Any kind of food your heart desires can be found in Orlando, from Continental to fast. Good seafood is Florida's specialty, but some restaurants serve more intriguing dishes—gator tail, gator nuggets and swamp cabbage, for instance. But as Orlando grows in sophistication, more of its restaurants are venturing into Italian and French cuisine. Intense competition between Disney and Universal also has led both companies to add themed restaurants operated by world-famous chefs. (Emeril's, in Universal's CityWalk, is a prime example.)

You will, of course, find all the usual concession stands at the theme parks—hot dogs, pizza, ice cream, pretzels and more. Keep in mind that entertainment, not food, is the theme parks' forte. Fast-food meals tend to be bland and expensive. But the parks also offer a number of real sit-down restaurants that make for a refreshing break from lines and rides. Several international restaurants at Epcot serve excellent, authentically prepared food. You will pay a premium to eat meals with pizzazz, however.

Dress at most restaurants is casual, although some fine-dining restaurants expect more formal attire—call for specific requirements.

Below is a sampling of restaurants in town. Expect to pay within these general guidelines, based on the cost of dinner for one, not including drinks, tax or tip: $ = less than US$10; $$ = US$10-$20; $$$ = US$21-$50; and $$$$ = more than US$50.

FAVORITE RESTAURANTS

Arthur's 27—Atop Disney's Buena Vista Palace Hotel and serving four- to six-course international cuisine. Phenomenal view of Disney's nightly fireworks. Though formal, it's comfortable and romantic. Dress is "smart casual." 6-10 pm nightly. Reservations suggested up to 30 days in advance. Jackets suggested. $$$. Most major credit cards. 1900 Buena Vista Dr., Lake Buena Vista, Orlando. Phone 407-827-3450.

Emeril's—With the re-creation of Chef Emeril Lagasse's famed New Orleans restaurant in Universal Orlando's City Walk, Emeril's quickly became a contender for best restaurant in town. The talk is about such triumphs as Louisiana oyster stew, a Grand Marnier souffle and the superb treatment given to farm-raised quail. Lagasse himself spends about one week per month on the premises. (Moving sidewalks take you from Universal's giant parking lot to CityWalk. Be prepared to walk a ways to get to the restaurant.) Lunch daily 11:30 am-2 pm, dinner Sunday-Thursday 5:30-10 pm, Friday-Saturday to 11 pm. $$$$. Most major credit cards. 6000 Universal Blvd., No. 702, Orlando. Phone 407-224-2400.

Manuel's on the 28th—A popular place for romantic dinners and special occasions, it's on the 28th floor of a downtown bank building, affording an outstanding view of the city. The exotic menu includes such delicacies as ostrich, bison, duck confit and a very popular Chilean sea bass entree with tomato salsa and lime aioli. Tuesday-Saturday 6-10 pm. Reservations recommended on weekends. $$$. Most major credit cards. 390 N. Orange Ave., Suite 2800, Orlando. Phone 407-246-6580.

Park Plaza Gardens—Award-winning cuisine in a New Orleans-style courtyard just a few minutes from downtown, in chic Winter Park. Many residents consider it the area's best. Fresh seafood, lamb, venison, and poultry and an excellent wine list. Soft piano music Friday and Saturday evenings and Sunday mornings. After dinner, take a romantic stroll on fashionable Park Avenue. Lunch Monday-Friday 11:30 am-2:30 pm. Dinner Monday-Thursday 6-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 6-11 pm, Sunday 6-9 pm. Sunday brunch 11 am-3 pm. Reservations suggested, especially for dinner. Jackets for men suggested, but not required. $$$. Most major credit cards. 319 Park Ave. S., Winter Park, Orlando. Phone 407-645-2475.

Pebbles—Bright Florida colors light up this casual downtown restaurant that remains popular for its creative appetizers (baked chevre, for instance), salads (Nutty Cheesy, for one) and entrees. Extensive wine list. The smart set may be seen dining at its sidewalk cafe. Monday-Wednesday 11 am-11 pm, Thursday 11 am-midnight, Friday 11 am-1 am, Saturday 5 pm-1 am, Sunday 5-11 pm. $$. Most major credit cards. 17 W. Church St., Orlando. Phone 407-839-0892.

Victoria & Albert's—Perhaps the most elegant restaurant on Disney property, and the only one to actually reserve a table for you at a given time. The menu of gourmet choices changes daily and is exotic (broiled antelope with cream sauce, for instance). Formal, lush furnishings, small and romantic. Within Disney's Grand Floridian Beach Resort. No children's menu. Reservations required—they can be booked 60 days in advance—but we've gotten in with just an hour's notice. Seatings between 5:45 and 6:30 pm and 9 and 9:45 pm daily. Jackets required for men. $$$$. Most major credit cards. 4401 Floridian Way, Lake Buena Vista, Orlando. Phone 407-824-2383.

Wolfgang Puck Cafe—Adding class to neon-lit Downtown Disney, the celebrity chef brings seriously gourmet fare to Mickeyland. Try the lovely salmon and the fresh-fruit cobbler. Cafe downstairs and classier Room upstairs. Cafe: 11 am-2 am daily; Dining Room: Sunday-Thursday 6-10:30 pm, Friday and Saturday 6-11 pm. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. 1482 Lake Buena Vista Dr., Orlando. Phone 407-938-9653.

LOCAL AND REGIONAL SPECIALTIES

Amigos—Filling and tasty Tex-Mex lunches and dinners for around US$10 an entree. Good food, cold beers and low prices render this local eatery especially popular Friday and Saturday evenings. Several locations. $-$$. 6036 S. Orange Blossom Trail, Orlando. Phone 407-857-3144.

Harvey's Bistro—Spacious and inviting in the heart of downtown. New England pot roast is popular, and the angel-hair pasta with wild mushrooms is simple but delicious. Monday-Thursday 11:30 am-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 11:30 am-11 pm. Reservations accepted on weekends. $-$$. Most major credit cards. 390 N. Orange Ave., Orlando. Phone 407-246-6560.

Lili Marlene's—Lili's (at Church Street Station) allows guests to sit at the dining table once owned by tax evader and mob boss Al Capone, soaking in the warm atmosphere created by gas lamps and rich, dark woods. The stock menu offers prime rib, steaks, veal, chicken, pasta and seafood. Lunch daily 11 am-4 pm. Dinner Sunday-Thursday 5:30-11:30 pm, Friday and Saturday 5:30-midnight. Sunday brunch 10:30 am-3:30 pm. Reservations suggested for parties of eight or more. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. 129 W. Church St., Orlando. Phone 407-422-2434.

Maison et Jardin—A romantic favorite, thanks to its garden setting, superior service and fine cuisine. Its wine cellar was rated by Wine Spectator as one of the best in the world. Showcase offerings include a grilled polenta cake with buffalo mozzarella, beef Wellington, filet mignon and stuffed Carolina quail. Monday-Saturday 6-10 pm, Sunday 11 am-2 pm and 6-9 pm. Reservations taken. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. 430 Wymore Rd., Altamonte Springs, Orlando. Phone 407-862-4410.

ASIAN

Forbidden City—Authentic Sichuan and Cantonese cuisine at reasonable prices. The eggplant in garlic sauce is highly regarded. So is the honey garlic chicken—it's not always on the menu, but faithful patrons know to request it. Monday-Friday lunch 11:30 am-2 pm, dinner every day 5-9:30 pm. $$. Most major credit cards (no American Express). 948 N. Mills Ave. Phone 407-894-5005.

Little Saigon—A taxi ride from most locations, but not far from downtown, this unpretentious little restaurant offers the most popular Vietnamese menu in town. There's a variety of traditional soup and rice entrees, but regulars are mostly devotees of its best appetizer: a summer roll with peanut sauce. Open daily 10 am-9 pm. $. Most major credit cards. 1106 E. Colonial Dr. Phone 407-423-8539.

Ran-Getsu of Tokyo—Sushi-maniacs swear that this is one of the best and most authentic Japanese restaurants in Florida. In addition to providing a menu of sushi, tempura, steaks and seafood, the restaurant features traditional Japanese drummers as entertainment. Located on International Drive within a few miles of Sea World and the tourist strip shops, outlet malls and attractions. Daily 5-11:30 pm. Reservations suggested. $$-$$$. Major credit cards except Discover. In the southwest at 8400 International Dr. Phone 407-345-0044.

DINNER THEATER

Arabian Nights—A three-course prime rib dinner while you watch a 25-act production that includes horses from around the world strutting their stuff. A must-see for horse lovers. US$36.95 adults, US$23.95 children ages 3-11. Daily 7:30 pm. At I-4 and Highway 192, Kissimmee. Phone 407-239-9223.

King Henry's Feast—A re-creation of merry old England where, in the king's court, entertainers swallow swords, juggle bottles and perform slight-of-hand. US$37.95 adults, US$23.95 children ages 3-11. Daily 7 pm, with additional Friday and Saturday shows at 9:30 pm. 8984 International Dr. Phone 407-351-5151.

Medieval Times—Where you can tear through a four-course feast while you watch a joust. One of the better dinner shows in Orlando. US$39.95 adults, US$35.96 for those age 55 and over, US$24.50 kids ages 3-12. Daily 8 pm. 4510 W. Highway 192, Kissimmee. Phone 800-229-8300.

Wild Bill's Wild West Dinner Extravaganza at Fort Liberty—Heavy on the horses, this show features all the hallmarks of the Old West—shootin', bad guys and dancehall girls. US$37.95 adults, US$23.95 children. Showtimes vary. 5260 W. Highway 192, Kissimmee. Phone 800-883-8181.

FRENCH

Le Coq au Vin—Generously portioned, fine French cuisine is served up in a comfortable, refurbished house. The menu changes every two months. (Orlando Sentinel food critic Scott Joseph loves this place: He describes it as "the place chefs go on their night off.") Lunch Tuesday-Friday 11:30 am-2 pm, dinner Tuesday-Saturday 5:30-10 pm, dinner Sunday 5-9 pm. Reservations suggested, particularly on weekends. $$-$$$. Major credit cards except Discover. Just five minutes from downtown at 4800 S. Orange Ave. Phone 407-851-6980.

ITALIAN (INCLUDING PIZZERIAS)

Bergamo's—Singing waiters bring extraordinary Italian dinners to your table. Piano-player music starts at 7 pm nightly, and the waiters belt out songs from operas and operettas. Try the escargot or the unusual house salad. Sunday-Thursday 5-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 5-11 pm. Reservations suggested. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. 8445 International Dr. (in Mercado Mediterranean Village). Phone 407-352-3805.

THEME PARK RESTAURANTS

Gone are the days when the most exciting dining an amusement park had to offer was a hot dog for dinner and cotton candy for dessert. Most Disney World restaurants—with exceptions at Downtown Disney and at Victoria and Albert's—now have priority seating, meaning you don't get a confirmed reservation but, once you arrive, your name gets bumped to the front of the waiting line. Expect a 5-15 minute delay. Your best bet is to make priority seating reservations as soon as you enter the park—or up to 60 days before arrival. You should also ask about opening hours, which change seasonally: Call 407-939-3463 for information and reservations.

Reserve at least a couple of evenings to dine at the authentically appointed restaurants located in the World Showcase section of Disney's Epcot Center, which remains Disney's theme-park bastion of good food. The countries of World Showcase each have their own top-notch restaurant with traditional foods, detailed decor and servers who are native to the country represented. None is better than another; choose according to personal taste.

Disney World restaurants—A hearty meal inside the Magic Kingdom's Cinderella's Castle at Cinderella's Royal Table is fun and unusual. At Disney-MGM Studios, the Brown Derby faithfully re-creates its namesake in Tinseltown, Mama Leone's serves good Italian fare, the Sci-Fi Drive-In serves up horror as sci-fi diners sit in car-styled booths, and the '50s Prime Time Cafe re-creates sit-coms with Wonder Years food and decor, plus waitresses who make you clean your plate.

Epcot restaurants—Marrakesh serves such Moroccan dishes as couscous, shish kebab, roast lamb and bastila, with belly dancers for entertainment. Norway's Akershus, in a handsome stone wine-cellar setting, contains a buffet, giving you a chance to taste many foods. Germany's Biergarten appears to be outdoors (it's not); in the evening, traditional entertainers perform. Also consider France's Les Chefs de France, Mexico's San Angel Inn, Canada's Le Cellier steakhouse, Italy's L'Originale Alfredo di Roma Ristorante, Japan's Mitsukoshi, China's Nine Dragons and the United Kingdom's Rose & Crown.

ADDITIONAL EXPERIENCES

Hard Rock Cafe—Recently relocated to Universal's CityWalk, the Hard Rock is Orlando's busiest restaurant, and it remains an irreverent tribute to the music of the past 50 years. As the largest Hard Rock Cafe in the world, it also has a concert section where diners can enjoy an intimate night with big-name entertainers (ticket prices are fairly upscale). Inside, stained-glass likenesses of Jerry Lee Lewis, Chuck Berry and Elvis Presley bless the congregation gathered for cold beer and hot sandwiches. Count on waiting for a table, particularly on weekends. Daily 11am-2 am. $-$$. CityWalk. Phone 407-351-7625. Orlando.

Harold and Maude's—At night, health food and a bohemian atmosphere for the nutritionally correct. Imagine a wheatgrass aperitif followed by a fiber-rich sandwich or salad. They've added an upscale espresso bar. A small stage is a set for poetry readings and local musicians. Open nightly 5 pm, with late-night closing Monday-Thursday at 1 am or 2 am, Friday and Saturday 3 am, Sunday 1 am. But hours can vary, so check first. $. 25 Wall Street Plaza (downtown, within walking distance of Church Street Station). Phone 407-422-3322.

Townsend's Fishhouse & Tavern—A converted, multilevel warehouse full of antiques provides rustic ambience. Terrific seafood and steaks. Music until 2 am. Minutes from downtown. Monday-Thursday 5-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 5-11 pm. $$. Most major credit cards. 35 W. Michigan St., Orlando. Phone 407-422-5560.