At one time, Salt Lake cuisine was characterized by all-you-can-eat restaurants serving bland food. No longer. Today they reflect a cosmopolitan and ethnic diversity difficult to match in any city of comparable size. Restaurant choices include a range of traditional, trendy and multinational cuisines.

Note: Utah's liquor laws have eased considerably. You may now order drinks with meals in restaurants. Nonexclusive private clubs serving drinks with or without meals charge a nominal temporary membership fee (usually around US$5). Purchases can now be made in state liquor stores using checks or major credit cards.

Below is a sampling of restaurants in town. Expect to pay within these general guidelines, based on the cost of a dinner for one, not including drinks, tax or tip: $ = less than US$10; $$ = US$10-$20; $$$ = US$21-$50; $$$$ = more than US$50.

FAVORITE RESTAURANTS

Caffe Molise—Delicious downtown convenience: Italian cuisine inspired by the rustic Molise region. Imported pastas, fresh sauces, seafood, decadent desserts. Try the popular involtine di pollo (chicken stuffed with asiago, prosciutto and sun-dried tomatoes). In the summer, dine on an intimate patio. Art changes monthly. Jazz on Friday nights. Lunch Monday-Friday 11:30 am-2 pm, dinner Monday-Thursday 5:30-9 pm, Friday and Saturday 5:30-10 pm. Reservations recommended on weekends. $$. Most major credit cards. 55 W. 100 South. Phone 801-364-8833

Fresco Italian Cafe—An intimate, romantic setting for superb Italian dinners. Try, for instance, the grilled polenta cake with cheese and wild mushroom topping, or the lamb with garlic and rosemary. Monday-Saturday 5-10 pm, Sunday 5-9 pm. Reservations recommended. $-$$$. 1513 S. 1500 East (ten minutes' drive from downtown). Phone 801-486-1300.

The New Yorker—Sophisticated ambience and consistently well-prepared dishes at a private-club restaurant downtown. (You can, however, purchase a temporary club membership, lasting for two weeks, for US$10.) The seafood, fresh fish and desserts are especially good—and the tenderloin draws loyal customers back again and again. Complimentary shuttle to and from ballet, opera and symphony. Elegant dining room open Monday-Friday 11:30 am-2:30 pm, Monday-Thursday 5:30-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 5:30-11 pm. The casual cafe is open Monday-Thursday for lunch 11:30 am-2:30 pm and for dinner 2:30-11 pm, Friday 2:30-11:30 pm, Saturday 5:30-11:30 pm. Reservations accepted for the dining room only. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. 60 Market St., Salt Lake City. Phone 801-363-0166.

Oasis Cafe—Relax while enjoying well-prepared vegetarian and seafood dishes. Tuesday is International Night, with a five-course meal reflecting cuisine of a different country each week. Monday-Friday 7 am-10 pm, Saturday and Sunday 8 am-11 pm. $-$$. Most major credit cards. 151 S. 500 East. Phone 801-322-0404.

LOCAL AND REGIONAL SPECIALTIES

Lamb's Restaurant—This old-shoe restaurant, oldest in Salt Lake, has been a favorite downtown hangout for newspaper and business personalities since 1919. All-American breakfasts of eggs Benedict or Utah mountain trout, for example; lunches and dinners of barbecued lamb shanks or pasta or grilled salmon. Old-fashioned lunch counter and dining rooms. Monday-Friday 7 am-9 pm, Saturday 8 am-9 pm. Reservations accepted. $$. Most major credit cards. 169 S. Main, Salt Lake City. Phone 801-364-7166.

Red Butte Cafe—Soft Southwestern decor is the backdrop for this casual, friendly eatery. The menu features cold and grilled sandwiches, salads and soups. The lime-and-chipotle-marinated grilled chicken salad is a perennial favorite. Save room for dessert from the well-stocked bakery. Monday-Thursday 11:30 am-9:30 pm, Friday and Saturday 11:30 am-10:30 pm, Sunday 11 am-9 pm. Reservations accepted. $. 1414 Foothill Dr., Salt Lake City. Phone 801-581-9498.

Santa Fe Restaurant—Southwestern dishes are the stars in the eclectic menu at this rustic lodge. March-October patrons can dine on heated decks while looking up at the spectacular Wasatch Mountains. Cozy fireplaces and art are inside. Lunch Monday-Friday 11:30 am-2:30 pm, dinner Monday-Saturday 5-10 pm, Sunday brunch 10 am-2:30 pm. Reservations accepted. $$. Most major credit cards. 2100 Emigration Canyon (2.5 mi/4 km up Emigration Canyon Road), Salt Lake City. Phone 801-582-5888.

AMERICAN

Metropolitan—The formal dining room is minimalist, but comfortable, and offers New American cuisine with a French influence, artfully presented. Casual dining is available in the bistro. Caribou seasoned with cardamom, served with winter squash dumplings, is a special entree. Fruit soup is the favorite dessert of the owner. A daily tasting menu consisting of 5-10 courses is available at a premium. Live jazz Saturday nights. Tuesday-Thursday 5:30-10 pm, Friday and Saturday to 11 pm. Reservations required. $$$$. Most major credit cards. 173 W. Broadway, Salt Lake City. Phone 801-364-3472.

Rivers—Products of the on-site brewery are available to accompany the contemporary fare. The menu features creative salads (available at half price for an ample half serving), pasta, innovative pizzas and a nice variety of fish and meats. Monday-Friday 11 am-11 pm, Saturday and Sunday 10 am-11 pm. $$$. Most major credit cards. 6405 S. 3000 East, Salt Lake City. Phone 801-733-6600.

ASIAN

Bambara—Bambara advertises itself as "A World of Flavors." Its menu draws influences from many cultures, including Asian, French and Italian. An exhibition kitchen allows patrons to watch chef Scott Blackerby and his staff at work. The comfortable dining room was formerly a bank. Try mushroom streudel or smoked salmon on sourdough as an appetizer. Oolong tea brulee is a different and interesting finish. Serves breakfast daily 7-10 am, lunch daily 11:30-3 pm, dinner Sunday-Thursday 5-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 5-11 pm. Reservations required. $$$$. Most major credit cards. 202 S. Main, Salt Lake City. Phone 801-363-5454.

Bangkok Thai—This is a source for authentic Thai and pan-Asian/Pacific rim dishes served in an unspectacular but pleasing restaurant in Foothill Village, an upscale East Bench strip mall. Costumed Thai servers are eager to explain the vast vegetarian and vegan menu. Traditional Thai meat-centered dishes as well. Lunch Monday-Friday 11:30 am-2:30 pm, dinner 5:30-9:30 pm (Friday to 10 pm), Saturday noon-10 pm, Sunday 5-9 pm. Reservations accepted. $$. Most major credit cards. 1400 S. Foothill Dr., phone 801-583-7840.

Ichiban—Chef Peggi Whiting's exquisite sushi rolls are not to be missed. Try the Funky Charlie or the off-the-menu Silverlake. Main course dishes, including ginger beef, mint chicken and sukiyaki are also well done in a remodeled church. Open daily 4-10 pm. Private rooms available for parties of 6 or more. Open daily 4-10 pm. Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards. 336 South 400 East, Salt Lake City. Phone 801-532-7522.

Koyo—Shrimp tempura is the specialty at this traditional Japanese restaurant, but fresh sashimi, salmon, sukiyaki and maki sushi are available as well. Some rooms provide tatami mats and privacy screens. Lunch Tuesday-Friday 11:30 am-2 pm, dinner Tuesday-Sunday 5:30-10 pm. $$. Most major credit cards. Reservations recommended. 2275 E. 3300 South (15 minutes from downtown), phone 801-466-7111.

Xiao Li—Located a block from the Delta Center in the renovated Historic Warehouse District, Xiao Li serves Sichuan and Mandarin dishes. Shrimp or chicken with spicy hot peppers are distinctive, and there are many options for vegetarians. Black pillars, high ceilings and a line-up of white-clothed tables are a departure from typical Chinese-restaurant decor. Lunch served Monday-Friday 11:30 am-2:30 pm; dinner served every night 4-10 pm. Reservations for large parties only. $$. Most major credit cards. 307 W. 200 South, phone 801-328-8688.

BREAKFAST AND BRUNCH

Anchors Aweigh—A great breakfast, with espresso and cappuccino, is served in this small, modern setting in the heart of Salt Lake. Within legal hours, it's also a tavern, serving domestic and local microbrews. Open 24 hours seven days a week. 64 W. 400 South, phone 801-521-2072.

Ruth's Diner—Nestled in Emigration Canyon, this '40s-style diner serves gourmet omelettes, buttermilk pancakes and fluffy white biscuits with homemade raspberry jam as part of its breakfast menu (and pot roast and mashed potatoes as part of its old-fashioned dinner listings). The tree-shaded deck, open early spring through fall, affords a lovely mountain view in the morning. Daily 8 am-10 pm; breakfast served to 4 pm. This is a popular destination approximately 15 minutes from downtown hotels. No reservations. $-$$. Major credit cards. 2100 Emigration Canyon (follow 800 South, which becomes Emigration Canyon), phone 801-582-5807.

COFFEEHOUSES

Coffee Garden—You can find plenty of accompaniments for coffee: homemade hot scones, pastries and desserts from Bakers de Normandie, plus you can have quiche, sandwiches and burritos. Cappuccino, iced mocha or chai, too. Take-out or dine-in. Sunday-Thursday 6 am-11 pm, Friday and Saturday 6 am-midnight. $. Corner of 9th East and 9th South, phone 801-355-3425.

CONTINENTAL

Capitol Cafe—Continental cuisine in a tasteful setting next door to the Capitol Theater. Acorn squash ravioli and porcini-crusted halibut are favorites, but the menu changes nightly. Creme brulee is a popular finale. Open daily for dinner from 5 pm. Reservations required. $$$. Most major credit cards. 54 W. 200 South, Salt Lake City. Phone 801-532-7000.

FRENCH

La Caille at Quail Run—This is the place to go if you want to impress a business contact or a date. The elegant, pseudo-18th-century French chateau is set in 22 acres/9 hectares of gardens laced with flowing streams. During the holiday season it decorates with 350,000 lights. The French cuisine is varied, but rack of lamb is especially popular. Superb service. The grounds house a bed-and-breakfast inn. Near the mouth of Little Cottonwood Canyon, south of the city (a half-hour drive). Monday-Saturday from 5 pm, with last reservation usually at 8:30 pm. Sunday brunch 10 am-1 pm, Basque-style dinners Sunday 5-8:30 pm. Reservations requested. $$$. Most major credit cards. 9565 Wasatch Blvd., Salt Lake City. Phone 801-942-1751.

MIDDLE EASTERN

Sahara—The Middle Eastern fare at this popular downtown retreat includes such delights as stuffed grape leaves, falafel, all manner of kabobs and the best tabbouleh in town. Be sure to top it off with baklava and Kenafah, accompanied by Kamal's eye-opening Turkish coffee. Monday-Saturday 10 am-2:30 pm and 5-9:30 pm. $-$$. No credit cards, but checks accepted. 368 S. State St., phone 801-595-6900.

SEAFOOD

Christopher's Seafood and Steakhouse—A quiet, quality seafood and steak eatery with reasonable prices. Breakfast Monday-Saturday 7-11 am; lunch 11:30 am-3 pm. Dinner Monday-Thursday 4:30-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 4:30-11 pm, Sunday 4:30-9 pm. Reservations accepted. $$. Most major credit cards. 110 W. Broadway (300 S.), phone 801-519-8515.

SPANISH

Cafe Madrid—Authentic Spanish cuisine is offered in this small, casual locale. A large variety of tapas accompanies such entrees as chicken in escabeche and marsala chicken. Excellent flan, lemon mousse and rice pudding are on the dessert menu. Monday-Friday 11:30 am-2:30 pm and 5:30-9:30 pm. $$. Most major credit cards. 2080 E. 3900 South, Salt Lake City. Phone 801-273-0837.