San Antonio is a Tex-Mex mecca, and natives have been known to experience withdrawal symptoms if away from their favorite eatery for very long. Tex-Mex is a purely borderland creation—ask for a burrito in the interior of Mexico, and the waiter will look at you with a blank stare (or, worse yet, think you're ordering a small piece of donkey meat). The best tacos still come from street vendors who unpretentiously roll out fresh tortillas before your eyes, especially during Fiesta or other outdoor festivals.

Even if you were allergic to salsa and chips, you wouldn't starve. All that ranching in South Texas has yielded some hefty meat specialties: charbroiled steaks, chicken-fried steak (steak dipped in batter, fried and smothered in gravy—better than it sounds) and barbecue. Also, the city has attracted many cultures to its fold, including German and French restaurateurs during the 1830s and 1840s and, later, Chinese-Mexican cooks (brought in 1917 by Black Jack Pershing—he'd gone after Pancho Villa in Mexico). More recently, Thai and Vietnamese have immigrated to the city and opened their own restaurants. Some of the restaurants along the River Walk even offer barge charters, so you can dine while floating down the river. San Antonio may have few world-class restaurants, but it does have an extraordinary variety of food.

Below is a sampling of restaurants in town. Expect to pay within these general guidelines, based on the cost of a dinner for one, not including drinks, tax, or tip: $ = less than US$10; $$ = US$10-$20; $$$ = US$21-$50; and $$$$ = more than US$50.

FAVORITE RESTAURANTS

Boudro's—Serves up an inspired marriage of Cajun and Southwestern cuisine. Excellent fish entrees and desserts, good wine cellar. Widely considered the best on the River Walk, and crowds on weekend nights will convince you of its popularity. Sunday-Thursday 11 am-11 pm, Friday and Saturday to midnight. Reservations recommended on weekends. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. 421 E. Commerce, San Antonio. Phone 210-224-8484.

Cafe Soleil—This restaurant and bar is filled with French accents and warm hospitality. We like the fireplace in the living room. Menu is authentic Provencal cuisine. There's an extensive wine list and you can partake of cigars in the bar. Tuesday-Friday 11 am-2 pm and 5-10 pm. Bar open Tuesday-Friday to 2 am. $$. 5800 Broadway, San Antonio. Phone 210-805-8866.

Carranza's—The house favorite in this two-story, limestone gem is original Texas mesquite barbecue, but the menu ranges from steaks to Italian to well-regarded fish and seafood entrees. Lunch Monday-Friday 10 am-2 pm; dinner Monday-Thursday 5-10 pm, Friday and Saturday to 11 pm. $-$$. Most major credit cards. 701 Austin St. (downtown), San Antonio. Phone 210-223-0903.

Francesca's at Sunset—This fine restaurant in the Westin La Cantera Resort is open only for dinner. Nationally renowned chef Mark Miller specializes in Southwestern cuisine with Tex-Mex and Creole influences. Try the game dishes. Dinner only, Tuesday-Saturday. $$-$$$. 16641 La Cantera Blvd., San Antonio. Phone 210-558-6500 The hotel will connect you..

L'Etoile, The Star—The menu includes first-rate French classical and nouvelle cuisine. A discounted early-bird dinner menu is offered 5:30-6:30 pm. Lunch Monday-Saturday 11:30 am-2:30 pm; dinner Monday-Thursday 5:30-10 pm, Friday and Saturday to 11 pm. Reservations recommended. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. 6106 Broadway (near Albany Street in Alamo Heights), San Antonio. Phone 210-826-4551.

Water Street Oyster Bar—The waterfront warehouse look is the same as Brad Lomax's first Oyster Bar on Water Street in Corpus Christi. Try any of the fresh, well-grilled seafood and sample such staples as the tangy walnut salad dressing and chocolate chip cheesecake. Out-of-towners who pass through San Antonio regularly make it a point to stop there. Sunday-Thursday 11 am-10:30 pm, Friday and Saturday 11 am-11:30 pm. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. 7500 Broadway (at Nacogdoches, a few blocks up from the Alamo Quarry), San Antonio. Phone 210-829-4853.

LOCAL AND REGIONAL SPECIALTIES

Bob's Smokehouse—Bob’s makes a fine package of barbecued meats, which come with buckets of sauce, ample white bread and plenty of side dishes. The smoked pork shoulder can’t be beat. Ordering takeout may be preferable, since the dining room can get a bit smoky. Monday-Thursday 11 am-7:30 pm, Friday and Saturday 11 am-8:30 pm. Closed Sunday. $-$$. Most major credit cards. 5145 Fredericksburg Rd., San Antonio. Phone 210-344-8401.

Earl Abel's—This eatery is a San Antonio tradition. The house favorite is a toss-up between the chicken-fried steak and melt-in-your-mouth fried chicken. Burgers, steaks, sandwiches and renowned homemade desserts are also on the menu. Try a Texas treat—some Blue Bell ice cream. Open daily 6:30 am-1 am. $$. Most major credit cards. 4200 Broadway (at Hildebrand, across from Incarnate Word College), San Antonio. Phone 210-822-3358.

Pico de Gallo—This is where all the locals in the know go for incredible Tex-Mex offerings—cabrito (roasted goat) and fresh-squeezed limonada among them. Expect to wait—but it's worth it. The band is quite good, nonstandard mariachi. Monday-Thursday 7 am-10 pm, Friday and Saturday to 2 am, Sunday 8 am-10 pm. $. Most major credit cards. 111 S. Leona (downtown, west of I-10), San Antonio. Phone 210-225-6060.

Schilo's German Delicatessen—The downtown lunch crowd flocks to this deli with its authentic, old-style decor. They serve superb split-pea soup, homemade root beer and top-drawer cheesecake. Good imported beer. German standards are served for dinner. Monday-Saturday 7 am-8:30 pm. $. Most major credit cards. 424 E. Commerce (above the River Walk), San Antonio. Phone 210-223-6692.

Stockyards Cafe—At Stockyards Cafe, find a taste of the Old West in both food and ambience. Texas' oldest continuously open cafe (since 1889) surrounds you with western decor and artifacts. Chicken-fried steak is a favorite, but fried catfish, chicken and pork chops are available as well. The ample breakfast menu includes breakfast tacos. On Mondays and Wednesdays, meander over to the Union Stockyards to view the cattle auction (open to the public). Auction begins at 8:30 or 9 am and continues until all cows are sold. Monday-Friday 9 am-2 pm. $$. Most major credit cards. 1716 S. San Marcos St. (one mile south of downtown, just west of the I-10/I-35 Highway), San Antonio. Phone 210-271-9471.

Teka Molina—This is the best spot for Tex-Mex in the city. Try their wonderful tortilla soup with poblano chilies and cilantro. They offer very affordable plates or you can order a la carte and mix and match to your taste. Monday-Friday 7:30 am-7 pm. $. No credit cards. 2403 N. St. Mary's St., San Antonio. Phone 210-735-5471.

Zuni Grill—Known for innovative Southwestern dishes and excellent table sauces. Wheelchair accessible. Monday-Thursday 8 am-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 8 am-11 pm. $$$. Most major credit cards. 223 Losoya., San Antonio. Phone 210-227-0864.

AMERICAN

410 Diner—The blackboard full of vegetable dishes may tempt you towards the veggie plate, but don't overlook the very good grilled snapper. Entrees are US$2 off on Tuesday nights. Sunday-Thursday 11 am-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 11 am-10:30 pm. $$. Most major credit cards. 8315 Broadway. Phone 210-822-6246.

Anaqua Grill—This new, somewhat upscale purveyor of American regional cuisine is situated in a country setting amid oaks, fountains, strolling pheasants and Texas limestone. In addition to their solid lunch and dinner menus, there's a sensational Sunday brunch. Wheelchair accessible. Monday-Thursday 11 am-2 pm and 6-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 11 am-2 pm and 6-11 pm, Sunday 11 am-2 pm and 6:30-11 pm. Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards. Plaza San Antonio, 555 S. Alamo. Phone 210-229-1000.

Pig Stands—A chain of 24-hour coffee shops, popular since the '30s. If you can't get there for breakfast, the chicken-fried steak for lunch or dinner is among the best in town. At the Broadway location, where the 70-year-old neon Pig Sandwich sign still hangs, you can hobnob with classic car owners and admire their autos on Friday nights. $. 801 S. Presa (near King William Historic District), phone 210-227-1691; 3054 Rigsby Ave., phone 210-333-8231; and 1508 Broadway (north of downtown), phone 210-222-2794.

Rey Willy's Hamburgers y Mas—Burger joint known for its excellent fries and thin, juicy burgers evocative of the finest backyard cookouts. Some parts of the menu swerve to the Far East; others hover dead center. Monday 4-10 pm, Tuesday-Thursday 11 am-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 11 am-11 pm. Closed Sunday. $. Most major credit cards. 1014 S. Alamo (at Beauregard). Phone 210-271-3103.

The Tower—Located atop the Tower of the Americas, this swanky joint boasts a commanding view that overlooks much of San Antonio. The menu offers an array of steaks, prime rib, seafood and more. 11 am-2 pm and 5:30-10 pm. $$$. Most major credit cards. Hemisfair Park. Phone 210-223-3101. http://www.toweroftheamericas.com.

ASIAN

Golden Wok—The dim sum has an enthusiastic following. Dinner really shines with offerings such as eggplant stuffed with shrimp pate. Peking duck is available daily. Wheelchair accessible. Monday-Friday 11 am-10 pm, Saturday 11:30 am-10 pm, Sunday 11:30 am-9 pm. $$$. Most major credit cards. 8822 Wurzbach Rd. Phone 210-615-8282.

Hung Fong—A long-established favorite for lunch, known for the neon flags flying on the ceiling. The house specialty is spicy lobster Sichuan, but the lemon chicken is tops. Sunday-Thursday 11 am-10 pm, Friday and Saturday to 11 pm. $$. Across from the Witte Museum on Broadway at Queen Anne. Phone 210-822-9211.

Mencius Gourmet Hunan—Prepare for cut-above Chinese, including sumptuous lamb in garlic sauce. Lunch Monday-Friday 11 am-2:15 pm, Saturday and Sunday 11:30 am-2:15 pm; dinner Sunday-Tuesday 5-9:30 pm, Wednesday-Saturday 5-10 pm. $$, most major credit cards. 7959 Fredericksburg Rd. (near the Baptist Medical Center, entrance on Medical Drive), phone 210-615-1288.

Niki’s Tokyo Inn—The outside looks like a rustic Japanese inn, while inside the scene is serenely cozy. The sushi and sashimi are impeccably fresh. Delicious soups and cucumber salads. Tuesday-Thursday 5:30-10:30 pm, Friday and Saturday 5:30-11 pm. Closed Sunday and Monday. $$$. Most major credit cards. 819 W. Hildebrand (at Blanco). Phone 210-736-5471.

Sakura—Sushi bar and restaurant featuring authentic Japanese cuisine with traditional foods/classic styles. Try their original Texas roll and Spurs roll. Got a birthday? Go for the sushi birthday cake. Tuesday-Friday 11 am-2 pm, Saturday noon-10 pm, Sunday noon-9 pm. Closed Monday. $$$. Most major credit cards. 6565 Babcock Rd. Phone 210-641-2805.

BREAKFAST AND BRUNCH

Cafe Latino—A small, offbeat cafe with great breakfast and lunch menus, good Central American coffee, and a unique atmosphere comprised of Latino books and paintings. Wheelchair accessible. Monday-Friday 6:30 am-2 pm. Closed Saturday and Sunday. $. Most major credit cards. 1621 N. Main. Phone 210-220-1845.

CONTINENTAL

Cafe Anansi—Chef Paul Smith steers the course with sophisticated French-, Spanish- and Carribean-influenced cuisine. Tuesday-Thursday 5-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 5-11 pm. Closed Sunday. $$$-$$$$. Most major credit cards. 517 E. Woodlawn. Phone 210-732-4775.

FRENCH

Le Reve—Haute cuisine emerges from the tiny kitchen of this intimate, minimalist treasure. The very good salade Francaise is topped with a tiny poached quail egg and a creamy goat-cheese-laced vinaigrette. The desserts are exceptional, too. Flowers and sheer curtains enhance ambience; the view of the River Walk doesn't hurt, either. The dress code prohibits jeans and requires men to wear collared shirts. Tuesday-Saturday 5-10 pm. Closed Sunday and Monday. Reservations required. $$$$. Most major credit cards. 152 E. Pecan (at N. St. Mary’s). Phone 210-212-2221.

GREEK

Demo’s—Demo’s Greek exuberance is catching. Greek salads and sandwiches are popular lunch items, while fish plaki and Greek macaroni casserole make solid dinner choices. Monday-Thursday 11 am-9 pm, Friday and Saturday 11 am-10 pm, Sunday noon-8 pm. $. Most major credit cards. Two locations: 7115 Blanco (phone 210-342-2772 ) and 2501 N. St. Mary’s (phone 210-732-7777).

ITALIAN (INCLUDING PIZZERIAS)

Massimo—Pricey but well worth it, especially the pasta entrees. Don’t miss the rigatoni, which comes topped with a boisterous, eggplant-based vegetarian sauce. The atmosphere is dignified and congenial. Monday-Friday 11:30 am-2:30 pm and 5:30-10:30 pm, Saturday 5:30-10:30 pm, Sunday 5-10 pm. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$. 4263 N.W. Loop 410 (at Babcock). Phone 210-342-8556.

Naples—For many years, Naples was a San Antonio institution. When it closed, nothing in the restaurant scene seemed the same. Naples has reopened, and the Brachizio family tradition of fine Italian dining continues. The dinner menu is extensive, and the eggplant parmigiana is still superb. Live entertainment on Friday and Saturday evenings. Monday-Thursday 11 am-2:30 pm and 5-10 pm, Friday 11 am-2:30 pm and 5-11 pm, Saturday 5-11 pm. $-$$. 4003 Broadway, phone 210-822-7611.

Paesano's—A classic Italian warhorse: tried, true and sure to please. Veal dishes, red snapper and famed Shrimp Paesano are first rate. $$, most major credit cards. The River Walk location is open Sunday-Thursday 11 am-10 pm, Friday and Saturday to 11:30 pm. 111 W. Crockett (South Bank Complex), phone 210-227-2782. The northside restaurant is open Monday-Saturday 11 am-11 pm, Sunday to 10 pm. 555 E. Basse (between Broadway and Highway 281 in Village on the Green, near the Alamo Quarry Market), phone 210-828-5191.

Pardos Restaurant and Bar—Pardos provides delectable shrimp in tequila sauce as well as distinguished pasta dishes. Monday-Thursday 11 am-10 pm, Friday 11 am-11 pm, Saturday 5-11 pm. Live music (great jazz) Wednesday-Saturday. $$, most major credit cards. 700 N. St. Mary's St., phone 210-228-9999.

LATE NIGHT

Mi Tierra Cafe and Bakery—Since 1941 this 24-hour Mexican restaurant has been pleasing crowds nonstop. Wide menu with all the standards. Mariachi music nightly. $, most major credit cards. 218 Produce Row (off Dolorosa Street on the west side of downtown in Market Square), phone 210-225-1262.

LATIN AMERICAN

Los Barrios—Both The New York Times and Esquire magazine have raved about this home-style restaurant. From their classic enchilada assortment to the South American churrascaria with pesto, you can't go wrong. Monday-Thursday 10 am-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 10 am-midnight, Sunday 9 am-10 pm. $-$$. Most major credit cards. 4223 Blanco, phone 210-732-6071.

MEXICAN

Casa Rio—In business for more than 50 years, Casa Rio serves up its standard Tex-Mex comfort food with a side of Texas history. On the River Walk, it offers barge dining as well as tables riverside. Daily 11 am-10 pm, to 11 pm in summer. Closed Sundays in January. $, most major credit cards. 430 E. Commerce, phone 210-225-6718.

El Mirador—Located at the entrance to the King William Historic District, this watering spot is famous locally for its Saturday breakfasts and "Saturday soups"—Azteca and Xochitl. Breakfast and lunch Monday-Saturday 6 am-3 pm; dinner Tuesday-Thursday 5-9 pm, Friday and Saturday 5-10 pm. Sunday brunch 9 am-3 pm. $-$$. Most major credit cards. 722 St. Mary's St., phone 210-225-9444.

La Calesa—Terrific shrimp, chicken and steak as prepared in the Yucatan and southern regions of Mexico. Try the chiles rellenos. Family-run, unpretentious. Monday-Thursday 11 am-9:30 pm, Friday to 10:30 pm; Saturday 11:30 am-10:30 pm; Sunday 11:30 am-9 pm. $, most major credit cards. 2103 E. Hildebrand (near Broadway, just north of downtown), phone 210-822-4475.

Tomatillos—Named for the small, green Mexican tomatoes used in sauces, it's no surprise that sauces are this restaurant's claim to fame. Enjoy a combination of traditional Tex-Mex or try the carnitas, a specialty from the Mexican interior. The pork for this dish is boiled then fried, resulting in meat that's both crispy and tender. There's a vegetarian menu as well. Sunday-Thursday 11 am-10 pm, Saturday and Sunday to 11 pm. $$, most major credit cards. 3210 Broadway (near downtown), phone 210-824-3005.

SEAFOOD

Landry's—Seafood prepared with style and taste, as well as steak, chicken, pasta and salads. The fried calamari appetizer is especially good. The space is comfortable and the service friendly. Sunday-Thursday 11 am-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 11 am-11 pm. $$$. Most major credit cards. 600 E. Market St. (across from Rivercenter Mall). Phone 210-229-1010.

STEAK HOUSES

Barn Door—A longstanding San Antonio favorite with rustic decor. Wheelchair accessible. Monday-Thursday 11 am-2 pm and 5-10 pm, Friday 11 am-2 pm and 5-10:30 pm, Saturday 5-10:30 pm, Sunday 4-9 pm. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$. Most major credit cards. 8400 N. New Braunfels, near Loop 410. Phone 210-824-0116.

ADDITIONAL EXPERIENCES

Liberty Bar—The slanting, century-old building (it only looks like it's going to fall down) provides a great context for enjoying such specialties as quail or redfish grilled over mesquite charcoal. Menu includes good pasta and vegetarian entrees, fine homemade breads and desserts. Kitchen serves Monday-Thursday 11:30 am-10:30 pm, Friday and Saturday 11:30 am-midnight, Sunday 10:30 am-10:30 pm. $-$$, most major credit cards. North of downtown, just off Highway 281 at 328 E. Josephine St., phone 210-227-1187.

Los Patios—Los Patios, now offering a Sunday buffet, has two restaurants nestled in 18 acres/7 hectares on Salado Creek. At the Gazebo, with its delightful patio, you'll find the "ladies-and-gentlemen-who-lunch" crowd dining on wonderful salads of chicken or shrimp. The Brazier, overlooking the creek, offers heartier fare of mesquite-grilled steak, chicken and seafood. After lunch, walk off your repast by browsing through the myriad shops on the grounds. Monday-Saturday 11:30 am-2:30 pm, Tuesday-Friday 6-9 pm and Sunday buffet 11 am-2:30 pm. Reservations required. $-$$. 2015 N.E. Loop 410 (take the Starcrest Drive exit). Phone 210-655-6171.