Cuisine on a global scale is a source of pride for San Franciscans, who claim they have more restaurants per capita than any other city. Stiff competition often makes for good prices, too.

San Francisco's diverse neighborhoods make ethnic dining a lively option: Chinatown and Inner Richmond for Chinese dishes, Polk and Larkin Streets for Vietnamese and Cambodian, North Beach for Italian, the Mission District for Mexican and Latin American. Then there's Fisherman's Wharf for seafood, SoMa (south of Market) for trendy cafes and jazzy nightspots, and the Haight-Ashbury District for inexpensive, eclectic menus geared to the bohemian crowd.

California cuisine, no longer "nouvelle," is ultrafresh, using local ingredients—vegetables, fish and meats—with imaginative and colorful French-inspired presentations. The dishes are often complemented by terrific California wines. Fine California cuisine can be found in Union Square, the Financial District and other parts of the city.

Below is a sampling of restaurants in town. Expect to pay within these general guidelines, based on the cost of a dinner for one, not including drinks, tax or tip: $ = less than US$15; $$ = US$16-$25; $$$ = US$26-$50; and $$$$ = more than US$50.

FAVORITE RESTAURANTS

Delfina—A tiny oasis in the newly hip and funky Mission district, Delfina offers lovingly prepared meats, fowl, fish, pastas and salads that vary daily according to what the market provides. Try chef Craig Stoll's duck confit, and for dessert order a cooling tangerine granita. A pretty little patio extends the limited seating somewhat. Open for dinner only Monday-Thursday 5:30-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 5:30-11 pm, Sunday 5:30-10 pm. Reservations highly recommended. $$. Most major credit cards. 3621 18th St. (between Dolores and Guerrero)., San Francisco. Phone 415-552-4055.

Fournou's Ovens—Oak-fired ovens and a wine cellar of 20,000 bottles help account for the awards won by this posh Nob Hill restaurant. Executive chef Raman Natarajan's seafood, oven-roasted meats and desserts are Fournou's forte. The Pavilions section serves breakfast, lunch and a weekend brunch on the patio overlooking the cable cars. Daily 6:30 am-to 3 pm; 5:30-10 pm; Friday and Saturday to 10:30 pm. Reservations required. Coat and tie recommended for dinner. $$$. Most major credit cards. 905 California St. (at Powell), Renaissance Stanford Court Hotel, San Francisco. Phone 415-989-1910.

Globe—Popular with post-shift chefs, society ladies, even the mayor, Globe serves impeccable bistro-style food. Favorites include the shellfish-laden bouillabaisse and rotisserie chicken. Open for dinner until 1 am. Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards. 290 Pacific, San Francisco. Phone 415-391-4132.

Jardiniere—Terrific range of contemporary French-California cuisine prepared by Tracy Des Jardins. A glorious and intricate two-story, mezzanine interior, which draws the opera and theater crowd. Daily 5:30-10:30 pm. Reservations required. $$$. Most major credit cards. Civic Center area. 300 Grove St., San Francisco. Phone 415-861-5555.

Masa's—The restaurant with the highest Zagat rating in the city is noted for its seafood, game and exquisite sauces. Two set menus run about US$80 for several courses. More than 600 wines, attentive service and a room of classic elegance make dining at Masa's a special occasion. Tuesday-Saturday 6 pm-midnight. Closed first two weeks of January and the week of 4 July. Reservations recommended. $$$$. Most major credit cards. At Union Square. 648 Bush St., San Francisco. Phone 415-989-7154.

MC2—Looking like a chic, new and spacious warehouse, with extensive brick, blond wood and pillars galore, MC2 is pulling in the knowing, beautiful people. Chef Yoshi Kojima's menu—French with Pacific Rim influences—encompasses everything from roasted fish to stuffed quail to vegetables in fig sauce. Extensive wine list and a separate bar menu. Open for lunch Monday-Friday 11:30 am-2:30 pm, for dinner Monday-Thursday 5:30-10 pm, Friday and Saturday to 10:30 pm. Closed Sunday. Reservations requested. $$$. Most major credit cards. At Montgomery. 470 Pacific Ave., San Francisco. Phone 415-956-0666.

Plouf—A seafood bistro tucked away on a pedestrians-only alley in the heart of the financial district, with lots of outdoor seating. The feeling is "French village," in the middle of the city. Mussels are the house specialty—they do them 10 ways, served in brimming bowls. Monday-Friday-11:30 am-2:30 pm, Monday-Saturday 5:30-10:30 pm. Reservations recommended. $$. Most major credit cards. Beldon Place at Bush, San Francisco. Phone 415-986-6491.

Postrio—This dramatic trilevel just off Union Square is Wolfgang Puck's Northern California culinary home, and it's regularly rated one of the city's best. The cuisine is inventively haute Californian with Mediterranean and some Asian touches. Breakfast and lunch Monday-Friday 7-10 am and 11:30 am-2 pm; dinner Sunday-Thursday 5:30-10 pm, Friday-Saturday 5:30-10:30 pm. Reservations required. Coat and tie suggested. $$$. Most major credit cards. At Mason St., adjacent to the Prescott Hotel. 545 Post St. (in the Prescott Hotel), San Francisco. Phone 415-776-7825.

LOCAL AND REGIONAL SPECIALTIES

Aqua—This is the place for seafood, prepared by noted chef Michael Mina. The underwater theme is enhanced by the contemporary deco decor, with a delightful high-ceilinged interior and custom glass light fixtures. Lunch Monday-Friday 11:30 am-2:15 pm, dinner Monday-Saturday 5:30-10:30 pm. $$$. Most major credit cards. In the Financial District. 252 California St., San Francisco. Phone 415-956-9662.

Beach Chalet Brewery—Great place to have a microbrew while viewing the crashing waves of Ocean Beach. (Even on sunny days, the beach is cool and windswept, with stinging sand—so it's pleasant to sit warm and protected, behind the Beach Chalet's windows.) Casual brew-pub atmosphere, with somewhat overpriced burgers and seafood. Sunday-Thursday 11:30 am-11 pm, Friday-Saturday 11:30-2 am, Sunday brunch 11:30-3pm. $. Most major credit cards. Above the Visitors Center, an old Spanish-style building. 1000 Great Highway, San Francisco. Phone 415-386-8439.

Fringale—This restaurant offers country French food, from the expected to the unusual, served by hand-picked French and Basque waitpersons. Small and intimate with an elegant and calm interior. Monday-Friday 11:30 am-3 pm, daily 5:30-11:30 pm. $$. Most major credit cards. In SoMa (South of Market district). 570 4th St., San Francisco. Phone 415-543-0573.

Garden Court—The stained-glass dome and chandeliers make this SoMa dining experience extra special, and the outstanding California-French menu lives up to the decor. Sunday's champagne brunch is splendid. Monday-Sunday 6:30-11 am and 11:30 am-2 pm, Wednesday-Saturday 6-10 pm, Sunday brunch 11:30 am-2 pm, tea Wednesday-Saturday 2-5 pm. Reservations advisable. Coat and tie recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards. At Market Street, in the Palace Hotel. 2 New Montgomery St., San Francisco. Phone 415-512-1111.

Stars—Executive chef Daniel DeLong delivers "new American" classics in this bustling brasserie, which claims to have the longest bar in San Francisco. Popular with opera-, symphony- and ballet-goers, this is a great site for people watching. Desserts are phenomenal. Monday-Friday 11:30 am-2:30 pm, Sunday and Monday 5:30-10 pm, Tuesday-Saturday 5:30-10:30 pm, late-supper menu Tuesday-Saturday 10:30-midnight. Reservations recommended. $$. Most major credit cards. Civic Center area. 555 Golden Gate Ave., San Francisco. Phone 415-861-7827.

ASIAN

Khan Toke Thai House—One of the city's first Thai restaurants, this Richmond institution continues to excel. A great introduction to Thai cuisine, particularly the six-course dinners. Seasoning is mild unless you ask for hot. Daily 5-10 pm. Informal dress. Reservations advised. $$. Most major credit cards. 5937 Geary Blvd. (at 23rd Street). Phone 415-668-6654.

Pot Sticker—In the heart of Chinatown, on a street lined with colorful balconies, this legendary place specializes in Mandarin cuisine, notably dumplings. Other favorites include the leek turnovers and, of course, pot stickers. Open daily 11 am-10 pm. $. Most major credit cards. 150 Waverly Place (Chinatown). Phone 415-397-9985.

Sam Woh's—This has been a classic, bare-bones Chinese diner for more than 30 years. Enter the narrow doorway and a disgruntled chef holding a butchered chicken yells at you and waves you up the stairway. A waiter throws a simple menu your way and tells you what to order. Don't worry—it's all an act. The thick rice pudding and chow fun noodles are excellent. Monday-Saturday 11 am-1 am, Sunday 11:30 am-9:30 pm. No reservations. $. No credit cards. 813 Washington St. Phone 415-982-0596.

Tommy Toy's—This combination of French and exquisite haute cuisine chinoise succeeds very well. The intimate dining room has a luxurious Chinese decor. Lunch Monday-Friday 11:30 am-2:30 pm and dinner daily 6-9:30 pm. Jacket and tie recommended for dinner. Reservations advisable. $$$. Most major credit cards. 655 Montgomery St. (across from the Transamerica Pyramid). Phone 415-397-4888.

BREAKFAST AND BRUNCH

Sears Fine Foods—There is usually a short wait to be seated at Sears, which attests to the popularity of this 60-year-old San Francisco breakfast institution. Waffles and Swedish pancakes are typically ordered smothered in whipped cream and fresh strawberries. Wednesday-Sunday 7 am-3:30 pm. Informal. Reservations accepted for six or more only; otherwise prepare to chat up your neighbors in line. $. No credit cards. 439 Powell St. (between Post and Sutter). Phone 415-986-1160.

FRENCH

Fleur de Lys—A fine example of French elegance and taste. Executive chef Hubert Keller creates dishes such as lamb with parsnips, anise and Merlot sauce; and squab with vegetables, capers and port wine sauce. Monday-Saturday two seatings—5:30-6 pm and 8-8:30 pm. Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards. 777 Sutter St. (Union Square). Phone 415-673-7779.

ITALIAN (INCLUDING PIZZERIAS)

Fior d'Italia—This, the oldest Italian restaurant in the U.S. (1886), has been tastefully refurbished and remains a welcome alternative to the city's "New Age" Italian joints. A great old-timer scene continues at the bar, while the lushly furnished restaurant provides excellent lasagna, tripe specials, steak sauteed with peppers and onions, and seven different preparations of veal, including osso buco. Check out the private dining rooms called The Godfather and the Tony Bennett Room. Open daily 11:30 am-10:30 pm. Coat and tie preferred. Reservations recommended. $$. Most major credit cards. 601 Union St. (North Beach). Phone 415-986-1886

Julius' Castle—The fabulous view from atop Telegraph Hill, candlelight and an ambience stemming from its 1922 beginnings have earned the Castle a reputation as the city's most romantic restaurant. Daily 5-10 pm. Jacket preferred. Reservations advised. $$$. Most major credit cards. 1541 Montgomery St. (adjacent to Coit Tower). Phone 415-362-3042.

Rose Pistola—The young and trendy mix with traditional Italian families eating Genoese- and Ligurian-style cioppino, local fish and wood-hearth braised dishes. Lunch daily 11:30 am-5 pm; dinner Sunday-Thursday 5:30-10:30 pm, Friday and Saturday 5:30-11:30 pm; late-night menu Sunday-Thursday 10:30-midnight, Friday and Saturday 11:30 pm-1 am. Most major credit cards. $$. 532 Columbus Ave. (North Beach). Phone 415-399-0499.

LATE NIGHT

Caffe Trieste—One of San Francisco's oldest coffeehouses, dating from the Beatnik era. It continues to attract bohemians who crave freshly baked Italian pastries with their cappuccino. Impromptu opera performances Saturday afternoons (arrive early for a table). Weekdays 7 am-11 pm, weekends 7 am-midnight. No reservations. $. No credit cards. 601 Vallejo St. (North Beach). Phone 415-392-6739.

Yuet Lee Seafood—Late-night owls prowling the streets of North Beach often find themselves in this brightly lit cafe on flashy Broadway Avenue. Prices are low, service is speedy and the Chinese hotpot specialties are some of the best in town. The salt-and-pepper squid is stir-fried fresh. Wednesday-Monday 11 am-3 am. Reservations suggested. $. No credit cards. 1300 Stockton St. (at Broadway). Phone 415-982-6020.

ADDITIONAL EXPERIENCES

Chez Panisse—With an upstairs cafe and a downstairs restaurant, this great American restaurant has something for everyone. Led by culinary visionary Alice Waters, who insists upon using only organically grown vegetables and chemical-free meats, Chez Panisse rarely serves the same dish twice on its prix-fixe menu. This citadel is well worth a trip across the Bay Bridge. Monday-Thursday 11:30 am-3 pm and 5-10 pm. Friday and Saturday 11:30 am-4 pm and 5-11:30 pm. Two seatings for the prix-fixe dinner at either 6-6:30 pm or 8:30-9:15 pm. Reservations required downstairs. Most major credit cards. $$-$$$$. 1517 Shattuck Ave. (in Berkeley). Phone 510-548-5525.

Cypress Club—Among the wildest-looking, yet upscale restaurants in San Francisco. Brilliant postmodern decor. Cutting-edge menu of California cuisine, with playful presentations. The wine list is perhaps unrivaled in the city. Live jazz nightly, valet parking. Sunday-Thursday 4:30-11 pm, Friday and Saturday to midnight. Coat and tie. Reservations necessary. $$$. Most major credit cards. 500 Jackson St. (Jackson Square). Phone 415-296-8555.

Delancy Street—Hospitable, inexpensive retreat serving a variety of ethnic American foods, including low-fat and vegetarian. On sunny days, the outdoor patio affords wonderful views of the Bay Bridge and the WW II Liberty ship Jeremy O'Brien moored nearby. Tuesday-Friday 11 am-11 pm, brunch and dinner Saturday and Sunday 10 am-11 pm. $-$$. Most major credit cards. 600 The Embarcadero (at Brannon). Phone 415-512-5179.

Greens—This was one of the first vegetarian restaurants in the nation and remains one of the very best. So many tastes and textures are offered that even the most stalwart meat eaters could be converted. Produce comes from the garden at the Zen Center in Marin County; fresh-baked breads are derived from the much-prized Tassajara Bread Book. Lunch Tuesday-Friday 11:30 am-2 pm, Saturday 11:30 am-2:30 pm, Sunday brunch 10 am-2 pm; dinner Monday-Friday 5:30-9:30 pm, Saturday 6-9 pm (prix fixe). Most major credit cards. $-$$. Fort Mason Building A (Buchanan and Marina). Phone 415-771-6222.

McCormick & Kuleto's—A seafood emporium in Ghirardelli Square with excellent views of Fisherman's Wharf and the bay beyond. Thirty varieties of fish and shellfish are prepared in 70 distinct ways. Monday-Saturday 11:30 am-11 pm, Sunday 10:30 am-11 pm. Informal dress. Reservations recommended. $$. Most major credit cards. 900 N. Point St. Phone 415-929-1730.

Millennium—Designed to appeal to the sophisticated vegetarian, this upscale restaurant offers a refined atmosphere and a richly rewarding meat-free menu. For dessert, try the tofu riccota or the chocolate midnight cake. Daily, 5-9:30 pm. Reservations suggested. $$. Most major credit cards. In the Abigail Hotel, 246 McAllister St. (at Larkin). Phone 415-487-9800.

Moose's—Few restaurants have retained as much popularity over the years as Moose's, on the east side of Washington Park in North Beach. The food—so fresh—and the lively atmosphere—lively, with a sense of comfort—make this the gathering place for San Francisco's movers and shakers. Try the seared king salmon, baby back ribs and risotto with gremolata. Also good for a late-evening drink at the bar. Daily 11:30 am-10 pm. Informal. Reservations suggested. $$. Most major credit cards. 1652 Stockton St. (between Union and Filbert). Phone 415-989-7800.