San Diego has a sophisticated, creative cuisine, with a special emphasis on fresh fish and other seafood from the Pacific, abundant produce from the fertile farmlands of Southern California and some of the world's best wines. Its restaurants are as varied as the food—Mexican, Continental, nouvelle American, grills, bistros and candlelit places with Old World ambience. Steak houses are the latest fashion.

Many ethnic eateries, including Italian, Thai and Chinese, are award winners as well. The historic Gaslamp Quarter downtown includes dozens of small restaurants on 4th and 5th Avenues that range from sophisticated to funky. Waterfront locations, including downtown's Embarcadero, Coronado's resorts, San Diego's beaches and the coast along La Jolla are natural settings for blue-ribbon seafood restaurants. La Jolla is also the place for elegant dining. If you crave Mexican food, follow the crowds to Old Town.

Among our favorites are George's at the Cove (new American in a lovely La Jolla setting) and the City Delicatessen and Bakery (New York-style deli—an ideal late-night stop on weekends).

If your adventures take you to Tijuana, the best authentic Mexican restaurant on Revolucion is La Especial, located down a stairway between Calles 3 and 4. Sanborn's, farther down Revolucion between Calles 8 and 9, is a clean, bright, pleasant restaurant and folk-art shop where you can escape the cacophonous street scene.

Below is a sampling of restaurants in town. Expect to pay within these general guidelines for a dinner for one, not including drinks, tax or tip: $ = less than US$10; $$ = US$10-$20; $$$ = US$21-$50; and $$$$ = more than US$50.

FAVORITE RESTAURANTS

Anthony's Star of the Sea Room—The waterfront locale, view and elegance (with dress code to match) make the atmosphere at this perennial award winner. A recent makeover gave this local legend a smashing new look. The new chef revamped the menu to update old seafood favorites with a dash of Asian flair. Daily 5:30-10:30 pm. Jackets recommended. $$$. Downtown. 555 Harbor Dr., San Diego. Phone 619-232-7408.

Belgian Lion—This restaurant is almost a secret, tucked away on a residential street, but you can't miss the charming Swiss exterior. Family run and owned, with Papa Don cooking his French-Belgian food and Mom and the kids serving. Expect Don to come out and chat. Specialties include cassoulet, turnip souffle and confit of duck. Thursday-Saturday 5-10 pm. $$-$$$$. 2265 Bacon St., Ocean Beach, San Diego. Phone 619-223-2700.

Blue Point Coastal Cuisine—Fresh seafood served in a setting reminiscent of a 1940s supper club make this one of the more elegant restaurants in town. Flavors offer a blend of Asian and Latin flair: sea bass steeped in miso, oysters with jalapeno-laced tartar sauce and swordfish with salsa. Locals know to save room for a decadent dessert. Monday-Thursday 5-10 pm. $$-$$$$. Downtown. 565 5th Ave., San Diego. Phone 619-233-6623.

Laurel—Chef Doug Hall continues to woo a sophisticated crowd at this elegant dining room with an urbane ambience and French regional Mediterranean cuisine. Feast on grilled boar, roasted guinea hen and duck confit. Sunday-Thursday 5-10 pm. $$-$$$$. Just north of downtown hotels. 505 Laurel St., San Diego. Phone 619-239-2222.

Mille Fleurs—A menu featuring locally grown produce paired with venison, lamb, quail and other haute cuisine specialties make this spot worth a drive 25 minutes north of downtown. The extensive wine list is another draw. Warmly elegant dining room, reminiscent of a French country inn. The piano bar is a great place to relax with an after-dinner cognac. Lunch Monday-Friday 11:30 am-2 pm; dinner nightly 6-9:30 pm. $$$. 6009 Paseo Delicias, Rancho Santa Fe, San Diego. Phone 858-756-3085.

Roppongi—This hot spot is packed on Saturday nights with locals who come to sip martinis and sample the menu of flavorful "Asian tapas." You can order entrees, but the tapas are the way to go if you want to taste the array of what Roppongi has to offer. Don't miss the Dungeness crab napoleon. Monday-Friday 11:30 am-11 pm. Reservations are a good idea on busy weekends. $$-$$$$. 875 Prospect St., La Jolla, San Diego. Phone 858-551-5252.

WineSellar & Brasserie—In the middle of an industrial park, this award winner has a wine list that impresses even the connoisseurs of the industry. Contemporary French cooking. Retail wine shop on premises. Tuesday-Friday 5:30-10 pm, Saturday 11:30 am-2 pm and 6-10 pm, Sunday 5:30-9 pm. Reservations recommended. $$$. North on Highway 805, Off Mira Mesa Boulevard, just northeast of La Jolla. You can't find it without directions, so get them when you call for reservations. 9550 Waples St., Suite 115, San Diego. Phone 858-450-9576.

LOCAL AND REGIONAL SPECIALTIES

Bahia—This clean, serviceable cafe in a nondescript location serves up the best Mexican food in town. The enormous US$3.50 burrito supreme, with either chicken or beef, has the rice and beans tucked inside. Worth a trip to North Park. Monday-Sunday 9 am-11 pm. $. No credit cards. Next to the 7-11 market. 1985 El Cajon Blvd., San Diego. Phone 619-542-0540.

Chameleon Cafe—Pacific Rim flavors meet Southwestern zest on the menu at this popular Coronado eatery. Chef-owner Ken Irvine dishes out delightful pot stickers, seafood dishes and Asian-inspired noodles. Check out the creative martini list in the restaurant's groovy Lizard Lounge bar. Monday-Sunday 11 am-2 pm and 5-10 pm. $$. 1301 Orange Ave., Coronado, San Diego. Phone 619-437-6677.

Chilango's—This unpretentious place serves very interesting, healthy food from Mexico City and the Oaxaca region. Try the huarache, a thick cornmeal pancake topped with beans and lettuce, or a tamale with mole sauce. Monday-Thursday 10 am-9 pm, Friday and Saturday 10 am-10 pm. $. No credit cards. About a 10-minute drive from downtown in the Hillcrest neighborhood. 143 University Ave., San Diego. Phone 619-294-8646.

Epazote's—Check out the Southwestern appetizer list that's long enough for several meals. We liked the homemade tamales, coconut curry shrimp and Navajo flatbread pizza. Spit-roasted meats as well. Noisy but fun, and the terrace has a view. Monday-Friday 11 am-11 pm, Saturday 10:30 am-11:30 pm, Sunday 10:30 am-10 pm. $-$$. In the Del Mar Plaza.. 1555 Camino del Mar, Del Mar, San Diego. Phone 858-259-9966.

Fish Market—A multiple award winner, this place offers a rather noisy but fun family ambience downstairs. The quieter and more costly top floor has a sea view. The fish is great and so are the oysters. Daily 11 am-10 pm. $$. Downtown on the waterfront. 750 N. Harbor Dr., San Diego. Phone 619-232-3474.

Hops! Bistro and Brewery—Such good Continental food you won't believe you're in a brewery. The beer is wonderful, too. Try the salmon with penne and the grilled chicken salad. Daily 11 am-midnight. $$. In the University Towne Center. 4353 La Jolla Village Dr., San Diego. Phone 858-587-6677.

Point Loma Seafoods—Locals line up 10 deep at this popular waterside fish market. The specialty is fresh catch from local waters. Best bets: clam chowder, decadent fish sandwiches, ceviche and fish taquitos. Order at the counter and enjoy your feast at one of the outdoor tables or inside the bare-bones dining room. Monday 10:30 am-6 pm, Tuesday-Saturday 10:30 am-7 pm, Sunday noon-6 pm. $. 2805 Emerson St., Point Loma, San Diego. Phone 619-223-1109.

Rainwater's—Known for its prime steaks, this intimate spot is a popular place for couples before or after the theater. Coat and tie for men preferred but not required. Monday-Friday 11:30 am-midnight, Saturday 5 pm-midnight, Sunday 5-11 pm. $$$-$$$$. Downtown.. 1202 Kettner Blvd., San Diego. Phone 619-233-5757.

Sammy's California Woodfired Pizza—Creativity can do wonders to a staple food. Brick ovens turn out dozens of interesting toppings, such as duck and smoked chicken, on a special crust. Three locations: 702 Pearl, La Jolla, phone 858-456-5222; 770 4th Ave. (downtown), phone 619-230-8888; 1620 Camino de la Reina, Mission Valley, phone 619-298-8222. Monday-Thursday 11:30 am-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 11:30 am-11 pm. $. San Diego. Phone 858-456-5222.

AMERICAN

Corvette Diner—Named for that ever-popular Chevrolet car, it's a '50s place with the best burgers and shakes in town. Try the homemade meat loaf and a root beer float. Bubblegum comes with the check. Monday-Thursday and Sunday 11 am-11 pm, Friday and Saturday 11 am-midnight. $. In the Hillcrest neighborhood at 3946 5th Ave. (about a 10-minute drive from downtown), phone 619-542-1476.

Kono's—Inexpensive eateries line the boardwalk in Mission Beach. One of the best is Kono's, a tiny cafe known for its great breakfasts and burgers. Surf posters cover the walls, surf videos play on TV and most of the patrons look as though they've just come from the beach (which they probably have). Expect to stand in line on weekends. Open daily for breakfast and lunch; no reservations; $; no credit cards; 704 Garnet Ave., phone 619-483-1669.

ASIAN

Bali—Serves Indonesian dishes—including rijstafel, a sampling of sides served with white rice. Open Friday-Sunday for lunch and dinner, dinner nightly; reservations accepted; $$-$$$; most major credit cards accepted; 17660 Fay Ave., La Jolla, phone 619-454-4540.

Jasmine—This 800-seat Chinese restaurant is a touch of Hong Kong in San Diego. The specialty is seafood—so fresh that diners can select their catch from the tank. Try the dim sum: Just hail the servers as they pass with carts piled high with shrimp dumplings, vegetable pot stickers and other treats. Daily 10 am-11 pm. $-$$. 4609 Convoy St., Kearny Mesa, phone 619-268-0888.

Panda Inn—This is the most popular Chinese restaurant downtown, with wonderful service and an elegant setting. Hunan lamb, sweet pungent shrimp and moo shu pork are favorites. Monday-Sunday 10 am-10 pm. $-$$. 506 Horton Plaza, Upper Level, phone 619-233-7800.

Star of India—One of the best north Indian restaurants in the area. It offers a delectable (and inexpensive) lunch buffet of curries and salads. Open Monday-Friday for lunch and dinner, Saturday and Sunday for brunch and dinner; reservations accepted; $-$$ lunch, $$-$$$ dinner; most major credit cards accepted; 1000 Prospect St., La Jolla, phone 619-459-3355.

BREAKFAST AND BRUNCH

City Delicatessen and Bakery—This New York-style deli in the heart of Hillcrest, San Diego's most cosmopolitan neighborhood, would be right at home in the Big Apple. Favorites include lox and omelettes, whitefish and eggs, as well as pancakes and corned beef hash. Open daily 7 am-midnight, weekends 7 am-2 am. Bakery on premises turns out a variety of pastries and to-die-for New York cheesecake, making it an ideal late-night stop. $. In the Hillcrest neighborhood at 535 University Ave. (about a 10-minute drive from downtown), phone 619-295-2747.

Hob-Nob Hill Restaurant—Movers and shakers meet here daily on Bankers Hill to be fortified by some of the best breakfasts in town. Try the filet mignon and onions with eggs or any of the assorted omelettes with Italian sausages. A hangout for judges, lawyers and politicos. Breakfast served all day. Be advised that lines form outside early on Sunday. Open daily 7 am-9 pm. $. 2271 1st Ave. (about a five-minute drive from downtown hotels), phone 619-239-8176.

Mission Cafe and Coffee Shop—Great for breakfast. Start your day with blueberry pancakes with swirls of fruit puree or scrambled-egg burritos with black beans. $-$$. Two locations: 3795 Mission Blvd., Mission Beach (15 minutes from downtown), phone 858-488-9060, daily 7 am-4 pm; and 2801 University Ave., North Park, phone 619-220-8992, daily 7 am-3 pm and 5-10 pm.

DINNER THEATER

Mystery Cafe Theatre—Lively, original and spoofy interactive whodunit plays are performed between courses at Imperial House Restaurant. Friday and Saturday curtains at 8 pm. Dinner and show are US$39.50-$43.50. Reservations required. In the Hillcrest neighborhood at 505 Kalmia St. (about a 10-minute drive from downtown), phone 619-544-1600.

GREEK

Athens Market—For Greek spanakopita, spicy loukanikos sausage and succulent lamb, try Athens Market, near the Gaslamp Quarter. Open Monday-Friday for lunch, nightly for dinner; reservations recommended; $-$$; most major credit cards accepted; 109 W. F St., phone 619-234-1955.

ITALIAN (INCLUDING PIZZERIAS)

Fio's—The fabulous interior of a Roman courtyard plus classy homemade pasta, bread and desserts. Local professionals adore this place for after-work drinks, chatty meals in the bar and romantic dinners. Monday-Thursday 5:30-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 5-11:30 pm, Sunday 5-10 pm. $$-$$$. 801 5th Ave. (downtown), phone 619-234-3467.

Osteria Panevino—One of the Gaslamp Quarter's wildly popular spots, serving superb Northern Italian fare in a Tuscan farmhouse-style atmosphere. Homemade pasta and brick-oven-baked pizzas are cornerstones of the menu. For a memorable meal, try veal chop arrabiata or osso buco. Daily 11:30 am-11:30 pm. $$. 772 5th Ave. (downtown), phone 619-595-7959.

MEXICAN

Alfonso's—Its outdoor patio is the perfect spot for margaritas and carne asada burritos. Open daily for lunch and dinner; reservations accepted for indoor dining only; $-$$; most major credit cards accepted; 1251 Prospect St., La Jolla, phone 619-454-2232.

Casa de Pico—Mariachis, fishbowl-sized drinks and a festive outdoor cafe attract enormous crowds to Casa de Pico in the Bazaar del Mundo of Old Town. The Mexican dishes are toned down for gringo palates and the quality of the food is unpredictable, but that doesn't discourage locals and tourists from congregating over huge platters of nachos, chimichangas and burritos. Locals avoid the long lines by snagging one of the cocktails-only tables along the walkways—you can't order an entree there, but you can get a hefty platter of nachos. Open daily for lunch and dinner; no reservations; $-$$; most major credit cards accepted; Calhoun Street in Bazaar del Mundo, Old Town, phone 619-296-3267.

Old Town Mexican Cafe—If tacos, enchiladas, guacamole and icy margaritas sound good, head to the Old Town Mexican Cafe. The lines can extend way out the front door, but the food is worth the wait—and you can watch the cooks slapping fresh tortillas into shape at the windowfront tortilleria. We especially like their carnitas—marinated pork chunks served with rice, beans, tortillas and condiments. Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner; no reservations; $-$$; most major credit cards accepted; 2489 San Diego Ave., phone 619-297-4330.

SEAFOOD

Anthony's Fish Grotto—A downscale version of the Star of the Sea—good fish and chips, salads and seafood entrees. The lines can be long when the place fills with office workers at lunch. Open for lunch Monday-Saturday, dinner nightly; reservations recommended; $; most major credit cards accepted; 1360 N. Harbor Dr., phone 619-232-5103.

STEAK HOUSES

Morton's of Chicago—Among the best steak houses, satisfying hungry diners with tender, aged steaks, superb salmon, veal chops and excellent side dishes, including creamy fresh spinach. The dining room has a dark, clubby feeling with cushy booths and candlelight. Downtown. Open nightly for dinner; reservations recommended; $$$$; most major credit cards accepted; 285 J St., phone 619-696-3369.

ADDITIONAL EXPERIENCES

Qwigg's Bar & Grill—A real find in Ocean Beach. Qwigg's is perfect for sunset dinners overlooking the O.B. Pier and beach. The menu is close to perfect, too: seafood, sushi, pastas, beef and great burgers. You can stop in for drinks and a light dinner of heaping salads, fried calamari and gourmet pizza in the bar area (where the view is as good as from the dining tables) or join the crowd at the sushi bar. Open Monday-Friday for lunch and dinner, Saturday for dinner, Sunday for brunch and dinner; reservations accepted; $$-$$$; most major credit cards accepted; 5083 Santa Monica Ave., phone 619-222-1101.

Trattoria Acqua—Serves superb Mediterranean dishes. We especially like the osso buco, seafood pasta and inexpensive sandwiches on fresh focaccia. Several dining rooms surround a courtyard and gazebo draped in twinkling lights. Dress is classy casual. Open Monday-Friday for lunch and dinner, Saturday and Sunday for brunch and dinner; reservations accepted; $$; most major credit cards accepted; 1298 Prospect St., La Jolla, phone 619-454-0709.