, but if you're lucky, you'll find creamy risotto, fresh asparagus salad, grilled portobello mushrooms and sauteed sea bass on it when you're there. Monday-Friday 11:30 am-2 pm, Monday-Friday 5:30-12:15 am, Saturday 5:30-10:30 pm, Sunday 5-9:30 pm. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Metro: Foggy Bottom. 1110 21st St. N.W., Washington D.C. Phone 202-293-7191.

Japan Inn—Delicious Japanese cuisine served in sumptuous yet intimate surroundings decorated with beautiful woodwork. The tangy salads and vast selection of entrees are just as good as the food found in Tokyo. Monday-Friday noon-2 pm, Monday-Thursday 6-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 6-10:30 pm, Sunday 5:30-9:30 pm. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Near the Georgetown area. 1715 Wisconsin Ave. N.W., Washington D.C. Phone 202-337-3400.

Kinkead's—New American seafood, served in a simple and unadorned room. Menu changes daily, but fresh fish and seafood are always available. Try the tuna tartare or the pepita-crusted salmon with shellfish and chili ragout. Sunday-Thursday 5:30-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 5:30-10:30 pm. $$$. Most major credit cards. Metro: Foggy Bottom-GWU. 2000 Pennsylvania Ave. N.W., Washington D.C. Phone 202-296-7700.

Nora—A New American restaurant that has won the attention of many Washington notables. It's famous for its creative cuisine: Try the peppered beef carpaccio with horseradish dressing and potato salad. Food is all organic and healthful. Monday-Thursday 6-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 6-10:30 pm. $$$. Most major credit cards. Metro: Dupont Circle. 2132 Florida Ave. N.W., Washington D.C. Phone 202-462-5143.

LOCAL AND REGIONAL SPECIALTIES

Morrison-Clark—An elegant dining room in a romantic inn, this downtown restaurant emphasizes New American cuisine with a slight Southern accent. The smoked salmon and roasted pork loin are well regarded. Lunch Monday-Friday 11:30 am-2:30 pm, Saturday 11:30 am-2 pm, dinner daily 6-9 pm. $$. Most major credit cards. Metro: Farragut North. Massachusetts Avenue and 11th Street, Washington D.C. Phone 202-898-1200.

Tabard Inn—In this retreat near Dupont Circle are a wood-paneled library with fireplace for predinner cocktails, parlor-sized dining rooms and a brick terrace for outdoor dining. House specialties include blackened steak, shellfish stew and grilled trout and tuna. Open Monday-Friday 11:30 am-2:30 pm, Monday-Saturday 6-10 pm, brunch served Saturday 11 am-2:30 pm and Sunday 10:30 am-2:30 pm. $$. Most major credit cards. Metro: Dupont Circle. 1739 N St. N.W., Washington D.C. Phone 202-833-2668.

AMERICAN

1789—Perhaps the most romantic restaurant in D.C., this beautifully furnished dining room in a Federal town house boasts fireplaces, hunt-and-landscape paintings and antiques, in addition to outstanding fare. The menu changes with the seasons, but there's a good chance you'll find sauteed shrimp, red snapper and rack of lamb on it. Monday-Thursday 6-10 pm, Friday 6-11 pm, Saturday 5-11 pm and Sunday 5-10 pm. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. In the Georgetown neighborhood, no nearby Metro stop. 1226 36th St. N.W. Phone 202-965-1789.

Vidalia—Exemplar of New Southern cuisine, Vidalia provides pan-roasted sweetbreads with morels, filet of halibut, top sirloin and a variety of seafood dishes. Monday-Friday 11:30 am-2:30 pm, Monday-Thursday 5:30-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 5:30-10:30 pm. $$$. Most major credit cards. 1990 M St. N.W. (Metro: Dupont Circle), phone 202-659-1990.

ASIAN

Aditi—The only inexpensive restaurant to rate three stars from Washingtonian magazine, Aditi serves up wonderfully authentic Indian cuisine at extremely reasonable prices. Monday-Saturday 11:30 am-2:30 pm and 5:30-10:30 pm. $-$$. Located in Georgetown at 3299 M St. N.W. (no Metro nearby), phone 202-625-6825.

Bombay Club—Take the decor of a British officer's club, serve up such Indian dishes as tandoori, marinated and roasted salmon, honey chicken and lamb curry, and you may come to believe that the Empire has returned. Good site for vegetarians, too. Monday-Friday and Sunday 11:30 am-2:30 pm, dinner Monday-Thursday 6-10:30 pm, Friday and Saturday 6-11 pm, Sunday 5:30-9 pm. $$-$$$. Downtown at 815 Connecticut Ave N.W. (Metro: Farragut West), phone 202-659-3727.

Delhi Dhaba Indian Cafe—Located in nearby Arlington, VA, this cafe offers the best tandoori cuisine outside of India. Casual dining atmosphere with low prices for very fresh meals, vegetarian and otherwise. Try the succulent Tandoori Chicken. Sunday-Thursday 11 am-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 11 am-11 pm. $. Most major credit cards. 2424 Wilson Blvd., Arlington, VA, near the Courthouse Metro stop, phone 703-524-0008.

BREAKFAST AND BRUNCH

I Matti Trattoria—For a super Sunday brunch, try this spot in Adams Morgan. Chef Roberto Donna's trattoria wins raves for its homemade delicacies. $$. Monday-Thursday noon-2 pm and 5:30-10 pm, Friday and Saturday noon-2 pm and 5:30-11 pm, Sunday 5:30-10 pm. 2436 18th St. N.W. (Metro: Dupont Circle), phone 202-462-8844.

Tabard Inn—In addition to serving fine dinners, this restaurant near Dupont Circle offers one of the best breakfasts in town. Try their omelettes and fresh breads. Breakfast is served Monday-Friday 7-10 am, Saturday 8-10 am and Sunday 8-9:30 am; weekend brunch is served Saturday 11 am-2:30 pm and Sunday 10:30 am-2:30 pm. $-$$. 1739 N St. N.W. (Metro: Dupont Circle), phone 202-331-8528.

CONTINENTAL

Jockey Club—This power-dining spot is where to spot senators, ambassadors, media celebrities (and owners) and the visiting rock star. The food alone, however, is worth the visit: crab cakes, lamb chops and whatever fish is on the menu. Open daily 11:30 am-3 pm and 6-11 pm. $$$. 2100 Massachusetts Ave. N.W. (Metro: Dupont Circle), phone 202-293-2100.

ITALIAN (INCLUDING PIZZERIAS)

Cafe Milano—True to its original cafe style, this Georgetown hideaway is a must. From the focaccia bread and tomatoes appetizer to entrees like grilled calves liver or a more conservative Taccole les Capains, basil pasta with shrimp and scallops. Cafe Milano serves up Italy at its finest. Lunch daily 11:30 am-4 pm, dinner Sunday-Wednesday 5:30-11:30 pm, Thursday-Saturday 5:30 pm-1 am. 3251 Prospect Ave. N.W. (no Metro nearby), phone 202-333-6183.

LATE NIGHT

Kramerbooks & Afterwords Cafe—A bookstore and full-service restaurant in Dupont Circle. Food and spirits are served Monday-Thursday 7:30 am-1 am, Friday 7 am continuously through Monday 1 am. Live music on Wednesday and Saturday nights. $-$$. 1517 Connecticut Ave. N.W. (Metro: Dupont Circle), phone 202-387-1462.

Soho Tea & Coffee—The coffeehouse with the latest hours in the capitol city. Stop by on Wednesday night for amateur open mic night or any night for a cup of coffee, alternative music and people watching. Smoking permitted. Open Tuesday-Saturday 7:30 am-4 am, Sunday and Monday 7:30 am-3 am. $. 2150 P St. N.W. (Metro: Dupont Circle), phone 202-463-7646.

SOUL FOOD

B. Smith's, Union Station—B. Smith's occupies the historic waiting room at Union Station and is named after a New York model. Southern staples such as barbecue, fried catfish and mashed potatoes are popular, as are the red beans and rice. Save room for the luscious pecan diamond cookies. Live jazz. Monday-Friday 11:30 am-4 pm, Friday and Saturday 5 pm-midnight, Sunday-Thursday 5-11 pm. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. 50 Massachusetts Ave. N.E., phone 202-289-6188.

SPANISH

Jaleo—A popular oasis in a neighborhood not overly blessed with restaurants, Jaleo is a chic, sunny retreat serving up zesty Spanish dishes. Try their renowned paella or costillas (lamb chops). Tapas are an option. Open Sunday and Monday 11:30 am-10 pm, Tuesday-Thursday 11:30 am-11:30 pm, Friday and Saturday 11:30 am-midnight. Reservations accepted until 6:30 pm. $$. Most major credit cards. Downtown at 480 7th St. N.W. (Metro: Archives), phone 202-628-7949.

STEAK HOUSES

Morton's of Chicago—This male-dominated chophouse stresses red meat—the rawer the better—but don't overlook the fresh swordfish and lobster options. If prime rib is your choice, go early, for it frequently sells out quickly. Monday-Saturday 5:30-11 pm, Sunday 5-10 pm. $$$$. Most major cards. 3251 Prospect St. N.W. (Georgetown), phone 202-342-6258.

Ruth's Chris Steak House—Though it's part of a chain, Ruth's cooks up superb tenderloin steak. Flying in the face of heart-healthy trends, many D.C. good ol' boys still like their meat red and their bourbon strong. Monday-Thursday 5-10:30 pm, Friday 5-11 pm, Sunday 5-10 pm. $$$$. Most major credit cards. 1801 Connecticut Ave. N.W., phone 202-797-0033.

ADDITIONAL EXPERIENCES

Iron Gate—Working fireplaces in winter and outdoor garden dining the rest of the year. All year there's creative Mediterranean fare at this cozy restaurant in a converted carriage house. Lunch Monday-Thursday 11:30 am-9 pm, Friday 11:30 am-10 pm, Saturday 6-10 pm. Reservations recommended. $$. Most major credit cards. Near Dupont Circle, 1734 N St. N.W. (Metro: Dupont Circle), phone 202-737-1370.

Zed's Ethiopian Cuisine—Tops among many Ethiopian restaurants in D.C., spicy fare is served atop—and scooped up with—pieces of spongy bread known as injera (fingers only, in true Ethiopian fashion). Sunday-Thursday 11 am-11 pm, Friday and Saturday 11 am-1 am. Reservations for groups only. $$. Most major credit cards. Georgetown, 3318 M St. N.W. (no Metro stop nearby), phone 202-333-4710.