Granted, it's easier to get a good steak in Denver than great seafood. But cuisines throughout the city run the gamut from delis and food carts downtown to the Vietnamese strip on South Federal. Mexican restaurants can be found in just about every neighborhood. Most establishments don't enforce a dress code or require reservations.

Particularly notable is the champagne brunch at the Brown Palace Hotel. For a bit more of an Old West feeling, try the Buckhorn Exchange, Buffalo Bill's favorite and now the oldest restaurant in town. Or dine at the Fort, which has a panoramic view of the city and claims to serve more buffalo than any other restaurant on Earth. (If buffalo isn't wild enough for you, try their rattlesnake.) Also exotic is the 1800s-style Japanese cuisine at Domo on Osage.

As an alternative to the ubiquitous Coors, you might sample the wares at one of the many brewpubs in LoDo. Wynkoop Brewing Co. is one of our favorites, and it serves food, too—everything from buffalo burgers to charbroiled elk.

Below is a sampling of restaurants in town. Expect to pay within these general guidelines, based on the cost of a dinner for one (excluding drinks, tax and tip): $ = less than US$10; $$ = US$10-$20; $$$ = US$21-$50; $$$$ = more than US$50.

FAVORITE RESTAURANTS

European Cafe—This upscale French restaurant in Denver's downtown stresses simple flavors, fresh ingredients and wild, state-of-the-art presentations. Lunch Monday-Friday 11 am-2 pm. Dinner Sunday and Monday 5-9 pm, Tuesday-Thursday 5-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 5-11 pm. $$$. Most major credit cards. 1040 15th St. (a block from the Denver Performing Arts complex), Denver. Phone 303-825-6555.

McCormick's Fish House & Bar—Denver's best source for seafood, with more than 30 daily specials and a wine list as long as your arm. Wood-paneled dining room, stained-glass windows. Lunch Monday-Friday 11 am-2 pm, dinner Sunday-Thursday 5-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 5-11 pm. Brunch Saturday 11 am-2pm, Sunday 10 am-2 pm. $$. Most major credit cards. 1659 Wazee (in the Oxford Hotel), Denver. Phone 303-825-1107.

Morton's of Chicago—Located in the heart of LoDo, Morton's serves the best steaks in town, as well as prime rib, lobster and swordfish. Monday-Saturday 5:30-11 pm. $$$. Most major credit cards. (but not Discover). 1710 Wynkoop, Denver. Phone 303-825-3353.

Palace Arms—This restaurant is an integral part of part of the century-old Brown Palace Hotel. The decor is early 1900s opulent, but the menu is refreshing and creative, complete with fusion cooking alongside Old World classics. The lamb dishes are particularly well prepared and presented. Lunch Monday-Friday 11 am-1:30 pm, dinner daily 6-9:30 pm. $$$$. 321 17th St., Denver. Phone 303-297-3111.

Papillon Cafe—French Continental cuisine, accented with Thai spices, is served in this cozy restaurant in the shopping district of Cherry Creek. The menu is eclectic, but everything we've tried has been superb, including the pastas and salads. Monday-Saturday 11 am-9 pm. $$. Most major credit cards. 250 Josephine St., Denver. Phone 303-333-7166.

LOCAL AND REGIONAL SPECIALTIES

Buckhorn Exchange—Venerable steakhouse-cum-museum-cum-saloon (since 1893). Somewhat kitschy Denveralia (lots of mounted animal heads). Here's a place where locals like to take out-of-towners to feast on buffalo, steaks and ribs. Lunch Monday-Friday 11:30 am-2 pm, dinner Monday-Thursday 5:30-9:30 pm, Friday 5-10 pm, Saturday 5-10:30 pm, Sunday 4-9 pm. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. 1000 Osage, corner of 10th (downtown), Denver. Phone 303-534-9505.

Denver Buffalo Company—Buffalo raised on a nearby ranch become the steaks, burgers and even hot dogs served in this establishment. The decor is Old West, naturally, and there's an outdoor garden and art gallery/trading post on the grounds. Lunch Monday-Saturday 11 am-2:30 pm, dinner Monday-Thursday 5-9 pm, Friday and Saturday 5-10 pm, Sunday 3:30-9 pm. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. 1109 Lincoln St. (on Capitol Hill), Denver. Phone 303-832-0880.

The Fort—Historic adobe structure from fur-trading days, located in the foothills (30 minutes from downtown), with a panoramic view east to Denver. Buffalo, elk, quail, "Rocky Mountain oysters" as well. Monday-Friday 5:30-10 pm, Saturday 5-10 pm, Sunday 5-9 pm. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Junction of Highway 285 (W. Hampden) and Colorado Highway 8, Denver. Phone 303-697-4771.

Rocky Mountain Diner—This restaurant is a Denver classic, with a neon-cowboy flare. The diner serves jazzed-up versions of such modern western favorites as roast duck enchiladas, buffalo meatloaf, chicken fried steak and venison chili. Monday-Saturday 11 am-11 pm. $$. Most major credit cards. 800 18th St., Denver. Phone 303-293-8383.

AMERICAN

My Brother's Bar—Great hamburgers, beer and wine in a dark, woody atmosphere with classical music. Also a serene outdoor garden in the summer. Monday-Saturday 11 am-2 am. $. Visa and MasterCard. In LoDo (Lower Downtown) at 2376 15th St., phone 303-455-9991.

Rain Forest Cafe—Dozens of robotic animals and a jungle of exotic plants make eating at the Rain Forest a virtual adventure. This is a popular retreat for shoppers at the Cherry Creek Mall. Moderately priced menu includes everything from tropical delights to grilled-cheese sandwiches. Monday-Friday 11 am-9 pm, Friday and Saturday 11 am-10 pm, Sunday 10:30 am-9 pm. $. West wing of Cherry Creek Mall, phone 303-355-8500.

ASIAN

China Jade—An excellent Chinese seafood/Cantonese restaurant best known for dim sum. Loud and busy. Daily 10 am-9:30 pm. $$. Most major credit cards. In the Far East Center at 375 S. Federal Blvd., phone 303-935-0033.

Domo—Seating is limited, so plan on arriving at this restaurant at least an hour before they open. Be assured that the authentic 19th-century Japanese atmosphere and country cuisine will be well worth the wait. Sit on tree stumps, eat off slate slab tables. Stroll through the traditional rock garden and 19th-century farm museum on the grounds. Thursday-Saturday 11 am-2 pm and 5-9 pm. $$. Most major credit cards. 1365 Osage (downtown), Denver. Phone 303-595-3666.

Mori Sushi Bar & Tokyo Cuisine—A little hard to find (it's in the Nisei American Legion Post near Coors Field), but worth the trouble. Outstanding Japanese specialties, casual atmosphere. Monday-Saturday 11:30 am-2:30 pm and 5-10 pm. Closed Sunday. $$. Visa and MasterCard only. 2019 Market St., phone 303-298-1864.

New Saigon Restaurant—The best Vietnamese egg rolls and soft-shell crab around. The decor is no-frills, but the food is consistently outstanding. Daily 11 am-9 pm. $. Most major credit cards (but not Discover). 630 S. Federal Blvd., phone 303-936-4954.

Sushi Den—Denver's best sushi—yellow tail, smoked salmon, tuna and more. Airy and well lit, this is a very hip place to see and be seen. Lunch Monday-Friday 11:30 am-2:30 pm, dinner Monday-Thursday 4:30-10:30 pm, Friday and Saturday 4:30 pm-midnight, Sunday 5-10:30 pm. $-$$. 1487 S. Pearl, phone 303-777-0826.

BREAKFAST AND BRUNCH

Pete's Kitchen—A short-order breakfast establishment in the heart of Capitol Hill with an eclectic (yuppies, students, bikers, gays) clientele. Open Sunday-Thursday 6 am-11 pm, Friday and Saturday around the clock. $. Most major credit cards. 1962 E. Colfax Ave., phone 303-321-3139.

FRENCH

Le Central—A wonderfully cozy bistro with a Left Bank feeling. Country French food (bouillabaisse, escargot, sauteed veal) and an affordable wine list. Lunch Monday-Friday 11:30 am-2 pm, Saturday and Sunday brunch 11 am-2 pm, dinner Monday-Saturday 5:30-10 pm, Sunday 5-9 pm. $$. Most major credit cards. 112 E. 8th Ave. (at Broadway and Speer), near Capitol Hill, phone 303-863-8094.

ITALIAN (INCLUDING PIZZERIAS)

Barolo Grill—Two miles/3 km east of Capitol Hill, this is a Northern Italian restaurant with an extensive wine list. Barolo is perfect for relaxing by the fireplace or for people watching. Tuesday-Saturday 5:30-10:30 pm. $$$. Most major credit cards. 3030 E. 6th Ave., phone 303-393-1040.

Josephina's Ristorante—Classic Italian offerings include pasta, chicken, veal and seafood. Great location right on the Larimer Square with outdoor seating in summer. Live music some nights. Lunch Monday-Saturday 11 am-4 pm, dinner Sunday-Thursday 4-10:30 pm (pizza till 11 pm), Friday and Saturday 4 pm-midnight (pizza till 1 am). $$. Most major credit cards. 1433 Larimer Square, phone 303-623-0166.

Palomino Euro Bistro—This retreat's marble floors, artistic decor and delightful Mediterranean-style dishes have made Palomino the gathering place for high-profile Coloradans. Try their spit-roasted garlic chicken, fresh fish or thin-crust, Roma-style pizza. $$-$$$. Lunch Monday-Saturday 11:15 am-5 pm, dinner Sunday-Thursday 5-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 5-11 pm (bar hours extended). $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. 1515 Arapaho (16th Street Mall and Arapaho), Denver. Phone 303-534-7800.

MEXICAN

El Taco de Mexico—Purveyor of authentic Mexican burritos, menudo and beans and rice in the heart of the Baker neighborhood. The atmosphere is lunch counter, and no alcohol is served, but the food is great and very reasonably priced. Sunday-Thursday 8 am-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 8 pm-midnight. $. No credit cards. 714 Santa Fe Dr., phone 303-623-3926.

STEAK HOUSES

Cadillac Ranch—Denver's young professionals love this nouveau-Western-themed restaurant on Larimer Square, which serves aged steaks and smoked prime rib as well as delectable desserts (such as apple caramel lasagna and Heath Bar crunch). Open Sunday-Thursday 11 am-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 11 am-11 pm. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. 1400 Larimer St., Denver. Phone 303-820-2288.

ADDITIONAL EXPERIENCES

Wynkoop Brewing Co.—Good people watching in this renovated downtown 1880s warehouse, known for attracting visiting authors and literary patrons with its poolroom and home-brewed beer. All sorts of favorites—salads, pastas, steaks. (The shepherd's pie is great, and the cheesy artichoke dip is a must-try.) Monday-Saturday 11 am-2 am, Sunday 10 am-midnight. $-$$. Most major credit cards. 1634 18th St. (at Wynkoop), phone 303-297-2700.