The Strip and downtown Las Vegas have been transformed into a mecca for fine dining, matching other U.S. tourist destinations--New York, Chicago, Dallas, New Orleans and Los Angeles--bite for bite. Even the ridiculously cheap buffets and cuisine in the casinos (foot-long hot dogs) have become more expansive and elaborate. If you're unsure about the quality of the food, request a quick perusal of the buffet before you pay. As far as buffets are concerned, most are reasonably priced--US$3-$10 for breakfast, lunch or dinner. In the cheaper buffets, beware of unappetizing choices that might challenge the stomach. At more expensive buffets, expect longer lines, but also greater selection and quality. Many Sunday breakfast buffets cost more because they become champagne brunch buffets.

In part because Las Vegas was developed by people who came from somewhere else (and who wanted to cater to visitors from around the world), there's not much cuisine indigenous to Las Vegas. Its strength lies in the plethora of choices available. Such specialty cuisines as Chinese, French, Indian and Italian, as well as Southwestern and Tex-Mex fare, are the local mainstays. Prices for dining within the Las Vegas community can be comparable to dining on the Strip. Try one of the Local Favorites listed below if you tire of eating in hotels.

Expect to pay within these general guidelines, based on the cost of a dinner for one, not including drinks, tax or tip:

$ = less than $15
$$ = $16-$30
$$$ = $31-$60
$$$$ = more than $60

BEST IN TOWN

Le Cirque -- Owned by the Sirio Maccioni family and located in the Bellagio Resort, this sister site of Le Cirque New York serves contemporary French cuisine in a plush and playful circus setting. With a world class wine list of more than 400 selections. Jacket and tie required. Open daily 5:30-11:30 pm, reservations required. $$$-$$$$, most major credit cards. The Bellagio Resort, 3400 Las Vegas Blvd. S., phone 702-693-8100.

Star Canyon -- Southwestern cuisine prepared the classic French way (bone-in rib eye and pinto bean-wild mushroom ragout, red chile onion rings, grilled sirloin and sweet potato enchiladas) and served in the setting of a cowboy's dream ranch house. Daily 11:30 am-2:30 pm, 6-10 pm, reservations required. $$-$$$, most major credit cards. The Venetian Resort and Casino, 3355 Las Vegas Blvd. S., phone 702-414-3772.

Delmonico Steak House -- America's favorite chef' Emeril Lagasse (so voted in 1998 by GQ magazine) opened this steak house to kick this particularly American cuisine up a notch. Located in the Venetian Hotel Resort and Casino, the restaurant seats 320 and a large bar seats 60 and features a select menu. Open daily 5:30-10:30 pm, reservations required. $$-$$$, most major credit cards. The Venetian Resort and Casino, 3355 Las Vegas Blvd. S., phone 702-414-3737.

Ferraro's -- Boasts a “Best of the Best' Five-Star Diamond Award from the Restaurant Hospitality Association as one of the top-10 Italian restaurants in the U.S. Osso buco, steaks, fresh seafood and pasta specialties are prepared by a certified Master Chef from Italy and served in an art-deco setting. Nightly piano music and small dance floor. Daily 5:30-11 pm, reservations recommended. $$$, most major credit cards. 5900 W. Flamingo (near Jones), phone 702-364-5300. A second location has been added in the Stratosphere Hotel, 2000 S. Las Vegas Blvd., phone 702-382-9090.

Spago -- A classy offshoot of Wolfgang Puck's famed Los Angeles restaurant, it sustains a restrained, yet sumptuous decor despite its glitzy location among the Forum Shops of Caesars Palace. The cafe section overlooks the mall area; the dining room offers a more private setting. Specialties include chicken with garlic mashed potatoes, Chinese-style roast duck, braised lamb with fresh pasta and ratatouille. Monday-Friday 11 am-11 pm, Saturday and Sunday 11 am-12 or 12:30 am. Reservations taken for dining room only. $$$, most major credit cards. 3750 Las Vegas Blvd. S., phone 702-369-6300.

Hugo's Cellar -- Here's a romantic setting perfect for special occasions. Award-winning menu includes duck flambe anise, snapper en papilotte, rack of lamb Indonesian, steak and prime rib. The salads are prepared fresh at your table. Open every evening at 5:30 pm. Last seating is at 10:30 pm. Reservations recommended. $$$, most major credit cards. 202 E. Fremont St. (inside the Four Queens Hotel & Casino, downtown), phone 702-385-4011.

Piero's -- Fresh fish flown in daily, Maine lobster, Florida stone crab, Provimi veal and many varieties of pasta. Osso buco is a popular entree. Recipient of a five-star restaurant award. Daily 5:30-10 pm, reservations mandatory. $$$, most major credit cards. 355 Convention Center Dr., phone 702-369-2305.

Morton's of Chicago -- Considered one of Chicago's finest steak houses, Morton's is famous for double filet mignons, porterhouse, ribeye and New York strips. Other specialties include shrimp Alexander, whole baked Maine lobster and Morton's Sicilian veal chops. Monday-Saturday 5:30-11 pm and Sunday 5-10 pm, reservations recommended. $$-$$$, most major credit cards. In the Fashion Show Mall on the Strip at Spring Mountain Road, phone 702-893-0703.

Yolie's Brazilian Steakhouse -- Herb-marinated meats grilled on mesquite skewers showcase Brazilian cooking at its finest. The best sampling is the extraordinary multicourse dinner for US$22.95, which includes a black bean soup, appetizers, salad and various meats (lamb, sausage, beef tips, top sirloin, pork tenderloin, sausage and leg of lamb) straight off the skewer. Open daily 5-11 pm; a smaller lunch version is available Monday-Friday 11 am-3 pm, reservations suggested. $$$, most major credit cards. One block east of the Strip at 3900 Paradise Rd., 2nd Floor, phone 702-794-0700.

Smith & Wollensky Steak and Chop House -- New York-style chop house with New York hours. Menu includes Cajun rib eye steak, crackling pork shank, crab cakes, split pea soup. Reservations are recommended, despite the fact there is seating for 675. Casual fare at Wollensky's Grill daily 11:30 am-4 am, dinner daily 5 pm-midnight. $$-$$$$. 3767 Las Vegas Blvd. S., phone 702-862-4100.

HOT AND TRENDY

P. F. Chang's China Bistro -- Lunch or dinner finds this mouth-watering Chinese restaurant packed with locals and tourists. It's a place to be seen, whether you're dining indoors or out, but it's also a place to eat. Try Chang's spicy chicken or minced chicken in soothing lettuce leaves to whet your appetite. Part of what is quickly becoming restaurant row, this establishment started the trend of fantastic food, minutes from the Strip on Paradise Road. Lunch daily 11 am-4 pm, dinner Sunday-Thursday 4-11 pm, Friday and Saturday till midnight. No reservations, but you can call ahead just before coming over to have a table held up to 30 minutes. $$, most major credit cards. 4165 Paradise Rd. (east of the Strip), phone 702-792-2207.

Gordon Biersch -- Known for serving beer like it ought to be--freshly brewed on site. The food is equally good. Contemporary American cooking with international influences is served in large portions. Even so, you won't want to split your order of garlic rubbed hanger steak or Moroccan spice grilled lamb sirloin. Sunday-Thursday 11:30 am-10 pm, Friday and Saturday till 11 pm. $$, most major credit cards. 3987 Paradise Rd., phone 702-312-5247.

Cozymel's Mexican Grill -- Tropical, not typical, coastal Mexican cuisine. Always busy, always lively, with a large bar area and fabulous food. Try La Marina--a chicken breast served with tiger shrimp and Yucatan rice--or the manager's favorite--sea bass wrapped in banana leaves. Sunday-Thursday 11 am-10 pm, Friday and Saturday till midnight. $$, most major credit cards. 355 Howard Hughes Center Dr. (restaurant row, minutes from the Strip), phone 702-732-4833.

Z Tejas Grill -- Southwestern cuisine (it has outlets in Scottsdale, Arizona, and Austin, Texas, as well) with strong Cajun, Tex-Mex and Mexican influences: blackened voodoo tuna, grilled chicken adobe, pork roast Veracruz. Popular with locals and visitors alike. Daily 11 am-11 pm, reservations recommended. $$, most major credit cards. 3824 Paradise Rd. (near Twain), phone 702-732-1660.

LOCAL FAVORITES

Paradise Bistro -- Sample the bread first--it will melt in your mouth--along with the rest of the fine Northern Italian food. Menu includes pasta, seafood, veal, lamb, poultry and steaks. Live piano music nightly. Lunch Monday-Friday 11:30 am-2:30 pm, dinner daily 5-11 pm. Dinner reservations recommended. $$, most major credit cards. 3900 Paradise Rd. (restaurant row, minutes from the Strip), phone 702-791-5161.

168 Shanghai -- Located in China Town Plaza, the restaurant offers an array of authentic Chinese food. Start with pan-fried pot stickers. Follow up with sweet and sour chicken or spicy Mongolian beef. Daily 11 am-9:30 pm. $$, most major credit cards. 4215 Spring Mountain Rd., #B205 (upstairs in the center of the complex), phone 702-365-9168.

The Tillerman -- Located five minutes from the Strip, this restaurant serves fresh, fine seafood from all over the world, as well as steaks, pastas, salads and homemade pastries. Open every evening 5-11 pm. Reservations recommended for parties of 10 or more. $$$, most major credit cards. 2245 Flamingo Rd., phone 702-731-4036.

Philips Supper House -- Old, Victorian-style house with intimate alcoves and private rooms serving 6-80. Steaks, seafood and Italian veal specialties. Daily 4:30-11 pm, reservations accepted. $$$, most major credit cards. 4545 W. Sahara (between Arville and Decatur--a few miles from the Strip), phone 702-873-5222.

Cafe Nicolle -- You'll see everything from jeans to tuxedos there, where casual elegance prevails. There's dining on the patio. Choose from omelettes, crepes, salads, pastas, fresh fish and veal. Finish your meal with homemade pecan pie. Nice piano bar. Monday-Saturday 11 am-11 pm, reservations accepted. $$, most major credit cards. Corner of W. Sahara and Decatur, approximately 5 mi/8 km from the Strip, phone 702-870-7675.

Kiefer's Atop the Carriage House -- Romantic ambience overlooking the Strip. Signature dishes include orange roughy, king crab legs, veal picatta, seafood en croute and Louisiana seafood gumbo. Sunday-Thursday 5-11 pm, Friday and Saturday 5 pm-midnight. Piano bar Tuesday-Saturday 7 pm-midnight. Reservations suggested. $$, most major credit cards. 105 E. Harmon (half block east of the Strip), phone 702-739-8000.

Golden Steer -- Long-time steak house with elaborate decor reminiscent of old Las Vegas. Tableside-prepared Caesar salads, carved Chateaubriand, prime rib, seafood and Italian dishes. Daily 4:30-11:30 pm, reservations recommended. $$$, most major credit cards. 308 W. Sahara (just west of the Sahara Hotel), phone 702-384-4470.

FRENCH AND ITALIAN

Pamplemousse -- Waiters recite the country-French menu and serve in a romantic, French-cottage setting. Try the profiteroles or coup maison for dessert! Tuesday-Sunday, two seatings: 6-6:30 pm and 9-9:30 pm, reservations required. Coat and tie not required. $$$, most major credit cards. 400 E. Sahara (two blocks east of the Strip), phone 702-733-2066.

Batista's Hole in the Wall -- Serving fine Italian food since 1970. Dinner comes with complimentary house wine and great service, not to mention a roving violinist. Pasta is always a great choice for an entree. Sunday-Thursday 4:30-10:30 pm, Friday and Saturday till 11 pm, reservations recommended. $$, most major credit cards. In the shadow of Bally's, behind the Barbary Coast on Flamingo Road, 4041 Audrie, phone 702-732-1424.

Bertolini's -- Expect to wait there, since this spot among the Caesars Forum shops is very popular, and no reservations are taken. Source for gourmet pizzas and pastas, chicken with gorgonzola sauce, fazzoletto con funghi (handkerchief pasta with wild mushroom sauce), homemade gelato and creme brulee. Open daily 11 am-midnight, Friday and Saturday nights to 1 am. $$, most major credit cards. 3750 Las Vegas Blvd. S., phone 702-735-4663.

Venetian -- Las Vegas' oldest family-owned Italian restaurant, specializing in homemade pastas and Provimi veal served in a grottolike atmosphere. Daily 4-11 pm, reservations recommended. $$, most major credit cards. 3713 W. Sahara (at Valley View), phone 702-876-4190.

Andre's French Restaurant -- This downtown restaurant was voted best French restaurant by Las Vegas locals. Dine alfresco or in one of four French city-named dining rooms. The wine list has nearly 1,000 labels. Daily 6 pm-final seating, reservations recommended. $$-$$$, most major credit cards. 401 S. 6th, phone 702-385-5016.

ASIAN

Chin's -- If you don't feel like ordering from the menu, the chef will prepare a special delicacy for you. But good choices from the largely Cantonese menu include strawberry chicken, Chin's beef, steamed scallops and crispy pudding. Some Sichuan offerings. Warm yet elegant ambience with pianist Wednesday-Saturday. Daily 11:30 am-9:30 pm, except Sunday from noon. Reservations suggested for dinner. $$$, most major credit cards. In the Fashion Show Mall (on the Strip at Spring Mountain Road), phone 702-733-8899.

Osaka -- Authentic Japanese cuisine with full sushi bar, sukiyaki, donburi mono (rice bowl with imaginative toppings). Private Japanese dining rooms with floor seating. Monday-Thursday 11 am-10 pm, Friday 11 am-11 pm, Saturday 5-11 pm, Sunday 5-10 pm. $$, most major credit cards. 4205 W. Sahara (between Valley View and Arville), phone 702-876-4988.

Hamada of Japan -- In an intimate setting minutes from the Strip, you'll find sukiyaki, yosenabe and a sushi bar open until 2 am. In one section there's tableside cooking (and entertainment) by the chef. Open 5-11 pm nightly, reservations advised. $$$, most major credit cards. 598 E. Flamingo Rd., phone 702-733-3005.

ADDITIONAL DINING EXPERIENCES

Motown Cafe -- Located inside the New York New York Hotel, this eatery showcases Motown memorabilia from the Supremes to Boyz II Men. Casual atmosphere with live entertainment. Specializes in Southern foods, shrimp creole, chicken and waffles, jambalaya and typical cafe food. Open 7 am-11 pm weekdays and to midnight on weekends. After hours, the restaurant turns into a nightclub, staying open until 3 am on weekdays and 4 am on weekends. $$, most major credit cards. 3790 Las Vegas Blvd. S., phone 702-740-6440.

Voo Doo Cafe and Lounge -- The 50th floor of the Rio's red and blue glass tower gives diners a great view of the city. American bistro dining, and the dress is business casual. Daily 5-11 pm, reservations recommended. $$. One floor up is the Voo Doo Lounge. First come, first served, with live jazz entertainment. Daily 9 pm-2 am. Most major credit cards. Elevator entrance to cafe is on the second floor of the Rio's Masquerade Village Shopping area. Rio Hotel & Casino, 3700 W. Flamingo Rd., phone 702-252-7777.

Top of the World Dining Room -- Spectacular views of Las Vegas and beyond from 100 stories up, inside the Stratosphere. Rotating restaurant turns to reveal the entire city within an hour. Continental cuisine includes pasta, steak, rack of lamb, chicken. Open Sunday-Thursday 5-11 pm, Friday and Saturday 5 pm-midnight, reservations recommended. $$-$$$. 2000 Las Vegas Blvd. S., phone 702-383-7711.

The Official All-Star Cafe -- Celebrity co-owners Andre Agassi, Monica Seles, Joe Montana, Shaquille O'Neal, Tiger Woods, Ken Griffey Jr. and Wayne Gretzky opened this memorabilia showcase, with items representing the sports careers of everyone from Joe DiMaggio to Emmitt Smith. “Americana' food includes steaks, chicken, seafood, pasta dishes and sandwiches. Open daily 11 am-1 am. $-$$, most major credit cards. 3785 Las Vegas Blvd. S. (in Showcase Mall, next to MGM), phone 702-795-8326.

Country Star American Music Grill -- Sponsored by Reba McEntire and Vince Gill with country memorabilia, an Elvis room, video displays and CDs with headphones. Oh, yeah, and food: salads, pizzas, steaks, the Vince Gill burger, the Tracy Lawrence ribs with Jack Daniels whiskey sauce. Open Sunday-Thursday 11 am-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 11 am-11 pm. $$, most major credit cards. 3724 Las Vegas Blvd. S. (near Monte Carlo), phone 702-740-8400.

Dive! -- Stephen Spielberg's inspired “Deep. See. Experience.' restaurant lies in front of the Fashion Show Mall on the Strip. Watch underwater film adventures within techno-sub decor while dining on Dive! fries or carrot chips with seven dips. Also brick-oven barbecued chicken and such specialty subs as a softshell crab sub and a Parisian sub with grilled paillard of chicken and Gouda cheese. Sunday-Thursday 11:30 am-10 pm, Friday and Saturday to 11 pm. $-$$, most major credit cards. 3200 Las Vegas Blvd. S., phone 702-369-3483.

Hippo & The Wild Bunch -- Wild jungle atmosphere with a light-hearted touch. “Hippotizers' include focaccia, mussels, pot stickers and jumbo coconut shrimp. Entrees include linguine portofino, chicken a la plancha and steak bavette. There's also simpler fare: “hippotato' curls, square burgers, ribs and homemade ice cream. Open daily 24 hours. $-$$, most major credit cards. Located across from Hard Rock Hotel at 4503 Paradise Rd., phone 702-731-5446.

King Arthur's Court -- Billed as a 'royal feast of sight and sound,' this dinner show offers a medieval dining experience. A “serving wench' delivers soup, a main course of Cornish game hen, sides of vegetables and potatoes and dessert, which you eat only with your hands. During dinner, 'Merlin' guides a jousting match with horses and a laser-light show in the center of the coliseum. Seatings 6:30 and 8:30 nightly; US$29.95 includes tax and tip; nonsmoking. Inside the Excalibur Hotel, 3850 Las Vegas Blvd. S., phone 702-597-7600.

WHEN PRICE IS NO OBJECT

Bacchanal Room -- The grandeur of this dining experience includes a Roman-villa atmosphere with back massages and “magical grapes' for male customers, while Caesar and Cleopatra characters hand out perfume to women. A show of belly dancing and lighting and sound effects supplements the entertainment. The seven-course meal includes a triple-tiered tray of appetizers followed by such entrees as veal medallions and wild mushrooms and rack of roasted lamb with an herb crust. Tuesday-Friday seatings at 6, 6:30, 9 and 9:30 pm; Saturday seatings at 5:30, 6, 8:30 and 9 pm. Reservations recommended. Preselected menus (except for the entrees) start at US$69.50 and include wine. $$$$. Inside Caesars Palace, 3570 Las Vegas Blvd. S. (at Flamingo), phone 702-731-7731 or 800-634-6001.

Caesars Magical Empire -- Another uniquely Vegas experience, in which the entertainment makes a bigger impression than the cuisine, Caesars Magical Empire offers about three hours of dining, exploring and a live show. Dine in one of the 10 chambers of the gods. Centurion greets guests in catacombs and leads them to three-course dinner and tableside wizard. Afterward, guests leisurely wander through magical realm and watch the Lumineria show with fire, smoke and lighting effects. Dinner seatings US$75, US$10 discount for early or late dining, children ages 5-10 are half price. Ticket prices are exclusive of a US$2.50 ticket handling fee. Open daily with continuous dinner seatings 4:30 pm-11 pm. $$$$. Inside Caesars Palace, 3570 Las Vegas Blvd. S. (at Flamingo), phone 702-731-7333 or 800-445-4544.