Seattle is best known for three types of cuisine: seafood, Asian and a contemporary styling sometimes called Northwest cuisine. The last of these marries many cultural influences (Asian, Northern Italian, French and Californian) with fresh ingredients—locally caught seafood, as well as the vegetables, fruits, herbs and spices available at Pike Place Market. Kaspar's on lower Queen Anne Hill specializes in hearty Northwestern cuisine.

When ordering seafood, make sure you're getting fresh local fare, not frozen. Snow crab, mahimahi and prawns are usually not local, for instance; Dungeness crab, clams, oysters, halibut, cod and snapper (actually rockfish) are. The best salmon are sockeye, king (chinook) and coho (silver). Try Ivar's for alder-smoked salmon.

A number of hotel restaurants stand out, especially Andaluca at the Mayflower Park and the Georgian Room at the Four Seasons. And we love the desserts at Dilettante Chocolates' cafe, the chocolate-lover's equivalent of an opium den. Of course, Seattle is the coffee capital of North America, and residents like their coffee strong. Sample some from the hundreds of espresso carts and coffee shops.

Dress is informal except at a few top-of-the-line restaurants. Reservations at popular places are advisable Friday and Saturday nights and well in advance of such holidays as Valentine's Day.

Below is a sampling of restaurants in town. Expect to pay within these general guidelines for a single dinner without tax, tip or drinks: $ = US$10-$20, $$ = US$21-$30, $$$ = US$31-$50; and $$$$ = more than US$50.

FAVORITE RESTAURANTS

Bandoleone—Fifteen minutes north of downtown, this lively Latino restaurant has nicely spiced food with interesting accompaniments. Specials change daily. Cigar nights are every Monday (smoking permitted nightly in the bar after 10 pm). The first Monday of every month is Carmen Miranda night, when women are encouraged to smoke cigars. Sunday-Thursday 5:30-10:30 pm, Friday and Saturday 5:30-11 pm (later in the summer). Bar opens at 5 pm daily. $. Most major credit cards. 2241 Eastlake Ave. E. (near E. Lynn), Seattle. Phone 206-329-7559.

Dahlia Lounge—Chef John Sunstrom's version of Northwest cuisine is always interesting (witness the grilled salmon over polenta with apricot and rosemary garnish) and constantly evolving (except for the heavenly baked Dungeness crab cakes, which are a mainstay). The atmosphere is Egyptian/deco with sub-Saharan African motifs. Lunch Monday-Friday 11:30 am-2:30 pm. Dinner Monday-Thursday 5:30-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 5:30-11 pm, Sunday 5-9 pm. $$. Most major credit cards. 1904 4th Ave., Seattle. Phone 206-682-4142.

Georgian Room—Seattle's grandest restaurant is filled with glittering glass, glimmering brass and elegant appointments. The food is equally distinctive—Northwest cuisine done with great flair. Desserts are scandalously sumptuous. Breakfast weekdays 6:30-11 am, Saturday till noon, Sunday 7 am-1 pm. Dinner Monday-Thursday 5:30-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 5:30-10:30 pm. Weekday lunch and Sunday brunch in the hotel's Garden Court. Reservations recommended most nights. $$$. Most major credit cards. 411 University St. (in the Four Seasons hotel), Seattle. Phone 206-621-7889..

Kaspar's—Chef/owner Kaspar Donier melds Swiss precision with Northwest inventiveness. His version of Northwest cuisine is hearty, with lots of meat and game as well as strong-flavored seafood. The menu rotates, but one staple is Hinterberger's Four-Star Scallops, named after a local food critic, which comes with a bacon sauce and garlic mashed potatoes. It's located near the Seattle Center, with a spectacular view of Elliott Bay. Tuesday-Thursday 5-9 pm, Friday and Saturday 5-10 pm. $$. Most major credit cards. 19 W. Harrison, Seattle. Phone 206-298-0123.

Marco's Supperclub—The oxblood-colored walls tell you right away this place is spunky. Their signature appetizer is flash-fried sage leaves with three dipping sauces (tomatillo, chipotle, aioli). Entrees rotate, but the fish and Jamaican jerk chicken are always good. For dessert, there's bread pudding with toasted pecans and white sauce. Sunday-Thursday 5:30-11 pm, Friday and Saturday 5:30 pm-midnight. The bar is open 5 pm-1 am. $. Most major credit cards. 2510 1st Ave., Seattle. Phone 206-441-7801.

LOCAL AND REGIONAL SPECIALTIES

Andaluca—Chef Don Curtiss has created a Mediterranean/Northwest cuisine for this highly regarded restaurant in the Mayflower Park Hotel. The decor is contemporary yet restrained and artistic, and the food is robust and dramatic. Shellfish stews and lamb dishes are lovely. Daily breakfast 6:30 am-11 am, lunch 11:30 am-2:30 pm, dinner 5-10 pm. $$$. Most major credit cards. 407 Olive Way, Seattle. Phone 206-382-6999.

Painted Table—Many regulars come to this colorful, highly regarded restaurant in the Alexis Hotel. Chef Tim Kelley's goat cheese and vegetable salad draws raves, though the Northwest cuisine is excellent across the menu. Recent entrees include saffron linguine with shellfish and grilled vanilla-bean marinated veal chops. Breakfast Monday-Friday 6:30-10:30 am, Saturday and Sunday 7:30 am-noon. Lunch Monday-Friday 11:30 am-2 pm. Dinner daily 5:30-10 pm. $$. Most major credit cards. 92 Madison St., Seattle. Phone 206-624-3646.

ASIAN

I Love Sushi—Waiters in traditional hajimaki headbands serve outstanding sea-urchin and abalone dishes, when in season. The sushi presentations have won awards. Locals flock to consume chawan mushi—steamed custard egg soup. Don't pass up the wasabi mustard! Lunch Monday-Friday 11:30 am-2 pm. Dinner Sunday-Thursday 5-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 5-10:30 pm. $. Most major credit cards. 1001 Fairview Ave. N., Seattle. Phone 206-625-9604. They're also in Bellevue.

Wild Ginger Asian Restaurant and Satay Bar—Near Pike Place Market, this eatery serves Southeast Asian/Malaysian cuisine—fiery curries, stir-fries and satays—and some Sichuan items such as crispy duck. It's popular with the business crowd at lunch, but it also draws folks to jazz performances Mondays at 10 pm. Lunch Monday-Friday 11:30 am-3 pm. Dinner Monday-Thursday 5-10:30 pm, Friday 5 pm-midnight, Saturday 4:30 pm-midnight, Sunday 4:30-11 pm. Lounge is open daily to 2 am. $$. Most major credit cards. 1400 Western Ave., Seattle. Phone 206-623-4450.

COFFEEHOUSES

Bauhaus Books and Coffee—This spacious, book-lined haven, with generous windows, offers a mix of coffees. Most of the books are for sale. Smoking is permitted upstairs. Monday-Friday 7 am-1 am, Saturday and Sunday 8 am-1 am. $. Most major credit cards. 301 E. Pine St., Seattle. Phone 206-625-1600.

Pegasus Coffee and Pastry Bar—They claim to be the first coffee bar ever in Seattle, established in 1979. Seating is limited—only three stools. Monday-Friday 6:30 am-4:30 pm. $. Most major credit cards. 711 3rd Ave., Seattle. Phone 206-682-3113.

Starbucks—Visit the original store that started the enormous coffeehouse chain. It's a tourist mecca, even though this outlet is small and dark. In summer months, there are often musical performers outside, from gospel singers to small chamber groups. Monday-Saturday 6:30 am-7 pm, Sunday 6:30 am-6:30 pm. $. Most major credit cards. Pike Place Market, 1912 Pike Place, Seattle. Phone 206-448-8762.

FRENCH

Campagne—Sample Southern French food, with eclectic variations, at this cozy but elegant setting just up Post Alley in the Pike Place Market. The grilled lobster with buckwheat spaetzle is outstanding, and game is served on occasion. Linen tablecloths, fresh flowers and an extensive wine list. Daily 5:30-10 pm. $$. Most major credit cards. 86 Pine St., between Stewart and Pine on Post Alley (enter through the courtyard), Seattle. Phone 206-728-2800. Also try their casual cafe around the corner at 1600 Post Alley.

ITALIAN (INCLUDING PIZZERIAS)

Il Terrazzo Carmine—Classic Italian cuisine is served in an attractive courtyard. Try their osso buco or their venison ravioli with wild mushroom sauce. Also recommended are the calamari, rabbit and sweetbreads. Lunch Monday-Friday 11:30 am-2:30 pm. Dinner Monday-Thursday 5:30-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 5:30-10:45 pm. $$. Most major credit cards. 411 1st Ave. S. (on the far side of the lobby), Seattle. Phone 206-467-7797.

LATE NIGHT

Caffe Minnie's—This is a great spot for bacon and eggs any time of day. Open 24 hours. $. Most major credit cards. 611 Broadway E., Capitol Hill, Seattle. Phone 206-860-1360. A second location is at 101 Denny Way (near Seattle Center).

Thirteen Coins Restaurant—Half the fun is sitting at the counter, watching the tremendous energy of the cooks grilling amazing quantities of food. Booths and seating are also available, but you'll miss the action. Full cholesterol breakfasts are served all day, plus salads, chicken, steak, burgers, and thick fries. Open 24 hours. $. Most major credit cards. 125 Boren N. (15 minutes from downtown, but don't walk it), Seattle. Phone 206-682-2513.

SEAFOOD

Cutter's Bayhouse—At the north end of Pike Place Market, Cutter's has something for everyone: a view, a lively bar, crab tanks, a huge menu, quick service and affordable food—seafood with an Asian accent. Soba noodles are always good, but so are the grilled salmon and the roasted tiger prawns. For brunch, the pecan raisin French toast is awesome. Monday-Thursday 11 am-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 11 am-11 pm, Sunday 10 am-9 pm. $. Most major credit cards. 2001 Western Ave., Seattle. Phone 206-448-4884.

Etta's Seafood—Located opposite Cutter's at the north end of Pike Place Market, Etta's is serious about food and its presentation. The spice-rubbed, pit-roasted Alaska King salmon with corn bread pudding is a favorite. Monday-Thursday 11:30 am-10 pm, Friday 11:30 am-11 pm, Saturday and Sunday 9 am-3 pm and 4-10 pm. $-$$. Most major credit cards. 2020 Western Ave., Seattle. Phone 206-443-6000.

Flying Fish—This place shows off beautiful people and beautiful food. Just reading the list of appetizers gets you going: smoked shrimp spring rolls, for example, or crispy fried calamari with honey-jalapeno mayonnaise. The menu varies, but it's likely to have the whole fried snapper with pineapple-anchovy dipping sauce or a platter of salt-and-pepper Dungeness crab to share. Desserts are lovely—try the pot-de-creme trio (vanilla, almond and hazelnut) or the chocolate grappa brownie. Daily 5 pm-midnight. Pub grub to 1 am. $-$$. Most major credit cards. 2234 1st Ave., Seattle. Phone 206-728-8595.

Ivar's Acres of Clams—Ivar's is a Northwest institution. The founder, Ivar Haglund, was a Seattle character who helped popularize what are now established seafood favorites: clams, steamed or fried, and chowder. Sunday-Thursday 11 am-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 11 am-11 pm. $. Most major credit cards. Pier 54 on the waterfront, Seattle. Phone 206-624-6852. A second location, Ivar's Salmon House, has been disappointing.

McCormick & Schmick's—Incomparable for fish lovers, this eatery has almost 40 kinds on the menu. From Columbia River sturgeon to Escolar monchong (white fish from Fiji), you can choose the exotic or the well known, such as crab cakes or pan-fried oysters. An attractive bar runs the length of the main dining room—it's most lively right after work hours. Monday-Friday 11:30 am-11 pm, Saturday 4-11 pm, Sunday 4-10 pm. $-$$. Most major credit cards. 1103 1st Ave. (in the downtown business district), Seattle. Phone 206-623-5500.

Ponti Seafood Grill—This restaurant has everything: glorious water views, superb food and efficient and friendly service. They serve what is arguably the best broiled salmon in the city. A recent menu included a number of pasta dishes, such as Thai curry penne with scallops, crab meat and ginger-tomato chutney. Monday and Tuesday 11:30 am-midnight, Wednesday-Saturday 11:30 am-2 am, Sunday 10 am-midnight. $-$$. Most major credit cards. 3014 3rd Ave., Fremont (south of the ship canal, west of Fremont Bridge), Seattle. Phone 206-284-3000.

Ray's Boathouse—Waterfront views of Shilshole Bay and the Olympic Mountains are lovely. The menu always offers fresh shellfish and fish, but ask for the daily fish sheet to check for specials. Attire ranges from shorts and polo shirts worn by drive-up boaters to business suits. Reservations are a must in the downstairs dining room (at least 4 weeks in advance in summer). The less-expensive cafe upstairs is more readily accessible without reservations and offers an outdoor deck in summer. The dining room is open most days 5-9 pm, the cafe 11:30 am-9:30 pm. Both may close later on Friday and Saturday and in the summer. $-$$. Most major credit cards. 6049 Seaview Ave. N.W., Seattle. Phone 206-789-3770.

ADDITIONAL EXPERIENCES

Briazz—This chain of upscale take-out places is catching on in the Seattle area. Choose between soups, pastas, calzones, salads and vegetarian and meat sandwiches on hearty breads and rolls. Everything is available to go, or you can sit at a counter along the window or at tables in back amid wildly colored walls and light fixtures. Monday-Friday 6:30 am-6:30 pm, Saturday 9 am-6 pm, Sunday 10 am-5 pm. $. Most major credit cards. 1400 5th Ave., Seattle. Phone 206-343-3099.

Dilettante Chocolates—This shop sells award-winning chocolates by the pound, notably the ephemere (dark chocolate) and champagne truffles, but it's also a late-night, apres movie or theater hangout. You can keep your engines stoked with cakes, tortes, cookies, brownies, coffee or pots of brewed tea. But don't order the egg cream if you know what it tastes like in New York City. After 9 pm, expect to wait 20-30 minutes. Sunday-Thursday noon-midnight, Friday and Saturday noon-1 am. $. Most major credit cards. 416 Broadway E., Capitol Hill, Seattle. Phone 206-329-6463.

Hunt Club—Nestled in the Sorrento Hotel, this restaurant is well worth seeking out for its Old World mahogany-paneled, rough-brick atmosphere and excellent food. Sustainable, organic ingredients are used when possible. The diverse menu—including free-range lamb with butternut squash ravioli and King salmon with rustic vegetables—earns food critics' respect. Daily breakfast 7-10 am, lunch 11 am-2:30 pm, dinner 5-10 pm. Prix-fixe dinner 5-6 pm. $$$. Most major credit cards. 900 E. Madison, Seattle. Phone 206-343-6156.

Lampreia—Chef Scott Carsberg has been described as a food fanatic, the sort of chef who comes out to personally shave rare truffles onto foie gras and to coddle veal chops that are said to melt with a hard look. Foodies seek him out; critics praise him. The dining room is spare, so come for the food, not the atmosphere. Tuesday-Thursday 5-10:30 pm, Friday and Saturday 5-11 pm. $$$. Most major credit cards. 2400 1st Ave., Seattle. Phone 206-443-3301.

Space Needle—The best views in town are from the restaurant at the top of the Space Needle. Suprisingly, the food isn't too bad either, thanks to a recent change in kitchen staff. The dinner menu is standard Northwest cuisine. For brunch, there are omelettes and eggs Benedict. Summer hours: daily 8 am-midnight (last seating at 10:30 pm). Winter hours: Sunday-Thursday 8 am-11 pm (last seating at 9:45 pm), Friday and Saturday 8 am-midnight (last seating at 10:45 pm). $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Seattle. Phone 206-443-2100.