It's possible to get a bad meal in New Orleans, but it's not easy. Local cuisine is a delightful mixture of creole, Cajun, French, soul food and a number of other styles. By all means try the abundant seafood, including oysters (on the half shell, Rockefeller or Bienville, fried, stuffed), crawfish (a.k.a. crawdads and crayfish—boiled, fried, etouffee, bisque), shrimp (Creole, boiled, fried, stuffed, remoulade), crab (boiled, stuffed, fried or broiled soft shell), blackened redfish, stuffed flounder, broiled red snapper, pompano or trout en papillote and fried catfish. Gumbo is a special case. It can be made with all or just one of the above, as well as with chicken or sausage. Also made with a variety of ingredients is jambalaya (usually chicken or seafood).

Red beans and spicy andouille sausage with rice and boudin (sausage stuffed with a spicy mixture of pork and rice) are outstanding Cajun dishes. Rabbit, fried chicken, dirty rice (made with seasoning and chopped giblets or other meat), deep-fried Thanksgiving turkey (seriously—and it tastes great), stuffed artichoke, stuffed eggplant, po'boy sandwiches (the New Orleans name for subs or heroes, usually filled with fried seafood), muffulettas, warm bread pudding with whiskey sauce, beignets (fried pastries), delightful strong dark coffee (or cafe au lait), pecan pralines—the list goes on forever. And don't forget the local tradition of the jazz brunch—a late-morning meal spiced with live music—that'll kick-start your day. Commander's Palace, across from Lafayette Cemetery No. 1 in the Garden District, puts on a good Sunday jazz brunch—and it also serves wonderful creole cuisine at lunch and dinner (not to mention the restaurant's elegant service and ambience).

For Cajun cooking, try Brigsten's (homey, in the Riverbend area of Uptown) or Emeril's (the vivacious TV chef's namesake) in the Warehouse District. Try to make reservations at Emeril's several months in advance if you want dine there on a weekend. For creole meals: Commander's Palace, Nola (a modern take on traditional creole) or Galatoire's (outstanding seafood, now accepting reservations). Acme Oyster House makes classic po'boys (all visitors should have at least one), and Cafe du Monde is de rigueur for anyone spending even one day in New Orleans (beignets, chicory coffee and people watching make up the menu). Both are in the French Quarter.

Below is a sampling of restaurants. Expect to pay within these general guidelines, based on the cost of a dinner for one and not including drinks, tax or tip. $ = under US$10; $$ = US$10-$20; $$$ = US$21-$50; and $$$$ = more than US$50.

FAVORITE RESTAURANTS

Commander's Palace—Filling a romantic Victorian mansion across from a melancholy cemetery, this cornerstone of the Brennan family restaurant empire prides itself on exquisite service and classy Creole cooking. Sundays are noted for their jazz brunches; every day is noted for its people watching opportunities. If reserved well in advance, the Chef's Table is available nightly for a party of four. Only one seating is available, and for US$75 per person, the chef and sous chef serve a seven-course meal amid lots of action in the kitchen. Monday-Friday 11:30 am-1:30 pm and 6-9:30 pm (last seating); three seatings for Saturday brunch 11:30 am, noon and 12:30 pm; Sunday brunch 10:30 am-1:30 pm. Saturday and Sunday dinner 6-10 pm (last seating). Reservations required. No jeans, T-shirts or shorts are allowed. For dinner and Sunday brunch, men must wear jackets. $$$. Most major credit cards. 1403 Washington Ave. (Garden District), New Orleans. Phone 504-899-8221.

Delmonico—Emeril Lagasse's latest gem. Locals have long awaited the renovation of this landmark, and they have not been disappointed. The site has been beautifully restored to a state of grand Southern elegance and offers a range of fine Creole cuisine to match. Lunch Monday-Friday 11:30 am-2 pm, Sunday brunch 10:30 am-2 pm, dinner Sunday-Thursday 6 pm-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 6 pm-11 pm. $$$. Most major credit cards. 1300 St. Charles Ave., New Orleans. Phone 504-525-4937.

Emeril's Restaurant—Namesake and owner Emeril Lagasse has been named one of the top 25 chefs in the country by Food & Wine Magazine. He's been earning raves for the restaurant's versions of such classics as barbecued shrimp and roasted rack of lamb. Valet parking. Monday-Friday 11:30 am-2 pm, Monday-Thursday 6-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 6-11 pm. Closed Sunday. Reservations required several months in advance for certain weekends. Jackets recommended for men. $$$. Most major credit cards. 800 Tchoupitoulas St. (Warehouse District), New Orleans. Phone 504-528-9393.

Galatoire's—This institution is frequented by residents as well as tourists. Order any seafood dish with complete confidence (the Poisson Marguery with shrimp is outstanding). Crepes Maison filled with currant jelly is a specialty. If you want to eat in the original downstairs dining room, expect to wait in line on weekends and during special events. Tuesday-Saturday 11 am-10 pm, Sunday 11:30 am-9 pm. Closed Monday. The second floor was recently opened and now accepts reservations for any size party. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. 209 Bourbon St. (French Quarter), New Orleans. Phone 504-525-2021.

The Grill Room—One of New Orleans' finest, located in the Windsor Court Hotel. The restaurant promises a memorable dining experience with its scrumptious dishes and extraordinary presentations. The chef likes to change the menu every two to three weeks. The "tasting menu" is delicious, filling and offers a broad sampling of the the kitchen's repertoire. Breakfast daily 7:30-10:30 am, lunch Monday-Saturday 11:30 am-2 pm, Sunday brunch 10:30 am-2 pm. Dinner Sunday-Thursday 6-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 6-10:30 pm. Reservations preferred. For reservations, phone 504-522-1992. Jackets required; no jeans, tennis shoes or shorts. $$$-$$$$. Most major credit cards. 3000 Gravier St., New Orleans. Phone 504-523-6000.

K-Paul's Louisiana Kitchen—This restaurant is so popular with tourists it has become unfashionable for locals to be seen there. But who cares? The home of celebrity chef Paul Prudhomme, this is the restaurant that put Cajun cuisine on the national map. The food can be sensational (at worst, it's very good). Restaurant is entirely nonsmoking. Tuesday-Saturday 11:30 am-2:30 pm, Monday-Thursday 5:30-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 5:30-10:30 pm. Reservations are accepted for the upstairs dining room. Dress is business casual with jackets preferred. Shirts must have collars. $$$. Most major credit cards. 416 Chartres St. (French Quarter), New Orleans. Phone 504-524-7394.

Nola—An upbeat, modern spin on traditional New Orleans Creole-style cooking characterizes the signature dishes here. (It was established by chef Emeril Lagasse of Emeril's Restaurant.) Try the cedar plank-roasted fish with citrus-horseradish crust and lemon butter sauce served with Vietnamese seafood salad. For steak lovers, the Black Angus New York strip steak is served for dinner, with roasted garlic creamed potatoes, fried parsnip chips and homemade Worcestershire sauce. Monday-Thursday 11:30 am-2 pm and 6-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 11:30 am-2 pm and 6 pm-midnight, Sunday 6-10 pm. Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards. 534 St. Louis St. (French Quarter), New Orleans. Phone 504-522-6652.

The Red Room—The Garden District's new red-themed jazz and supper club occupies a building that used to be the top restaurant of the Eiffel Tower in Paris—it was dismantled and shipped to New Orleans years ago. As befits its ancestry, The Red Room is a stylish see-and-be-seen kind of place. Serves classic American cuisine and the occasional scarlet-hued dish such as red peppercorn-chive mashed potatoes. Drinks and a cocktail menu are served 5 pm-midnight; the bar's signature cocktail is Passione, a combination of passion fruit brandy and orange juice. Valet parking available. Dinner is served Monday-Thursday 6-9:45 pm, Friday and Saturday 6-10:45 pm. Entertainment (live music) begins at 8 pm. Try to make reservations a week in advance. Jackets preferred; no jeans allowed. $$$. Most major credit cards. 2040 St. Charles Ave., New Orleans. Phone 504-528-9759.

Ruth's Chris Steakhouse—Franchises of this restaurant can now be found throughout the country, but the original location is nestled in the heart of old New Orleans, in a commercial area north of the Quarter. The place in town for lunch and dinner power steaks, though an enticing array of seafood dishes also are offered. More than 150 imported and domestic wines. Sunday-Friday 11:30 am-11 pm, Saturday 4-11 pm. Reservations suggested. $$$. Most major credit cards. 711 N. Broad St. (Mid-City), New Orleans. Phone 504-486-0810.

Upperline—Upperline's handpainted exterior is as eye-catching as its interior, which is decorated with an ever-changing art collection in a homey atmosphere. Diners enjoy a range of such scrumptious dishes as duck confit and braised lamb shank. Wednesday-Sunday 5:30-9:30 pm. Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards. 1413 Upperline St., New Orleans. Phone 504-891-9822.

LOCAL AND REGIONAL SPECIALTIES

Acme Oyster House—A New Orleans institution since 1907, Acme also serves up roast beef and fried seafood po'boys, but the oysters are the real star: fresh from the sea and shucked right before your eyes. Raw oysters and cold beer are the mainstays, but great oyster dishes and grilled shrimp are also popular. Monday-Saturday 11 am-10 pm, Sunday noon-7 pm. $. Most major credit cards. 724 Iberville St. (French Quarter), New Orleans. Phone 504-522-5973.

Bayona—Definitely a local favorite. Chef Susan Spicer's signature dish is grilled shrimp with black bean cake and coriander sauce. The grilled duck is another specialty. All dishes are served in an atmosphere that's simple but elegant. Monday-Friday 11:30 am-1:30 pm, Monday-Thursday 6:30-9:30 pm and until 10:30 pm Friday and Saturday. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. 430 Dauphine St. (French Quarter), New Orleans. Phone 504-525-4455.

Brigsten's—Co-owner Frank Brigsten received the 1998 James Beard Award for Best Chef/Southeast for his delicious southern Louisiana specialties. Tucked among the charming old buildings of the Riverbend area, Brigsten's serves its dishes in a quiet, homey atmosphere. Be sure to finish your meal with a slice of homemade pecan pie drizzled with warm caramel sauce. Tuesday-Saturday 5:30-10 pm. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. 723 Dante St., New Orleans. Phone 504-861-7610.

Cafe du Monde—Knowing what to order at this large, open-air cafe across from Jackson Square is very simple; there's only one food item on the menu: beignets, New Orleans' version of fried dough, smothered in powdered sugar. Their flavor is complemented by the cafe's superbly blended cafe au lait. This is the place to both start and end the day. It provides everyone with favorite memories. Open 24 hours. No reservations. $. Cash only. 800 Decatur (French Quarter), New Orleans. Phone 504-581-2914.

Central Grocery—Others may sell muffulettas, some may even claim to be the originator of the recipe, but accept no imitations. You stand at the meat case and order your sandwich (made with an assortment of deli meats and cheese; a half sandwich is usually enough for one person). What makes it special is the family-secret olive spread and—some believe—the bread. If you're lucky, you can elbow your way to some counter space to eat. If you can't, munch away as you wander through the Quarter, but bring plenty of napkins. Monday-Saturday 8 am-5:30 pm, Sunday 9 am-5:30 pm. $. Visa or MasterCard accepted for mail-order purchases only. 923 Decatur St. (French Quarter), New Orleans. Phone 504-523-1620.

Mother's—One of those well-known best-kept secrets in the middle of the Central Business District. No insult intended, but your mama never cooked anything as scrumptious as the "debris"-laden roast beef po'boy. Daily soul food specials include corned beef and cabbage, white beans and black-eyed peas. Monday-Friday 5 am-10 pm, Saturday and Sunday 7 am-10 pm. $$. Cash only. 401 Poydras St. (Central Business District), New Orleans. Phone 504-523-9656.

Mr. B's—A Brennan family restaurant with an elegant yet festive atmosphere in the heart of the Quarter. Try the barbecued shrimp or any of the hickory grilled meats, but save room for the famous bread pudding for dessert. Monday-Friday 11:30 am-3 pm and 5:30-10 pm, Saturday 11:30 am-3 pm and 5-10 pm, Sunday 10:30 am-3 pm (brunch) and 5:30-10 pm. Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards. 201 Royal St. (French Quarter), New Orleans. Phone 504-523-2078.

Praline Connection—Serious, succulent soul food, including fried chicken, smothered pork chops, ribs, collard greens, and red beans and rice. Two locations: (542 Frenchmen St. (Faubourg Marigny), Sunday-Thursday 11 am-10:30 pm, Friday and Saturday 11 am-midnight, phone 504-943-3934). The Warehouse District location (901 S. Peters St., phone 504-523-3973) hosts special events and a Gospel Brunch on Sunday with live bands (seatings are at 11 am and 2 pm). Both locations have shops that sell pralines and other delicacies. $$. Most major credit cards. New Orleans.

ASIAN

Five Happiness—Popular for both lunch and dinner, Five Happiness offers an extensive menu that includes perennial favorites such as pecan shrimp, Mandarin minced chicken and house-baked duck. Monday-Thursday 11:30 am-10:30 pm, Friday and Saturday 11:30 am-11:30 pm, Sunday noon-10:30 pm. $-$$. Most major credit cards. 3605 S. Carrollton Ave. Phone 504-482-3935.

Siam Cafe—Spicy Thai cuisine (with a Louisiana twist) served in an exotic, Gothic building on the outskirts of the French Quarter. (Check out the upstairs room, the Dragon's Den, set up like an opium den, complete with throw-pillow seating; it's open every evening 6 pm-3 am, for dinner, drinks and live music.) Daily 5:30 pm-3 am. $$. Most major credit cards. 435 Esplanade Ave. (Faubourg Marigny). Phone 504-949-1750.

BREAKFAST AND BRUNCH

If you seek an alternative to the beignets at Cafe du Monde, we recommend the Bluebird Cafe or Brennan's.

Bluebird Cafe—This place figures in the breakfast and brunch plans of many New Orleanians. The Bluebird lists breakfast choices a bit healthier than the typical artery-clogging fare characteristic of the city. In addition to buckwheat pancakes, build-your-own omelettes, fresh fruit, yogurt and bagels, the Bluebird offers its signature huevos rancheros—eggs with black beans, cheese, tortillas and salsa. Lunch options include veggie melts, turkey sandwiches and the like, but items such as a corned beef hash remind you that the Bluebird isn't an exclusively health-food-type restaurant. Weekdays 7 am-3 pm, weekends 8 am-3 pm. $. Cash or local checks only. 3625 Prytania. Phone 504-895-7166.

Brennan's Restaurant—Brunch served at this legendary site is not your typical buffet brunch. Eggs St. Charles, for instance, consists of poached eggs atop fried trout, topped with hollandaise sauce. Bananas Foster is a flaming concoction with bananas, sugar, banana liqueur and rum. Brunch is served seven days a week 8 am-2:30 pm and costs US$35 (it includes appetizer, entree and dessert). Lunch served Monday-Friday 11:30 am-2:30 pm, dinner nightly 6-10 pm. $$$. Most major credit cards. 417 Royal St. (French Quarter). Phone 504-525-9711.

FRENCH

Antoine's—It's in the Quarter, it's French, and it was founded in 1840; that's about as New Orleans as a restaurant can get. This is the place that invented oysters Rockefeller. Enjoy other authentic French creations such as escargot and vichyssoise. Reservations recommended. Monday-Saturday 11:30 am-2 pm and 5:30-9:30 pm. $$$. Most major credit cards. 713 St. Louis St. (French Quarter). Phone 504-581-4422.

ITALIAN (INCLUDING PIZZERIAS)

Louisiana Pizza Kitchen—Creatively-topped, wood-oven-fired gourmet pizzas are the feature attraction in the Pizza Kitchen. Popular choices include those topped with roasted garlic, barbecue chicken and smoked salmon. But don't think it's just a pizza joint. Delicately prepared pastas and salads are also on the bill of fare. Sunday-Thursday 11 am-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 11 am-11 pm. $. Most major credit cards. Two locations: 95 French Market Place (French Quarter), phone 504-522-9500; and 615 S. Carrollton Ave. (Uptown), phone 504-866-5900.

Mandina's—For more than 50 years, this Mid-City mainstay has lavished enormous portions of Italian seafood upon hungry diners. Whenever saxophonist Branford Marsalis is back home in New Orleans, he stops in for a seafood po'boy sandwich. The turtle soup is also well regarded. Monday-Thursday 11 am-10:30 pm, Friday and Saturday 11 am-11 pm, Sunday noon-9 pm. $$. Cash only. 3800 Canal St. (Mid-City). Phone 504-482-9179.

LATE NIGHT

Clover Grill—Although the decor is reminiscent of 1950s small-town U.S., this French Quarter diner has a decidedly nontraditional feel, as evidenced by its colorful clientele—don't be surprised to find yourself rubbing elbows with transvestites or other creatures of the night. Serves up excellent burgers (cooked under a '59 Ford hubcap), omelettes, shakes and other greasy spoon fare. Has one of the most comical menus in New Orleans, which you're entreated not to steal. Open 24 hours. $. Most major credit cards (except Discover). 900 Bourbon St. Phone 504-598-1010.

La Peniche—This cozy eatery a few blocks from the French Quarter is the perfect place to get a shrimp omelette at 2 am. The hours are unusual: Open Thursday 9 am-Tuesday 2 pm continuously, closed Tuesday evening and all day Wednesday. La Peniche serves breakfast and New Orleans fare as well as standard restaurant entrees such as chopped sirloin with brown gravy and chicken-fried steak with white gravy. The seafood platter is the winner. $. Most major credit cards. 1940 Dauphine St. Phone 504-943-1460.

The Trolley Stop—Converted from an old gas station, this 24-hour dineresque joint is often jumping with cabbies, guests from St. Charles Avenue hotels and locals seeking reasonably priced late-night fare. Besides po'boy sandwiches and plate dinners, the Stop offers a full breakfast menu featuring generously stuffed omelettes, pancakes and French toast. $. Most major credit cards. 1923 St. Charles Ave. Phone 504-523-0090.

SEAFOOD

Michaul's on St. Charles—Live Cajun and zydeco music fill the air while seafood platters fill your stomach. The "Big Mamou" platter is loaded with shrimp, softshell crab, catfish, hush puppies, onion rings, stuffed crabs and boiled or fried alligator sauce piquant. If you finish, you receive an "honorary Cajun" certificate. Nightly Cajun dance lessons begin at 6:30 pm. Dinner Monday-Friday 5-11 pm, Saturday 6 pm-midnight. $$. 840 St. Charles Ave. (Uptown). Phone 504-522-5517.