More than 90 languages are spoken in Houston, and nearly that many types of food are served. Along with the steaks, barbecue and Tex-Mex food that visitors expect to find, you can also get four-star Continental cuisine and samplings of Cajun, Vietnamese and Middle Eastern fare.

The trendiest neighborhood in town—the Theater District in the northern part of downtown—is thick with restaurants and late-night pubs: Mingalone's Italian Bar and Grill, Sake Lounge, Harlon Bayou Barbeque and Angelika Film Center & Cafe are among them. All are open until midnight and often later.

Old Market Square on Kirby Drive, north and south of Highway 59, has a dozen midrange eateries, while the Galleria area offers several high-end dinner choices. Restaurants proliferate along the west end of Richmond, and several Middle Eastern cafes line Harwin Drive in southwest Houston. Farther out, on the Westheimer corridor, are many fine dining spots, including the exquisite Rotisserie for Beef and Bird.

Just across from the George R. Brown Convention Center, on the east side of Highway 59, is Houston's version of Chinatown—actually it's more like Little Saigon. In addition to restaurants, you'll also find an assortment of Asian supermarkets, stores selling traditional herbal remedies and a Taoist temple.

Below is a sampling of restaurants in town. Expect to pay within these general guidelines, based on the cost of a dinner for one, not including drinks, tax or tip: $ = less than US$10; $$ = US$10-$20; $$$ = US$20-$50; and $$$$ = more than US$50.

FAVORITE RESTAURANTS

Americas—The elaborate rain forest-inspired interior of this nationally acclaimed restaurant makes it seem almost a theme park of trendiness, but don't let this put you off: This place serves serious food. The innovative Pan-American menu encompasses seafood gazpacho, corn-crusted snapper, Tres Leches cake and rice-pudding souffle. Penny pinchers go for lunch and get the same food for half the price. Great martinis. Monday-Thursday 11:30 am-11 pm, Saturday 5-11 pm. Reservations recommended. $$$$. Most major credit cards. In the Saks Pavilion. 1800 Post Oak, Houston. Phone 713-961-1492.

Brennan's of Houston—Every bit as good as its New Orleans counterpart. Brennan's is a neat mixture of nouvelle, Texas Creole and (occasionally) heart-healthy dishes. If you're in the mood for a cocktail, try the famous Ramos gin fizz. The mothers and daughters who gather at this genteel downtown spot for lunch sometimes constitute four generations at one shaded table, sipping the celebrated turtle soup. The brunches are a long-standing tradition with the right families, too. A tradition in the making is the chef's table in the kitchen: The chef inquires about your preferences and then designs a menu of six or seven courses. Monday-Friday 11:30 am-1:30 pm and 5:45-10 pm. Weekend brunch Saturday 11 am-1:30 pm and Sunday 10 am-1:30 pm. Reservations strongly advised. Jackets required at dinner. $$$$. Most major credit cards. 3300 Smith St., Houston. Phone 713-522-9711.

Cafe Annie—Houston's most popular upscale eatery, even though it's in a strip shopping center. Chef and owner Robert Del Grande, a founding father of the new Southwestern cuisine, creates intriguing dishes: grilled quail with red-chile vinaigrette, wood-grilled salmon with pickled onion butter, lobster enchiladas and (very trendy) rabbit enchiladas. Lunch is served Monday-Friday 11:30 am-2 pm. Dinner is Monday-Thursday 6-10 pm, Saturday 6-10:30 pm. Reservations required. Coat and tie recommended. $$$$. Most major credit cards. In the Galleria area. 1728 Post Oak Blvd., Houston. Phone 713-840-1111.

La Colombe d'Or—This posh restaurant in Montrose is housed in a replica of a Mediterranean villa that was once the home of Exxon founder Walter Fondren. Classic French cuisine is served. There's also an adjoining ballroom, Le Grand Salon de la Comtesse. Monday-Friday 11:30 am-2 pm and Sunday-Thursday 6-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 6-11 pm. Reservations helpful. Coat and tie recommended. $$$$. Most major credit cards. 3410 Montrose, Houston. Phone 713-524-7999.

Tony's—The place to see and—more important—be seen. Tony's, on fashionable Post Oak Boulevard, has built its reputation by catering to (and often anticipating) guests' every need. The cuisine is Continental, with roast duckling and Dover sole the current favorites. Tony's fans choose the Grand Marnier or raspberry option from among the restaurant's trademark souffles. Dinner only, Monday-Thursday 6-11 pm, Friday and Saturday 6 pm-midnight. Reservations strongly recommended. Coat and tie recommended. $$$$. Most major credit cards. 1801 Post Oak Blvd., Houston. Phone 713-622-6778.

LOCAL AND REGIONAL SPECIALTIES

Berryhill Hot Tamales—Named after a famous River Oaks pushcart vendor, Berryhill is a popular fast-food establishment that made its reputation on crispy grilled and fried fish tacos. Other specialties include white-corn tamales in a sweet-and-sour chili sauce and hot and cold soups. Wine and beer served at the Revere site (the original Berryhill). Hard liquor—including excellent margaritas—served at a second location on Post Oak. Monday-Thursday 11 am-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 11 am-11 pm, Sunday 9 am-9 pm. $. 2639 Revere., Houston. Phone 713-526-8080.

Churrascos—The Cordua brothers bring you churrascos, from Nicaragua—grilled centercut tenderloins basted with chimichurri sauce. (The seafood is also very good.) South American wine list. Monday-Thursday 11:30 am-10 pm, Friday 11 am-11 pm, Saturday 5-11 pm. Reservations accepted. $$$. Most major credit cards. 9705 Westheimer, Houston. Phone 713-952-1988 Or call 713-527-8300 for info on a second location.

Goode Company—When they say "barbecue" in Houston, this is what they're talking about. Chicken, brisket, duck and pork—eaten if you choose with jalapeno cheese bread. Finish it off with pecan pie and you've had a real Texas meal. The decor of the Katy Freeway location is real Texas, too (it's a veritable Wild West museum). Braille menu available. Two locations. Daily 11 am-10 pm. Reservations not necessary. $$. Most major credit cards. 8911 Katy Freeway (I-10), Houston. Phone 713-464-1901 Call 713-522-2530 for info on Kirby Drive location.

Harlon's Bayou Blues—Live blues on weekend nights and old-time barbecue plates all the time, which must include potato salad and pinto beans. Wash it down with endless ice tea or beer. You can eat indoors or out for lunch, which is cafeteria style, or for dinner, a sit-down meal. Monday-Thursday 11 am-11 pm, Friday and Saturday 1:30 pm-2 am. Reservations recommended for parties of 10 or more. $. Most major credit cards. Downtown, in Bayou Place. 530 Texas, Houston. Phone 713-230-0111.

Luther's Barbecue—The thick red sauce is slathered over barbecued brisket, ribs, chicken and sausage, to be accompanied by—what else?—giant glasses of ice tea. Our favorite Luther's is downtown, but, with dozens of locations, you can find one in just about every part of the city. No reservations needed. $. Most major credit cards. Near the central library downtown. 1000 Smith, Houston. Phone 713-759-0018.

Rainbow Lodge—Quail, pheasant and duck roasting on a brick rotisserie, seafood from the Gulf of Mexico. All in a cozy hunting-lodge setting on the banks of Buffalo Bayou—a waterfall adds to the romantic appeal. (We hear that marriage proposals are not unusual in this restaurant.) Award-winning wine list. Tuesday-Friday 11:30 am-10:30 pm, Saturday 6-10 pm, Sunday 10:30 am-10:30 pm. Brunch on Sunday. Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards. Off Memorial Drive. 1 Birdsall, Houston. Phone 713-861-8666.

Rotisserie for Beef and Bird—Delicious Texas food, including wild game and (fantastic) tortilla soups. Chef Joe Mannke is known for his attention to detail, as well as for using the freshest regional ingredients. Excellent wine list. Lunch Monday-Friday 11:30 am-2 pm, dinner Monday-Saturday 6:30-9:30 pm. Reservations recommended. Coat and tie preferred. $$$. Most major credit cards. In West Houston. 2200 Wilcrest, Houston. Phone 713-977-9524.

Ruth's Chris Steak House—Though it's part of a chain, it's a strong, strong link. Recently remodeled, Ruth's Chris still serves big slabs of beef, as in the oil-boom days. Red meat, extra butter on everything and plenty of bourbon make this place not the least bit heart healthy. Eating there is a giant experience, though, and worth any risks. Valet parking only. Monday-Thursday 5-10:30 pm, Friday and Saturday 5-11 pm, Sunday 5-10 pm. Reservations strongly recommended. Upscale casual dress. $$$. Most major credit cards. 6213 Richmond, Houston. Phone 713-789-2333.

ASIAN

Kim Son—Chinatown's most impressive building is the Kim family's pagoda near the George R. Brown Convention Center. A huge, noisy eatery, Kim Son offers Vietnamese dining at moderate prices. The perfect place to learn about spring rolls, pepper crab and cha gio with nuoc cham. (And try the Vietnamese fajitas.) Be prepared to wait by the indoor fish pond during peak hours. Sunday-Friday 11 am-11 pm, Saturday 11 am-midnight. A Chinese buffet is served Monday-Friday 11 am-3 pm. Reservations for eight or more only. $. Most major credit cards. 2001 Jefferson at the corner of Chartres. Phone 713-222-2461. Check the phone book for two other locations.

Nit Noi—This popular Thai restaurant in Rice Village certainly caters to its customers: Your food can be cooked with no oil upon request, and you can look all you want, but you won't find any MSG in the kitchen. Assorted noodles, rice, salads and appetizers, plus a few "off-the-menu" items such as Jewel of the Sea (fresh seafood in an herb soup). Monday-Friday 11 am-3 pm and 5-10 pm, Saturday 11 am-10 pm, Sunday 5-9 pm. $$. Most major credit cards. 6395 Woodway. Phone 713-524-8114 or 713-789-1711.

BREAKFAST AND BRUNCH

Cafe Beignet—Go for breakfast, lunch or dinner and order scrumptious pastries, freshly baked breads, soups or salads. Continental entrees are another possibility. Finish off with ice cream or sorbet. Sunday-Thursday 7 am-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 7 am-midnight. No reservations. $. Most major credit cards. 5381 Westheimer. Phone 713-626-9664.

One's a Meal—If it's just plain old breakfast you crave at 3 am, this sparkling clean, cheery spot near downtown is a good choice. The classic short-order menu includes pecan waffles, burgers and breakfast 24 hours a day (closed only on Christmas Day). $. 5525 Memorial Dr. Phone 713-861-8300.

Spanish Flowers—A popular item at this eatery is the Spanish Flowers Breakfast: a pork chop, two eggs, breakfast potatoes, guacamole and beans. Other menu staples are fajitas, rotisserie chicken and enchiladas. Beer and liquor served only with food. Breakfast is served all day. Open 7 days a week, 24 hours a day, except between 10 pm Tuesday and 9 am Wednesday. $. 4701 N. Main (in the Heights). Phone 713-869-1706.

COFFEEHOUSES

Empire Cafe—We liked their Milky Way—an iced espresso drink served in a chocolate-rimmed glass with cream, hazelnut and caramel syrup. The Empire Cafe is one of many coffeehouses in Montrose, the city's artsy district southeast of downtown. Open weeknights 7:30-10 pm, Friday and Saturday until 11 pm. 1732 Westheimer at Elmen. Phone 713-528-5282.

DINNER THEATER

Art of Murder—A dining experience full of suspense. Murder mysteries presented Saturdays only, seating at 7:30 pm, show at 8 pm. At Renata's Restaurant, 2006 Lexington. North of the Southwest Freeway (Highway 59) and east of S. Shepherd. Phone 713-523-5967 for reservations.

Great Caruso—This dinner theater looks like a Victorian music hall, complete with singing waiters. The whole 1890s experience is great fun, the giant Baked Alaska especially so. Continental menu features veal and roast beef entrees. Shows Wednesday-Friday 7 pm, Saturday 5:15 pm and 8 pm, Sunday 6 pm. Reservations required. $$$. Most major credit cards. 10001 Westheimer. Phone 713-780-4900.

FRENCH

La Tour d'Argent—For more than a decade this northwest Houston restaurant has served flawless French cuisine in a log cabin—a confident, idiosyncratic mix that is typically Houstonian. Everything, especially the wine list, is the type of thing you'd find in a fine Continental hotel. The lamb is highly recommended. Monday-Friday 11:30 am-2 pm, Monday-Thursday 6-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 6-11 pm. Reservations necessary. Coat and tie required for dinner. $$$$. Most major credit cards. 2011 Ella Blvd. Phone 713-864-9864.

ITALIAN (INCLUDING PIZZERIAS)

Carmelo's—Sicilian dishes in a Sicilian atmosphere. Lunch Monday-Friday 11 am-2:30 pm, dinner nightly 5-10:30 pm. Reservations recommended. $$. Most major credit cards. 14795 Memorial. On the West Side. Phone 281-531-0696.

Damian's Cucina Italiana—A soothing and comfortable dining room, a huge menu and wonderful desserts. Lunch served Monday-Friday 11 am-2 pm, dinner Monday-Thursday 5:30-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 5:30-11:30 pm. Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards. 3011 Smith St. South of the downtown area. Phone 713-522-0439.

La Mora Cucina Toscana—The great seafood stew served up in this restaurant cannot be duplicated anywhere else in town. For lunch, savor the ribolita (white bean soup) in the cheery atmosphere of the atrium. Tuesday-Friday 11 am-2:30 pm, dinner Monday-Thursday 5:30-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 5-11 pm. Reservations recommended on weekends. $$. Most major credit cards. 912 Lovett, in Montrose. Phone 713-522-7412.

Michelangelo's—The pleasant dining room, built around a massive oak, is perhaps not the ritziest in town. However, for almost three decades this reasonably priced Italian eatery on Westheimer near downtown has been a quaint favorite. Beloved dishes include grilled salmon with artichoke, veal chops with peppercorn sauce, and sauteed redfish. Valet parking and fenced parking lot. Monday-Thursday 11 am-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 11 am-11 pm, Sunday 11 am-9 pm. Reservations recommended on weekends. $$. Most major credit cards. 307 Westheimer. Phone 713-524-7836.

LATE NIGHT

Andy's Home Cafe—A cheap and colorful diner that's a favorite hangout of musicians and artists. The food ranges from cheese enchiladas with rice and beans to bacon and eggs. Breakfast is served around the clock. Open 24 hours a day. No reservations. $. 1115 E. 11th St. In the Heights. Phone 713-861-9423.

MEXICAN

Ninfa's—We keep going back to Ninfa's for the incomparable tacos al carbon (marinated grilled beef skirt) and super-strong margaritas—"Ninfaritas." There are about 25 Ninfa's all over town. Downtown location open weekdays 11 am-10 pm, weekends 11 am-11 pm. Reservations not necessary. $. Major credit cards. 2704 Navigation. Phone 713-228-1175. Check phone book for other locations.

Pappasito's—Loud, always busy Pappasito's is a Houston favorite, especially with families. The portions are huge and the prices are right. Best bets: tacos al carbon and any of the enchiladas. All locations open Monday-Thursday 11 am-10 pm, Friday-Sunday 11 am-11 pm. No reservations. $. Major credit cards accepted. West Houston location at 10409 Interstate 10 W. Phone 713-468-1913. Check phone book for other locations.

MIDDLE EASTERN

Sammy's Lebanese Restaurant—Excellent Middle Eastern food. Everything is good, but we recommend the maza: You'll be brought a small sampling of appetizers, each on its own plate, then a few more, then a few more, then a few more.... For variety, volume and taste, this arrangement cannot be beat. Monday-Thursday 11 am-10:30 pm, Friday and Saturday 11 am-11 pm, Sunday noon-10 pm. Reservations required for five or more. $-$$. Most major credit cards. 5825 Richmond. Phone 713-780-0065.

SOUL FOOD

This Is It—The menu of soul-comforting food changes daily, but chitlins, pork chops, cabbage, yams and pinto beans are likely to find their way from the steam table to your plate. Open daily 11 am-8 pm. No reservations. $. Most major credit cards. 207 W. Gray, Houston. Phone 713-659-1608.

ADDITIONAL EXPERIENCES

Magnolia Bar & Grill—Louisiana cuisine is the highlight with dishes such as Opelousas baked duck, shrimp Creole, assorted gumbos, crab-stuffed snapper, big, juicy crawfish and peewee soft-shell crabs (available in season). Pasta dishes, steaks, salads and sandwiches also get a hearty nod from the kitchen. Take a seat outside in gentle weather. Sunday-Thursday 11 am-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 11 am-11 pm, Sunday buffet brunch 10:30 am-2 pm. Reservations necessary for parties of 6 or more. $$. Most major credit cards. 6000 Richmond. Phone 713-781-6207.

Ragin' Cajun Seafood—When in season, fresh boiled crawfish is served with potatoes and corn. The "Home Cooking" category includes hot boudin, gumbo, crawfish etouffee and red beans and rice served Opelousas style with sausage. You can also get a variety of sandwiches, ranging from oyster po'boys to "N'awlens"-style muffulettas. Monday-Thursday 11 am-10 pm, Friday and Saturday until 11 pm. No reservations. $-$$. Most major credit cards. 4302 Richmond. Phone 713-623-6321.

Tony Ruppe's—Chef Ruppe says his restaurant is the U.S. cultural melting pot expressed in food. He cooks Italian, liberally enhanced with Japanese, Thai and Mexican elements. Among the menu standouts are avocado fries, grilled lamb chops on mushroom-filled bread pudding in a red-wine sauce and fish on a fennel-and-apple salad. Intimate, upscale ambience. Lunch Monday-Friday 11 am-2 pm, dinner Monday-Thursday 5:30-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 5:30-11 pm. Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards. 3939 Montrose, Houston. Phone 713-852-0852.

Treebeard's—A downtown Houston landmark famous for its Cajun fare of red beans and rice, etouffee, gumbo and jambalaya. Daily specials such as fried chicken, meat loaf and baked catfish are popular. Lunch Monday-Friday 11 am-2 pm, dinner only at the Travis location on Friday 5-9 pm. Reservations taken for lunch, not necessary for dinner. $. Most major credit cards. 315 Travis. Phone 713-228-2622. Check phone book for other downtown locations.