At one time characterized by all-you-can-eat restaurants serving bland food, Salt Lake City restaurants now reflect a cosmopolitan and ethnic diversity difficult to match in any city of comparable size. Restaurant choices include a range of traditional, trendy and multinational cuisines.

Note: Utah's liquor laws have eased considerably. You may now order drinks with meals in restaurants. Nonexclusive private clubs serving drinks with or without meals charge a nominal temporary membership fee (usually around US$10). Purchases can now be made in state liquor stores using checks or major credit cards.

For the following restaurants, expect to pay within these general guidelines, based on the cost of a dinner for one, not including drinks, tax or tip:

$ = less than $10
$$ = $10-$20
$$$ = $20-$50
$$$$ = more than $50

BEST IN TOWN

Caffe Molise -- Delicious downtown convenience: Italian cuisine inspired by the rustic Molise region. Imported pastas, fresh sauces, seafood, decadent desserts; try the popular Involtine di pollo (chicken stuffed with asiago, prosciutto and sun-dried tomatoes). In the summer, dine on an intimate patio. Art changes monthly. Jazz on Friday nights. Lunch Monday-Friday 11:30 am-2 pm, dinner Monday-Thursday 5:30-9:30 pm, Friday and Saturday 5:30-10:30 pm. Reservations necessary. $$. Most major credit cards. 55 W. 100 South, phone 801-364-8833.

The New Yorker -- Sophisticated ambience and consistently well-prepared dishes at a private-club restaurant downtown. (You can, however, purchase a temporary club membership, lasting for two weeks, for US$10.) At The New Yorker, the seafood, fresh fish and desserts are especially good -- and the tenderloin draws loyal customers back again and again. Complimentary shuttle to and from ballet, opera and symphony. Elegant dining room open Monday-Friday 11:30 am-2:30 pm, Monday-Thursday 5:30-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 5:30-11 pm. $$-$$$. The casual cafe is open Monday-Thursday for lunch 11:30 am-2:30 pm and for dinner 2:30-11 pm. Friday 2:30-11:30 pm, Saturday 5:30-11:30 pm. $$-$$$. Reservations accepted for the dining room only. Most major credit cards. 60 Market St., phone 801-363-0166.

Oasis Cafe -- Relax while enjoying well-prepared vegetarian and seafood dishes. Tuesday is International Night, with a five-course meal reflecting cuisine of a different country each week. Monday-Thursday 7 am-9 pm, Friday 8 am-10 pm, Saturday 8 am-10 pm, Sunday 8 am-9 pm. $-$$. Most major credit cards. 151 S. 500 East, phone 801-322-0404.

HOT AND TRENDY

The Crocodile Lounge -- The only source for Cajun food in the downtown area—and it's good stuff! Local media personalities frequent this cozy restaurant, whose decor resembles a bayou swamp. Hot-as-you-can-stand-it dishes and fresh seafood flown in daily from Louisiana. Or try their slow-roasted baby back ribs. Private club (but remember that temporary membership is inexpensive), liquor and beer available. Open Monday-Friday 11:30 am-1 am, Saturday 5 pm-1 am. There's live entertainment Wednesday-Saturday nights. Reservations for large parties only. $$. Most major credit cards. 60 E. 800 South, phone 801-575-6900.

Fresco Italian Cafe -- An intimate, romantic setting for superb Italian dinners. Try, for instance, the grilled polenta cake with cheese and wild mushroom topping, or the lamb with garlic and rosemary. This shrine is understandably crowded, so reservations are mandatory. Open Monday-Saturday 5-10 pm, Sunday 5-9 pm. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Ten minutes' drive from downtown at 1513 S. 1500 East, phone 801-486-1300.

LOCAL FAVORITES

Lamb's Restaurant -- This old-shoe restaurant, oldest in Salt Lake, has been a favorite downtown hangout for newspaper and business personalities since 1919. All-American breakfasts of eggs Benedict or Utah mountain trout, for example; lunches and dinners of barbecued lamb shanks or pasta or grilled salmon. Old-fashioned lunch counter and dining rooms. Monday-Friday 7 am-9 pm, Saturday 8 am-9 pm. Reservations accepted. $$. Most major credit cards. 169 S. Main, phone 801-364-7166.

D.B. Cooper's -- Downtown's premier social club for the past 25 years, D. B. Cooper's boasts a superb menu that includes steamed mussels, polenta, roasted pheasant and fresh sashimi. Vegetarian meals are available -- the white wine risotto is a favorite. Live jazz nightly. Monday-Saturday 11:30 am-2:30 pm and 5-10 pm. $$. Most major credit cards. 19 E. 200 South, phone 801-466-7111.

Redbones -- A 10-minute drive from downtown but worth it: Memphis-style barbecue, including hand-rubbed ribs, pulled pork, brisket and chicken. Three-bean chili is a popular vegan entree. Open seven days a week. $$. Most major credit cards. 2207 S. 700 East, phone 801-463-4800.

Santa Fe Restaurant -- Southwestern dishes are the stars in the eclectic menu at this rustic lodge -- chief among them either pollo or carne asada on jalapeno fettucini with poblano sauce. March-October patrons can dine on heated decks while looking up at the spectacular Wasatch Mountains. Cozy fireplaces and art are inside. Lunch Monday-Friday 11:30 am-2:30 pm, dinner Monday-Saturday 5-10 pm, Sunday brunch 10 am-2:30 pm. $$. Most major credit cards. 2100 Emigration Canyon (2.5 mi/4 km up Emigration Canyon Road), phone 801-582-5888.

FRENCH

La Caille at Quail Run -- This is the place to go if you want to impress a business contact or date. The elegant, pseudo-18th-century French chateau is set in 22 acres/9 hectares of gardens laced with flowing streams. During the holiday season 350,000 lights raise the setting to sheer enchantment. The French cuisine is varied, but rack of lamb is especially popular. Service is superb and presentations are gorgeous. Open Monday-Saturday from 5 pm, with last reservation usually at 8:30 pm. Sunday brunch 10 am-1 pm, Basque-style dinners Sunday 5-8:30 pm. Reservations requested. $$$. Most major credit cards. The grounds house a bed-and-breakfast inn. Near the mouth of Little Cottonwood Canyon, south of the city (figure a half-hour's drive), at 9565 Wasatch Blvd., phone 801-942-1751.

ASIAN

Xiao Li -- Located a block from the Delta Center in the renovated Historic Warehouse District, Xiao Li provides a vast selection of Sichuan and Mandarin dishes in a sophisticated and airy environment. Black pillars, high ceilings and a line-up of white-clothed tables are a departure from typical Chinese-restaurant decor. Shrimp or chicken with spicy hot peppers are distinctive, and there are many options for vegetarians. Monday-Thursday 11:30 am-2:30 pm and 4-10 pm, Friday 11:30 am-2:30 pm and 4-11 pm, Saturday 4-11 pm and Sunday 4-10 pm. Reservations for large parties only. $$. Most major credit cards. 307 W. 200 South, phone 801-328-8688.

Bangkok Thai -- Here is a source for tasty, authentic Thai dishes served in an unspectacular but pleasing ambience in Foothill Village, an upscale East Bench strip mall. Helpful, costumed Thai servers are eager to explain the bewildering array of choices. Vast vegetarian and vegan menu, plus traditional Thai meat-centered dishes. Monday-Friday 11 am-2 pm, Sunday-Thursday 5-9:30 pm. Reservations accepted. $$. Most major credit cards. 1400 S. Foothill Dr., phone 801-583-7840.

Koyo -- Shrimp tempura is the specialty at this traditional Japanese restaurant, but fresh sashimi, salmon, sukiyaki and maki sushi are available as well. Some rooms provide tatami mats and privacy screens. Lunch Tuesday-Friday 11:30 am-2 pm, dinner Tuesday-Thursday 5:30-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 5:30-11 pm and Sunday 5-9 pm. $$. Most major credit cards. Reservations recommended. 2275 E. 3300 South (15 minutes from downtown), phone 801-466-7111.

BREAKFAST/LATE NIGHT

Bill & Nada's Cafe -- Hearty, old-fashioned breakfasts served up in a true mom-and-pop cafe, with a menu as big as the western range that cowboy owner Bill likes to talk about. Brains and eggs are the signature dish in this modest establishment, whose reputation rests as much on Bill and his loyal patrons as on the menu. Open 24 hours daily. $. Most major credit cards. Close to downtown at 479 S. 600 East, phone 801-359-6984.

Ruth's Diner -- Nestled in Emigration Canyon, this 40's-style diner serves gourmet omelettes, buttermilk pancakes and fluffy white biscuits with homemade raspberry jam as part of its breakfast menu (and pot roast and mashed potatoes as part of its old-fashioned dinner listings). The tree-shaded deck, open early spring through fall, affords a lovely mountain view in the morning. Daily 8 am-10 pm; breakfast served to 4 pm. This is a popular destination approximately 15 minutes from downtown hotels. $-$$. 2100 Emigration Canyon (follow 800 South; it becomes Emigration Canyon), phone 801-582-5807.

Anchors Aweigh -- A great 24-hour breakfast, with espresso and cappuccino, is served in this small, modern setting in the heart of Salt Lake. Within legal hours, it's also a tavern, serving domestic and local microbrews. Open 24 hours seven days a week. 64 W. 400 South, phone 801-521-2072.

ADDITIONAL DINING EXPERIENCES

Park Ivy Garden Cafe -- Enthusiastically reviewed by Vegetarian Times and Vegetarian Gourmet, this cafe serves simply the best homemade food in Utah. Be prepared to wait, because the food is so carefully and thoughtfully prepared. The cheese-topped Sun Bun and the Save-the-Chicken-Salad sandwich are very popular. Monday-Saturday 11 am-9 pm. $-$$. Most major credit cards. 878 S. 900 East, phone 801-328-1313.

Peery Pub and Cafe -- Adjacent to the Peery Hotel, this is an informal restaurant with an old-time-railway-eatery ambience. Expect innovative Continental cuisine and freshly made pastries. Menus change nightly. The Pub, serving sandwiches, is open Monday-Saturday 11:30 am-10 pm. $. The Cafe is open Monday-Saturday 5:30-10 pm. Reservations accepted. $$. Most major credit cards (not Diners Club). 110 W. 300 South, phone 801-521-5037.

Hungry i Restaurant --An attractive Foothill Village restaurant reflecting the city's large Greek population, this is the source of hearty, tasty, authentic Greek cuisine. Huge portions, fabulous omelettes. Monday-Thursday 8 am-10 pm, Friday to 11 pm, Saturday 8 am-11 pm, Sunday 9 am-9 pm. Reservations accepted. $$. Most major credit cards. 1440 Foothill Dr., phone 801-582-8600.

Sahara -- The Middle Eastern fare at this popular downtown retreat includes such delights as stuffed grape leaves, falafel, all manner of kabobs and the best tabbouleh in town. Be sure to top it off with baklava and Kenafah, accompanied by Kamal's eye-opening Turkish coffee. Monday-Thursday 11 am-4 pm and 5-9 pm, Friday 11 am-9 pm, Saturday 4-10 pm. $-$$. No credit cards, but checks accepted. 368 S. State St., phone 801-595-6900.

Coffee Garden -- The menu at the Coffee Garden has evolved as accompaniments for coffee: homemade hot scones, pastries and desserts from Bakers de Normandie, also quiche, sandwiches and burritos, not to mention cappuccino, iced mocha or chai. Take-out or dine-in. Sunday-Thursday 6 am-11 pm, Friday and Saturday 6 am-midnight. $. Corner of 9th East and 9th South, phone 801-355-3425.